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The Gilbert Scott at St. Pancras

August 13, 2011 6 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

 Arabian night sky ceiling.
Hand painted walls.
Glasses of British champagne to start.

Finally London has a place to match the Musée D’Orsay in Paris! This vast renovation of St Pancras hotel is heart stoppingly dramatic: the combination of pattern, on the carpet, walls and ceiling is daring, conveying the exotic adventurism of British colonialism. The Victorian gothic architecture is matched by sweeping staircases, tall cathedral windows, arched vouted ceilings, brass door fittings and ghostly corridors. Marcus Wareing’s restaurant dishes at The Gilbert Scott intelligently match the era and decor. I have seen reports of poor service, but I found the French imported front of house perfectly sufficient. I imagined them getting on a Eurostar at the end of the evening.
It’s not cheap however, we spent about £75 each but there are early supper and lunch deals. Both the teen, my friend Mary and I really enjoyed our evening there. I even met my lovely friend Shelley von Strunckel tucked into a booth, but then, she is a local! We chatted about the astrology of the riots, theatre, travel and food. Her companion has a farm in Sri Lanka, he described the avocados “like footballs”…I must go there.
I would love to stay at the hotel but I read that the rooms are less baroque in decor, more corporate which is a shame.

A cured mackerel, potato salad with soup. The ingredient that made this dish sing were the pickled grapes.
I liked the idea of this English dish, a baked onion with thyme and cheese but it lacked umami. Maybe it should be simmered in Marmite, that would be very British.
Stylish waiters with braces and arm garters.
Oyster with pickled lemon slices, I stole the lemon slices off my friend’s plate, they were so moreish.
Artichoke tart for mains for me. Basically a big posh vol au vent with one of my favourite vegetables. 
My architect friend Mary had sea bream (I think) with a vongole sauce, an intense liquor you wanted to mop up with bread. We also had a side of nutmeggy cauliflower cheese and chunky crisp chips. Lovely.
The teen’s fish n chips. Very good. More of the super crispy battered fish would have been appreciated however. Sarson’s mayonnaise a good addition. Sarson’s vinegar, a traditional British ingredient, is used extensively throughout the menu, which I liked.
My Jaffa cake desert was very good and reflected the intricate patterns of the decor outside. The teen had the “delicious” chocolatey cornflakes: a warm chocolate mousse with cereal that was a clever updated twist on children’s nursery food.
An elegant dining room that I would happily eat in every day.
The staircase, a jumble of structured colour and pattern.
The ghostly hallways with Minton tiled floors.
Wouldn’t you like to don a bustle and suck on a cigar?
Maybe they could film an update of The Shining here? Kubrick would have approved. Every carpet is designed specially. 

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Henry North London 2.0

    August 14, 2011 at 2:16 pm

    Those carpets are divine…

    Reply
  2. theundergroundrestaurant

    August 14, 2011 at 3:31 pm

    Aren't they?

    Reply
  3. Tasting Pages

    August 14, 2011 at 9:14 pm

    It's such a grand and stunning hotel, I visited for the first time recently (for cocktails) and was very impressed. They've done and amazing job, inside in the public areas (haven't seen any of the rooms yet) and out. Hope to eat at the GS sometime, need to save up! In the meantime I'll continue to stop in for a cocktail and swoon at the decor.

    Reply
  4. Wilhelmine

    August 18, 2011 at 9:28 pm

    Hi, I just bought your book, and I just love it;) We are travel a lot to London and just love London and all the great food. We are real foodies. How can we find out more about the underground restaurant and be a member of the fanclub? We have today send an email (probably not right) on the website, looking forward to eat at some places…and I will for sure follow your blogg. (sorry for my english.;)) Kindly regards from Nina in Norway. You are also welcome to visit my blog if you want;)

    Reply
  5. theundergroundrestaurant

    August 18, 2011 at 10:53 pm

    hi Wilhemine, you can check out the events tab on marmitelover.blogspot.com…for my next events x

    Reply
  6. thejulep

    January 24, 2012 at 6:26 pm

    Looks divine… but most of all I need to know where that gorgeous black and white top/dress is from – WANT!!!

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

msmarmitelover

My first upholstery project: a nursing rocking cha My first upholstery project: a nursing rocking chair. I used pink toile de jouey fabric and stuffed the seat and back. I used brass tacks. Did a 2 day course at Morley college. I wrote about my love of repair, vintage fabrics on my substack: https://kerstinrodgers.substack.com/p/shoes-fabric-hand-made-craft-repair
Last night made a French onion soup with toasted c Last night made a French onion soup with toasted cheese on top and lots of white wine. Perfect food for zero degrees 🧤🧦🧣❄️recipe: half a dozen brown onions sliced thinly softened in olive oil. 5 cloves garlic crushed and added once the onions are soft. Several fresh bay leaves. 3 vag nope I meant veg stock cubes and 1.5 litres of hot water. 1/3 bottle white wine or a glass of dry sherry. Or both. Simmer for a while then add sourdough bread topped with grated cheese at the end. I used cheddar. Serve hot, sprinkle parsley if you have it and good black pepper. I used kampot black peppercorns. #winterfood #soup #homecooking
I did a private afternoon tea supper club yesterda I did a private afternoon tea supper club yesterday. Thanks to @bro0907 and @imogenrodgersofficial for their help #london #afternoontea #supperclub
I went to a pre Christmas event at @themontgomerie I went to a pre Christmas event at @themontgomeriegarden hotel in Bloomsbury last night. It was hosted by the German tourist board promoting Saxony. I saw mini workshops of crafts from Nuremberg- these little 25 point Moravian paper stars ( each one takes an hour to make), finely whittled & carved wooden Christmas decorations , @meissen_germany porcelain, smoking wooden figurines ( filled with incense, nutcrackers, authentic stollen, Nuremberg ginger bread, white mulled wine and some lovely canapés. Going to try to make a stollen myself. You must always cut it in the middle, so you can put it together so it doesn’t get stale. I found out Colditz, the famous TV drama is in Saxons. I’d love to visit. It all got me in the Christmas mood @visit_germany @visitsaxony_ @visitdresden #christmas #stöllen #germanyinlondon
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On the secret platform of the jubilee line at Char On the secret platform of the jubilee line at Charing Cross, now disused, we were treated to a fabulous cheese inspired fashion show by the fashion students of @ualfoundation and @3ddafoundation The cheeses featured were cantal, comté, tomme de savoie, saint nectaire, fourme d’ambert, époisses, Brills-savaging, Camembert, Brie and langres. The outfits were so creative and deeply researched by the designers. @thecheeseexplorer explained that during the tastings, some designers had never tasted those cheeses before. Anglo French @tatty_macleod came and is one of the judges. It was surreal and fun. Afterwards we were treated to a groaning cheese platter table at the bottom of the escalators. Then I joined the commuters of the london tube journeying home. Food and fashion are often opposed: to be fashionable you must not eat. This turns it on its head. @hopscotch_season #london #cheese #fashionandfood #cheesesoffrance
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Took Ophelia @ophelia.rose.2022 to @kenwood_house_ Took Ophelia @ophelia.rose.2022 to @kenwood_house_hampstead_heath for the Halloween trail. It was a little bit scary & I had to shoot & hold her hand at the same time. It’s a lit trail around the gardens and house with food, performances and set pieces. #grandma #london #outings #grandmacore #halloween #thingstodoinlondon
my latest substack post https://kerstinrodgers.sub my latest substack post https://kerstinrodgers.substack.com/p/rad-fems-by-the-seaside-filia-25 on attending the Filia feminist conference in Brighton. It was full of controversy: violent protests by trans activists, splits between feminists over anti-semitism. Also talks on surrogacy with testimony, on the Spy Cops case where women were deceived into long term relationships by married undercover cops, plus my observations of the conference.
Just had this window built by @odgjoinery and stai Just had this window built by @odgjoinery and stained glass window to match the front door by @wstoneglass beautiful work. Thank you so much. #edwardianhouse #victorianhome #stainedglass #joinery #restoration #london #kilburn
Stuffed peppers: filled with soaked fine bulgur wh Stuffed peppers: filled with soaked fine bulgur wheat, hazelnuts, sherry soaked sultanas, preserved lemon, smoky paprika, garlic, dill, coriander leaves , mint, and ground seeds, cumin,pumpkin seeds baked in the oven for 45 minutes. Serve with yoghurt. Delish! #latesummer #recipe #vegetarian #vegan #middleeasternish
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My tea book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is n My tea book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is now out on the cookbook app @ckbk it’s now out of print but you can still buy some print copies via me or Amazon. However you can see all the recipes ( like my sour cherry icecream which I served last week) on this site which is like a Spotify for cooks. Arguably afternoon tea is a meal which the English do better than any other country. #cookbooks #afternoontea #supperclubs
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