• Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Snapchat
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

MsMarmiteLover

  • Food
    • Recipes
    • Vegetarian
    • Vegan
  • Travel
    • France
    • Italy
    • Spain
    • UK
  • Wine
  • Gardens
  • Supperclubs/Events
  • About
    • Published Articles
    • Books
  • Shop
    • Cart

Patrick O’Brian night at The Underground Restaurant

February 9, 2010 6 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

Stargazy pie

Quail’s egg shells

Blind Scouse

Ship’s Biscuit
Stargazy pie: ‘canoed’ herrings, that is, they have been de-boned from the top.

Stargazy pie before baking
Steaming the pease pudding

Vegetarian Suet
Isn’t the baby cute? Weighed about 9lbs.
Feet first!

Wrapped tightly in a cloth, looking like Moses in the rushes, boil/steam for at least two and a half hours


“You’re late!” I barked opening the door at 8.30pm.

The two young pretty girls standing there in the cold trembled, made as if to go away. “Sorry, sorry” they whimpered.

“All right then you can come in” I allowed grumpily, beckoning them in “we’ll just have to put the table back. You’ve missed the first course”

They ducked in, still apologising, gabbling about transport problems.

“Don’t worry about the first course, if you like” they said in their piping voices.

Ross, Scottish Front of house, swivelled into the living room, carrying a 2 person table over the heads of the diners, plonking it down in front of the fire. The girls sat down obediently, coats still on, as table cloth, napkins, cutlery were gradually placed on the table. Two glasses of grog were dolled out.

“No. It’s fine.” I said with an air of martyrdom.

Only later did I realise they were also supperclub hosts ‘Altenburg Kitchen’. I didn’t recognise them. My daughter said to me

“Mum you can’t talk to guests as if they are your children. It’s not me coming in late after a night out.”

I felt a bit sheepish. I’m getting bossier. I find myself telling guests off all the time. On Burns night I had to tell the whole room off for taking more than one welcome drink. I remonstrated with one woman for not eating up all her dinner. This night Ross told me somebody complained about corkage and the price of the meal. (My teen said afterwards “never tell mum stuff like this, you don’t know what it’ll lead to”).

I reacted with outrage “What does she look like?”.

Armed with a description I marched out to the living room and confronted said diner with

“I told you there was corkage beforehand. It was listed on the website. Plus it’s not expensive”.

The poor woman, taken aback, said “it wasn’t me, it was her” pointing to her companion.

Who then said “It is expensive”.

“NO IT ISN’T’ I insisted “plus if you thought it was, why did you book?” I finished with triumphant logic.

She had no answer to that. In the end she thoroughly enjoyed it, despite a tongue mauling by moi.
Quite a few guests came in pirate or sailor gear, one with a plastic swashbuckling sword; the police laughed at her ‘dangerous weapon’ when she was spotted exiting the tube.
The final menu:
Grog (the original recipe suggested half a cup of rum, a little sugar, ginger, cochineal and hot water. Each. Naturally I diluted these proportions)
Blind Scouse soup.
Carrots, onions, leeks, pearl barley, butterbeans and various strange spices such as juniper berries, mace and all spice.
Hard tack or Ships Biscuit.
I didn’t bake these the prerequisite (if they were to last five years at sea) four times. Once was enough. I announced that any dentistry problems would be at guest’s own risk. Bizarrely some people liked them and asked for more. It was very difficult to knead the dense dough, folding it repeatedly into layers, one recipe suggested driving over the dough (in a bag) in a car.
Stargazy pie.
This was spectacular, theatrical food. Combining a few recipes together (some have pastry on the bottom, some don’t) eventually it was comprised of herrings, quails eggs, cream, white wine, carrots and onions. James of @mycotswoldfood made shortcrust pastry and constructed them while I got on with the rest of the prep. I can see why they are not on menus all the time as it’s very time consuming to make them. However it was well worth the effort. I added pastry stars and a moon on top and moulded the edges into wave-like shapes.
Dog’s Body:
or pease pudding. This took hours to cook, steaming in a tea towel. It’s the equivalent of dhal or hummus. I mixed the pease with copious amounts of butter.
Cheese board of Oatcakes, honey, Edam cheese and Cheshire cheese.
The original story behind Edam’s red wax skins is that the cheese was hung over cow dung to mature. The ammonia from the dung would stain the wax red. Edam and Cheshire were both authentic shipboard cheeses as I could not obtain ‘Flet’ cheese which is no longer made.
‘Boiled baby’
served with James’ superbly light custard to which I added rosewater. Rosewater was frequently used in the 18th century in much the same way that vanilla is nowadays. The boiled baby, a very heavy suet pudding, took hours of steaming. It was the sort of thing you’d really want to eat if you’d spent several bells up the rigging in a force ten gale. I had soaked the sultanas in sherry to add an alcoholic kick.

Coffee with ratafia biscuits
which were incredibly easy to make. Ground almonds, almond essence, rosewater and egg white.
Many of my recipes were sourced and adapted from this fascinating book ‘Lobscouse and Spotted Dog‘ by mother and daughter team Anne Grossman and Lisa Grossman Thomas based on the work of Patrick O’Brian.
This girl had to be given step by step instructions how to put a record on. When the music finished, Ross the waiter said “we need another record”. “Why don’t you put the other side on?” I asked. He said with surprise“There’s another side?!” I was looking at him wondering if he was taking the piss/remedially stupid, then realised, of course, that CDs only play on one side. Youngsters eh?
It was great to work with and learn from James Benson, a gentle giant, previously a sous chef at Claridges and now located in the Cotswolds. Here’s his website and his blog (in my blog roll). He now caters for private dinners, weddings and tourists, the latter a great idea for mothers on self-catering holidays because it’s not exactly a break for them if they are still doing all the cooking like at home. James is used to adapting to different kitchens. Judging by the quality of his cooking, his sauces in particular were fantastic, I couldn’t recommend him more highly. The prices are damn reasonable too. We talked about the difficulty of making a living in food when you can’t sell alcohol as restaurants tend to make most profit on drink.

Link to Lucy Inglis’ Georgian London formspring

What would be a typical Georgian meal?

If you were going out to a pub or inn during the day, they served a thing called ‘the ordinary’, which was the hot dish of the day, or it would have meant cold meats and cheese on a sideboard, with a small salad selection.

If you ate in, it would be common to have a soup or a fish course, even it was just a couple of grilled or pickled herring/oysters, followed by dressed meat of some description or a pie served hot. It was good drills to have at least one salad and a crisply cooked green vegetable. Not so different to us now really. Portions weren’t enormous, so when you see loads of different dishes on a table, it doesn’t mean it amounted to gargantuan amounts of food. I can PDF you Hannah Glasse’s Art of Cookery if you like. @msmarmitelover

Recent posts

Yeni Raki dinner at Ruya, London

November 26, 2023

La Clique, a spiegeltent show in Leicester Square, London and a late dinner at Wong Kei

November 21, 2023

The real Maldives by Mary Wedgewood

November 19, 2023

Previous Post: « Ahoy there! Wine, women and war
Next Post: Cocaine, blancmange and Suzi Q »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. The Curious Cat

    February 10, 2010 at 1:49 pm

    The pie really goes look like something special! How marvellous! 🙂 xxx

    Reply
  2. Sarah, Maison Cupcake

    February 10, 2010 at 2:47 pm

    Your menus are always so lovingly researched, I would never ever think of eating any of these things unprompted but I am sure I would enjoy everything if I came. Must admit I'm a bit scared now though!!

    Reply
  3. theundergroundrestaurant

    February 11, 2010 at 10:26 am

    It's true, I am a complete ogre.

    Reply
  4. Helen

    February 11, 2010 at 9:01 pm

    I am part Cornish and stargazy pie has a very special place in my heart. I have pictures of it hanging in my house. Many happy memories.

    Reply
  5. Ben

    February 19, 2010 at 12:56 pm

    Good work on the pie! Definitely worth the effort isn't it?

    Reply
  6. theundergroundrestaurant

    February 19, 2010 at 1:40 pm

    Yes Ben and thanks for your inspiration to put pastry stars on top!

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Primary Sidebar

MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

Subscribe to my mailing list

msmarmitelover

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Yesterday I visited Noto in Sicily. It’s famous Yesterday I visited Noto in Sicily. It’s famous for baroque architecture. The churches, shops and streets are ready for Christmas, with nativity scenes, lights and wrapped presents. The light is beautiful, softly golden, as it is in all of these villages under the eaves of Mount Etna, puffing innocently in the background. Sicily has so much to discover. Of course I had an orange, olive and fennel salad. #citrus #travel #sicily #noto
Went to see the orange groves of @la_.deliziosa_ i Went to see the orange groves of @la_.deliziosa_ in Sicily, under the eaves of mount Etna which is glowing orange with streams of lava making their way down the snowy verges. The air smells of charcoal, smoke and occasionally sulphur. This grove is seven years old. The oranges 🍊 have stretch marks like the swollen belly of a pregnant woman. They will be ready to pick in two weeks. #citrusseason #sicily
The most brilliant focaccia from the Puglia region The most brilliant focaccia from the Puglia region, hot, oily, crispy, with sweet cherry 🍒 tomatoes, green olives and plenty of salt- which we ate in the fields with the farmers. Food always tastes better when eaten outside. @commissioneuvadatavola
More bits done to my dining room. Painting the bar More bits done to my dining room. Painting the bare woodwork in @littlegreenepaintcompany, moving furniture around, building a spice cupboard. Tablecloth from @dunelmuk I’m off to Naples and Sicily today so it’s all a bit rushed. More tidying, painting organising on my return. Hey interiors people, paint companies, homeware and tableware companies- I’m up for collabs! #tablescape #crockery #kitchens #diningrooms #pantry #reclaimedwindows #spicecupboards #scallops #stripes #rawplaster #london
I went to an amazing @yenirakiglobal lunch today @ I went to an amazing @yenirakiglobal lunch today @ruyalondon a gorgeous Turkish restaurant just off Park lLne. It was hosted by the lovely drink expert @douglasblyde (Evening Standard drinks columnist). It was nice to see some old faces from the blogging world. I loved the ‘Istanbul- bull’ cocktail made from elderflower ginger beer and Rami with a sliver of cucumber. We had a demonstration on how to make khachapuri Turkish style. In turkey they say ‘let’s go for a raki’ meaning shots of raki with mezze. The sea bass with a pistachio crust was a great match as was the smoked salmon with pink peppercorns. Raki goes great with fish. I also loved the ‘lonely’ dip ‘rafik’ which is something you order when you are lonely- then everybody joins you.  Raki is sometimes referred to as ‘lions milk’ because it goes white when you add water and it puts hairs on your chest. Raki is made from wild fennel and grape way de vie. Fennel, like liquorice, is 13  times sweeter than sugar. First week of December is #worldrakiday #raki #turkey #turkishfood
Christmas present suggestions for foodies: a month Christmas present suggestions for foodies: a monthly subscription to @thetinnedfishmarket I love the packaging, it’s so useful to have in the pantry for last minute meals. The top three tins are from the November selection: tuna, sardines and mackerel. The bottom 3 tins are anchovies, stuffed calamari and smoked oysters. I recently used their tinned smoked tuna in a recipe- it’s a revelation. I often buy my daughter tinned fish for birthday or Christmas #christmasgiftsideas #subscriptions #christmasforfoodies #tinnedfish #foodpackaging
Berenjenas de la abuela con miel. This is my Sagit Berenjenas de la abuela con miel. This is my Sagittarian recipe for @holidaygoddessguide sag loves fiery hot fried food, purple is Jupiter’s colour, and Spain a sag country. This tapas recipe is a dead cert for the archer. Topped with Venusian honey… #astrology #planetarydiet #recipes #tapas
I made Mas Huni, a Maldivian breakfast dish, using I made Mas Huni, a Maldivian breakfast dish, using smoked tuna from @thetinnedfishmarket I like a savoury breakfast and this hits the spot. I have a post up on the blog tomorrow by Mary Wedgewood who has just spent a year teaching in the Maldives- a very different experience from the sun, sand and luxury you get in the resorts. #tinnedfish #maldives #mashuni
Last night I went to see @lacliquetheshow in a spi Last night I went to see @lacliquetheshow in a spiegeltent (a kind of wooden tent) in Leicester Square, London. A series of neo-circus acts, some rather saucy with a wonderful torch singer with top bants entertained us. A real Christmas treat- it’s only on for 8 weeks. Probably not for children although I recall my parents taking me and my younger brother and sister to see the original cast of the Rocky Horror Show in kings road. Us kids were gob smacked yet inspired.  @multitudemedia thank you  #cabaret #circus #christmastheatre #london
A quick butternut squash soup in the @vitamixuk wi A quick butternut squash soup in the @vitamixuk with Austrian pumpkin oil and pistachios as I’d run out of pumpkin seeds. Served in enamel mugs (I love enamel, it’s lightweight and unbreakable . The chips just give it more character. #soup #autumn #enamelware
I went to the most fabulous dinner tonight in this I went to the most fabulous dinner tonight in this old theatre near London Bridge, with actors playing the roles of famous French cheeses. The food was great, the company charming, the atmosphere, like being at the Kit Kat club in cabaret, and le fromage divine. #enjoyitsfromeurope #cheeseatheart #cheesesfromfrance #frenchloveaffair
Lebu or Bengali lemon in Whitechapel. These are so Lebu or Bengali lemon in Whitechapel. These are so floral. You just use the zest, there isn’t much juice or flesh. A pound each which is cheap. Just turn left out of Whitechapel station and most of the greengrocers have them. Do not confuse with lime. These are big and knobbly. #london #citrus #elizabethline #bengalifood
Incredibly cute single grilled sandwich maker made Incredibly cute single grilled sandwich maker made in Singapore @brunohotplateuk it comes in pink, lilac and red. It has multiple attachments for donuts, tarts, waffles, taiyaki fish waffles. Going to try it out tomorrow. Love the design and colours, it’s sturdiness- it’s metal. It’s sort of barbie industrial. #kaiwai #kitchengadgets #design #toasties #taiyaki #
Home grown poblano chillies. They didn’t reach t Home grown poblano chillies. They didn’t reach the size of one’s from Mexico, which are more like bell papers. But it’s virtually impossible to get fresh poblanos in the UK. It’s a shame as they are very mild, a more interesting flavour than bell peppers. They are wonderful stuffed, in soup or to make the Mexican national dish - poblanos with walnut sauce. #londongarden #londonmexicanfood
I’ve been doing the tube game, no cheating, no c I’ve been doing the tube game, no cheating, no conferring. This score means I’m officially a nerd according to @helenlewisposts I’ve always thought if I were kidnapped and held in solitary Terry Waite style, that this is how I’d pass my time, remembering every stop on the London Underground. They should do one for the paris metro. I lived in paris for 5 years so I wonder how I’d do with that. This is the link if you want to have a go: https://london.metro-memory.com
Russell Norman’s latest book Brutto @bru.tto all Russell Norman’s latest book Brutto @bru.tto all about florentine food and Tuscan recipes. Beautifully designed, great photos. Recipes include florence favourites such as panini con lampredotto ( tripe- not for me thanks), schiacciata, negronis. Can’t say I’m a fan of salt less Tuscan bread though ( introduced due to the salt tax) but Russell explains it’s never supposed to be eaten on its own but as a mop for highly flavoured sauce. There are a lot of neat recipes but also plenty of vegetarian ones. Want to try the sugar caramelised pecorino. The book has the Russell Norman trademark of an exposed and stitched spine. Lovely design as ever. One for the Christmas lists. Also thankyou to @eburybooks for their quick efficiency in sending me the book. I do review books: for my blog, for social media and also for newspapers. Yet I struggle to get hard copies of books- looking @murdochbooks_uk for instance. I’ve asked for @tessakiros and @missfoodwise latest books but impossible. Sometimes publishers say we can send an e version. NO! Books are physical objects: the paper, the typeface the feel are all important otherwise I’ll just read a website. Also writers get paid SO little the least publishers can do is send you an actual book. Do they expect us to buy the copies? I find they’ll often send some shitty little TV cook or minor celebrity book or my particular personal horror- wellness books- but not actually something you want to review. Rant over. Not the authors fault but the publishers. #cookbook #review #publishers
Ophelias first birthday party. I made a smash cake Ophelias first birthday party. I made a smash cake: something babies have now, which means they can ‘smash’ it or plunge their face in. It was sugar free, gluten free etc. but Ophelia was rather refined while picking at it. She’s a little lady. Lots of presents, food, cakes, babies, tears and tantrums ( the latter from mum and grandma) #granfluencer
Happy first birthday to my granddaughter Ophelia. Happy first birthday to my granddaughter Ophelia. It’s brilliant being a grandma, nostalgia for the time my daughter was a baby. Having children is so interesting. It’s hard but worth it. I’m making her a smash cake for her party tomorrow. Find out more then… #granfluencer #ophelia #firstbirthday  1) & 2) Ophelia aprés Dégas  3) munchkin pumpkin.  4) winsome  5) bit rheumy with her mum.  6) trying on grandma’s sliders.  7) she has a teeny light up electric toothbrush with which she can clean her 4 teeth.  8) dress from portobello £2 and she has the most brilliant laugh.  9) her eyes have now turned golden brown but here she still had the new born’s blue eyes.
As it’s #worldpastaday I’ve made a little reel As it’s #worldpastaday I’ve made a little reel of my few days in Firenze or Florence. It’s horrendously crowded but glowing with golden romance. At the central market you can eat the local focaccia sandwiches ‘schiacciata’ often with tripe ‘lampredotto’ (boak), or pasta with truffles. Elsewhere you can drink affogato , a small coffee with gelato, you can walk over the pontevecchio bridge, lined with glinting jewellery shops, you can visit the uffizi gallery, the painted ceilings, the cherubs, the somber and carnal portraits, you can crane your neck up to the green and cream marble stripes of the churches, you can visit the paper makers of hand marbled stationery, and at the end of the day you drink a perfect sunset negroni with aperitivo snacks then take the tram to your hotel and plan to visit again when it’s quieter. When is it quiet? January? October was rammed. #travelandfood #solotravel #florence #firenze #italy
Today 21st October is #worldrepairday. I’ve been Today 21st October is #worldrepairday. I’ve been attending a workshop @camden_fixing_factory to learn how to repair toasters, kettles, fans, irons etc. we get them from a local dump, fix them then give them to charity. Very few actually need repair: they are thrown away because they have limescale ( a real problem with London water) or are dirty or something minor.  First we do a visual inspection - what appears to be wrong with it? Then we do a connectivity test with two probes to see if there is a circuit. Then a Pat test to see if it passes. Then we plug it in: does it work? With a toaster does the press down, pop up mechanism work? Does it toast? Then we clean it thoroughly- vacuuming all crumbs and polishing so that it looks almost as good as new. This is part of a European movement called Right to Repair @r2reurope whereby fixing things not just dumping in landfill is encouraged- not just on a personal level but businesses and manufacturers too. It’s very satisfying being things back to life. Next week kettles! #righttorepairmovement #camden
Load More... Follow on Instagram

Archives

Copyright © 2023 msmarmitelover