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December 31, 2008 3 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

Reading the cookery writer David Lebovitz’ description of cooking in his minute ‘cuisine americaine’ in his Paris apartment reminds me of the tiny little kitchen in my Parisian flat, not much bigger than a chambre de bonne (maid’s room) in the 20th arrondissement where I lived for 6 years.
Sloping roof, a chipped sink, barely enough room for a fridge. I only had a two ring camping gaz stove and a combination microwave. Desperate for a garden or some outside space, my teenager’s father and I used to barbeque on the little fireplace. I remember on a hot July day, grilling fresh sardines with mint leaves and swigging vino verde, hovering by the rather grand marble mantelpiece.
We grew herbs in the box perched outside the window overshadowed by the terrible ‘vis à vis’ view. ‘Overlooked’ would be an understated English term for it. I knew everything about my neighbour opposite: when he was alone, the joyful moment when he found a girlfriend, the sadness when she left, his routine, the time he got up, when he shaved or bathed, when he got home from work. The veritable metro/boulot/dodo. Life in Paris is not all romance. And yet we never exchanged a word.
One night, the floor below us, we heard some screaming. Looking down, we saw with alarm that a lady was trying to jump out of her kitchen window. Her husband was holding her back. She was five floors up. (1)
Later that year, while squeezed into the two person lift, we met the husband. (It’s hard to avoid someones glance in that close proximity). He informed us that his wife had jumped in front of a metro at Porte de Lilas, scene of Serge Gainsbourg’s classic song of the dreary quotidienne ‘Le Poinçonneur de lilas’.

I cooked some pretty good meals in that kitchen nonetheless. We dazzled our Parisian friends with home-made pasta, gratins, cassoulets (without meat) and something they knew nothing about: Indian food. We did discover some authentic Tamil Nadu restaurants down the street to the right hand side of Gard du Nord, on the Rue du Faubourg St-Denis, but in general Indian food in France is just wrong. The French try to turn it into a formal, course by course, meal.

Other favourite haunts included:
  •  the Arabic cafés on Avenue de Ménilmontant, where they served sweet fresh mint leaf tea with a sprinkling of pine nuts, now a favourite drink at home 
  • Chartier; the food is not great but very cheap. The Art Nouveau room is glorious and the waiters are delightfully rude, scrawling your bill on the paper tablecloths. 
  • Au pied de cochon, in Les Halles, another beautiful interior, but being mid-range in price, I only went there when my mother took me.

Most of my friends were French but I had one American girl friend who taught me, in addition, how to cook Mexican food with a measure of accuracy.

(1) Suicide statistics are pretty bad in Paris. Especially for the Japanese. Interesting article on ‘altruistic’ suicide here.

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Comments

  1. caroline

    January 2, 2009 at 5:34 pm

    Fascinating xxx

    Reply
  2. foodrambler

    January 4, 2009 at 8:32 pm

    You make life in Paris sound so romantic and tragic.

    Did you ever go to Le Villaret?

    Thanks for taking a look at my blog. I’m not sure about the veggie options at el rincon quiteno, but I guess I was too dazzled by the meat on the menu. Will have to go back there and see.

    Reply
  3. MsMarmitelover

    February 1, 2009 at 12:52 pm

    hi food rambler, how is it that i’ve only just seen your comment.
    What is Le villaret?

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

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msmarmitelover

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Apple rose blossom tarts with rose jam. Rose Appl Apple rose blossom tarts with rose jam.  Rose Apple Blossom Tarts

Serves 8

Equipment: 
Microwave
Cupcake or muffin tin

I use a red-skinned apple to make these, to get a hint of blush at the edges of the ‘petals’.

Ingredients:
4 Pink Lady or Royal Gala apples, cored, cut into quarters, sliced thinly into half moons
1 lemon, squeezed
1 pack all butter readymade puff pastry 320g, on a roll, cut into 8 strips about 6 cms long
100g of melted butter
1/2 jar of rose jam
1 or 2 tbsp cinnamon or cardamom, ground 
Pinch maldon salt
2 or 3 tbsp icing sugar

Instructions

Prepare a bowl of acidulated water (cold water with lemon juice) to prevent browning.
Core the apples, and cut them in quarters. Slice thinly into half-moons (a mandolin is useful for this). 
Put them into a large bowl of cold water with the lemon.
Microwave the bowl of sliced apples for 5 minutes until soft enough to bend slightly but not cook them.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
Roll out the puff pastry. Divide into 8 sections by cutting the roll into quarters then halving each quarter. You will end up with 8 approximately 6cm strips.
Brush the strip with melted butter then paint with a layer of rose jam. You can then dust with either ground cinnamon or cardamom.
Lay the apple slices along the top of the pastry strip, overlapping them. Fold up the bottom half of the pastry strip to make an pleat with the skin side of the apple half moon poking over the top.
Roll up the folded pastry strips until they look like a rose made of apple at the top
Place ‘rose’ side up, in a buttered cupcake tin
Repeat until all are done and bake for 20 -30 minutes.
Using a tea strainer or small sieve, sprinkle with icing sugar.
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