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Squid ink marbled bread with Richard Bertinet in Bath

October 15, 2014 6 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

The Royal Crescent, Bath, and pot of squid ink
Squid ink marbled loaf

In the basement room of his cooking school in Bath, Richard Bertinet flexes his large shoulders as he lifts up the dough with dusty hands that are like shovels. Flour is billowing everywhere and I hear the slap of the dough as it hits the counter. “frasage, decoupage, montage au bout, decoupage, soufflage, patonnage, couchage, etirage, buchage ” he says “these are the stages, this is how bread was always made.”
Bertinet making bread, Bath
Built like a labourer, Richard Bertinet has been baking bread for 25 years. He came to England at the age of 22, “to meet a girl”. He stayed two weeks, liked it, and ran out of money. It was time to get a job.  He got his first job from Robin Hutson, starting at the Chewton Glen hotel in the New Forest where he worked in the pastry section. There Richard perfected the techniques he’d learnt during his apprenticeship in France. By 2000 Bertinet had his own consultancy. Now he has a world famous cookery school and two branches of the bakery in Bath, and he’s on his fourth book.
When I dropped in, armed with a ramekin of squid ink, Richard had just come back from the Cake and Bake show. “Of course they aren’t interested in me, the audience wants to meet bakers from the TV.” he said with a laugh.
Is it not insane that cooking gameshow (Masterchef, Great British Bake Off) contestants are more popular, more sought after than serious baking teachers like Richard?
L'amateur du pain by Poilane, book

Bertinet talks as he folds the dough, pointing with a large floury index to a book,  Le guide de l’amateur de pain by Poilane, who died in 2002. “I was fortunate to know Poilane before he died.” murmured Richard. He gives me a running commentary on the history of bread making while he works… “From 1700 to late 1800 bread was made at home. The housewife would make it, using a housewives technique and it was taken to the bakers to be baked. In Marrakesh, it’s still done that way. As the population grew it became impractical to bake in bulk in this way, it became a man’s job.

“Bread used to be heavy, it was all about filling you up. The technique changed, more water, more air. With lighter bread, it became more digestible.”

At the Bertinet cookery school, people fly in from all over the world to learn his techniques. There is a Rodin-esque sculptural beauty to watching Richard work, and his French accent reminiscent of Depardieu is a poetic rap interspersing the rhythm of his labours…

“You have to talk to the dough. Breathe it. Live it. Todays flours are improving all the time, even from ten years ago. Now very strong flour has 14.5% protein.” He uses Shipton Mill, Waitrose, Matthews.

Richard Bertinet working with dough, Bath

I mention the trend towards sourdough..”If you don’t understand how to make dough properly, forget sourdough. It’s so frustrating… when you make pottery, do you make fine bone pottery on day one? No. Of course not.”

Is being French an advantage or a disadvantage do you think?

“An advantage in Britain. Nobody knows what class you are.” Which is an indictment of British society really, we are still ranked as soon as we open our mouths.

Richard Bertinet, baker in Bath
Richard takes my pot of squid ink and adds it to the dough, grimacing as he spreads it criss cross with a plastic spatula, into the folds. The next day I will turn up the Aga to full heat and bake this marbled dough on the floor of my roasting oven. I was originally inspired by the black baguette of Gontran Cherrier in Paris and so, chatting to the friendly restaurant manager at the Allium Brasserie, I asked where I could buy squid ink in Bath. I planned to do a bread experiment with Richard Bertinet the next day, I explained. I’ll ask my husband, she said, he works as a sous chef at the Royal Crescent hotel.
Bertinet, making squid ink bread, Bath
The next day I took a taxi (I had to take taxis everywhere as I was carrying a heavy two tiered wedding cake and it was raining. It was all very MacArthur Park) to the Royal Crescent which is, of course, one of the things you just have to see in Bath. It is a beautiful crescent of Georgian houses. The Royal Crescent hotel is bang in the middle of this majestic sweep, all stairwells, crystal chandeliers, formal gardens, marbled floors, and leather sofas. There were lots of young subservient footmen in uniform, a bit like Thomas the gay one in Downton (who I fancy despite the fact he is evil.) Anyway, her hubbie, the sous-chef, came up from a basement holding a small white china ramekin of black squid ink then I sped on my way to Richard Bertinet’s cookery school in another Georgian back alley.
Squid ink bread
I had stayed the night in the centre of Bath at the stylish Abbey Hotel and dined at the adjoining restaurant Allium Brasserie, headed by chef Chris Staines. At first glance I wasn’t inspired by the menu (which was rather meat dominated). But I was wrong. For once fine dining was sparkling with flavour when so often it is form over content. I particularly liked the truffle and jerusalem artichoke salad, the light fluffy gnocchi and the lychee panacotta with granita which, overtired from my day, I asked if I could be served in bed. Pudding in bed! What luxury! They didn’t demur. Why don’t hotel guests do this ALL the time?
Abbey Hotel, Bath

Allium Brasserie, Bath
Allium Brasserie, Bath

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Comments

  1. Helen

    October 15, 2014 at 3:56 pm

    I can't tell you the amount of times I've had pudding in bed! We are on the same page with that one.

    Also I knew there was a reason I shouldn't be making my own sourdough yet and this makes me feel a lot better.

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      October 15, 2014 at 4:09 pm

      I'd love to do his five day course. I've had periods when I've been regularly making sourdough but then I get busy and distracted and I seem to forget how to do it when I don't do it every day.
      Pudding in bed!

      Reply
  2. Shan

    October 16, 2014 at 9:48 am

    Damn this looks great! Do you have a recipe for the bread?

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      October 16, 2014 at 12:13 pm

      Shan, just use your normal bread recipe or, even better, get Richard's book Dough, which shows you his bread techniques?

      Reply
  3. Sarah Trivuncic

    October 20, 2014 at 3:27 pm

    That bread looks incredible. Only been to Bath once and it poured with rain all weekend. Must go back and hope to be luckier!

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      October 20, 2014 at 4:49 pm

      Hmm does it always rain in Bath?

      Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
On the heath on Sunday. Must. Walk. More. #coronal On the heath on Sunday. Must. Walk. More. #coronaloner
Tonight’s lockdown dinner with my bubble. Proper Tonight’s lockdown dinner with my bubble. Proper pesto alla genovese with trofie, small boiled salad potatoes, steamed green beans (good tip: steam the beans in a colander plopped on top of the potatoes or pasta), good quality pesto sauce ( mine from local microbakery @seansloaf ), good olive oil (@pomoragoodfood), torn fresh basil, a few pine nuts. This turns this student dish into a balanced meal of carbs, veg and a little protein.  It’s cold outside, I’ve lit the fire. Covid rages in Kilburn high road in north west london. The rate is 1 in 30 london wide but I feel it’s higher in this poor inner london area. We have a high BAME population who are particularly vulnerable. It’s a little bit anarchic on my high street: cars perched on kerbs waiting for hijabi women, braving pound shops and Aldi . We are all covered up now. In winter masks keep your face warm, but you have a choice between safety and being able to see. I’ve not managed to prevent the inevitable steaming up of my glasses when wearing a mask. Nothing works.  #january #londonwinter #pestopasta #pestoallagenovese #vegetarian #pasta #trofie #supperclub #covid_19 #lockdownlife #lockdown3 #bubblegang
Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Mi Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Minus Crown and king as I cannot find either. This one is made with Tonka bean. Plus homemade puff pastry (well worth the effort). According to ike delorenzo at The Atlantic:  The tonka bean, a flat, wrinkled legume from South America with an outsize flavor that the US government has declared illegal. Nonetheless, it proliferates on elite American menus. The tiniest shavings erupt in a Broceliande of transporting, mystical aromas.
The taste of the tonka bean is linked strongly to its scent. "Scents," I should say, as the tonka bean has many at once. I register the aromas of vanilla, cherry, almond, and something spicy—a bit like cinnamon. When served cold—say, in tonka bean ice cream—the taste is like a vanilla caramel with dark honey. When warm, perhaps shaved over scallops, it moves toward spiced vanilla. Additionally, the aroma of the tonka bean shavings (it's almost always shaved) is so affecting that it seems like an actual taste in the way that opium, which has no taste in the traditional sense, "tastes" like its rich, flowery smoke.  Here is the recipe: 

Tonka bean galette des rois

Serves 8
Ingredients
* 140 g caster sugar
* 125 g salted butter, softened
* 100 g ground almonds
* 2 eggs, medium
* 1 tonka bean, grated
* 2 packs ready made butter puff pastry on a roll
* 1 yolk for brushing the pastry
Instructions
* Preheat your oven to 200c.

* Blend the butter with the sugar then add the almonds. Make sure it’s well mixed. Add in the 2 eggs one at a time, then add the tonka bean.

* If using a block: divide the puff pastry into two and roll out to 5mm thick. 
* Make two circles about 15 cm’s each in diameter. Lay one circle on a silicone mat/parchment paper on a baking tray and fill with the almond cream leaving a 3 cm border around the edge. 
* Paint the border with the egg yolk. Then lay the other circle on top, sealing the edges with a fork. 
* You could then carve designs into the top. Make a little slit in the middle to let steam escape then brush the top with the egg yolk
Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. T Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. This is a vegan version. ***

Ingredients:
- 400 g box of soft tofu not silken
- 5 soaked dried shiitake mushrooms, diced, keep water
- 1 red bell pepper, finely sliced
- 400 g fresh shiitake mushroom, sliced thinly
- 400 ml vegetable stock
- 1 thumb fresh ginger, minced
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 4 tbsps groundnut or vegetable oil
- 3 tbsp fermented bean paste
- 1 or 2 small red chillies, minced or a spoonful of Chinese chilli paste
- 1 tsp heaped sichuan peppercorns, finely ground
- 2 tbsps soy or tamari sauce
- 2 tbsp cornflour in 3 tbsps water, mixed into a slurry
- 4 spring onions, finely sliced
- large pinch fresh coriander leaves

Prepare the tofu by cutting it into one inch cubes and soaking it in hot but not boiling salted water. Drain after 15 minutes.
Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms, covering them in boiling water. Leave until soft, then dice the mushrooms. Retain the mushroom soaking water and add to the vegetable stock water.
Prepare the other ingredients so they are ready to stir-fry: red bell pepper, fresh mushrooms, ginger, garlic.

Using a wok or deep frying pan, add the oil and heat to frying temperature. Add the bell peppers,fry for a couple of minutes, then add fermented bean paste, chilli paste or chillies, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sichuan pepper.
Add the mushroom/vegetable broth and simmer on high for a couple of minutes.
Carefully add the cubes of tofu, taking care not to break them too much.
Add the cornflour slurry, stirring for a couple of minutes.
Serve with rice or noodles, garnishing with spring onions or chives and or coriander leaves.  #veganuary #mapotofu #sichuanfood #tofu  #shitakemushrooms #supperclub #londonchef #msmarmitelover #ham&highcolumn #eatplants #lockdown3 #selfisolation #coronaloner #cooking #recipe #cookingfromscratch
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Another thing the Japanese are brilliant at is san Another thing the Japanese are brilliant at is sandwiches. They use the softest, whitest, fluffiest bread. Their mayonnaise kewpie is gorgeous I don’t know why. Perhaps someone here can explain? Here I’ve used sourdough as it’s what I have; kosho which is a Yuzu citrus and green chilli condiment and the aforesaid kewpie Mayo to make an egg 🥚 sandwich.  I’m not a big egg fan but I suddenly had the urge. Also I’ve noticed when I eat eggs it satiates my hunger for hours. All that protein.  #sandwich #sandwiches #japanesesandwich #kewpiemayo #kosho #eggsandwich #sourdough #supperclub #cookingforone #solo #londonlife #lockdownlondon #recipe #snack #sundaysnack #sando
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Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holdi Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holding on...
#happynewyear #happynewyear2021 #supperclub #hootenanny
Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg includi Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg including mashed swede with cheese and butter. I put pomegranate seeds with my sprouts, and cooked my carrots in marmalade ( worked v well), the mushroom wreath fell apart as I was transferring it to a tray 😤, roast potatoes and parsnips, then a cheese spread with fruit nuts, quince cheese (homemade), Chocs @lindtuk 😍 @guylian_uk @disaronno_official @baileysofficial @taylorsportwine and Brazil nuts. Plus a pavlova wreath ready to be topped with whipped cream and persimmons. 
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