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A diamond wedding anniversary in Provence: love and recipes

September 11, 2019 2 Comments Filed Under: Food, France, French, Lifestyle, Recipes, Supper clubs, Uncategorized, Vegetarian

  • Diamond wedding diner en blanc, L'escalet beach, France pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

I spent five weeks in France this summer at my parent’s house near Port Grimaud in Provence, Var. Sadly, this is the last time as they are selling the house this autumn. Having a second home is a brilliant fantasy but the reality is you spend your whole time fixing, repairing and cleaning. My parents are now nearing their mid-80’s and they can’t continue.

I’ve been going virtually every summer since 2005. When I look back at my photos, they are repetitively beautiful: the full moon in a dark starry sky, provencal markets, cocktails by the pool, sunset at the beach, plates and rusty metal things from Jas de Robert, chestnuts and mushrooms in autumn, fireworks from the terrace, leafy yet regimented grapevines that will be squeezed into pink and grey wines, rambling family dinners, frogs in the pool, bloated blinking toads in my bedroom, wasps in my car engine, snakes dropping from pastel shutters, boars and cork oaks, the gleaming white yachts of Saint Tropez.

  • Var, Provence pix: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

My mum hates it. She hates the weather, the French, the terrible restaurants, the expense, the traffic, the isolation. She’s very deaf and although when she was younger she was fluent in French, it’s difficult for her now.

My dad loves it. He watches football on the giant telly. He likes the English ex-pat blokes down there (in the winter it’s all men), the music, the heat. As he eats meat, he likes the restaurants too.

  • Saint Tropez bay, Var, Provence pix: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

I lived there for a year in the mid-noughties, putting my kid into the local French comprehensive. It was miserable as a single mother. In winter there is no work, everything is shut: the restaurants, the bars, the shops. The French aren’t that friendly, even if you do speak fluent French. Most of the English ex-pats are criminals and alcoholics. Everybody is on the run. From England, from child maintenance and children, from the law, from drizzly northern cities, from ordinary unglamorous British lives. Every oddball, renegade, chancer and fantasist lives down there on the Cote d’Azure. Everybody has a past, and nobody wants to acknowledge it.

It was so lonely, I spent all day watching made-for-TV movies and drinking rosé. Rosé quaffing would start at 11am, after the mums had done the school run, and the shop. We’d meet in the cafe opposite Leclerc in Cogolin and start on the apero. The women, all married, would bitch about their husbands and wonder aloud about plastic surgery. God it was boring. After a few months of this, my kidneys started to hurt.

As a Londoner I found it difficult to live in a small community. Living in a city of eight million people, I’m used to a certain amount of anonymity. During the off-season months, I was part of a community of around 50 people. Fifty bored people who gossiped viciously about each other and of course, about me, the weirdo single mum who read books and didn’t drink much.

  • jas de robert, Provence, Var pix: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

Every Sunday morning I’d visit the Jas de Robert brocante market, the highlight of my week. It’s where I gathered my collection of antique French kitchenware. One thrilling morning Johnny Depp turned up with his kids. My daughter and her friends shook his hand. He waswas very charming and friendly, and interested in meeting other bilingual children. The entirety of Port Grimaud knew about this within the hour. Nothing is private in a small community.

If I lived there today, it wouldn’t be so bad, at least I’d have the internet, although it never works consistently. Power cuts and mud slides are also regular events. It’s a strange place- somehow simultaneously rural and built-up.

  • Diamond wedding picnic on the beach, Provence, Var pix: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

This year the outstanding event was my parents 60th wedding anniversary. Perhaps they will get a letter from the Queen. Although the big celebration will be in October, the actual date was in July. I decided to host a ‘diner en blanc’ on the beach.

  • live music at L'escalet beach, Provence, Var pix: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

Every Monday night throughout the summer there is live music, free, at l’Escalet beach. This is a particularly unspoilt place, unlike some of the beaches further up the coast which are actually builder’s sand, rough and yellow, plonked next to the sea. At l’Escalet, the water is clear and the band play backlit by the setting sun, framed by rocks, gentle waves and boats on the horizon. It’s absolutely gorgeous.

  • beach picnic, Provence pic: Kerstin rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

My mum didn’t want a fuss so we had to do it secretly. My sister sneaked the chairs and tables into my van, plus vases of flowers, lanterns for candles, proper white china plates and bowls, snowy table linen and real glasses. Somehow my parents didn’t realise that half their furniture was missing from their villa.

  • diamond wedding beach picnic, Provence, Var, pix: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

My sister-in-law Bernie, who is a domestic science teacher and a fine cook, and I made the food: potato salad with creme fraiche and fennel flowers; stuffed vegetables; melon and smoked salmon salad; beluga lentil salad with feta; watermelon, mint and feta ‘pizza’; caponata (so much nicer than ratatouille); heart shaped cheeses, white chocolate and limoncello cake and a giant fruit salad. My brother hoisted a magnum of champagne.

  • Saint tropez pix: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

My friend Begs helped me set up on the beach so everything was ready when my parents turned up. The French loved it too, congratulating us as they descended to the rocky bay, ‘felicitations’ and ‘bon apetit’. I also heard one couple say ‘they have class, we can’t compete’. One man wearing white linen from head to toe asked to be invited.

  • saint tropez and Msmarmitelover pix: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover.com

As the weeks went on, more and more tables were set up. It became a mixture of Glyndebourne and Glastonbury. A beautiful setting for a diamond wedding anniversary. Here are some of the dishes we made:

stuffed peppers pic: Kerstin rodgers/msmarmitelover.com
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5 from 1 vote

Stuffed peppers

This sounds a bit 70s Cranks style veggie food, but carefully cooked and presented, is vibrant and tasty.
Course Vegetarian mains,, Vegetarian sides
Cuisine Provencale,, South of France
Keyword Provencale cooking, Stuffed Vegetables, Vegetarian dishes
Serves 6

Ingredients

  • 200 g rice, couscous, bulghar wheat, You can buy quick cook or packaged to shorten cooking time
  • 400 ml vegetable stock if making rice or bulghar wheat and 200ml for couscous
  • pinch saffron, ground finely in a pestle and mortar
  • 4 tbsps Olive oil
  • 4 shallots, finely chopped
  • 4 cloves garlic, finely minced
  • bunch flat leaf parsley
  • sea salt
  • 2 preserved lemons, finely chopped
  • large handful apricots, roughly chopped, Optional: marinate/soak in sherrry
  • handful pinenuts
  • 50 ml olive oil
  • 6 yellow, orange or red peppers whole, cut off the tops, keep as hats, remove inner seeds and pith

Instructions

  • Cook the grain you are going to stuff the vegetables with, using the vegetable stock. In fact slightly undercook it.
  • Mix the cooked grain with the saffron
  • Heat a frying pan with the olive oil
  • Add the shallots, garlic to the olive oil, fry until golden.
  • Preheat the oven to 180C
  • Mix this with the grain, the preserved lemons, parsley, the apricots, the pine nuts, the salt.
  • Put the peppers into an oiled baking tin, remove the hats and stuff the peppers with the mixture.
  • Add some olive oil to the peppers, replace the hats and bake for 40 minutes
  • Remove from the oven and serve.
caponata pic: Kerstin rodgers/msmarmitelover.com
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5 from 1 vote

Caponata

A good ratatouille is a rare thing. It's often slimy in texture. I prefer the Sicilian caponata, an agro-dolce sweet and sour riff on the same mediterranean vegetables. This is inspired by Claudia Roden's recipe. The artichokes are optional but god I'm passionate about them. I'd stick them in everything.
Course Picnic dish, Vegetarian mains,, Vegetarian sides
Cuisine Sicilian
Keyword Caponata, Mediterrannean, Picnic food, ratatouille
Serves 8

Ingredients

  • 100 ml olive oil
  • 1 brown onion, sliced
  • 2 aubergines, medium, sliced
  • 2 red peppers, cored, sliced
  • 1 yellow peppers, cored, sliced
  • 3 bay leaves
  • 2 cloves garlic, crushed
  • 100 g olives, pitted, green or black
  • 3 tbsp capers
  • 3 tbsp sherry vinegar
  • sea salt, to taste
  • jar roasted or marinated artichoke hearts, to garnish
  • handful fresh basil leaves, to garnish

Instructions

  • Prepare the vegetables. Put a deep frying pan with the olive oil on medium heat on the stove
  • Fry the onions until soft, then add the aubergine and peppers, until soft, the edges caramelised.
  • Add the bay leaves, garlic, olives, capers
  • Add the vinegar and sea salt to taste
  • Garnish with artichokes, basil leaves
watermelon pizza pic: Kerstin rodgers/msmarmitelover.com
Print
5 from 1 vote

Watermelon, feta and mint ‘pizza’

Course Canapes, Starters
Cuisine Vegetarian
Keyword Watermelon

Ingredients

  • 1 watermelon, cut into 2cm thick triangles
  • 100 g feta cheese, cut into squares
  • handful fresh mint leaves

Instructions

  • Assemble the watermelon wedges as pictured.

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Comments

  1. Margo

    September 23, 2019 at 4:11 pm

    5 stars
    To say the French are not friendly is an understatement. Do they think it is cool? Or do they really feel so miserable?
    We drove home and nearing Calais someone smiled at me and I knew they were not French. Give me Italy every time.

    Reply

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  1. A weekend at Little Cote House, Wiltshire says:
    October 23, 2019 at 4:14 pm

    […] may recall that my parent’s had their diamond wedding anniversary earlier this year in Provence. The celebrations aren’t finished! Sixty guests, one for every […]

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Got the sewing machine out last night and hemmed t Got the sewing machine out last night and hemmed the top of these toile de jouie curtains in my summer house shed. The days are lengthening a little which brightens up my mood. Self care= trying to get up and washed. Trying to leave the house once a day. Keeping my hands busy. Finding small ways to be creative. #coronaloner #sewingmachine #curtains #shedsofinstagram #sheshed #springiscoming #supperclub #stayingsane #selfcare #lockdown3
Pasta aglio olio. I’m turning into a vampire. I Pasta aglio olio. I’m turning into a vampire. I get up later and later every day. I’m living in a twilight world- dim skies, getting nothing done. Next week it’s my birthday and every year I’m at my lowest ebb just before my birthday. Lockdown on your own is tough. My motivation, my mojo has disappeared. #lockdown3 #coronaloner #pastadinner #nofilter #january2021 #januarychallenge #selfemployedwomen #single #aquarius #0degrees
On the heath on Sunday. Must. Walk. More. #coronal On the heath on Sunday. Must. Walk. More. #coronaloner
Tonight’s lockdown dinner with my bubble. Proper Tonight’s lockdown dinner with my bubble. Proper pesto alla genovese with trofie, small boiled salad potatoes, steamed green beans (good tip: steam the beans in a colander plopped on top of the potatoes or pasta), good quality pesto sauce ( mine from local microbakery @seansloaf ), good olive oil (@pomoragoodfood), torn fresh basil, a few pine nuts. This turns this student dish into a balanced meal of carbs, veg and a little protein.  It’s cold outside, I’ve lit the fire. Covid rages in Kilburn high road in north west london. The rate is 1 in 30 london wide but I feel it’s higher in this poor inner london area. We have a high BAME population who are particularly vulnerable. It’s a little bit anarchic on my high street: cars perched on kerbs waiting for hijabi women, braving pound shops and Aldi . We are all covered up now. In winter masks keep your face warm, but you have a choice between safety and being able to see. I’ve not managed to prevent the inevitable steaming up of my glasses when wearing a mask. Nothing works.  #january #londonwinter #pestopasta #pestoallagenovese #vegetarian #pasta #trofie #supperclub #covid_19 #lockdownlife #lockdown3 #bubblegang
Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Mi Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Minus Crown and king as I cannot find either. This one is made with Tonka bean. Plus homemade puff pastry (well worth the effort). According to ike delorenzo at The Atlantic:  The tonka bean, a flat, wrinkled legume from South America with an outsize flavor that the US government has declared illegal. Nonetheless, it proliferates on elite American menus. The tiniest shavings erupt in a Broceliande of transporting, mystical aromas.
The taste of the tonka bean is linked strongly to its scent. "Scents," I should say, as the tonka bean has many at once. I register the aromas of vanilla, cherry, almond, and something spicy—a bit like cinnamon. When served cold—say, in tonka bean ice cream—the taste is like a vanilla caramel with dark honey. When warm, perhaps shaved over scallops, it moves toward spiced vanilla. Additionally, the aroma of the tonka bean shavings (it's almost always shaved) is so affecting that it seems like an actual taste in the way that opium, which has no taste in the traditional sense, "tastes" like its rich, flowery smoke.  Here is the recipe: 

Tonka bean galette des rois

Serves 8
Ingredients
* 140 g caster sugar
* 125 g salted butter, softened
* 100 g ground almonds
* 2 eggs, medium
* 1 tonka bean, grated
* 2 packs ready made butter puff pastry on a roll
* 1 yolk for brushing the pastry
Instructions
* Preheat your oven to 200c.

* Blend the butter with the sugar then add the almonds. Make sure it’s well mixed. Add in the 2 eggs one at a time, then add the tonka bean.

* If using a block: divide the puff pastry into two and roll out to 5mm thick. 
* Make two circles about 15 cm’s each in diameter. Lay one circle on a silicone mat/parchment paper on a baking tray and fill with the almond cream leaving a 3 cm border around the edge. 
* Paint the border with the egg yolk. Then lay the other circle on top, sealing the edges with a fork. 
* You could then carve designs into the top. Make a little slit in the middle to let steam escape then brush the top with the egg yolk
Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. T Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. This is a vegan version. ***

Ingredients:
- 400 g box of soft tofu not silken
- 5 soaked dried shiitake mushrooms, diced, keep water
- 1 red bell pepper, finely sliced
- 400 g fresh shiitake mushroom, sliced thinly
- 400 ml vegetable stock
- 1 thumb fresh ginger, minced
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 4 tbsps groundnut or vegetable oil
- 3 tbsp fermented bean paste
- 1 or 2 small red chillies, minced or a spoonful of Chinese chilli paste
- 1 tsp heaped sichuan peppercorns, finely ground
- 2 tbsps soy or tamari sauce
- 2 tbsp cornflour in 3 tbsps water, mixed into a slurry
- 4 spring onions, finely sliced
- large pinch fresh coriander leaves

Prepare the tofu by cutting it into one inch cubes and soaking it in hot but not boiling salted water. Drain after 15 minutes.
Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms, covering them in boiling water. Leave until soft, then dice the mushrooms. Retain the mushroom soaking water and add to the vegetable stock water.
Prepare the other ingredients so they are ready to stir-fry: red bell pepper, fresh mushrooms, ginger, garlic.

Using a wok or deep frying pan, add the oil and heat to frying temperature. Add the bell peppers,fry for a couple of minutes, then add fermented bean paste, chilli paste or chillies, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sichuan pepper.
Add the mushroom/vegetable broth and simmer on high for a couple of minutes.
Carefully add the cubes of tofu, taking care not to break them too much.
Add the cornflour slurry, stirring for a couple of minutes.
Serve with rice or noodles, garnishing with spring onions or chives and or coriander leaves.  #veganuary #mapotofu #sichuanfood #tofu  #shitakemushrooms #supperclub #londonchef #msmarmitelover #ham&highcolumn #eatplants #lockdown3 #selfisolation #coronaloner #cooking #recipe #cookingfromscratch
Macaroni cheese with odds and sods from the Christ Macaroni cheese with odds and sods from the Christmas leftover cheese board. I’ve used @paxtonscheese truffled brillat-savarin and a mystery hard cheese that’s lost its label. Plus cream and topped it with samphire fried in butter. Haven’t bothered with making a roux- this is the lockdown lazy version.  #lockdownlazy #lockdown3 #supperclub #macandcheese #macaronicheese #truffledcheese #leftovers #leftovercheeseboard #londonlockdown #breakfast #coronaloner
Another thing the Japanese are brilliant at is san Another thing the Japanese are brilliant at is sandwiches. They use the softest, whitest, fluffiest bread. Their mayonnaise kewpie is gorgeous I don’t know why. Perhaps someone here can explain? Here I’ve used sourdough as it’s what I have; kosho which is a Yuzu citrus and green chilli condiment and the aforesaid kewpie Mayo to make an egg 🥚 sandwich.  I’m not a big egg fan but I suddenly had the urge. Also I’ve noticed when I eat eggs it satiates my hunger for hours. All that protein.  #sandwich #sandwiches #japanesesandwich #kewpiemayo #kosho #eggsandwich #sourdough #supperclub #cookingforone #solo #londonlife #lockdownlondon #recipe #snack #sundaysnack #sando
Agedashi tofu for New Year’s Day. With a vegan d Agedashi tofu for New Year’s Day. With a vegan dashi stock, it’s perfect for veganuary. How to make dashi: put a piece of kombu seaweed in water. Soak for half an hour then simmer for half an hour (don’t let it boil). Then mix 2 cups of dashi with 2 tbsps of mirin and 2 of soy sauce.  For the tofu: press soft tofu with weights for half an hour, then cut into cubes. Dust all over with cornflour.  Then deep fry the tofu cubes in 180C veg oil until they float. Set aside to drain, then place say 3 cubes in small bowl. Pour the sauce around and top with spring onion and daikon and togarashi 7 spice.  #easypeasyvegan #veganuary #agedashitofu #tofu #japaneseveganrecipe #newyearsday #freshstart #supperclub #londonsupperclub #msmarmitelover #visforvegan #recipe
Writing about tofu which I think has an unfair rep Writing about tofu which I think has an unfair reputation in this country. It’s so flexible and is a brilliant flavour sponge. Here I’m preparing my soft tofu for a Japanese dish: agedashi tofu. I first pressed it in a clean tea towel with a weight on top to firm it up a bit but not too much. Then I dusted it with cornflour and I will deep fry it in oil. Then I will serve it in a broth of dashi/mirin and tamari sauce, sprinkled with finely chopped spring onions and togarashi pepper from Japan. I would usually add some finely mandolined daikon radish but couldn’t find any. It’s a subtle dish of texture: soft yet crispy. After Christmas I’m desperate for light zingy fresh flavoured food. #supperclub #tofu #vegan #vegetarian #agedashitofu #newyearsday #cookingagain #lunch #asian #japanesefood
Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holdi Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holding on...
#happynewyear #happynewyear2021 #supperclub #hootenanny
Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg includi Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg including mashed swede with cheese and butter. I put pomegranate seeds with my sprouts, and cooked my carrots in marmalade ( worked v well), the mushroom wreath fell apart as I was transferring it to a tray 😤, roast potatoes and parsnips, then a cheese spread with fruit nuts, quince cheese (homemade), Chocs @lindtuk 😍 @guylian_uk @disaronno_official @baileysofficial @taylorsportwine and Brazil nuts. Plus a pavlova wreath ready to be topped with whipped cream and persimmons. 
#christmasdinner #vegetarianchristmas #vegetarianchristmasdinner #supperclub #londonchristmas #liqueurs #christmasspread #grazing #cheeseboard #port #pavlova
Christmas has started! Home-cured smoked beetroot Christmas has started!  Home-cured smoked beetroot and aquavit salmon with homemade blinis, creme fraiche, dill, Prosecco.  The fire is lit 🔥, the tree is up, 🎄the presents 🎁 are wrapped, we have a #brexit deal- a Christmas miracle. Peace and harmony. #christmas #christmasinengland #homemade #christmaseve #blinis #smokedsalmon #prosecco🍾 #londonchristmas
Done some doorscaping, the latest trend in Christm Done some doorscaping, the latest trend in Christmas decorating. It might also cheer up passersby. #christmas #christmasdecor #doorscaping #doorsofinstagram #londonchristmas #doorwreath #doordecor #doorsoftheworld #doordecoration #exteriors #london #supperclub #covidchristmas
Look at my gorgeous Nordic pine Christmas tree 🎄 from @pinesandneedles with some family ornaments and beautiful foodie ornaments from @gisela_graham  it’s 7 foot high and no drop. My parents brought over the candle lights. I’ve also used paper ornaments (apples and pears cut from maps) from @dionne_leonard which I first commissioned for a supper club.  #christmas #christmastree #christmasdecor #foodiedecorations #glassbaubles #supperclub #christmasinlondon
More #fbmarketplacefinds I find meeting the seller More #fbmarketplacefinds I find meeting the sellers interesting. It’s often about moving on whether through death, a change of circumstances, moving country, loss of a job. Today I visited a gorgeously renovated Edwardian house where the owners, an antique dealer & a master decorator had died with 18 months of each other of cancer.  The sister was there emptying the house, an incredibly painful experience. The husband who died was an expert in putting up lincrusta wallpaper which I’ve pictured here. All that craftsmanship and knowledge lost now.  The piece I got on Sunday, the teal chinoiserie cabinet, was from a Spanish guy returning to Spain. He’d lost his job as a hotel manager, the hotel, a big one, has now closed. The marble coffee table and arepas grill was from a Spanish couple who’d had a restaurant here for 40 years. They are now returning to Spain. Other slides: green Edwardian fireplace tiles, William Morris wallpaper, 2 small scalloped coffee tables, a knife and fork cutlery hook set.  A fireplace for my bedroom if I can find someone to put it in. #lockdownstories #covidstories #movingon #decor #interiors #bargains #secondhandstyle #edwardianstyle #williammorris #tiles #wallpaper #scallopededge #teal #chinoiserie #whitemarble #vintage #kitchenalia #supperclubrefurb #london #lincrustawallpaper
Another #fbmarketplace find £30. I can’t afford Another #fbmarketplace find £30. I can’t afford proper chinoiserie so I make do with fakes. The gradual doing up of my flat proceeds apace. Need to start on main bedroom. Looking for a storage ottoman (velvet?) bench to turn into a horizontal filing cabinet.  Any ideas? Above is a map of london based on the A to Z map which a minicab office was tossing out. Remember when we all carried mini A to Z books in our handbags? Before google maps? #nocrushedvelvet #chinoiserie #supperclubrefurb #londonapartment #londonflat #norfweezy #decor #organising #storage #interiors
My new/old rise and fall light over the dining tab My new/old rise and fall light over the dining table. Found for £50 on #fbmarketplace  but originally from @thefrenchhouse.net_ one of my favourite shops. Every day, a little more progress. #supperclubrefurb #supperclub #londonflat #interiors #lighting #riseandfalllights #lightingisimportant #frenchstyle #vintagestyle #rusticstyle #turquoise #diningtabledecor
Two vegetarian meal kits, laksa and ramen, from @k Two vegetarian meal kits, laksa and ramen, from @kit.eats.uk. Took only a couple of minutes to cook(see stories) and very good. I’m trying a few meal kits of late to see how hospitality has adapted to the great reset. As a cook I’ve always thought why would I need these but now I get it: it’s like going to a restaurant- the pleasure of food prepared by someone else. Getting jolted off of your normal repertoire, so it’s teaching cooking too.  #mealkits #vegetarian #homecooked #hospitality #covid #takeawayfood #foodpackaging #laksa #ramen #supperclubchef
Still working on my glass cupboard. I’ve hung up Still working on my glass cupboard. I’ve hung up all my wine bottle openers and cork screws. My favourite is the zigzag bottom left. If you find them at a flea market in France, if you are lucky you may get it for around 35 euros.  #supperclub #londonflat #londoninteriors #corkscrews #frenchkitchenalia #zigzag #tirebouchon #oakcupboard #diy #diyprojects
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