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La regalade: un jour et une nuit à Paris

August 30, 2010 5 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

Roller blading gendarmes, paris
Roller blading gendarmes

8 euro vegetarian thali at one of the Indian restaurants 'Madras café' along the Rue du Faubourg St Denis next to the Gare du Nord, paris
8 euro vegetarian thali at one of the Indian restaurants ‘Madras café’ along the Rue du Faubourg St Denis next to the Gare du Nord.

Thursday I got an unexpected trip to Paris courtesy of the teen (blog post here and here). Arriving in the afternoon starving, we had a cheap quick Indian late lunch near the Gare du Nord. Exhausted, we went to the cinema. When I lived in Paris I spent all my time either eating, cooking or going to the flicks. Unfortunately, the quirky cinéphile taste of ‘cahiers du cinema’-educated Parisians, sometimes leads to a mistake. We saw the execrable The Girl Hunters 1963 starring Mickey Spillane, a rare case of a writer playing his own central character. 
Chocolatier Trish Deseine, an Irish woman who has performed the miraculous feat of impressing the French with her recipe books and cooking, invited us to stay the night at her place. She made me the best polenta I’ve ever had; gooey and generous topped with Parmesan and home-made pesto. We sank a couple of bottles of rosé, talked of cookbooks. Around 2 am Trish produced two tightly wrapped packets of tin foil “The dark stuff is Ghanaian” she whispered opening them carefully. Once opened, I saw it was not in fact soft drugs but teensy dolls house bars of chocolate, her own product. We inhaled it, discussing texture and flavour. Trish talks about chocolate like a wine or coffee connoisseur. She should do a workshop.

 Trish Deseine's flat overlooking the rustling trees of the park, st germain
 Trish Deseine’s flat overlooking the rustling trees of the park.
 Trish gets out the hard stuff at the end of the meal: “Now this is 74% Tanzanian”. Trish is launching her own range of chocolate at Selfridges this autumn which will roll out all over the UK. 
Crack cacao, chez trish deseine, paris
Crack cacao 
The next day we went to a fashionable bistro La Regalade near the Louvre (there’s another in the 14th arrondissement) where ‘le tout Paris’ goes. The men had perfectly coiffed hair, tans and manbags, the women were after-dinner-mint thin and there was one exquisite child in a pressed cotton frock on best restaurant behaviour. The fixed menu was 33 euros and I got a bottle of Gewurztraminer at 25 euros.
 I 'papped' the chef Bruno Doucet, la regalade, paris
 I ‘papped’ the chef Bruno Doucet. French men are effortlessly sexy aren’t they? All utter bastards though.
 A simple and creatively presented wine menu with colour codes, la regalade, paris
 A simple and creatively presented wine menu with colour codes.
 Helmets lining the cloakroom. Even businessmen are on scooters, la regaled restaurant, paris
 Helmets lining the cloakroom. Even businessmen are on scooters.
A lovely funky amuse-bouche: cornichons and onion pickles. Not home-made however. Carnivores get a big terrine of paté, we got some bread and butter., la regalade, paris
 A lovely funky amuse-bouche: cornichons and onion pickles. Not home-made however. Carnivores get a big terrine of paté, we got some bread and butter. 
lasagne de légumes confits, mozzarella di buffala, jambon cru et basilic, la regalade, paris
 I loved this: lasagne de légumes confits, mozzarella di buffala, jambon cru et basilic. Really light soft lasagne but no ham for me.
Home cured salmon with a cucumber, spring onion and ginger salad, la regalade, paris
Saumon mariné par nos soins, salade de concombres et gingembre confit aux oignons nouveaux.
Home cured salmon with a cucumber, spring onion and ginger salad. (The salad was not adequately dressed but the salmon was like butter).
la regalade, paris
 The colours of the sauce with the rascasse are so pretty, worthy of Monet ‘Les nymphéas’.
filet of scorpion fish, squid ink risotto and squid strips fried like elvers or glass eels, la regalade, paris
 Filet de rascasse à la plancha, risotto a l’encre et calamars façon pibailles: filet of scorpion fish, squid ink risotto and squid strips fried like elvers or glass eels.
Half salted cod from Brittany, cooked in a broth, with Paimpol beans in basil, la regalade, paris
 Pavé de cabillaud de Brétagne demi-sel, cuit dans un bouillon parfumé, haricots de Paimpol au basilic
Half salted cod from Brittany, cooked in a broth, with Paimpol beans in basil.
rice pudding, la regalade, paris
Next door’s rice pudding. Which I tried. You see I simply can’t behave like a normal diner in conventional restaurants anymore, I always end up talking to the tables next to me and inevitably, get to try their food. Love the presentation of this and the generous flecks of vanilla but not sure about it being cold. Bruno, my love, some like it hot!
wattwiller water from les vosges, la regalade, paris
 This water seems to be all the rage in the best restaurants.
 Choco-praliné de la Regalade, Paris
 Choco-praliné de la Regalade. Complete with Mikado stick. Mind blowingly good said the teen.
 Grand Marnier soufflé, la regalade, Paris
 Grand Marnier soufflé. Believe it or not, I waited ten minutes (too busy chatting) before photographing it, so this is a slightly deflated version.
Graffitted locks on the fence of the Francois Mitterand foot bridge
 Lipsticked Kir Au Pére Tranquille café at Les Halles, Paris
 Lipsticked Kir Au Pére Tranquille café at Les Halles

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Comments

  1. Redford

    October 29, 2010 at 1:40 pm

    That food looks unbelievable. No matter how many times you go to France there is always another place you were supposed go to or have yet to even here of. One of these day I'm going to make a weeks worth of online table reservations and eat myself sick. Maybe just a weekend. Don't think my gout could take a week of French food.

    Reply
  2. Saborosa

    November 16, 2010 at 8:03 pm

    Yup, La Regalade is probably one of the best lunch deals in Paris. And such lovely staff – we sobremesa-ed like Spaniards and the last waitress made us feel like we could have stayed there till the dinner shift clocked on.

    That thali looks great, but my favourite when I lived there was Dishny's on rue Cail – hardly a secret, but consistently good for thalis and dhosas.

    Reply
  3. Douglas Blyde

    December 30, 2010 at 7:44 pm

    Graffited locks? -Those are lovers pledges!

    Reply
  4. theundergroundrestaurant

    December 30, 2010 at 11:35 pm

    Really Douglas? How sweet!
    Also just noticed some mistakes in my post!

    Reply
  5. Douglas Blyde

    December 31, 2010 at 12:50 pm

    I've seen it done before in a town in Liguria (http://www.intoxicatingprose.com/2007/08/lovers-lock-their-intentions.html)
    All the territory covered looks wonderful. Have a happy new year!

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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Supper club dishes from Saturday: pickled beetroot Supper club dishes from Saturday: pickled beetroot eggs, cheeseboard, stracciatella & cucumber, tomato/strawberry/peashoot salad with real balsamic & spruce oil, home cured dill gravlax, smoked salmon, homemade sourdough crisp bread, potato salad with wild fennel & lots more! #supperclub #midsummer #eattherainbow (miss you @linnsoederstroem)
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My first supperclub in two years will take place t My first supperclub in two years will take place this Saturday 18th June starting at 7.30pm. Tickets are £50 byo you can book here: https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsommar-supper-club there are still a few places left. Pescetarian menu. Scandi and botanical influences. #gettingbackonmyfeet #postpandemic #smallbusinesses #supperclub #london
I recently completed the 3 day @heathostile train I recently completed the 3 day  @heathostile training course. On the last day I was kidnapped by ex-special forces for a few hours & learnt how to deal with compliance training & a hostile environment. It was one of the most interesting experiences of my life. 3 intense days of combat first aid, navigation & how to survive in a war zone. I handled short, long guns, mortars, grenades, bullets, and tourniquet & bandaged an amputee. I learnt where to sit in a car, where to hide from a bullet, where to protect myself if in a car. It was brilliant. Highly recommended for any journalists, photographers, cameramen, charity workers, paramedics going into any difficult environment say a disaster or war. The stories from the tutors & the other participants were so interesting. My piece on it out soon. Book a course: https://hostile-environment.co.uk/  They also do jungle & desert training. I’d love to join the Antarctic expedition. Anyway that’s me hooded in the front. #adventures #het #hostileenvironmenttraining #experiences #travel
Bundoran beach, Donegal. I spent a week knocking o Bundoran beach, Donegal. I spent a week knocking on doors, going to libraries, searching through graveyards for my Irish forebears. It’s really hard to find information prior to 1850. I found this in last years trip to Arbroath in Scotland. Headstones wear out, records are lost or burnt in a fire, everybody has the same name and are known by nicknames, successive children have the same first name, that usually means they died and the next one is called by the same thing. Women did have children out of wedlock, and people remarried more often than you’d think, plus families fall out & never see each other again. I learnt that my Irish great grandfather michael went to Glasgow & met a woman who came from a similar place: somewhere wild & beautiful by the sea. Then they and their children came to london. Chasing the work & the money always. Politics and economics matter for they push people around from rural to city. And now we rodgers are Londoners. #ireland #scotland #family #travel #roots
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Tullaghan, county Leitrim, Donegal, where my grea Tullaghan, county Leitrim, Donegal,  where my great great grandfather john Rodgers was a postman, then a tailor, then a pawnbroker. #irishheritage #donegal #myancestry #irish #rodgers #travel
I’ve taken down the previous post as it’s poor I’ve taken down the previous post as it’s poor timing considering what’s happened over the last 24 hours. Being British I’ve not grown up around guns. It’s interesting to be on this course and find out more about the reality of them, although my focus is learning the ‘golden triangle’ of first aid, communications and navigation. But at the same time It’s depressing how in America nothing will ever change regarding gun law. RIP.
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in June I’m having my first supper club in two y in June I’m having my first supper club in two years: here is the link to book: https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsommar-supper-club £50 18th June  Saturday night. Byo.
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Lemon drizzle cake. The trick is not to stint on t Lemon drizzle cake. The trick is not to stint on the citrus. I used 7: 2 Italian lemons (from Lidl):some ordinary lemons and some limes (18p) at Lidl. Don’t be afraid to mix and match your citrus. I also used buttermilk from @fenfarmdairy in Suffolk from their honesty shop. Last night we ate it still warm from the oven. #cake #lemondrizzle #homebaking #citrus #buttermilk
A Simple tomato, goats cheese and basil salad, spa A Simple tomato, goats cheese and basil salad, spanking fresh asparagus / fried in olive oil, season, then add a little boiling water, not too much, put on the lid, dressed with lemon zest & Parmesan, @fenfarmdairy baron bigod cheese, good bread. This is how I like to eat. Claire’s plates found at the beccles brocante. #suffolk #suffolkfood #supper #dinnerwithfriends  #vintageplates
Can’t wait to see what they will be like when th Can’t wait to see what they will be like when they are fired. All my favourite themes: gingham and scallops. Thanks to @clairebelljar for a wonderful weekend and pottery workshop. Such fun! #workingwithyourhands #playtime #creativity #ceramics #pottery #suffolk
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