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Spaghetti dinners

January 9, 2011 7 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

When I was a child all pasta was called spaghetti or macaroni. The word pasta was a chic import in the newly food conscious 70s, just prior to discovering pesto sauce in the 80s. Spaghetti itself remains my favourite shape and paired with a garlicky sugo al Napoletano tomato sauce, is my death row meal, my desert island dish, my first culinary impulse after any illness, appetite regained, the food I long for in foreign climes and the first dinner I make on returning.
A Neopolitan tomato sauce with olive oil, onions, bay leaf, garlic and basil is from the poorer south of Italy, where meat is scarcer than in the north, rather than the meat based Bolognese from Bologna.
Spaghetti only goes with certain sauces, anything else is heresy. The best spaghetti is bronze die, when it is ‘extruded’ through a shaped template made of bronze which gives an irregular and rough surface texture, all the better to hold the sauce.  Bronze die pasta hasn’t really taken off in Britain, although Jamie Oliver produced a range. It seems that people are not yet willing to pay that little bit extra for a quality pasta.
Most of the time I buy De Cecco or Barilla, as this is widely available in supermarkets. Italian chef Francesco Mazzei of L’Anima favours Cocco or Martelli.
Cooking time is another key issue: the French for instance, for all their culinary talent, invariably overcook pasta. American Barilla pasta has longer cooking times cited on the package than Italian Barilla. I’ve heard that southern Italians like their pasta even more al dente than northerners.
It’s difficult to cook spaghetti well in bulk. Bill Buford’s brilliant book Heat explains, in recounting his ‘stage’ at Mario Batali’s in New York, how restaurants cook pasta, and the importance of the pasta water. “In all these dishes was an ingredient you can’t get at home: the restaurant’s pasta water.”
There are three stages that the boiling water in the pasta pot goes through during service: 1) clear and very salty “Like the sea” 2) cloudy, becoming”an increasingly thick vehicle for soluble starch. …by the time the water reached this condition it behaved like a sauce thickener, binding the elements and, in effect flavouring the pasta with the flavour of itself….” and finally 3) muddy. The reader is advised never to order pasta after ten pm.
Buford is amazed that at home, we drain all that good pasta water away in a colander, rather than “using a pair of tongs and pulling the spaghetti straight out of the pot”.
Over the years a series of spaghetti myths has developed but…

  • don’t put oil in the water,
  • don’t break spaghetti
  • don’t cut it
  • don’t throw it against the wall to see if it’s cooked
  • don’t rinse it for god’s sake, the starch helps the sauce adhere
  • even dried pasta should be as fresh as possible
  • only use freshly grated Parmesan
  • only use freshly ground pepper
  • don’t use Parmesan with fishy sauces
  • pasta cools quickly so serve it on warmed plates
  • use lots of water to boil it in
  • salt the cooking water adequately, this means you need to salt the sauce less
  • do not add sugar to your tomato sauce
I’m having a spaghetti dinner this Friday coming on the 14th of January, a three course meal for £25 if you want to book, go here. 

The Menu:

Fennel and blood orange salad

Spaghetti Puttanesca

Galette des rois

3 cheeses and biscuits £5 extra

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Clare

    January 9, 2011 at 8:52 pm

    Hip hip horay, for bronze-extruded spaghetti! Pasta al pomodoro would be my desert island food too!

    Reply
  2. fudgeit

    January 10, 2011 at 8:55 am

    I also read somewhere that La Molisana make good pasta too? I was pleasantly surprised to find that an Asian family supermarket sitting right on the doorstep of Bradford's riot stocks only this range.

    Reply
  3. Sally - My Custard Pie

    January 10, 2011 at 10:41 am

    You are in good company. Anna del Conte named pasta with tomato sauce as her desert island dish on Desert Island discs the other day.

    Reply
  4. The Curious Cat

    January 10, 2011 at 3:31 pm

    uh oh…I disagree with some of those rules…I love a little sugar in my tomato sauce -esp my bolognaise…and I like parmesan on my fish pasta (I know I'm a cretin)and I often break the spaghetti to make eating more manageable… oh dear…but aren't rules made to be broken? And these breaks work for me…! xxx

    Reply
  5. Liz

    January 10, 2011 at 4:13 pm

    When I lived in London after leaving university I used to trawl the Italian delis and shops in Soho – it was where I say fresh pasta for the first time- where I came from the only place you found pasta was in a tin…hard to imagine now..

    Reply
  6. theundergroundrestaurant

    January 11, 2011 at 12:48 pm

    I didn't hear Anna Del Conte's desert islands disc…will try to catch it on listenagain…

    Thanks for your comments…

    Reply
  7. chumbles

    January 12, 2011 at 1:15 pm

    I agree with all of the rules, except that, like the Curious Cat, I cannot resist putting parmesan on a fishy sauce (I also use creme fraiche with passata, another no no). As for sugar, I don't touch it, but I find that balsamic vinegar (cheapskate a la Modena from Carrefours) performs a very similar function.

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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msmarmitelover

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Apple rose blossom tarts with rose jam. Rose Appl Apple rose blossom tarts with rose jam.  Rose Apple Blossom Tarts

Serves 8

Equipment: 
Microwave
Cupcake or muffin tin

I use a red-skinned apple to make these, to get a hint of blush at the edges of the ‘petals’.

Ingredients:
4 Pink Lady or Royal Gala apples, cored, cut into quarters, sliced thinly into half moons
1 lemon, squeezed
1 pack all butter readymade puff pastry 320g, on a roll, cut into 8 strips about 6 cms long
100g of melted butter
1/2 jar of rose jam
1 or 2 tbsp cinnamon or cardamom, ground 
Pinch maldon salt
2 or 3 tbsp icing sugar

Instructions

Prepare a bowl of acidulated water (cold water with lemon juice) to prevent browning.
Core the apples, and cut them in quarters. Slice thinly into half-moons (a mandolin is useful for this). 
Put them into a large bowl of cold water with the lemon.
Microwave the bowl of sliced apples for 5 minutes until soft enough to bend slightly but not cook them.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
Roll out the puff pastry. Divide into 8 sections by cutting the roll into quarters then halving each quarter. You will end up with 8 approximately 6cm strips.
Brush the strip with melted butter then paint with a layer of rose jam. You can then dust with either ground cinnamon or cardamom.
Lay the apple slices along the top of the pastry strip, overlapping them. Fold up the bottom half of the pastry strip to make an pleat with the skin side of the apple half moon poking over the top.
Roll up the folded pastry strips until they look like a rose made of apple at the top
Place ‘rose’ side up, in a buttered cupcake tin
Repeat until all are done and bake for 20 -30 minutes.
Using a tea strainer or small sieve, sprinkle with icing sugar.
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