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La regalade: un jour et une nuit à Paris

August 30, 2010 5 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

Roller blading gendarmes, paris
Roller blading gendarmes

8 euro vegetarian thali at one of the Indian restaurants 'Madras café' along the Rue du Faubourg St Denis next to the Gare du Nord, paris
8 euro vegetarian thali at one of the Indian restaurants ‘Madras café’ along the Rue du Faubourg St Denis next to the Gare du Nord.

Thursday I got an unexpected trip to Paris courtesy of the teen (blog post here and here). Arriving in the afternoon starving, we had a cheap quick Indian late lunch near the Gare du Nord. Exhausted, we went to the cinema. When I lived in Paris I spent all my time either eating, cooking or going to the flicks. Unfortunately, the quirky cinéphile taste of ‘cahiers du cinema’-educated Parisians, sometimes leads to a mistake. We saw the execrable The Girl Hunters 1963 starring Mickey Spillane, a rare case of a writer playing his own central character. 
Chocolatier Trish Deseine, an Irish woman who has performed the miraculous feat of impressing the French with her recipe books and cooking, invited us to stay the night at her place. She made me the best polenta I’ve ever had; gooey and generous topped with Parmesan and home-made pesto. We sank a couple of bottles of rosé, talked of cookbooks. Around 2 am Trish produced two tightly wrapped packets of tin foil “The dark stuff is Ghanaian” she whispered opening them carefully. Once opened, I saw it was not in fact soft drugs but teensy dolls house bars of chocolate, her own product. We inhaled it, discussing texture and flavour. Trish talks about chocolate like a wine or coffee connoisseur. She should do a workshop.

 Trish Deseine's flat overlooking the rustling trees of the park, st germain
 Trish Deseine’s flat overlooking the rustling trees of the park.
 Trish gets out the hard stuff at the end of the meal: “Now this is 74% Tanzanian”. Trish is launching her own range of chocolate at Selfridges this autumn which will roll out all over the UK. 
Crack cacao, chez trish deseine, paris
Crack cacao 
The next day we went to a fashionable bistro La Regalade near the Louvre (there’s another in the 14th arrondissement) where ‘le tout Paris’ goes. The men had perfectly coiffed hair, tans and manbags, the women were after-dinner-mint thin and there was one exquisite child in a pressed cotton frock on best restaurant behaviour. The fixed menu was 33 euros and I got a bottle of Gewurztraminer at 25 euros.
 I 'papped' the chef Bruno Doucet, la regalade, paris
 I ‘papped’ the chef Bruno Doucet. French men are effortlessly sexy aren’t they? All utter bastards though.
 A simple and creatively presented wine menu with colour codes, la regalade, paris
 A simple and creatively presented wine menu with colour codes.
 Helmets lining the cloakroom. Even businessmen are on scooters, la regaled restaurant, paris
 Helmets lining the cloakroom. Even businessmen are on scooters.
A lovely funky amuse-bouche: cornichons and onion pickles. Not home-made however. Carnivores get a big terrine of paté, we got some bread and butter., la regalade, paris
 A lovely funky amuse-bouche: cornichons and onion pickles. Not home-made however. Carnivores get a big terrine of paté, we got some bread and butter. 
lasagne de légumes confits, mozzarella di buffala, jambon cru et basilic, la regalade, paris
 I loved this: lasagne de légumes confits, mozzarella di buffala, jambon cru et basilic. Really light soft lasagne but no ham for me.
Home cured salmon with a cucumber, spring onion and ginger salad, la regalade, paris
Saumon mariné par nos soins, salade de concombres et gingembre confit aux oignons nouveaux.
Home cured salmon with a cucumber, spring onion and ginger salad. (The salad was not adequately dressed but the salmon was like butter).
la regalade, paris
 The colours of the sauce with the rascasse are so pretty, worthy of Monet ‘Les nymphéas’.
filet of scorpion fish, squid ink risotto and squid strips fried like elvers or glass eels, la regalade, paris
 Filet de rascasse à la plancha, risotto a l’encre et calamars façon pibailles: filet of scorpion fish, squid ink risotto and squid strips fried like elvers or glass eels.
Half salted cod from Brittany, cooked in a broth, with Paimpol beans in basil, la regalade, paris
 Pavé de cabillaud de Brétagne demi-sel, cuit dans un bouillon parfumé, haricots de Paimpol au basilic
Half salted cod from Brittany, cooked in a broth, with Paimpol beans in basil.
rice pudding, la regalade, paris
Next door’s rice pudding. Which I tried. You see I simply can’t behave like a normal diner in conventional restaurants anymore, I always end up talking to the tables next to me and inevitably, get to try their food. Love the presentation of this and the generous flecks of vanilla but not sure about it being cold. Bruno, my love, some like it hot!
wattwiller water from les vosges, la regalade, paris
 This water seems to be all the rage in the best restaurants.
 Choco-praliné de la Regalade, Paris
 Choco-praliné de la Regalade. Complete with Mikado stick. Mind blowingly good said the teen.
 Grand Marnier soufflé, la regalade, Paris
 Grand Marnier soufflé. Believe it or not, I waited ten minutes (too busy chatting) before photographing it, so this is a slightly deflated version.
Graffitted locks on the fence of the Francois Mitterand foot bridge
 Lipsticked Kir Au Pére Tranquille café at Les Halles, Paris
 Lipsticked Kir Au Pére Tranquille café at Les Halles

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Comments

  1. Redford

    October 29, 2010 at 1:40 pm

    That food looks unbelievable. No matter how many times you go to France there is always another place you were supposed go to or have yet to even here of. One of these day I'm going to make a weeks worth of online table reservations and eat myself sick. Maybe just a weekend. Don't think my gout could take a week of French food.

    Reply
  2. Saborosa

    November 16, 2010 at 8:03 pm

    Yup, La Regalade is probably one of the best lunch deals in Paris. And such lovely staff – we sobremesa-ed like Spaniards and the last waitress made us feel like we could have stayed there till the dinner shift clocked on.

    That thali looks great, but my favourite when I lived there was Dishny's on rue Cail – hardly a secret, but consistently good for thalis and dhosas.

    Reply
  3. Douglas Blyde

    December 30, 2010 at 7:44 pm

    Graffited locks? -Those are lovers pledges!

    Reply
  4. theundergroundrestaurant

    December 30, 2010 at 11:35 pm

    Really Douglas? How sweet!
    Also just noticed some mistakes in my post!

    Reply
  5. Douglas Blyde

    December 31, 2010 at 12:50 pm

    I've seen it done before in a town in Liguria (http://www.intoxicatingprose.com/2007/08/lovers-lock-their-intentions.html)
    All the territory covered looks wonderful. Have a happy new year!

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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More bits done to my dining room. Painting the bar More bits done to my dining room. Painting the bare woodwork in @littlegreenepaintcompany, moving furniture around, building a spice cupboard. Tablecloth from @dunelmuk I’m off to Naples and Sicily today so it’s all a bit rushed. More tidying, painting organising on my return. Hey interiors people, paint companies, homeware and tableware companies- I’m up for collabs! #tablescape #crockery #kitchens #diningrooms #pantry #reclaimedwindows #spicecupboards #scallops #stripes #rawplaster #london
I went to an amazing @yenirakiglobal lunch today @ I went to an amazing @yenirakiglobal lunch today @ruyalondon a gorgeous Turkish restaurant just off Park lLne. It was hosted by the lovely drink expert @douglasblyde (Evening Standard drinks columnist). It was nice to see some old faces from the blogging world. I loved the ‘Istanbul- bull’ cocktail made from elderflower ginger beer and Rami with a sliver of cucumber. We had a demonstration on how to make khachapuri Turkish style. In turkey they say ‘let’s go for a raki’ meaning shots of raki with mezze. The sea bass with a pistachio crust was a great match as was the smoked salmon with pink peppercorns. Raki goes great with fish. I also loved the ‘lonely’ dip ‘rafik’ which is something you order when you are lonely- then everybody joins you.  Raki is sometimes referred to as ‘lions milk’ because it goes white when you add water and it puts hairs on your chest. Raki is made from wild fennel and grape way de vie. Fennel, like liquorice, is 13  times sweeter than sugar. First week of December is #worldrakiday #raki #turkey #turkishfood
Christmas present suggestions for foodies: a month Christmas present suggestions for foodies: a monthly subscription to @thetinnedfishmarket I love the packaging, it’s so useful to have in the pantry for last minute meals. The top three tins are from the November selection: tuna, sardines and mackerel. The bottom 3 tins are anchovies, stuffed calamari and smoked oysters. I recently used their tinned smoked tuna in a recipe- it’s a revelation. I often buy my daughter tinned fish for birthday or Christmas #christmasgiftsideas #subscriptions #christmasforfoodies #tinnedfish #foodpackaging
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I made Mas Huni, a Maldivian breakfast dish, using I made Mas Huni, a Maldivian breakfast dish, using smoked tuna from @thetinnedfishmarket I like a savoury breakfast and this hits the spot. I have a post up on the blog tomorrow by Mary Wedgewood who has just spent a year teaching in the Maldives- a very different experience from the sun, sand and luxury you get in the resorts. #tinnedfish #maldives #mashuni
Last night I went to see @lacliquetheshow in a spi Last night I went to see @lacliquetheshow in a spiegeltent (a kind of wooden tent) in Leicester Square, London. A series of neo-circus acts, some rather saucy with a wonderful torch singer with top bants entertained us. A real Christmas treat- it’s only on for 8 weeks. Probably not for children although I recall my parents taking me and my younger brother and sister to see the original cast of the Rocky Horror Show in kings road. Us kids were gob smacked yet inspired.  @multitudemedia thank you  #cabaret #circus #christmastheatre #london
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I went to the most fabulous dinner tonight in this I went to the most fabulous dinner tonight in this old theatre near London Bridge, with actors playing the roles of famous French cheeses. The food was great, the company charming, the atmosphere, like being at the Kit Kat club in cabaret, and le fromage divine. #enjoyitsfromeurope #cheeseatheart #cheesesfromfrance #frenchloveaffair
Lebu or Bengali lemon in Whitechapel. These are so Lebu or Bengali lemon in Whitechapel. These are so floral. You just use the zest, there isn’t much juice or flesh. A pound each which is cheap. Just turn left out of Whitechapel station and most of the greengrocers have them. Do not confuse with lime. These are big and knobbly. #london #citrus #elizabethline #bengalifood
Incredibly cute single grilled sandwich maker made Incredibly cute single grilled sandwich maker made in Singapore @brunohotplateuk it comes in pink, lilac and red. It has multiple attachments for donuts, tarts, waffles, taiyaki fish waffles. Going to try it out tomorrow. Love the design and colours, it’s sturdiness- it’s metal. It’s sort of barbie industrial. #kaiwai #kitchengadgets #design #toasties #taiyaki #
Home grown poblano chillies. They didn’t reach t Home grown poblano chillies. They didn’t reach the size of one’s from Mexico, which are more like bell papers. But it’s virtually impossible to get fresh poblanos in the UK. It’s a shame as they are very mild, a more interesting flavour than bell peppers. They are wonderful stuffed, in soup or to make the Mexican national dish - poblanos with walnut sauce. #londongarden #londonmexicanfood
I’ve been doing the tube game, no cheating, no c I’ve been doing the tube game, no cheating, no conferring. This score means I’m officially a nerd according to @helenlewisposts I’ve always thought if I were kidnapped and held in solitary Terry Waite style, that this is how I’d pass my time, remembering every stop on the London Underground. They should do one for the paris metro. I lived in paris for 5 years so I wonder how I’d do with that. This is the link if you want to have a go: https://london.metro-memory.com
Russell Norman’s latest book Brutto @bru.tto all Russell Norman’s latest book Brutto @bru.tto all about florentine food and Tuscan recipes. Beautifully designed, great photos. Recipes include florence favourites such as panini con lampredotto ( tripe- not for me thanks), schiacciata, negronis. Can’t say I’m a fan of salt less Tuscan bread though ( introduced due to the salt tax) but Russell explains it’s never supposed to be eaten on its own but as a mop for highly flavoured sauce. There are a lot of neat recipes but also plenty of vegetarian ones. Want to try the sugar caramelised pecorino. The book has the Russell Norman trademark of an exposed and stitched spine. Lovely design as ever. One for the Christmas lists. Also thankyou to @eburybooks for their quick efficiency in sending me the book. I do review books: for my blog, for social media and also for newspapers. Yet I struggle to get hard copies of books- looking @murdochbooks_uk for instance. I’ve asked for @tessakiros and @missfoodwise latest books but impossible. Sometimes publishers say we can send an e version. NO! Books are physical objects: the paper, the typeface the feel are all important otherwise I’ll just read a website. Also writers get paid SO little the least publishers can do is send you an actual book. Do they expect us to buy the copies? I find they’ll often send some shitty little TV cook or minor celebrity book or my particular personal horror- wellness books- but not actually something you want to review. Rant over. Not the authors fault but the publishers. #cookbook #review #publishers
Ophelias first birthday party. I made a smash cake Ophelias first birthday party. I made a smash cake: something babies have now, which means they can ‘smash’ it or plunge their face in. It was sugar free, gluten free etc. but Ophelia was rather refined while picking at it. She’s a little lady. Lots of presents, food, cakes, babies, tears and tantrums ( the latter from mum and grandma) #granfluencer
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As it’s #worldpastaday I’ve made a little reel As it’s #worldpastaday I’ve made a little reel of my few days in Firenze or Florence. It’s horrendously crowded but glowing with golden romance. At the central market you can eat the local focaccia sandwiches ‘schiacciata’ often with tripe ‘lampredotto’ (boak), or pasta with truffles. Elsewhere you can drink affogato , a small coffee with gelato, you can walk over the pontevecchio bridge, lined with glinting jewellery shops, you can visit the uffizi gallery, the painted ceilings, the cherubs, the somber and carnal portraits, you can crane your neck up to the green and cream marble stripes of the churches, you can visit the paper makers of hand marbled stationery, and at the end of the day you drink a perfect sunset negroni with aperitivo snacks then take the tram to your hotel and plan to visit again when it’s quieter. When is it quiet? January? October was rammed. #travelandfood #solotravel #florence #firenze #italy
Today 21st October is #worldrepairday. I’ve been Today 21st October is #worldrepairday. I’ve been attending a workshop @camden_fixing_factory to learn how to repair toasters, kettles, fans, irons etc. we get them from a local dump, fix them then give them to charity. Very few actually need repair: they are thrown away because they have limescale ( a real problem with London water) or are dirty or something minor.  First we do a visual inspection - what appears to be wrong with it? Then we do a connectivity test with two probes to see if there is a circuit. Then a Pat test to see if it passes. Then we plug it in: does it work? With a toaster does the press down, pop up mechanism work? Does it toast? Then we clean it thoroughly- vacuuming all crumbs and polishing so that it looks almost as good as new. This is part of a European movement called Right to Repair @r2reurope whereby fixing things not just dumping in landfill is encouraged- not just on a personal level but businesses and manufacturers too. It’s very satisfying being things back to life. Next week kettles! #righttorepairmovement #camden
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 There are different seasons for different types of truffle: at the moment, we are at the end of the black summer truffle season. At the end of this month it bbc will be the more valuable white truffle season- worth 5000 euros a kilo. This was such an interesting experience with Teo and Bianchi the dog. Then we sat down to a 4 course truffle meal. Exquisite! #Tuscany #Italy #truffles
Put truffles into a paper bag with eggs, the scent Put truffles into a paper bag with eggs, the scent will penetrate through the eggs. Then bake the eggs with a little ghee. Finally shave a little fresh truffle on to the eggs. Eat warm with crusty bread. #pisa #tuscany #truffles #foodandtravel
Gelato in the shape of a rose. So pretty. Marron g Gelato in the shape of a rose. So pretty. Marron glacé and passion fruit. Kind of a weirdo combo but wanted to try each flavour. #breakfast #pisa #gelato
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