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Top food destinations in Cape Town

February 24, 2014 2 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

Two beautiful ladies at the Old Biscuit Market, Cape Town 

Protea, the national flower of South Africa
Colourful utensils, at one of the shops in Woodstock.

Cape Town has many varied food traditions, Afrikaans, British, Indian, Cape Malay and of course, indigenous African, and you’ll want to stop by all of them. On this occasion I didn’t manage to try out the latter, although this may change next week when I go to Franschhoek, in the wine region, about an hour outside Cape Town.

Cape Town is hard to get a handle on, reminding me of Los Angeles, a splash of different neighbourhoods with an indistinct centre. You need a car to get around. I didn’t have one and spent a small fortune in taxis even though the exchange rate for the pound (18 to 1 at the time of writing) is excellent at the moment. Don’t get your hotel to call your taxi, they charge double, unless money is no object. I used Excite taxis (021 448 4444), the cars weren’t as swishy but the rates were good, 9 rand a kilometer. The taxi drivers were always friendly although I felt sorry for one who said he’d been on a 24 hour shift. “Isn’t that dangerous?” I ventured. “I try to take little naps between rides” he assured me. Do be careful about grabbing any old cab on the street. I did this, being told by a Capetonian that it was fine. It wasn’t. The driver seemed directionless, driving around in circles, didn’t have a meter and I started to get nervous. He stopped at a petrol station to ask another cab where to go, while I sat in the car. Apparently didn’t work, so he then stopped to ask directions from yet another taxi. This discussion took even longer, at least ten minutes. I was wondering if I should get out and make a run for it when the driver returned and said “Ok you give me 100 rand, then you get in this other taxi who will take you to your hotel and you give him 20 rand”. “Why would he do that?” I asked. I got out and asked the other driver “You are willing to take me for 20 rand?” “Yes that’s ok” he replied. Perplexed by this strangely uneven deal, I went along with it and got to my hotel safely. Never again. Always call a cab or arrange for them to pick you up. Because, the truth is, you can’t walk around, which is bloody frustrating. I don’t think this is white paranoia. You will get mugged in broad daylight.

However the good news is, eating out is a bargain. You can get excellent, world class food at extremely reasonable prices.

surfer dude barmen, Old biscuit factory, cape town
Surfer dudes, barmen at the Old Biscuit Mill Market, Cape Town.
Mango chutney, by the container, Old Biscuit Mill Market, Cape Town.
Mango chutney, by the container, Old Biscuit Mill Market, Cape Town.
The Michael Jackson of salad, Old Biscuit Mill Market, Cape Town.
The Michael Jackson of salad, Old Biscuit Mill Market, Cape Town.
Cordials by Wilde at Heart, Old Biscuit Mill, Cape Town (including Buchu, a local mint-like herb)
Cordials by Wilde at Heart, Old Biscuit Mill, Cape Town (including Buchu, a local mint-like herb)
Old Biscuit Mill food market, Cape Town.
Old Biscuit Mill food market, Cape Town.
Mr Designer Omelettes, Old Biscuit Mill, Cape Town
Mr Designer Omelettes, Old Biscuit Mill, Cape Town
Markets: The Old Biscuit Mill on Saturdays is the place. I found it vibrant, lively, with a wide range of delicious foods sold at stalls and drinks bars. There are large tables in the middle where people can sit down and eat and live music. The whole experience reminded me of the vibe of my underground farmers markets. Everyone dresses up to be seen so it’s also a fascinating people watching exercise. As a market, there a few stalls where you can buy food that isn’t cooked, some home-ware stalls and shops, great folded steel knives and chopping boards made from medical grade synthetics used for hip replacements but that feel like marble.
Also recommended: The Woodstock Exchange, 66-68 Albert Rd, Woodstock where you can visit the Lock Stock Market on Saturday mornings.
Woodstock is a cool, up and coming area, other places to check out in the vicinity include The Kitchen, ideal for lunch; this is a Cape Town institution run by Karen Dudley who has authored a couple of beautiful cookbooks. Breakfast is great at The Superette in The Woodstock Exchange. 
Cape Malay area in Cape Town, Bo Kaap.
Cape Malay area in Cape Town, Bo Kaap.
Cape Malay area in Cape Town, Bo Kaap.
Cape Malay architecture, Cape Town
Biesmiellahs, next door shop to the restaurant
Biesmiellahs, next door shop to the restaurant
Cape Malay food: this isn’t, as you might think, Malaysian food. If anything it’s Javanese or Indonese. So no peanuts. The food is similar to Indian, with curries, rice, roti, samosas, dhal, and gram flour fritters similar to bhajis but called dhaltjies, but the difference is that Cape Malay curries are sweeter with less heat, often adding dried fruit and nuts to the curries. The names are often similar with different spellings, breyani for biryani, rys for rice, except for bredie which is a kind of stew and frikkadel which are meatballs. (See my Durban/Cape Malay fusion recipe Bunny Chow with peach curry). There is also the addition of dairy, particularly custard which is seen in the frankly bizarre sounding bobotie, shepherds pie with custard anyone? (makes my Doctor Who themed menu with fish fingers and custard sound quite normal) and the more culinary conventional melktart or custard tart. The Cape Malay curries are always accompanied by a vast tray of multi-coloured sambals or atchars, cool and hot (pickles/chutneys/relishes). I’m a girl who loves a pickle, and I fell in love with the mango sambal I had at the 12 Apostles hotel so I bought a large tub in the market which wasn’t quite as good but an ok approximation (note to self, DO try this at home).
I checked out Biesmiellah, one of the oldest restaurants in Cape Town, 40 years strong, in the Muslim Bo Kaap area where they have all the picture-postcard brightly coloured houses. Biesmiellah also has a takeaway and shop next door where I tried the bollas and the koe’sister, the Cape Malay cousin to the Cooksister pastry. The Koe’sister is more doughnutty in texture, with anise flavourings, coconut on the outside and is less sweet than the syrupy Cooksister or Koeksister. The lady at Biesmiellah told me her doughnut secret, add milk and mashed potato to the dough. This way the doughnut will remain soft all day, not stiffening up as doughnuts usually do. (Again, must try at home).
To get the best Cape Malay food, you need to eat at someone’s home. Perhaps some enterprising soul will open a Cape Malay home restaurant. I’m going to be trying out some Cape Malay recipes myself, having bought the beautiful Bo Kaap cookbook. (By the way, there is no South African Amazon site so book stores are the main places to buy books. Someone told me that Amazon closed because so many deliveries went missing and couriers were too expensive that it wasn’t worth continuing).
Pouring sparkling wine at Publik, Cape Town.
Pouring sparkling wine at Publik, Cape Town.

Bree Street, not far from the Bo-Kaap area above, is another trendy foodie haunt with some really good restaurants and bars. I was taken on a little tour by Clara Bubenza, the chef from A beautifull Life in the Youngblood building (70-72 Bree St), part art gallery and part cafe. This lady, who created the first chefs school for women in Egypt, has a huge personality, and is greeted by friends wherever she goes. I was introduced to her by Greg who has been running South Africa’s first roaming pop up restaurant events Secret Eats. He’s an American who has been living in Cape Town for two years, but he’s now a central part of the food scene, partnering with innovative chefs. Both Greg and Clara were a hoot to hang with.

I ate at Birds on Bree, which was recommended to me from several different sources. The chef Kevin Mink is evidently very talented. Although my first plate was possibly over-styled for my tastes, being at heart a peasant, the flavours were sublime. Food you ponder on later and think, I can’t wait to go back. Pudding was preserved lemon icecream (MUST copy) with a spiced apple tart. Do go.
I had a drink at Publik, a meat shop and wine bar started by food blogger David Cape. I went there in the evening when the butchery wasn’t open but this took London restaurant Meat Liquor’s abattoir theme and ran with it. Behind the butchers counter and thick glass walls you can see entire hanging carcasses, all very Damian Hurst. During the day, people do their meat shopping, butchers carving prime cuts of ethically reared meat, while relaxing with a glass of wine from nearby vineyards. Perhaps this is the modern equivalent of memento mori, whereby we may contemplate death (but not ours). The service is simultaneously casual and friendly: “How about two glasses of sparkling Stellenbosch wine for 50 rand (about £2.75p) each?” suggested the barman, waving a magnum bottle. “Sold” said I.
Other Bree St. recommendations include: Bizerca Bistro, french fine dining, craft beers at AndUnion and reportedly exquisite Italian food at 95 Keerom a couple of blocks over from Bree St.
Kloof Street is another restaurant heavy area where you can look up and see Table Mountain customarily napped with a rolling cloud tablecloth. I visited The Black Sheep, only open a couple of months but packed. Headed by chef Jonathan Japha, the constantly progressing menu, chalked up on the black board, changes every day. I only had one dish because the weather was so humid (I tend to lose my appetite) on the night I went but both food and service were vibrant. Plus I’d already had late lunch at the stylish Liquorice and Lime, an enormous ciabatta style sandwich, a tramezzino with salad, surrounded by appropriately green and black interior. They also sold a fearsome two foot long twisted croissant in their bakery section.
Other recommendations in Kloof St include Caffe Milano, the bakery arm of Giorgo Nava, the Italian head chef of 95 Keerom.
Where I didn’t get to eat was at a township restaurant or home in Cape Town. Locals recommended Mzolis in Gugulethu, a nearby township, where they have African braai stalls and music. The problem for me is that the indigenous African diet is very meat based but I’m sure I could have found some local tidbits to eat. Next time.
Green Goddess dressing with avocado salad at the 12 Apostles hotel
Green Goddess dressing with avocado salad at the 12 Apostles hotel
Waitress at the 12 apostles hotel
Waitress at the 12 apostles hotel

In terms of hotel restaurants I had an elegant meal at the 12 Apostles hotel, past Camps Bay. The service was unparallelled at a beautiful location. I also had high tea there ‘Tea by the Sea’, a Victorian African experience, leopard-skin waistcoated waiters with blinding white shirts and impeccable manners, cups of rooibosch and tiers of cakes and sandwiches. But no matter how high end the restaurant, the prices are a fraction of what you’d pay in London.

…………………………
Thanks to Jeanne Horak-Druiff of Cooksister, Sonia Cabano, Clara of Beautifull Life cafe, Greg of SecretEats, chef Grant Hawthorne and particular thanks to Ishay Govender-Ypma of Food and the Fabulous for help and introductions, you couldn’t find better guides to Cape Town.

Sunbathing on the cape.
Sunbathing on the cape.

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  1. Anonymous

    February 24, 2014 at 1:28 pm

    Oh yes, Mzoli's is a must for carnivores! Pick your meats from the butcher, have them cooked on the braai, served with pap, eaten with your fingers!
    You can buy beers through the neighbours windows (mzolis dont sell alcohol, to keep the locals in business, so they don't complain about the noise!). If theres no live band, people pull up their cars, crank up the sound system, and dance the night away!

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      March 12, 2014 at 2:17 pm

      Sounds like a laugh. Tried to book a township tour of food but the guy took 4 days to reply to my email and then said there was no space! For one person! One problem with Cape Town I found, as a Londoner, is that they were very slow. Business is hard to achieve there except for a few clued up people. Cape Town is the California slow town of South Africa, whereas Jo'burg, they move fast.

      Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Got the sewing machine out last night and hemmed t Got the sewing machine out last night and hemmed the top of these toile de jouey curtains in my summer house shed. The days are lengthening a little which brightens up my mood. Self care= trying to get up and washed. Trying to leave the house once a day. Keeping my hands busy. Finding small ways to be creative. #coronaloner #sewingmachine #curtains #shedsofinstagram #sheshed #springiscoming #supperclub #stayingsane #selfcare #lockdown3
Pasta aglio olio. I’m turning into a vampire. I Pasta aglio olio. I’m turning into a vampire. I get up later and later every day. I’m living in a twilight world- dim skies, getting nothing done. Next week it’s my birthday and every year I’m at my lowest ebb just before my birthday. Lockdown on your own is tough. My motivation, my mojo has disappeared. #lockdown3 #coronaloner #pastadinner #nofilter #january2021 #januarychallenge #selfemployedwomen #single #aquarius #0degrees
On the heath on Sunday. Must. Walk. More. #coronal On the heath on Sunday. Must. Walk. More. #coronaloner
Tonight’s lockdown dinner with my bubble. Proper Tonight’s lockdown dinner with my bubble. Proper pesto alla genovese with trofie, small boiled salad potatoes, steamed green beans (good tip: steam the beans in a colander plopped on top of the potatoes or pasta), good quality pesto sauce ( mine from local microbakery @seansloaf ), good olive oil (@pomoragoodfood), torn fresh basil, a few pine nuts. This turns this student dish into a balanced meal of carbs, veg and a little protein.  It’s cold outside, I’ve lit the fire. Covid rages in Kilburn high road in north west london. The rate is 1 in 30 london wide but I feel it’s higher in this poor inner london area. We have a high BAME population who are particularly vulnerable. It’s a little bit anarchic on my high street: cars perched on kerbs waiting for hijabi women, braving pound shops and Aldi . We are all covered up now. In winter masks keep your face warm, but you have a choice between safety and being able to see. I’ve not managed to prevent the inevitable steaming up of my glasses when wearing a mask. Nothing works.  #january #londonwinter #pestopasta #pestoallagenovese #vegetarian #pasta #trofie #supperclub #covid_19 #lockdownlife #lockdown3 #bubblegang
Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Mi Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Minus Crown and king as I cannot find either. This one is made with Tonka bean. Plus homemade puff pastry (well worth the effort). According to ike delorenzo at The Atlantic:  The tonka bean, a flat, wrinkled legume from South America with an outsize flavor that the US government has declared illegal. Nonetheless, it proliferates on elite American menus. The tiniest shavings erupt in a Broceliande of transporting, mystical aromas.
The taste of the tonka bean is linked strongly to its scent. "Scents," I should say, as the tonka bean has many at once. I register the aromas of vanilla, cherry, almond, and something spicy—a bit like cinnamon. When served cold—say, in tonka bean ice cream—the taste is like a vanilla caramel with dark honey. When warm, perhaps shaved over scallops, it moves toward spiced vanilla. Additionally, the aroma of the tonka bean shavings (it's almost always shaved) is so affecting that it seems like an actual taste in the way that opium, which has no taste in the traditional sense, "tastes" like its rich, flowery smoke.  Here is the recipe: 

Tonka bean galette des rois

Serves 8
Ingredients
* 140 g caster sugar
* 125 g salted butter, softened
* 100 g ground almonds
* 2 eggs, medium
* 1 tonka bean, grated
* 2 packs ready made butter puff pastry on a roll
* 1 yolk for brushing the pastry
Instructions
* Preheat your oven to 200c.

* Blend the butter with the sugar then add the almonds. Make sure it’s well mixed. Add in the 2 eggs one at a time, then add the tonka bean.

* If using a block: divide the puff pastry into two and roll out to 5mm thick. 
* Make two circles about 15 cm’s each in diameter. Lay one circle on a silicone mat/parchment paper on a baking tray and fill with the almond cream leaving a 3 cm border around the edge. 
* Paint the border with the egg yolk. Then lay the other circle on top, sealing the edges with a fork. 
* You could then carve designs into the top. Make a little slit in the middle to let steam escape then brush the top with the egg yolk
Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. T Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. This is a vegan version. ***

Ingredients:
- 400 g box of soft tofu not silken
- 5 soaked dried shiitake mushrooms, diced, keep water
- 1 red bell pepper, finely sliced
- 400 g fresh shiitake mushroom, sliced thinly
- 400 ml vegetable stock
- 1 thumb fresh ginger, minced
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 4 tbsps groundnut or vegetable oil
- 3 tbsp fermented bean paste
- 1 or 2 small red chillies, minced or a spoonful of Chinese chilli paste
- 1 tsp heaped sichuan peppercorns, finely ground
- 2 tbsps soy or tamari sauce
- 2 tbsp cornflour in 3 tbsps water, mixed into a slurry
- 4 spring onions, finely sliced
- large pinch fresh coriander leaves

Prepare the tofu by cutting it into one inch cubes and soaking it in hot but not boiling salted water. Drain after 15 minutes.
Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms, covering them in boiling water. Leave until soft, then dice the mushrooms. Retain the mushroom soaking water and add to the vegetable stock water.
Prepare the other ingredients so they are ready to stir-fry: red bell pepper, fresh mushrooms, ginger, garlic.

Using a wok or deep frying pan, add the oil and heat to frying temperature. Add the bell peppers,fry for a couple of minutes, then add fermented bean paste, chilli paste or chillies, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sichuan pepper.
Add the mushroom/vegetable broth and simmer on high for a couple of minutes.
Carefully add the cubes of tofu, taking care not to break them too much.
Add the cornflour slurry, stirring for a couple of minutes.
Serve with rice or noodles, garnishing with spring onions or chives and or coriander leaves.  #veganuary #mapotofu #sichuanfood #tofu  #shitakemushrooms #supperclub #londonchef #msmarmitelover #ham&highcolumn #eatplants #lockdown3 #selfisolation #coronaloner #cooking #recipe #cookingfromscratch
Macaroni cheese with odds and sods from the Christ Macaroni cheese with odds and sods from the Christmas leftover cheese board. I’ve used @paxtonscheese truffled brillat-savarin and a mystery hard cheese that’s lost its label. Plus cream and topped it with samphire fried in butter. Haven’t bothered with making a roux- this is the lockdown lazy version.  #lockdownlazy #lockdown3 #supperclub #macandcheese #macaronicheese #truffledcheese #leftovers #leftovercheeseboard #londonlockdown #breakfast #coronaloner
Another thing the Japanese are brilliant at is san Another thing the Japanese are brilliant at is sandwiches. They use the softest, whitest, fluffiest bread. Their mayonnaise kewpie is gorgeous I don’t know why. Perhaps someone here can explain? Here I’ve used sourdough as it’s what I have; kosho which is a Yuzu citrus and green chilli condiment and the aforesaid kewpie Mayo to make an egg 🥚 sandwich.  I’m not a big egg fan but I suddenly had the urge. Also I’ve noticed when I eat eggs it satiates my hunger for hours. All that protein.  #sandwich #sandwiches #japanesesandwich #kewpiemayo #kosho #eggsandwich #sourdough #supperclub #cookingforone #solo #londonlife #lockdownlondon #recipe #snack #sundaysnack #sando
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Writing about tofu which I think has an unfair rep Writing about tofu which I think has an unfair reputation in this country. It’s so flexible and is a brilliant flavour sponge. Here I’m preparing my soft tofu for a Japanese dish: agedashi tofu. I first pressed it in a clean tea towel with a weight on top to firm it up a bit but not too much. Then I dusted it with cornflour and I will deep fry it in oil. Then I will serve it in a broth of dashi/mirin and tamari sauce, sprinkled with finely chopped spring onions and togarashi pepper from Japan. I would usually add some finely mandolined daikon radish but couldn’t find any. It’s a subtle dish of texture: soft yet crispy. After Christmas I’m desperate for light zingy fresh flavoured food. #supperclub #tofu #vegan #vegetarian #agedashitofu #newyearsday #cookingagain #lunch #asian #japanesefood
Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holdi Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holding on...
#happynewyear #happynewyear2021 #supperclub #hootenanny
Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg includi Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg including mashed swede with cheese and butter. I put pomegranate seeds with my sprouts, and cooked my carrots in marmalade ( worked v well), the mushroom wreath fell apart as I was transferring it to a tray 😤, roast potatoes and parsnips, then a cheese spread with fruit nuts, quince cheese (homemade), Chocs @lindtuk 😍 @guylian_uk @disaronno_official @baileysofficial @taylorsportwine and Brazil nuts. Plus a pavlova wreath ready to be topped with whipped cream and persimmons. 
#christmasdinner #vegetarianchristmas #vegetarianchristmasdinner #supperclub #londonchristmas #liqueurs #christmasspread #grazing #cheeseboard #port #pavlova
Christmas has started! Home-cured smoked beetroot Christmas has started!  Home-cured smoked beetroot and aquavit salmon with homemade blinis, creme fraiche, dill, Prosecco.  The fire is lit 🔥, the tree is up, 🎄the presents 🎁 are wrapped, we have a #brexit deal- a Christmas miracle. Peace and harmony. #christmas #christmasinengland #homemade #christmaseve #blinis #smokedsalmon #prosecco🍾 #londonchristmas
Done some doorscaping, the latest trend in Christm Done some doorscaping, the latest trend in Christmas decorating. It might also cheer up passersby. #christmas #christmasdecor #doorscaping #doorsofinstagram #londonchristmas #doorwreath #doordecor #doorsoftheworld #doordecoration #exteriors #london #supperclub #covidchristmas
Look at my gorgeous Nordic pine Christmas tree 🎄 from @pinesandneedles with some family ornaments and beautiful foodie ornaments from @gisela_graham  it’s 7 foot high and no drop. My parents brought over the candle lights. I’ve also used paper ornaments (apples and pears cut from maps) from @dionne_leonard which I first commissioned for a supper club.  #christmas #christmastree #christmasdecor #foodiedecorations #glassbaubles #supperclub #christmasinlondon
More #fbmarketplacefinds I find meeting the seller More #fbmarketplacefinds I find meeting the sellers interesting. It’s often about moving on whether through death, a change of circumstances, moving country, loss of a job. Today I visited a gorgeously renovated Edwardian house where the owners, an antique dealer & a master decorator had died with 18 months of each other of cancer.  The sister was there emptying the house, an incredibly painful experience. The husband who died was an expert in putting up lincrusta wallpaper which I’ve pictured here. All that craftsmanship and knowledge lost now.  The piece I got on Sunday, the teal chinoiserie cabinet, was from a Spanish guy returning to Spain. He’d lost his job as a hotel manager, the hotel, a big one, has now closed. The marble coffee table and arepas grill was from a Spanish couple who’d had a restaurant here for 40 years. They are now returning to Spain. Other slides: green Edwardian fireplace tiles, William Morris wallpaper, 2 small scalloped coffee tables, a knife and fork cutlery hook set.  A fireplace for my bedroom if I can find someone to put it in. #lockdownstories #covidstories #movingon #decor #interiors #bargains #secondhandstyle #edwardianstyle #williammorris #tiles #wallpaper #scallopededge #teal #chinoiserie #whitemarble #vintage #kitchenalia #supperclubrefurb #london #lincrustawallpaper
Another #fbmarketplace find £30. I can’t afford Another #fbmarketplace find £30. I can’t afford proper chinoiserie so I make do with fakes. The gradual doing up of my flat proceeds apace. Need to start on main bedroom. Looking for a storage ottoman (velvet?) bench to turn into a horizontal filing cabinet.  Any ideas? Above is a map of london based on the A to Z map which a minicab office was tossing out. Remember when we all carried mini A to Z books in our handbags? Before google maps? #nocrushedvelvet #chinoiserie #supperclubrefurb #londonapartment #londonflat #norfweezy #decor #organising #storage #interiors
My new/old rise and fall light over the dining tab My new/old rise and fall light over the dining table. Found for £50 on #fbmarketplace  but originally from @thefrenchhouse.net_ one of my favourite shops. Every day, a little more progress. #supperclubrefurb #supperclub #londonflat #interiors #lighting #riseandfalllights #lightingisimportant #frenchstyle #vintagestyle #rusticstyle #turquoise #diningtabledecor
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Still working on my glass cupboard. I’ve hung up Still working on my glass cupboard. I’ve hung up all my wine bottle openers and cork screws. My favourite is the zigzag bottom left. If you find them at a flea market in France, if you are lucky you may get it for around 35 euros.  #supperclub #londonflat #londoninteriors #corkscrews #frenchkitchenalia #zigzag #tirebouchon #oakcupboard #diy #diyprojects
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