• Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Snapchat
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

MsMarmiteLover

  • Food
    • Recipes
    • Vegetarian
    • Vegan
  • Travel
    • France
    • Italy
    • Spain
    • UK
  • Wine
  • Gardens
  • Supperclubs/Events
  • About
    • Press
    • Books
  • Shop
    • Cart

Russian winter

November 12, 2010 3 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

I don’t know anything about Russian food. But near to the anniversary of the revolution, it seemed like a good opportunity to put myself to the test and attempt to come up with a Russian menu. To overcome this minor handicap, I enlisted of a fellow food blogger, the beguilingly beautiful food anthropologist Katrina Kolleagava
Together we visited Russian restaurant Bob Bob Ricard in London’s Soho. We met with owner Leonid, and got the grand tour. This restaurant is an absolute must visit, for the decor alone. The walls are papered with hand-painted Japanese book paper. Upstairs you sit in comfortable booths with a brass button you can press to call for champagne. Downstairs is even more bizarre: it’s reminiscent of the inside of a railway carriage, perhaps the Orient Express, with brass fittings, small reading lights and coppery champagne buckets attached to each table. The attentive staff look like extras from the movie ‘Brazil’, slightly odd, with asymetric hair cuts, jutting slavic cheek bones, tightly bound in tailored turquoise. Time shifts at Bob Bob Ricard… one feels as if one is on the altered reality of a movie set, I loved it. 
Leonid with their most expensive wine, 1.5k. The mark up on wines is very small at Bob Bob Ricard.
The gorgeous bathrooms with another hand-painted wall paper.
We tried a selection of dishes: quails eggs garnished with truffle; cucumber pickles; caviar and blinis; delicate little pelmeni dumplings. Leonid pressed ice cold vodka onto us, the best quality. I drank at least five glasses and had absolutely no hangover the next day.
Our next stop was a Russian shop ‘Cmak’ in Turnpike Lane. There, guided by Katrina, I bought Russian sunflower seeds (a popular snack), salmon caviar, pickled tomatoes, tins of sprat paté, a red Georgian sauce, sour cream and cottage cheese (quite different to ours, thicker, sourer) and cute retro Russian chocolates. 

Third stop was Stanmore, the end of the Jubilee line. It’s not far away from Kilburn, but feels like another world, countrified surburbia with enormous houses in leafy lanes. I visited the wife of a Russian oligarch to borrow a memento from her homeland, a souvenir of her terroir, a hexagonal mould to make ‘pelmeni’ the Russian dumplings. 
We have divided our menu into proletariat, post revolutionary and posh, pre-revolutionary food. Nowadays, having heard stories of Soviet food shortages and austerity, we do not associate Russian food with gastronomy, opulence and luxury. However there was a great collaboration in the 18th and 19th centuries between Russian and French chefs, resulting in many dishes ‘chicken kiev’ for instance. This was also the time when “service à la russe”, that is plates being served consecutively in the order they are written on the menu, became popular, in contrast to “service à la francaise” everything served at once.
I’m serving small plates of food called ‘Zakuski’:
Vodka shots served during the meal. I’m using Grey Goose (a French vodka), Russian Standard, and Sacred Spirits (a British vodka)
Black bread with smoked salmon and salmon caviar
Home made blinis with real caviar from Kings Fine Foods.
Borscht soup
Pickled tomatoes and gherkins (pickled vegetables very popular in Russian for seasons in which nothing can be grown)
Home made sauerkraut
Pickled mushrooms
Estonian sprat paté
Fabergé eggs
Stolichnyj salad
Stuffed cabbages
Sturgeon in sour cherry sauce
Dessert:
A dessert known as ‘Napoleon’, a mille feuille with condensed milk and kilos of butter. Napoleon cake comes from a bastardisation of Napolitain rather than the failed conqueror of Russia, Emperor Napoleon. This recipe is obscene: the cream consists of a one kilo can of condensed milk mixed with a pack of butter. It’s brilliantly addictive. You can’t stop thinking about it once you’ve tried.You’ll wake up in the middle of the night wondering if you should get up and have another slice.
An apple charlotte
Black tea served in saucers from a samovar. Russians like to drink from saucers and this is also a very English working class habit, my nan used to do it, to pour your tea into a saucer to cool it down, then drink, although I’ve not seen anyone do this for years.
Bubliki + soviet chocolate sweets

Recent posts

guacamole Pic: Kerstin Rodgers

Halloween/Day of the Dead supper club October 29th

August 10, 2022

Emily O'Hare serving pasta at an al fresco dinner in La Torre Alle Tolfe, just outside Siena in Tuscany pic; Kerstin Rodgers

Visiting Tuscany, Chianti, sommelier Emily O’Hare and the world’s most famous butcher

August 4, 2022

The Palio in Siena, Italy: curses and horses

July 28, 2022

Previous Post: « Christmas present ideas for people who are always in the kitchen at parties
Next Post: Zakuski, Russian night in pictures »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Liz

    November 12, 2010 at 5:14 pm

    I went to Russia in 1980 then again in 2000. The first time what do I remember? – borscht, eating lots of eggs and not much meat, little old ladies selling handfuls of woodland strawberries, tins of caviar in Gum, kvass being sold on the street from mobile tankers. Then in 2000 in St Petersburg – the wonderful market, cream cheese by the bucketful and so much fresh produce sold beside fresh bunches of lily of the valley… fascinating culture, fascinating country.

    Reply
  2. theundergroundrestaurant

    November 13, 2010 at 12:34 am

    The only time I've been there is passing through various stops on the way to Nepal…this was during the Soviet era.
    Would love to go though…

    Reply
  3. Anonymous

    October 27, 2011 at 6:22 am

    As you know russian traditional cooking recipes is very popular all over the world!!
    Are you like making meal for your family?
    Please wellcome to new home website russian traditional cooking – [url=http://www.russcooking.com]russian cooking[/url] for you and your family.

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Primary Sidebar

MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

Subscribe to my mailing list

msmarmitelover

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Tonight’s dinner: Caesar salad with coddled egg, Tonight’s dinner: Caesar salad with coddled egg, anchovy, Parmesan dressing & pine nuts; roast apricots with mozzarella, roast peppers with garlic & tomato; grilled sweetcorn with honey, butter & espelette pepper dressing; smoked mackerel pâté with dill. #alfresco #summerlovin #dinnertonight
Grilled Manouri cheese (like halloumi but not rubb Grilled Manouri cheese (like halloumi but not rubbery and less salty) with watermelon, spruce oil and tarragon. #salad #summervibes
I went to @hide_restaurant in Piccadilly, they are I went to @hide_restaurant in Piccadilly, they are now doing breakfast & brunch. The restaurant design is stunning in itself, from the gaudi-esque central staircase, to the table decorations, to the uniforms of the waiting staff. Chef @olliedabous has developed an incredible menu: from standards like avocado on toast (beautifully presented with edible flowers & 2 lightly poached eggs), pain au chocolat (buckwheat), french toast with blueberry compote ( cloud-like, soft, light), British @exmoorcaviar with sourdough, mango with kefir lime zest, an extraordinary tea & coffee menu ( Brazilian single estate coffee) Yuzu indigo tea. You can spend a lot. Or a little. Worth it for the design, the baking, the feeling of experiencing a rare treat. #london #breakfast #brunch #review #invitation
My niece @rachaelrodgers wedding to Luca Venezia @ My niece @rachaelrodgers wedding to Luca Venezia @cursesforever. It’s been featured in US vogue. Style, good food, great music, stunning backgrounds of mount vesuvius & Naples were the order of the day. Or should I say 3 days which is how long it lasted. The bride wore white but it was a vintage @viviennewestwood corset (one of only 5 existing, the other 3 are in fashion museums), and a flowery bikini to cut the delicious rose 🌹 and cherry 🍒 cake. Hawaiian barbie & La Cicciolina were inspirations. The guests were equally stunning. #naples #wedding #bridestyle
Air fryer recipe: aubergine sticks with yoghurt an Air fryer recipe: aubergine sticks with yoghurt and tahini sauce. Aubergines 🍆 soak up a lot of oil so an air fryer is a great way to minimise the calorific content. They tasted just as delicious! Recipe here: https://msmarmitelover.com/2022/06/air-fryer-recipe-aubergine-sticks-with-yoghurt-tahini-sauce.html I only used a couple of tablespoons of olive oil rather than a gallon. Going to play about with some other recipes. #airfryer #recipe I got my air fryer here: https://www.very.co.uk/electricals/cooking-appliances/fryers/e/b/4571.end it’s an extra large with 2 drawers.
This is a new dish I’ve invented called, ahem, p This is a new dish I’ve invented called, ahem, patatas nachas. Underneath is a layer of potatoes fried in olive oil. On top nachos with cheese, salsa, guacamole, creme fraiche, rajas. It’s a mash up of patatas bravas and nachos. There is a brilliant book out with 75 nachos variations by @tfimb called nachos for dinner. Nachos are quick tasty & if you add other elements- filling. #nachos #dinner
Ciambotta which is an Italian version of ratatouil Ciambotta which is an Italian version of ratatouille but with fried potato. Recipes here: https://www.hamhigh.co.uk/things-to-do/food-reviews/three-neapolitan-vegetarian-recipes-9147040 #naples #recipe #vegetarian
Aqua Sale, a fisherman’s meal in campania. ‘Yo Aqua Sale, a fisherman’s meal in campania. ‘You take dry bread, put it in a colander, put it in the sea, drain it, add tomatoes, oil, oregano and this is a meal. Every family had a dried bread drawer.’ I was told. I used basil and made my own ‘sea water’ by adding salt to fresh water. Recipe in the @ham&high and on the blog soon. #aquasale #breadsalad #cucinapovera #tomatoes #heatwavefood
Zeppoline, deep-fried pizza doughnuts with seaweed Zeppoline, deep-fried pizza doughnuts with seaweed - a Neapolitan dish I had in a local trattoria in a sweltering narrow street. Served hot in a basket, I tore them up and dipped them in oil & lemon juice. Recipe in the ham and high and on the blog soon. #recipe #naples #fried
Being silly at last night’s picnic for my sister Being silly at last night’s picnic for my sister in laws birthday in waterlow park. A rolypoly race. 
I’ve not been feeling great the past few days, sniffles, headache, sore throat. I took a test after the picnic just to be on the safe side & sure enough I finally caught the dreaded covid. 
When I feel better I’ll return to Italy.
This vegetarian met the worlds most famous butcher This vegetarian met the worlds most famous butcher @dariocecchinimacellaio whose shop is located in Panzano, Tuscany. He trained my favourite food writer @bill.buford in butchery. I told him I didn’t eat meat & he twinkled ‘to beef or not to beef’. He has a Clark Gable elegance: moustache, slicked back hair, charm, & a designer shirt depicting cows from @cotondoux paris. I instinctively wore a red & white striped dress which matched the colours of his shop, the red & white of the surgeon. They serve you glasses of Dario’s own Chianti Classico complete with straw bottomed ‘fiasco’. Now where else do you get that? When I return I will try the vegetarian menu at his restaurant opposite. #butcher #panzano #tuscany #chiantishire #chianticlassico #foodsiena #foodreportage
On a very steep street in siena, Tuscany. They’v On a very steep street in siena, Tuscany. They’ve had to be creative with the table legs. We went to the Palio horse race in the shell-shaped piazza where the passion & downright enmity of the different contrada or districts, each represented by an animal or mascot, was on display. The riders go bareback. It’s the horse that wins not the jockey. A riderless horse can win. There are many false starts, a massive explosion going boom in the square each time which led kids to cry. We waited for hours in the cheap seats- the burnt ochre brickwork of the centre. While tourists at windows paid 600 euros for the privilege. I loved the singing, like football chants but operatic- lots of finger pointing at each other. After I went to a contrada dinner on the streets of Siena, a rare opportunity. For 35 euros you attend the largest ‘supper club’ ever- 800 people, 4 courses, generous helpings of chianti. The servers are local teenagers. I wore my ‘Oca’ or goose scarf around my shoulders, looking like a girl guide. A bucket list item ticked off. I only wish my daughter @siennamarla was with me. #travel #food #italy #chiantishire #siena #palio #supperclub #oca #contrada
Looking at vegetables in Italy. Photo by @loredana Looking at vegetables in Italy. Photo by @loredanaparisi72
My piece in the @hamandhigh about the 3 day @heat My piece in the @hamandhigh about the  3 day @heathostile training course. Incredibly interesting & challenging. Link: https://www.hamhigh.co.uk/things-to-do/hostile-environment-training-9037980 to read more #hostileenvironmenttraining
Supper club dishes from Saturday: pickled beetroot Supper club dishes from Saturday: pickled beetroot eggs, cheeseboard, stracciatella & cucumber, tomato/strawberry/peashoot salad with real balsamic & spruce oil, home cured dill gravlax, smoked salmon, homemade sourdough crisp bread, potato salad with wild fennel & lots more! #supperclub #midsummer #eattherainbow (miss you @linnsoederstroem)
Last nights supper club. My first supper club in 2 Last nights supper club. My first supper club in 2 years was great fun. I’m pleased with my food, the guests were lovely, it looked magical in the garden. But the weather! I even had to bring my duvets from the bedroom out. They looked like refugees. But this brought even more laughter! Next event September
My first supperclub in two years will take place t My first supperclub in two years will take place this Saturday 18th June starting at 7.30pm. Tickets are £50 byo you can book here: https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsommar-supper-club there are still a few places left. Pescetarian menu. Scandi and botanical influences. #gettingbackonmyfeet #postpandemic #smallbusinesses #supperclub #london
I recently completed the 3 day @heathostile train I recently completed the 3 day  @heathostile training course. On the last day I was kidnapped by ex-special forces for a few hours & learnt how to deal with compliance training & a hostile environment. It was one of the most interesting experiences of my life. 3 intense days of combat first aid, navigation & how to survive in a war zone. I handled short, long guns, mortars, grenades, bullets, and tourniquet & bandaged an amputee. I learnt where to sit in a car, where to hide from a bullet, where to protect myself if in a car. It was brilliant. Highly recommended for any journalists, photographers, cameramen, charity workers, paramedics going into any difficult environment say a disaster or war. The stories from the tutors & the other participants were so interesting. My piece on it out soon. Book a course: https://hostile-environment.co.uk/  They also do jungle & desert training. I’d love to join the Antarctic expedition. Anyway that’s me hooded in the front. #adventures #het #hostileenvironmenttraining #experiences #travel
Bundoran beach, Donegal. I spent a week knocking o Bundoran beach, Donegal. I spent a week knocking on doors, going to libraries, searching through graveyards for my Irish forebears. It’s really hard to find information prior to 1850. I found this in last years trip to Arbroath in Scotland. Headstones wear out, records are lost or burnt in a fire, everybody has the same name and are known by nicknames, successive children have the same first name, that usually means they died and the next one is called by the same thing. Women did have children out of wedlock, and people remarried more often than you’d think, plus families fall out & never see each other again. I learnt that my Irish great grandfather michael went to Glasgow & met a woman who came from a similar place: somewhere wild & beautiful by the sea. Then they and their children came to london. Chasing the work & the money always. Politics and economics matter for they push people around from rural to city. And now we rodgers are Londoners. #ireland #scotland #family #travel #roots
How some of us celebrate the Queen’s jubilee! My How some of us celebrate the Queen’s jubilee! My sister & a random Irishman come for the Rory Gallagher festival in ballyshannon. Sis has pulled already!  #getyourcoat #sexpistols #ballyshannon #rorygallagherfestival #ireland
Load More... Follow on Instagram

Archives

Copyright © 2022 msmarmitelover