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First Weekend

October 21, 2009 2 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

Purple cauliflower with anchovy mayonnaise
Champagne ‘Les Vignes de Vrigny’, milk of maize shots, and padron roulette.
Cucumber boats with trout
David Clasen with spoons of caviar ‘Belgian Flag’
Seared tuna, again cooked ‘a point’ just so. An energy boost that only clean tasting fish can deliver.
Chilled courgette soup and it’s rollmops, seared foie gras
Beautifully bottled water from Les Vosges
The softly lit room with a perfect 12 and Jont singing
Shimeji and Gres des Vosges Risotto (perfectly cooked and creamy) served with Riesling Turckheim 2006 Zind–Humbrecht
Aubergine with delicious and unusual nutmeg icecream with pointy cabbage
Sanglier slow-roast with pointy cabbage, onion tart and nutmeg ice-cream. Obviously I didn’t taste the meat, but everybody was oohing and aahing and conversation ground to a halt so…
Guests listening to Jont‘s songs of failure in love and other areas…
There were three plates of cheese, passed from table to table
Vacherin with a spoon, one of the season’s earliest…
Going goat (my fave)
I was greedy and had a bit of both desserts…1)Apple and blackberry oat-crumble with saffron custard 2)Victoria jelly and ‘whoosh’ (an aeriated mousse)
Exquisite china…a wedding present

A decade before Horton and I started our home restaurants, sparking the new wave of supperclubs in London, David Clasen was doing the same thing every first Saturday of the month in South Kensington.

Until recently he never charged, and in the early stages, all the guests were friends, contacts or friends or friends. “A gentle marketing” he calls this. But things have changed, he’s given up his job in the city, and he’s now asking for donations of around £50. The standard of his food and the wine is very high.
The night I went, arriving just a little late, as instructed (1), ARTE, the Franco-German channel were filming. Cameramen were positioned on roof tops over David’s small back yard. Looking up while drinking champagne, one felt, somewhat thrillingly, that we were about to be shot at by snipers…
David only ever cooks for 12 diners, for him the perfect number(2) for a successful dinner, and besides he only has 12 plates, glasses and chairs. Like many home restaurants, decisions are made due to site specific limitations, he can only lay out 12 plates at a time in his rather small kitchen. He also cites as inspiration, the New York restaurant Momofuko which only has 12 covers, set dining times and an egalitarian pre-paid booking system.
Normally he is helped by his son Leo who, until recently, in a bizarre coincidence, also went to the Lycee in London, just like my daughter. On this occasion his French wife Caroline did front of house honours.
We are seated, after a selection of amuse-bouches, in traditional style, alternately man then woman. Halfway through the meal, the ladies stood up and swapped tables, a great way of getting to talk to everybody.
The guests, interesting conversationalists, are older and better off than my crowd. The exception, along with me, being a young man Jont, playing ‘inter-course’ songs, strumming on heartfelt guitar, who specialises in house concerts.
There were excellent matched wines (I loved the Bourgogne Chardonnay 2005 Jean Grivot)with every course, water from Les Vosges, an area of France that is mostly unknown to British tourists…
David calls this ‘a slow burn’. He’s gradually perfecting his skills to start his own restaurant which will be part-time. (Contact him if you know of any A3 premises available in central London). He has worked as a commis chef for various restaurants, but he didn’t want to be a full-time cook. Like me, he’s never done catering college. He describes his food as ‘aggressively seasonal”. Every menu is different. His other passion is singing.
We talked about what night to hold suppers, how that changes the dynamic…Thursday nights are good for people with second homes or families in the countryside, Friday lunchtime to evening is urban, people coming straight from work, still in work mode. Saturday night is a dress up, going out, special occasion night. Sunday is relaxed.. a roast and BBQ vibe.
The cheese board, including one of the first Vacherin cheeses of the season, was stunning, a real treat. We finished with Tomtom coffee and sweetmeats…the owner of Tomtom coffee was sat next to me. He also owns a cigar shop, one of the few public places you are allowed to smoke indoors, and regaled us with funny stories of ‘working ladies’ in his area.
The warm atmosphere, careful management of the evening, skillful cooking and well chosen wines make First Weekend a must visit. Contact David at www.firstweekend.co.uk

(1) So difficult when people arrive early for dinner parties for it’s the moment when you get that final chance to stick on a bit of mascara and lippy. You feel you have to entertain them. But with transport problems at present, this is happening more frequently, and you can hardly make them wait on the doorstep in the cold. The perfect guest arrives 10 minutes late.
(2) Twelve is an important number to Abrahamic religions, astrology, the Chinese Zodiac, the modern Western calender, and of course time. According to wikipedia “Twelve is a sublime number, a number that has a perfect number of divisors, and the sum of its divisors is also a perfect number” and relevantly “The duodenum (from Latin duodecim, “twelve”) is the first part of the small intestine, that is about twelve inches long.”

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Comments

  1. The Curious Cat

    October 23, 2009 at 2:03 pm

    The more I read, the more I want to have my own supper club or place…alas…now is not the time at present…looks like once again you had a very interesting evening with some fantastic food! What is Lycee by the way? xxx

    Reply
  2. lady gray

    October 26, 2009 at 3:52 pm

    lovely post Marmite! 🙂 i learn something new every time. x
    Lady Gray

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
My piece in the @hamandhigh about the 3 day @heat My piece in the @hamandhigh about the  3 day @heathostile training course. Incredibly interesting & challenging. Link: https://www.hamhigh.co.uk/things-to-do/hostile-environment-training-9037980 to read more #hostileenvironmenttraining
Supper club dishes from Saturday: pickled beetroot Supper club dishes from Saturday: pickled beetroot eggs, cheeseboard, stracciatella & cucumber, tomato/strawberry/peashoot salad with real balsamic & spruce oil, home cured dill gravlax, smoked salmon, homemade sourdough crisp bread, potato salad with wild fennel & lots more! #supperclub #midsummer #eattherainbow (miss you @linnsoederstroem)
Last nights supper club. My first supper club in 2 Last nights supper club. My first supper club in 2 years was great fun. I’m pleased with my food, the guests were lovely, it looked magical in the garden. But the weather! I even had to bring my duvets from the bedroom out. They looked like refugees. But this brought even more laughter! Next event September
My first supperclub in two years will take place t My first supperclub in two years will take place this Saturday 18th June starting at 7.30pm. Tickets are £50 byo you can book here: https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsommar-supper-club there are still a few places left. Pescetarian menu. Scandi and botanical influences. #gettingbackonmyfeet #postpandemic #smallbusinesses #supperclub #london
I recently completed the 3 day @heathostile train I recently completed the 3 day  @heathostile training course. On the last day I was kidnapped by ex-special forces for a few hours & learnt how to deal with compliance training & a hostile environment. It was one of the most interesting experiences of my life. 3 intense days of combat first aid, navigation & how to survive in a war zone. I handled short, long guns, mortars, grenades, bullets, and tourniquet & bandaged an amputee. I learnt where to sit in a car, where to hide from a bullet, where to protect myself if in a car. It was brilliant. Highly recommended for any journalists, photographers, cameramen, charity workers, paramedics going into any difficult environment say a disaster or war. The stories from the tutors & the other participants were so interesting. My piece on it out soon. Book a course: https://hostile-environment.co.uk/  They also do jungle & desert training. I’d love to join the Antarctic expedition. Anyway that’s me hooded in the front. #adventures #het #hostileenvironmenttraining #experiences #travel
Bundoran beach, Donegal. I spent a week knocking o Bundoran beach, Donegal. I spent a week knocking on doors, going to libraries, searching through graveyards for my Irish forebears. It’s really hard to find information prior to 1850. I found this in last years trip to Arbroath in Scotland. Headstones wear out, records are lost or burnt in a fire, everybody has the same name and are known by nicknames, successive children have the same first name, that usually means they died and the next one is called by the same thing. Women did have children out of wedlock, and people remarried more often than you’d think, plus families fall out & never see each other again. I learnt that my Irish great grandfather michael went to Glasgow & met a woman who came from a similar place: somewhere wild & beautiful by the sea. Then they and their children came to london. Chasing the work & the money always. Politics and economics matter for they push people around from rural to city. And now we rodgers are Londoners. #ireland #scotland #family #travel #roots
How some of us celebrate the Queen’s jubilee! My How some of us celebrate the Queen’s jubilee! My sister & a random Irishman come for the Rory Gallagher festival in ballyshannon. Sis has pulled already!  #getyourcoat #sexpistols #ballyshannon #rorygallagherfestival #ireland
Tullaghan, county Leitrim, Donegal, where my grea Tullaghan, county Leitrim, Donegal,  where my great great grandfather john Rodgers was a postman, then a tailor, then a pawnbroker. #irishheritage #donegal #myancestry #irish #rodgers #travel
I’ve taken down the previous post as it’s poor I’ve taken down the previous post as it’s poor timing considering what’s happened over the last 24 hours. Being British I’ve not grown up around guns. It’s interesting to be on this course and find out more about the reality of them, although my focus is learning the ‘golden triangle’ of first aid, communications and navigation. But at the same time It’s depressing how in America nothing will ever change regarding gun law. RIP.
Me as a punk. #pinkhair @caplanmelissa Me as a punk. #pinkhair @caplanmelissa
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in June I’m having my first supper club in two y in June I’m having my first supper club in two years: here is the link to book: https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsommar-supper-club £50 18th June  Saturday night. Byo.
#chelseaflower coming up. Last year I bought these succulents and planted them in a vintage zinc garden sieve. Now they are flowering. My balcony is like a little greenhouse: I can grow aubergines & other plants that usually need to be under glass. #londongarden #may #plants #succulents in the garden
Lemon drizzle cake. The trick is not to stint on t Lemon drizzle cake. The trick is not to stint on the citrus. I used 7: 2 Italian lemons (from Lidl):some ordinary lemons and some limes (18p) at Lidl. Don’t be afraid to mix and match your citrus. I also used buttermilk from @fenfarmdairy in Suffolk from their honesty shop. Last night we ate it still warm from the oven. #cake #lemondrizzle #homebaking #citrus #buttermilk
A Simple tomato, goats cheese and basil salad, spa A Simple tomato, goats cheese and basil salad, spanking fresh asparagus / fried in olive oil, season, then add a little boiling water, not too much, put on the lid, dressed with lemon zest & Parmesan, @fenfarmdairy baron bigod cheese, good bread. This is how I like to eat. Claire’s plates found at the beccles brocante. #suffolk #suffolkfood #supper #dinnerwithfriends  #vintageplates
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Just wrote a very personal piece for @hamandhigh o Just wrote a very personal piece for @hamandhigh on my decade as a single parent on benefits, how I learned to cook & how things are so much harder now because not only are ingredients pricier but the cost of cooking them is too. 3 budget gourmet meals serving 4, for £2.50 each. #costoflivingcrisis #budgetgourmet #povertyshame #singleparents #foodblogger
Easter Sunday. Daffodil skeletons. Easter Sunday. Daffodil skeletons.
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