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Skiing in the Savoie, France and a recipe for cardoon gratin

January 9, 2016 3 Comments Filed Under: Christmas, Food, Gardens, Recipes, Uncategorized

samoens, Alps, France
Villa Rose hotel, samoens, Alps, France
samoens, Alps, France
villa rose hotel decor, samoens, Alps, France
samoens, Alps, France

This Christmas, I visited the small alpine village of Samoëns, near to the Grand Massif web of ski runs. French ski resorts tend to be more modern than Austrian or Swiss resorts and as a result are often somewhat ugly, blighted with high rise flats catering for the French for whom skiing is a national sport, almost a right. Most French school children go skiing in the winter holidays, if not with their parents then with the school.
Samoëns, by contrast, is small and romantically pretty; a jigsaw of low rise stone and wood buildings with chalet style balconies. This architecture is typical of the Savoy region, which is almost entirely mountainous, stretching south of Geneva down to Nice. Savoyard culture and food historically crosses national boundaries, girdling the alpine regions of France, Italy and Switzerland.

raclette, samoens, Alps, France
cheese fondue, samoens, Alps, France
tartiflette

Savoyard cuisine is perfect for the climate: hearty dishes such as Raclette, Tartiflette, Fondue Savoyarde; cheeses like Beaufort, Tomme, Gruyere, Reblochon; cured meat and sausages referred to as ‘Diot’, while polenta tended to be more popular than potatoes. For my tartiflette recipe go to my monthly column at the Ham & High. 

villa rose decor, samoens, Alps, France
villa rose decor, samoens, Alps, France

I stayed at a boutique hotel Villa Rose housed in a Belle Epoque circa 1900s villa, which only opened in May 2015. This is the dream project of Texan Kimberly Williamson, who supervised every aspect of the decoration using only local artisans, materials and products. It’s a far cry from the rustic chalets of the alps, all pine and checkered tablecloths; here the style is more elegant and contemporary with silvered bedheads, upcycled antiques, beautifully appointed bathrooms with claw foot bathtubs, flocked wallpaper, glinting chandeliers, whimsical paintings of cows and stags on doors, and a strict palette of pink, silver and black except for the kitchen where apple green is sported.

window seat, villa rose hotel, samoens, Alps, France

Downstairs has a different style: a comfortable living area with coloured stained wooden floors by local artist Gilles Giacomotti, and an enclosed veranda with a pink velvet sofa and cosy nook window seats overlooking the ski lifts and mountains.

What to do at a skiing resort when you can’t ski

The ski season starts on December 19th when the lifts open, but like everywhere in Europe, a warm winter has meant that snow was sparse. (I believe January has now had fresh snow so conditions are better.) Samoëns is also a summer resort. 

1) Ice Skating. There is usually a rink at every ski resort and Samoëns is no exception. You can also go tobogganing on a artificial slope in the village. At larger resorts you will find swimming pools, saunas and jacuzzis, which is a boon for après-ski. Villa Rose also has an on-call masseuse. 

2) Christmas activities: the main square of the village has concerts, games and other ‘animations’ during Christmas time: a jolly girl group harmonising in Santa outfits and old-fashioned wooden games for the public to play. The village is lit up with lights and Christmas music is piped through the pedestrian streets, it’s all charmingly Disney-like. (I love Disney.)

2) Shopping. Samoens has many small boutique shops selling handicrafts and local products. I particularly liked the interiors and kitchenware shop, the quincaillerie, where I bought a wooden radiator brush. (Longtime readers will know that I do like a well crafted brush).

3) Walking. You can walk in the hills, alongside the bubbling river or visit the local Botanical Gardens, which contains thousands of alpine plants. If you walk enough you will deserve to…

4) Eating. Even if you don’t do any exercise you will have a huge appetite and feel tired, especially if you come from a smoggy city like London where the merest whiff of fresh air is a jolt to an urbanite system.
Samoëns has some good local food shops, a boulangerie, places to buy cheese and cured meats, if you don’t have a car. 
There are nice places to eat (the raclette at Gourmandises de Marie was good, as was the friendly lunch at Les Tartines de Martine) but French service is a problem, I don’t know why. You expect rudeness in Paris but not in a small village. I had a terrible experience in one restaurant called La Tornalta, where the waitress said she wanted to hit me because I asked for a green salad with a dressing not out of a bottle.
Tourists should specify the size of the drink they are ordering as apparently it is a common trick to give the largest version and charge accordingly. This happened to me at a bar in the village, I ordered Gentian, an alpine bitter herbal liqueur made from the gentian root. It’s usually around three euros, but the grumpy bartender poured me out a huge glass (too much to drink) at six euros. 

gentian root, samoens, Alps, France

Perhaps this is why Villa Rose only employs Anglophone staff all of whom are delightful and bend over backwards to give good service. Selina the manageress will sort out ski gear for you and give you a lift to the cable car in Samoens, however there is also a shuttle. Talking to the staff at Villa Rose, many of whom lived in the village and had children in the local schools, they all raved about living there, the sense of community, the special vibe of the village. 

cake at villa rose, samoens, Alps, France

Villa Rose has a private chef, Daniel Bearcroft, who can prepare evening meals depending on the package you choose. He provides a cooked breakfast and charmingly, a cake every day for tea time. Find him @alpinechef on instagram for a look at his dishes.

alpine cheese, samoens, Alps, France
alpine cheese, samoens market, Alps, France
diot charcuterie, samoens market, Alps, France
samoens market, Alps, France

5) Going to the market, which is open on Wednesday mornings in Samoëns. The market sells great food, handicrafts, local products, alpine themed oil cloths and cheap clothes.
I was in my element here but to know which stalls to buy from, look at those that have queues of locals. One cheese stall tried to charge me 50 euros (£40 or over $50) for a Brillat Savarin cheese (500g) that would normally cost a maximum of 10 euros, so shop wisely.
I lined up at a brilliant stall selling raclette from the back of a farmer’s van and bought a quarter wheel for 10 euros. Bargain!

cardoons, samoens market, Alps, France
cardoon gratin
cardoon gratin

If you are self-catering in the winter, do look out for cardoons (cardons), which look like a spiky celery. They aren’t cheap but are a local delicacy: ‘l’épineux de Plainpalais’ in the Christmas season, tasting a bit like artichokes, for they belong to the same family of thistles. I considered squeezing an entire cactusy cardoon in my suitcase along with my ski boots but ended up buying them ready prepared, that is, freshly cut into sections. Cardoons are little known in the UK, which is a pity – they are delicious. Here is a typical recipe:

Cardoon Gratin Recipe

Serves 4 to 6

1-2 kilos of cardoons, stringy bits stripped off, cut into pieces 3 inches(5-7 cms)long.
Juice of half a lemon
1 tsp of salt

For the sauce:
20g of butter
250ml of double cream
500ml of cardoon cooking water or vegetable stock
A little nutmeg or mace
Salt and Pepper

To top:
300g of cheese, grated (use an alpine cheese such as Comté, Beaufort or Gruyere or, failing that, Cheddar)

If you are lucky enough to get a fresh cardoon plant, treat it a bit like rhubarb, removing the stringy bits, chopping it up then place it covered with water in a large saucepan acidulated with half a squeezed lemon and a teaspoon of salt. This prevents it from going brown. Once prepped, bring to the boil and simmer on a medium to low heat until the cardoon is soft enough to prick with a fork easily, about an hour. Cardoons taste rather bitter until they are cooked. 
Drain but reserve the cardoon water. Preheat the oven to 180ºc. Butter a baking dish 20cm x 10cm approximately.
In the meantime, make the sauce.
In a medium sized saucepan on a low heat, melt the butter. Immediately stir in the cream. You can then add the cardoon water or vegetable stock or a mix of both. Keep stirring the sauce for about ten minutes until it thickens, then add the nutmeg or mace. Taste then season with salt and pepper.
Lay the cardoons in the baking dish in a single layer then cover with the bechamel sauce.
Add the grated cheese (if you prefer it low fat, add breadcrumbs instead) and bake for 20 minutes. Another option, which a commenter on my Instagram mentioned, is adding roasted slivered almonds. Drool!

More info:

  • I stayed at Villa Rose, Samoëns, courtesy of Villa Rose. 
  • I flew with Easy Jet to Geneva. Flights are from £90 both ways. 
  • Transfers from Geneva airport to Samoens are available: a shuttle costs around £60 return while a private taxi is anything from £260 return to £316. Villa Rose has its own taxi service which you can arrange for a fee.
  • If hiring a car during winter, make sure you have the motorway ‘vignette’ (pass) for exiting Geneva or you will get a fine. 
  • Also make sure you ask for chains for the tires. To buy them in the Alps costs more than usual and the hire company should provide them for a small fee. 
  • Find out more at Samoëns.com

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Comments

  1. caramelnibbles

    January 12, 2016 at 6:44 pm

    That cake looks so yummy and the window seat seems very cosy. I adore a raclette!

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      January 12, 2016 at 10:54 pm

      I love window seats! a lovely place to read or work

      Reply
    • Anonymous

      January 14, 2016 at 7:42 pm

      Well done Villa Rose. Proud Mum of the man who provides the "daily Cakes".

      Reply

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Instagram post 2189276090585638215_28574231 Aranzata, a sardinian Christmas treat went down well at last nights supperclub - there are none left! Candied orange peel but candied with honey rather than sugar, mixed with almonds and a little wild fennel.  Recipe:  Peel off the orange peel of an orange, taking care to eliminate any of the white pith. Place in a pan of cold water and bring to the boil. Do this 4 times, discarding the water each time. Then dry the peel on a tea towel. Put back in the pan and cover with honey. Add peeled almonds finely chopped lengthways. Simmer and stir until the honey is absorbed into the peel. Take a rubber/plastic chocolate mould and press in a teaspoon of the mixture in each hole. Leave to set and cool. Unmould the little pucks of pleasure. I added some candied fennel seeds that I got from @souschefuk , ground them up and scattered over the top. Serve at the end of the meal with coffee.  #sardinianrecipes #suppervlub #christmas #christmassweets #orangesweets #honey #travelrecipes #recipesfromitaly #recipesfromabroad #msmarmitelover #supperclubchef #theundergroundrestaurant #london #inspiredbysardinia
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Instagram post 2186581155877038874_28574231 Made a torta de Santiago today, inspired by doing the Camino de Santiago. It’s gluten-free, made with almonds rather than flour. I ate this as part of the ‘pilgrims menu’ all along the trail. They were vastly different in quality- often rather dry and dull. The best I had in actual Santiago de compostella, made ‘casera’ Spanish for home-made. It was sticky and rich. Equal proportions eggs, almond meal and caster sugar, with a pinch of salt, cinnamon and orange zest. I bought the traditional metal crosses at a hardware store in Santiago, one of my favourite lurking places when travelling. I will place one on top of the tart and powder the top with icing sugar, leaving an imprint of the cross. I bought this yellow bowl, a Galician craft, at a shop in Santiago.
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Instagram post 2181973256383167209_28574231 Follow the yellow arrow and the shell. Arrival at #santiagodecompostela ‘st James of the field of stars’ 💫 after doing the pilgrims Camino - 130 kms walking. It’s taken me several days to get over it physically but I feel immersed in autumn and ‘forest bathed’. All my thoughts, photos and adventures coming up on the blog soon. I definitely recommend doing this. But my advice is: even if it’s raining and you aren’t thirsty, drink water. First rule of catering is, if you’re feet are sore, you aren’t drinking enough- I ignored this. Buy waterproof lightweight boots for cold weather but keep them loose as your feet expand as you walk. Buy anti blister socks- yes that’s a thing. Wear 2 pairs of socks: one thin merino wool or anti blister and one thick merino wool. Buy a rain cape which will cover your bag and camera. Train before you go- not just on flat but on hills- much of the Camino is hilly. Take toilet paper or wet wipes. Take a spare pair knickers. Take a walking stick or buy one there . Most things you need you can buy on the Camino. Take a strong bag on a string or a fanny pack for easy access to pilgrims passport for stamps; water; phone/camera. Stretch before and after. Keep to your own pace- sometimes it feels like a competition but it isn’t- we all have our own rythym and pace- when you arrive at the cathedral it doesn’t matter how long it took you to get there- you did it. Don’t rush- if you get injured your Camino is finished. #walkthisway #followtheshell #caminodesantiago #msmarmitelover #msmarmite #hiking #Spain #pilgrimage #santiagodecompostella #theway #fitness #pace #selfcare #travel #blogger #igtravel
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Instagram post 2177561799364984754_28574231 Not gonna lie, this has been physically very tough. As my sister says ‘ we are from an indoors family from an indoors country’. Yesterday I did the longest day yet- officially 18km- but I did 35,000 steps! I’m small so I have a small step. So I converted steps into km and I did 27 km. that’s what it felt like. My legs throbbed all night, I had to take paracetamol to get to sleep. Have I had any life changing thoughts? Or spiritual revelations? Not a one. Well, maybe one which is I must get fitter. I mustn’t stop after this pilgrimage. I must get my health in order. Being freelance and working mostly on my own, it’s had to give myself time to look after myself. To assign time for fitness. Being freelance means never ending guilt about not searching for work. Never having stress free time off, as you don’t get paid holidays, sick pay or paid during national holidays such as Christmas. There is always a certain level of low key stress. Of keeping your self esteem up when you aren’t earning. The envy of others getting lauded for work you have pioneered. But I love my freedom! My opportunities to be creative. #thoughts #freelance #caminodesantiago #hiking #fitness #pilgrimage #spain #galicia #supperclub #rain
Instagram post 2175408625380307897_28574231 I was going to blog every day but the truth is I’m too knackered. I’m doing insta stories and my diary. Day 6. We are only doing about 14 km a day but it’s hard. I’m hobbling by the end. It’s the whole consecutiveness that is so punishing to the body. Oh to be young again. The youngsters are pounding through 30-40 km a day. We get up have coffee and don’t rest for 6 hours. We arrive around 3pm and have a massive drunken menu del dia with jugs of vino tinto. Then I fall asleep. Then I wake up for a bit and charge everything up, make notes, edit pix and sort out outfit for tomorrow. Which is basically the same everyday. I did wash a lot of knickers in the shower today as I was running low. So weather: raining all day. Puts the grim into pilgrim. But I am loving this. Thanks @caminoways #pushingyourself #msmarmitelover #msmarmite #caminodesantiago #caminofrances #camino #walking #pilgrimage #spain #galicia #greedypilgrim #stjames #followtheshell
Instagram post 2173661800793301108_28574231 Persimon and pumpkin soup, recipe up on the blog now. Msmarmitelover.com the great thing about doing the #caminodesantiago in #November is that the trail isn’t crowded, the weather is cool, and you see #pumpkinpatches everywhere which are always like something out of a #fairytale. Here they serve sopa de Galicia which is always prepared with meat stock, usually chicken. I so want soup on the Camino. When I get home I’m going to devise a #vegetarian #galiciansoup #buencamino #recipe #soup #pumpkin #squash #fall #autumnvibes🍁 #autumnfood #foodietraveller #greedypilgrim @caminoways @spanishpersimon #traveller #hiker #walker
Instagram post 2172857478425645569_28574231 The Camino to Santiago. While November isn’t the most popular month, and there is certainly rain, the landscape, the nature and colours of the countryside are so vibrant it’s like being on an acid trip. Nature at its most vivid: acorns with their fairy cups, bronze oak leaves and rusty ferns, mushrooms frilly with gills, apples 🍎 on the bough tumbling into sky blue rivulets, giant pumpkins in a patch, moss covered walls, dolmens and menhirs, rooves covered with slate like fish scales, lichen and donkeys, horses, spiney umbrellas like an opened coquille de St Jacques, cows called Luna. I did 14 km today my first day and that was enough. I fell asleep in front of the fire at the #albergue this is a #presstrip with @caminoways #galicia #greedypilgrim #caminodesantiago #msmarmitelover @advantagesofage @imogen_rodgers_1 #autumn #spain #walking #hiking #travel #contemplation #pushingyourself
Instagram post 2169866030516446893_28574231 Persimon Pani puri recipe up on the blog Msmarmitelover.com a street food which includes a flavour spectrum- sour, sweet, salty, hot, spicy, refreshing, crunchy, wet and dry, fruity and carby. Making the Puri from scratch took a couple of goes to get right but actually isn’t hard. #supperclub #msmarmitelover #msmarmite #spanishpersimon #vegetarian #vegan #recipe #chaat #streetfood #indiansnacks #canape #diwali
Instagram post 2169277948175951209_28574231 Overlooking the river at #vallaro in piedmont. Nearby was #sacroMonte, a hilltop religious monument with 45 chapels, each containing strange plaster statues of animals and saints, 800 of them.
Instagram post 2167511482116167199_28574231 Persimon fruit leather (the easiest EVER as it has so much pectin- just purée it, add sweetness spread on a silpat and in cool oven for a few hours), rolled into a pinwheel with bergamot zest and mint and goats cheese, a delicious canapé. This was served at last nights #persimon #supperclub for #Halloween on behalf of @spanishpersimon . Next week I’m going to Valencia to visit the farm.  #msmarmitelover #msmarmite #singleingredientmenus #fruit #vegetarian #canapé #christmascanapes #canapeideas
Instagram post 2166825702523830758_28574231 I’ve been working with persimon fruit for the last 3 weeks, pushing the envelope with what we can do with persimons other than just eat them like apples. And guess what? I still like them, I’m not bored. They are a wonderful autumn winter seasonal fruit. They are also really good for you. #VitC #fibre #5aday, #potassium #iron #calcium #betacarotene #vitA #7aday #manganese #B6 #supperclub #halloween #fruit
Instagram post 2166106717029345626_28574231 The creamy interior of a baked Camembert offset by persimons from Spain. This is the cheese course from my Halloween supperclub for @spanishpersimon this Thursday. #supperclub #persimmon #persimon #sharonfruit #kaki #cheese #camembert #bakedcheese #halloween #spanishfruit #igfood #autumnvibes🍁
Instagram post 2165411211139548124_28574231 Persimon bread, adapted from a recipe by @davidlebovitz. I used fresh persimon pulp and dried persimons with walnuts and @southafricanraisins now I have to decide whether to serve it as canapés, topped with goats cheese and fresh persimon or with the cheese course. 🤔#supperclub #halloween #spanishpersimon #fallfood #autumnvibes🍁 #food #travelandfood #spanishingredients #recipes #vegetarian #desserts #bread #fruitbread
Instagram post 2164809413936743946_28574231 Hazelnut risotto using carnaroli rice from @magicolucedio from piedmont. I used Piedmontese white wine as well as hot vegetable stock, use a moscato or arneis. Keep stirring for 18 minutes until creamy with a kernel of al dente rice. When I visited piedmont, I ate 4 risottos in 3 days! It’s grown in this region, being similar to a sushi type rice- round- rather than long. It’s beautiful stuff- ivory and pure- and I didn’t want to add any colour other than a few local hazelnuts, pecorino and nut oil such as walnut or hazelnut. Warming food for cold rainy autumn days. #supperclub #rice #risotto #hazelnuts #northernitaly🇮🇹 #visitpiemonte #foodandtravel #vegetarianrecipes #igfood #vegetarianfoodporn #regionsofitaly #femalechef
Instagram post 2163915113036239687_28574231 Cinnamon, pistachio and persimon pudding. Persimmon pudding is a southern dish but I added a touch of the Middle East. It’s so easy to make: remove stalks of fruit then blend. Add a cup of flour, a cup of sugar, 50g butter, spices, pinch of baking soda and bake in the oven for 45 minutes at 180c. #persimon #persimmon #kaki #sharon #recipetesting #supperclub #halloween #spanishfruit #winterfruit #seasonalcooking #baking #dessert #foodblogger #chef
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