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South Africa’s Sweet Sixteenth, Star Ruby grapefruit and the Shebeen queen

July 5, 2011 4 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

South African child licking citrus

In 1999 I visited South Africa, five years after the end of apartheid. The country seemed fitful, hanging by a thread: blacks stood quietly in the corner at places I visited while whites were either heading barbed wire companies, living in gated communities or, the other extreme, running around in rags on the street. I also spent time in Zimbabwe, which seemed like a vision for the future: a thriving artistic community in Bulawayo, and apparently friendly relations between black and white.
Twelve years later the situations have reversed: Zimbabwe is a basket case and South Africa, a hopeful experiment for the future of the continent.


Grapefruit 

I was invited to visit by South African citrus farmers: enormous Hagrid-sized desert khaki-clad men in shorts and boots. They are worried about grapefruit. The UK is one of their largest markets but it seems to be the forgotten fruit. 88% of Britons have never bought grapefruit. In marketing terms this is called ‘penetration’. The highest ‘penetration’ is for apples and bananas, most people buy them. A twelve per cent penetration is low.

Japan, on the other hand, adores grapefruits; averaging out at two each every day.

“What are the Japanese doing with grapefruit?” I asked, my curiosity piqued.

“The customers are older. They eat them for breakfast. Grapefruit is considered an old fashioned fruit”, I was told on my second day at a conference attended by farmers in Nelspruit.

Here is the story of grapefruit in pictures, starting with a tasting session of 10 grapefruit varieties. I must say, I’m a convert. It’s a clean tasting fruit, less bitter than it used to be. I imagine it in cocktails, salads and salsas, not just a half for breakfast.

Kruger Park elephant safari

After visiting the grapefruit farmers of South Africa, I spent a night in Kruger Park, a section of fenced off land near the Mozambique border where wild animals can live naturally.
I rode an African elephant for the first time. Terrifying. African elephants are wilder than Asian elephants. Their ragged ears are huge and in the shape of the African continent. The more holes their ears contain, the older the elephant. Elephants can live up to 60 years old; their life span is dependant on their teeth. They grow a new set every ten years; when the last set of molars has grown and worn out, they can no longer chew their food, end up chewing on their jaw bone and die through malnutrition. Being an elephant is hard work: their size means they must spend most of the day eating and only six hours sleeping. They also have very poor digestive systems.
Before the ride we had a demonstration of how acutely the elephant can smell. Each of us took off a shoe and placed it in front of another person. The elephant picked up the shoe with it’s trunk and handed it to the correct owner. This took a matter of seconds. (When travelling around the safari park, the human smell is disguised by the smell of the petrol from the car).
The groom told us that sometimes he went shopping to the supermarket on the elephant. But they cannot ‘park’ very near to the supermarket as elephants love citrus. When going on safari, do not have citrus in your car, elephants may attack!
To ride an elephant we had to clamber up a staircase and straddle the saddle, it was rather wide. The groom rode in front. The elephant moved quite swiftly through the thorned spiky trees of the African bush. It seemed unaware that we humans did not possess a three and half inch carapace with which to protect ourselves from scratches. Suddenly after ten minutes of the ‘ride’, the body of the elephant shook like an earthquake.

“What’s going on?” I asked nervously.The groom replied “She wants to join the wild elephants out in the bush. She’s communicating with them by sending out tremors through the ground”.

The elephant kept rearing up, turning her head towards the bush and dipping her shoulders. I really didn’t want to fall. I’ve fallen off a camel before but in the dessert, onto soft sand. The keeper on the ground seemed panicky. The groom shouted repeatedly at the elephant. My companion behind had gone strangely quiet.

“Do tourists ever die?” I squeaked.

The groom’s answer was evasive.
Finally with the bribe of nuts the elephant consented to turn away from the wild. Back at base camp, I dismounted with relief.

African elephant foot
 An elephant’s weight is all on the front feet
elephant molars, kruger park, south africa
 See the molars?
 Elephant playing football, kruger park, south africa
 Elephant playing football
 A ranger dipping her rusk in her billy can of rooibos tea. Kruger Park.
 A ranger dipping her rusk in her billy can of rooibos tea
 A warthog, kruger park.
 A warthog. I can’t look at this without thinking of ‘Lion King’.
 An African dawn breakfast, coffee and rusk. Kruger Park.
 An African dawn breakfast, coffee and rusk
 The contract where we sign away our lives... elephant ride, kruger park
 The contract where we sign away our lives…
 A duiker seen at night
 A duiker seen at night
Imagine having giraffes in your back garden...
Imagine having giraffes in your back garden…
 Toiletries included insect repellent. kruger park.
 Toiletries included insect repellent
 My room at Kruger Park
 My room at Kruger Park
The terrace outside my room

Soweto

 The pots of food
On my last day in South Africa, I revisited Soweto, the township on the outskirts of Johannesburg where  the Mandela family lived. Winnie still lives there. She has a restaurant opposite the Nelson Mandela museum. Apparently the food is very bad.

I visited a Soweto landmark…Wandies, a shebeen or underground restaurant, South African style. I was hoping to talk to Wandie himself but he was away. The young restaurant manager gave me the tour showing the heavy cast iron dutch ovens which contained typical African food like ‘pap’ (a kind of maize like polenta), ‘sauce’ (tomatoes and onions), greens, meat stews (oxtail and ox tongue is very popular), and a curry (South African food is influenced by Malaysian, Chinese and Indian cuisine). African native food is quite plain, spices being imported from Asia. Wandies started as a four room house, but has now spread out to fit 175 covers. During last year’s world cup, they worked all hours. Once the only restaurant in Soweto, now Wandies has competition, several others have sprung up.
Further up the road I chanced upon a more basic shebeen, still a four room house, selling quarts of beer and fried food such as fish and chips. It’s named after it’s owner ‘Magic’ who sat in the living room playing guitar. He has an alcohol license which you don’t need to pay for in South Africa and is open 10 am to 10pm weekdays and 10 am till 2am at weekends. Magic says a true shebeen is where you discuss politics. White people never go to his shebeen but I was made very welcome. I explained what I did in London with The Underground Restaurant…“oh so you are a shebeen queen!” Magic exclaimed and opened a beer for me on his crate.

Tourists at Wandies shebeen, soweto
Tourists at Wandies
 Wandie himself, a friend of Richard Branson's, proprietor of Wandies restaurant, soweto.
 Wandie himself, a friend of Richard Branson’s
 Magic and his shebeen queen, Soweto.
 Magic and his shebeen queen
 Bar prices and an alcohol license, Soweto.
 Bar prices and an alcohol license
A quart of beer, shebeen, Soweto
A quart of beer
 At Magic's shebeen, a young man opens a beer on the crate where he sits...
 At Magic’s shebeen, a young man opens a beer on the crate where he sits…

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Comments

  1. BIIAB Training

    July 5, 2011 at 5:53 am

    So thanks for an informative and entertaining article which has pulled me away from the day job for a happy five minutes!

    Reply
  2. claud15

    July 5, 2011 at 11:36 am

    Loved this, reminded me of my trip to Kruger many years ago and boy have the rooms changed for the better.
    Lovely article.

    Reply
  3. chumbles

    July 6, 2011 at 8:00 am

    Ms ML, there is a joy in your writing, an open engagement with the people you meet that makes me think you were born to be a travel writer. The narrative and the photos draws me in every time. Excellent. And thank you.

    Reply
  4. Homeandfood

    October 3, 2012 at 5:16 pm

    Looks like you had an absolutely fantastic holiday, I'm very jealous indeed.

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

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msmarmitelover

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Got the sewing machine out last night and hemmed t Got the sewing machine out last night and hemmed the top of these toile de jouey curtains in my summer house shed. The days are lengthening a little which brightens up my mood. Self care= trying to get up and washed. Trying to leave the house once a day. Keeping my hands busy. Finding small ways to be creative. #coronaloner #sewingmachine #curtains #shedsofinstagram #sheshed #springiscoming #supperclub #stayingsane #selfcare #lockdown3
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On the heath on Sunday. Must. Walk. More. #coronal On the heath on Sunday. Must. Walk. More. #coronaloner
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Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Mi Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Minus Crown and king as I cannot find either. This one is made with Tonka bean. Plus homemade puff pastry (well worth the effort). According to ike delorenzo at The Atlantic:  The tonka bean, a flat, wrinkled legume from South America with an outsize flavor that the US government has declared illegal. Nonetheless, it proliferates on elite American menus. The tiniest shavings erupt in a Broceliande of transporting, mystical aromas.
The taste of the tonka bean is linked strongly to its scent. "Scents," I should say, as the tonka bean has many at once. I register the aromas of vanilla, cherry, almond, and something spicy—a bit like cinnamon. When served cold—say, in tonka bean ice cream—the taste is like a vanilla caramel with dark honey. When warm, perhaps shaved over scallops, it moves toward spiced vanilla. Additionally, the aroma of the tonka bean shavings (it's almost always shaved) is so affecting that it seems like an actual taste in the way that opium, which has no taste in the traditional sense, "tastes" like its rich, flowery smoke.  Here is the recipe: 

Tonka bean galette des rois

Serves 8
Ingredients
* 140 g caster sugar
* 125 g salted butter, softened
* 100 g ground almonds
* 2 eggs, medium
* 1 tonka bean, grated
* 2 packs ready made butter puff pastry on a roll
* 1 yolk for brushing the pastry
Instructions
* Preheat your oven to 200c.

* Blend the butter with the sugar then add the almonds. Make sure it’s well mixed. Add in the 2 eggs one at a time, then add the tonka bean.

* If using a block: divide the puff pastry into two and roll out to 5mm thick. 
* Make two circles about 15 cm’s each in diameter. Lay one circle on a silicone mat/parchment paper on a baking tray and fill with the almond cream leaving a 3 cm border around the edge. 
* Paint the border with the egg yolk. Then lay the other circle on top, sealing the edges with a fork. 
* You could then carve designs into the top. Make a little slit in the middle to let steam escape then brush the top with the egg yolk
Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. T Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. This is a vegan version. ***

Ingredients:
- 400 g box of soft tofu not silken
- 5 soaked dried shiitake mushrooms, diced, keep water
- 1 red bell pepper, finely sliced
- 400 g fresh shiitake mushroom, sliced thinly
- 400 ml vegetable stock
- 1 thumb fresh ginger, minced
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 4 tbsps groundnut or vegetable oil
- 3 tbsp fermented bean paste
- 1 or 2 small red chillies, minced or a spoonful of Chinese chilli paste
- 1 tsp heaped sichuan peppercorns, finely ground
- 2 tbsps soy or tamari sauce
- 2 tbsp cornflour in 3 tbsps water, mixed into a slurry
- 4 spring onions, finely sliced
- large pinch fresh coriander leaves

Prepare the tofu by cutting it into one inch cubes and soaking it in hot but not boiling salted water. Drain after 15 minutes.
Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms, covering them in boiling water. Leave until soft, then dice the mushrooms. Retain the mushroom soaking water and add to the vegetable stock water.
Prepare the other ingredients so they are ready to stir-fry: red bell pepper, fresh mushrooms, ginger, garlic.

Using a wok or deep frying pan, add the oil and heat to frying temperature. Add the bell peppers,fry for a couple of minutes, then add fermented bean paste, chilli paste or chillies, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sichuan pepper.
Add the mushroom/vegetable broth and simmer on high for a couple of minutes.
Carefully add the cubes of tofu, taking care not to break them too much.
Add the cornflour slurry, stirring for a couple of minutes.
Serve with rice or noodles, garnishing with spring onions or chives and or coriander leaves.  #veganuary #mapotofu #sichuanfood #tofu  #shitakemushrooms #supperclub #londonchef #msmarmitelover #ham&highcolumn #eatplants #lockdown3 #selfisolation #coronaloner #cooking #recipe #cookingfromscratch
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Writing about tofu which I think has an unfair rep Writing about tofu which I think has an unfair reputation in this country. It’s so flexible and is a brilliant flavour sponge. Here I’m preparing my soft tofu for a Japanese dish: agedashi tofu. I first pressed it in a clean tea towel with a weight on top to firm it up a bit but not too much. Then I dusted it with cornflour and I will deep fry it in oil. Then I will serve it in a broth of dashi/mirin and tamari sauce, sprinkled with finely chopped spring onions and togarashi pepper from Japan. I would usually add some finely mandolined daikon radish but couldn’t find any. It’s a subtle dish of texture: soft yet crispy. After Christmas I’m desperate for light zingy fresh flavoured food. #supperclub #tofu #vegan #vegetarian #agedashitofu #newyearsday #cookingagain #lunch #asian #japanesefood
Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holdi Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holding on...
#happynewyear #happynewyear2021 #supperclub #hootenanny
Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg includi Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg including mashed swede with cheese and butter. I put pomegranate seeds with my sprouts, and cooked my carrots in marmalade ( worked v well), the mushroom wreath fell apart as I was transferring it to a tray 😤, roast potatoes and parsnips, then a cheese spread with fruit nuts, quince cheese (homemade), Chocs @lindtuk 😍 @guylian_uk @disaronno_official @baileysofficial @taylorsportwine and Brazil nuts. Plus a pavlova wreath ready to be topped with whipped cream and persimmons. 
#christmasdinner #vegetarianchristmas #vegetarianchristmasdinner #supperclub #londonchristmas #liqueurs #christmasspread #grazing #cheeseboard #port #pavlova
Christmas has started! Home-cured smoked beetroot Christmas has started!  Home-cured smoked beetroot and aquavit salmon with homemade blinis, creme fraiche, dill, Prosecco.  The fire is lit 🔥, the tree is up, 🎄the presents 🎁 are wrapped, we have a #brexit deal- a Christmas miracle. Peace and harmony. #christmas #christmasinengland #homemade #christmaseve #blinis #smokedsalmon #prosecco🍾 #londonchristmas
Done some doorscaping, the latest trend in Christm Done some doorscaping, the latest trend in Christmas decorating. It might also cheer up passersby. #christmas #christmasdecor #doorscaping #doorsofinstagram #londonchristmas #doorwreath #doordecor #doorsoftheworld #doordecoration #exteriors #london #supperclub #covidchristmas
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