• Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Snapchat
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

MsMarmiteLover

  • Food
    • Recipes
    • Vegetarian
    • Vegan
  • Travel
    • France
    • Italy
    • Spain
    • UK
  • Wine
  • Gardens
  • Supperclubs/Events
  • About
    • Published Articles
    • Books
  • Shop
    • Cart

Suffolk food and drink: Hillfarm rapeseed oil, Aspall cider and Aldeburgh food festival

October 1, 2014 15 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

This blog was called The English Can Cook. The reason for this title was because, during the seven years I lived in France, many patronising and denigrating comments were made about British food. I don’t write much about British food, partly because I don’t cook or eat meat and many dishes contain meat. (But I think that we are world beaters when it comes to dessert or puddings.) But the reason the French are famous for their sauces is because they needed to hide the poor quality of their produce. British food may be plain in comparison but this is due in part to the high standards of our produce, we never needed to disguise it!
This last weekend I visited the county of Suffolk, a couple of hours away by train from London. I went to the Aldeburgh food festival, to Hillfarm and to Aspall, the ‘cyder’, apple juice and vinegar producers.

Aldeburgh Food Festival:

 Clockwise from top left: Valentine Warner with Diana Henry; Mr Bees Suffolk honey; hedgerow cordial bar; Edible hedging; VW icecream van; lady enjoying the countryside; microbrewery; Hundred River farm Suffolk hand-made butter; a view of the scene (centre).

Clockwise from top left: raw milk from Fen Farm Dairy; pickled egg competition; Pump Street Bakery van; the guys that ran Naturorange selling candied orange (centre); Hodmedods roasted peas which were delicious; one of the Hodmedods creators; Hodmedods range, I like their packaging; Saffron flour made from Norfolk saffron, I bought this.

Hillfarm oils



“We need to challenge the olive”, said farmer Sam Fair of Hillfarm Oils. He grows, cold-presses, bottles and sells rapeseed oil. Rapeseed oil has a fairly neutral taste and contains eleven times more Omega 3 than olive oil. The high amount of vitamin E enables the absorption of the Omega 3, but vitamin E degrades in sunlight, which is why Hillfarm rapeseed oil is in a dark glass bottle. Although the latest word on saturated fats is that they are not all bad – for instance, coconut oil is very high in saturated fats but the good kind – rapeseed oil is lower in saturated fats than olive oil. Rapeseed oil also has a higher burn point than olive oil, it doesn’t smoke when you use it for roasting for instance. As it is thinner than olive oil, less viscous, when frying, it makes vegetables crispier quicker.
Rapeseed oil is a good neutral oil (although it is a brassica, so some people may detect a mustardy taste) to use in cooking, and importantly it is a British product. Sam Fairs gets frustrated with the amount of money that the European Union spends on promoting olive oil, about 15 million pounds a year. Some olive oil is quite poor quality, so it’s worth expanding one’s repertoire of oils.

Rapeseed oil is a British cooking oil.
Olive oil comes from mainland Europe and can be overused today. Rapeseed oil is our local oil. Every part of the rapeseed plant can be used: the leaves for greens and the seeds for the oil. In culinary terms, it is particularly good for stir frying and baking. I use it to make vegannaise.

Below: we did a comparative oil tasting: vegetable oils, palm oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil both cold-pressed and cheapo versions that are adulterated and called rapeseed oil. The big surprise was the Jamie Oliver ‘light’ olive oil, which was tasteless.

I’ve heard rapeseed crops are a bad thing?

The growing of rapeseed, known as canola in the United States, has been demonised for causing allergies and is a crop that needs the use of pesticides such as neonicotinoids, which has led to a drop in the bee population. (From December this year the EU will ban this pesticide.) More pesticides of this nature are required after a hot summer such as this year. Here it is grown in heavy Suffolk clay, which retains moisture.

It’s a tough life being a farmer

Being a farmer is a risky business: it’s expensive, a combine harvester costs 300,000 pounds. This machine enables the farmers to plough and thresh 130 acres of rapeseed a day. (An acre is the amount the average horseman can plough in a day.)
Sam is concerned about the lack of young farmers coming into the business, only 3% of farmers are under 45. “You need a lot of money to start up”. There were County Council Farms for young farmers leaving agricultural college but these are being closed down or sold off.
When the weather is good, the combine harvester works late into the night and they work 7 days a week in the season. “I don’t want it to stop”, says Sam. “If the driver needs a break, I’ll climb in and take over”.
I tried the seat in the enormous machine, it is very comfortable and springy. “You need that, they spend hours in that seat”, explained Sam. Normally the cab is littered with cans of red bull “to stay awake”, says Sam’s wife, Clare. The combine harvester is like a lawn mower, if it’s damp it won’t cut the rapeseed so any chance they get, when the rapeseed is ready, they are in the fields to gather the crop. Nature waits for no one. This year Sam will make a loss, he took a chance and hoped that the price of his crop would go up, it didn’t, losing a third of its value. In terms of commodity prices, it is worth £100 a ton, but it costs £130 a ton to grow it.
The great thing about starting a business like this is that Clare Fairs gets to join in the business, developing recipes and doing demonstrations. “I get to see more of Sam”, she says.

The brothers, Barry and Henry Chevallier Guild, who run Aspall, standing outside the manor.
English apple juice, tart but sweet.

Aspall History

Cider or Cyder, as an ancestor, Clement Chevallier, in 1729, called it, used to be so celebrated in Europe that it was regarded as better than wine. We seem to have lost the habit of drinking cider. I visited the Aspall manor in Sussex, the glorious seat of this family, the Chevalliers, who can trace their ancestors back to the 15th century. They count Lord Kitchener amongst their forebears. Brothers Barry and Henry Chevallier Guild invited me into their beautifully appointed living room where we looked at slides and videos of Aspall history. It was a bit like being shown the family photo album and old home movies, but this time of a particularly interesting and illustrious family. I watched sweet black and white footage of Henry and Barry as blond headed children in shorts, picking apples; their feminist grandmother Perronelle, determined to make a success of the business, one of the first women to attend agricultural college and a founder member of the Soil Association; the creator of their cyders, Harry Sparrow, after whom of their cyders is named, recounting the tragic years of world war one, where he served as a malnourished soldier.

British Cyder

Aspall are reviving the art of cider, making a range of ciders in different styles, from effervescent to flat, from sweet to dry, and a return to an original type of still cider, sold in English taverns of old, ‘cyderkyn’. At the moment the market is being flooded with cheap Polish apples, as they can no longer sell them to Putin’s Russia. Aspall only use British apples, using those that are not deemed good enough to sell in supermarkets because they are “too green, too red, too big, too small, not the right shape”.

British vinegar

They also make vinegars ranging from apple cyder to an apple balsamic as well as the classic red, white, malt and balsamic vinegars. I use their cyder vinegars to make pickled apple relish, for instance. I talked to Henry about creating a British verjuice, something I regularly use in cooking.

I went with a large party of bloggers on this trip: virtually everyone fancied the whiskered and handsome Henry Chevallier Guild while making noises about ‘always having wanted a man with a moat’. It was nice to hang out with these ladies; the breadth of knowledge about food amongst food bloggers is equal to that of any food writer.

Recent posts

Competition to win a Master series Microplane gift set

September 29, 2023

Dutch Baby apple and cheese pancake

September 17, 2023

La bomba paella rice

August 25, 2023

Previous Post: « Our food at the British Street Food awards in Leeds
Next Post: How to make a wedding cake »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Zia Mays

    October 1, 2014 at 1:45 pm

    I really like rapeseed oil (I've just checked and it is indeed Hillfarm's oil in the cupboard), especially for salad dressings, but shallow frying as well.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      October 1, 2014 at 7:54 pm

      Yes much as I love olive oil, sometimes you don't want that flavour.

      Reply
  2. Cate Lawrence

    October 1, 2014 at 5:25 pm

    i bought rapeseed oil here in Germany the other day ( I didn't realise it is the same as what we call Canola in Australia). It's half the price of olive oil 🙂

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      October 1, 2014 at 7:53 pm

      Canola is the Australian name as well? It is much cheaper that's true.

      Reply
    • Wilhelm Link

      October 20, 2014 at 5:39 am

      Be careful what you buy though: Hillfarm's (and others like them) rapeseed oil is cold-pressed, which is a low-yield very simply extraction method it retains all of its inherent flavour, colour and "goodness". As a result of this small-scale and low-yield extraction method, cold-pressed rapeseed oil usually retails at a similar price point to that of cold-pressed olive oils (around £5 for 500ml in the UK). A lot of the rapeseed and canola oil that is commonly found on supermarket shelves is, however, a completely different kettle of fish: It undergoes a so-called RBD (refined, bleached and deodorised) process which maximises the oil yield from each seed and results in a much blander, paler and nutritionally inferior type of oil, which, as it has been produced on an industrial scale, benefits from enormous economies of scale which result in it being one of the cheapest vegetable oils around for consumers. The two oils, "cold-pressed" and "RBD" are therefore very different!

      Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      October 20, 2014 at 9:25 am

      Thanks Wilhelm, very true. Don't buy the cheap shit people!

      Reply
  3. Aj

    October 1, 2014 at 6:25 pm

    Another Great Blog K. Very interested in the rapeseed oil, got a bottle in just recently and it's going well.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      October 1, 2014 at 7:54 pm

      thank you Aj. I do like to vary my oils. For instance in carrot salad, I used to buy an oil high in carotene, it was orange, like palm oil. They don't seem to sell it anymore.

      Reply
  4. Jill Day

    October 3, 2014 at 9:41 pm

    Thanks for the timely reminder about alternatives to olive oil and balsamic. Off to seek out cold pressed rapeseed oil and apple balsamic. I wonder if they sell it in Bermuda? (Natal plums are ripening. Hope to follow your SA suggestions soon.)

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      October 5, 2014 at 7:57 pm

      They probably sell apple cider vinegar but apple balsamic is v unusual Jill

      Reply
  5. Urvashi

    October 11, 2014 at 5:11 pm

    It was indeed a lovely weekend of tastings and learnings. I felt privileged to be part of the group and get an insider peek into both companies. Love British family businesses. I too bought the Norfolk Saffron Flour and used it last weekend in a saffron and pistachio cake. Was awesome. Well worth the £5 pricetag

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      October 11, 2014 at 8:50 pm

      I'm still trying to decide what to make with mine. But saffron and pistachio sounds gorgeous!

      Reply
  6. May EatCookExplore

    November 22, 2014 at 2:00 pm

    That was a very educational trip and am so impressed with the range of passionate food producers in Suffolk. Lots of inspiring products to test now.

    Reply
  7. theundergroundrestaurant

    November 22, 2014 at 2:08 pm

    Thanks for commenting May. I found the trip a bit rushed. To do the cider/vinegar and the oil on the same day meant that my concentration started to drift in the afternoon…

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Black Bean and Butternut Squash Tacos with Hillfarm Oil Salad Dressing - The Botanical Kitchen says:
    August 12, 2020 at 7:58 pm

    […] Suffolk food and drink: Hillfarm rapeseed oil, Aspall cider and Aldeburgh food festival (msmarmitelover.com) […]

    Reply

Leave a Reply to Cate Lawrence Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Primary Sidebar

MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

Subscribe to my mailing list

msmarmitelover

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Apple rose blossom tarts with rose jam. Rose Appl Apple rose blossom tarts with rose jam.  Rose Apple Blossom Tarts

Serves 8

Equipment: 
Microwave
Cupcake or muffin tin

I use a red-skinned apple to make these, to get a hint of blush at the edges of the ‘petals’.

Ingredients:
4 Pink Lady or Royal Gala apples, cored, cut into quarters, sliced thinly into half moons
1 lemon, squeezed
1 pack all butter readymade puff pastry 320g, on a roll, cut into 8 strips about 6 cms long
100g of melted butter
1/2 jar of rose jam
1 or 2 tbsp cinnamon or cardamom, ground 
Pinch maldon salt
2 or 3 tbsp icing sugar

Instructions

Prepare a bowl of acidulated water (cold water with lemon juice) to prevent browning.
Core the apples, and cut them in quarters. Slice thinly into half-moons (a mandolin is useful for this). 
Put them into a large bowl of cold water with the lemon.
Microwave the bowl of sliced apples for 5 minutes until soft enough to bend slightly but not cook them.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
Roll out the puff pastry. Divide into 8 sections by cutting the roll into quarters then halving each quarter. You will end up with 8 approximately 6cm strips.
Brush the strip with melted butter then paint with a layer of rose jam. You can then dust with either ground cinnamon or cardamom.
Lay the apple slices along the top of the pastry strip, overlapping them. Fold up the bottom half of the pastry strip to make an pleat with the skin side of the apple half moon poking over the top.
Roll up the folded pastry strips until they look like a rose made of apple at the top
Place ‘rose’ side up, in a buttered cupcake tin
Repeat until all are done and bake for 20 -30 minutes.
Using a tea strainer or small sieve, sprinkle with icing sugar.
A lovely vegetarian recipe from @lulugargari - a g A lovely vegetarian recipe from @lulugargari - a green bean and basil pesto with Italian lemon 🍋 pasta. Fresh, light. This was at an Italian cooking class/demo @eatalylondon hosted by @ilovefruitandvegfromeuropecouk @flickflock #london#italy🇮🇹
Digital chefs came from Italy yesterday to teach h Digital chefs came from Italy yesterday to teach how to make pumpkin, chilli, taleggio fondue Paccheri pasta- warming and filling for autumn days. Thanks to @ilovefruitandvegfromeuropecouk @flickflock @eatalylondon @danielerossichef @lulugargari for the event. We then got to go shopping in Italy with a £50 voucher. I spent it on mostardi di frutta, burratta, carciofi, cheeses,. My sis in law @bro0907 spent it on two bottles of wine. 😂 #italianfood #italianingredients #cookingclass #campaniafood
Inspired by @kathybrownstev’s book on edible flo Inspired by @kathybrownstev’s book on edible flowers I did an edible flower supper club featured in my first book ‘supper club’ This weekend I briefly visited her garden. Decades of work and creativity went into creating this English oasis. It’s an hour and a half out of london near Bedford. It closes at the end of September: open Tuesdays and this coming weekend. It was odd to go on holiday so near to where I live! We had a beautiful Airbnb in Pavenham. The countryside starts nearer to home than I thought. #uk #england #gardens
Visited The speciality fine food fair today for th Visited The speciality fine food fair today for the first time. So many tastings! Great to see new products. Particularly impressed by @lamiriharissa which is smoked and delicious run by Jo Lamiri’s children and @quirkymonkeycoffee which is mushroom infused coffee and hot chocolate run by an autistic guy Darwin setting up his own business. Good for him. #foodexplorer
Bones and all. Just made tomato sauce pasta from m Bones and all. Just made tomato sauce pasta from my home made sun dried tomato concentrate made @tenutacammarana in Sicily last summer. It’s the taste of sunshine. Plus my English home-grown tomatoes. #Tomatoes 🍅 🍅 🍅 #dinner #babyledweaning
I’ve made a South African/ Botswana dish that is I’ve made a South African/ Botswana dish that is creamy samp with chakalaka. Samp is corn like hominy or pozole a native Indian or Mexican food. It’s strange that it’s a staple food in Africa. Corn is a new world food I think. Samp itself is quite bland, often eaten with beans. Chakalaka is delicious with peppers, Piri piri seasoning, ginger garlic onions tomatoes and carrots and baked beans.
Samp from Botswana. It’s husked corn and makes a Samp from Botswana. It’s husked corn and makes a porridge like carb- creamy samp. I’m rinsing, soaking and cooking today and will combine it with chakalaka tomorrow. #southafrica #botswana #samp #newworldoldworld
Did my living room floor with @woca_denmark_uk_ire Did my living room floor with @woca_denmark_uk_ireland natural floor soap yesterday which smells lovely. But high traffic areas need rewarding. This is a Scandinavian technique- regularly waxing pale wood floors. I did this floor during the first year of lockdown. I prefer waxed floors to varnished. #interiors #woodfloors
Alliums in a purple pot. Note to self: plant more Alliums in a purple pot. Note to self: plant more bobble headed alliums. Love the colour and shape. This is in a neighbours garden who I met on Saturday while working in the front garden. Traditionally the British have front gardens but now they are turned into driveways and building are developed into flats. Only very rich people in london can afford houses. But the front is very important for the community- it’s how you meet your neighbours. On Saturday I visited 2 different sets of neighbours gardens- the first time since I moved to this street 23 years ago. Our front garden is communal and has been an unloved space- I’m trying to change that. Tonight I cleaned all the wheely bins. A yucky job but otherwise they smell so bad in summer. I was thinking about all the terrible dirty jobs that someone has to do- clearing up after a road accident, or sorting out sewers, or unblocking toilets. The stuff that nobody likes to think about. #frontgardens #neighbours #londoners
What I’ve been up to: awning from @victorianawni What I’ve been up to: awning from @victorianawnings which has transformed our al fresco eating possibilities. Also been working on the front garden of our building using talented work men I found on fb marketplace: railings by @lincsecproducts ( the gates were bought by me some years ago and I’ve scraped off the rust and repainted), the arch, which took me 3 years to find on fb marketplace for the right price and size. The wisteria which will grow over the arch planted by @christina_erskine ( I’ve always wanted a wisteria and they apparently add to the value of your house), the Swiss style bike/buggy shed. Needs to be painted dark green to match the walls. My friend Jim repaired the walls, the coping, and laid the  concrete plinth. Now need to find coping for the pillars or perhaps urns for more plants. 47cm2. #interiors #exteriordesign #gates #railings #bikeshed #awning #design
Made a vegetarian paella with La bomba rice from @ Made a vegetarian paella with La bomba rice from @brindisaspanishfoods I used red and green peppers, saffron, sherry, Nyora peppers, smoked almonds and green olives #vegetarian #vegetariansummer #paella
Quick snap of my bedroom chimney wall with the @sa Quick snap of my bedroom chimney wall with the @sanderson1860 wallpaper - finally done. Never wallpapered before. By the way I’m totally open to interiors collaborations email me: marmitelover@mac.com #interiordesign #wallpaper #london
Cooking powders or flavour bombs: two of my favour Cooking powders or flavour bombs: two of my favourite are ‘chaat’ which you can buy in Indian shops- here I’ve sprinkled yoghurt with lime/achaar chaat and decorated with day lily petals. My other favourite culinary powder is @tajinuk which gives instant mexicanness to any dish. #tajin #chaat
Me and my beautiful granddaughter Ophelia. I look Me and my beautiful granddaughter Ophelia. I look a mess ( really need to dye hair but it’s sooo expensive) but I don’t care because my heart just bursts when I cuddle this little being who has been in my life for 8 months. Babies are a blessing. #granfluencer pic: @clairebelljar
Made arepas last week with masarepa, a precooked m Made arepas last week with masarepa, a precooked maize meal, topped with Wensleydale cheese which isn’t too dissimilar to a fresh Latin American cheese. I also added fresh corn kernels for texture. #colombia #venezuela #arepas #vegetarian
Quinoa salad cooked in a mushroom stock cube solut Quinoa salad cooked in a mushroom stock cube solution with hazelnuts & preserved lemons, home grown curly parsley. I’m not cooking most of my grains in a rice steamer. Turn out fluffy & perfect every time. #quinoa #grainbowl #summerfood
I took this photo of Jane Birkin when she performe I took this photo of Jane Birkin when she performed at @theroundhouse in 2008. Shabby chic with a sweet voice. #RIP #janebirkin #concert #london #rockphotographer
Oxford food symposium 2023 lots of talks, meals an Oxford food symposium 2023 lots of talks, meals and drinks
‘Soft serve’ ice cream. Easy! Add condensed mi ‘Soft serve’ ice cream. Easy! Add condensed milk & vanilla to whipped cream and freeze! Pipe out. Buy a flake if you want a 99. #nochurnicecream #99 #icecream #summer23
Load More... Follow on Instagram

Archives

Copyright © 2023 msmarmitelover