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Bestival: how to set up a restaurant in a field

September 21, 2011 14 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

MsMarmite and Jazzelle her sister
First you buy the wellington boots
Then you get furniture delivered from The Cowshed
You are a day and a half late on the build. In fact the whole festival threatened to be shut down on the Tuesday when the site was closed due to high winds. Electricians, tent riggers, gas suppliers, carpenters,  worked through the night to get it back on track. 
So you try to do prep in your caravan. Here we are, making the rice paper sails for the ‘shipwreck pavlova’.
You order 450 pumpkins of ‘soup bowl’ size from local farmer Ben Brown. 
They all need to be hollowed out and prepped.
During the set up days for a festival, you find yourself doing rather macho things like lifting entire rooms over tents by crane. This was our wine store.
The wine being delivered
The kitchen was only up and running a few hours before first service Thursday night. We had to wait a day for the carpenters to put a floor down. Only then could we properly spring into action. Above: a ‘noticeboard’ taped onto the kitchen tent walls.
Chantal Hintz, who was on the pass (the place where things are plated up for serving).
Col Rich led the kitchen team. He kept me smiling with his pithy phrases and northern humour. Thank god for Mancunians.
Luke Robinson, a Jamie Oliver 15 graduate had a dodgy first morning struggling with the salted caramel which ‘seized’ and crystallised.  Luke is a talented young chef who works at Roganic. He’s dead keen and obsessed with food.
Although months of preparation went into setting up the Underground Restaurant at Bestival, I still forgot some essential things…like a scale. I ended up using a prop from Cowshed until Claire Roberson of Green Onions brought me a digital scale.
The beautiful and stylish Michelle Newell. The first day was boring for the waitresses who had to wait around. It’s like being at war or making films, hours of tedium then moments of intensity and action.
This is Pete who made our entrance. I had a row with him the first day when I asked him to change a bit of his work, a large pair of masculine boots. “I don’t want those boots, I’m a woman, so I’d prefer heels, something more feminine to represent my restaurant.“I explained further “There aren’t many female chefs and it’s important to highlight that.” “I’m not interested in the politics of it” he said dismissively. “I’m the artist” he huffed“you are just the cook”. I managed to resist punching him in the face. It was his first commission as an artist so I think he got carried away.
 Actually I think he did a pretty good job, representing the smuggling theme I’d chosen for this festival on an island.
This is my friend Jim who is a builder in the South of France. Surprisingly, builder Jim took to being a Maitre D like a fish to water! He and Beggs came to back me up. You need bloke-age at a festival where things need fixing. Especially, as the festival wore on, the kitchen and restaurant began to sink. In the end the cooks were working at a 45º angle, sliding down the kitchen. In the dining room, glasses were rolling off the tables. It really did feel like a ship, the theme of my restaurant. For days when I returned I kept feeling like I was tipping on an angle, like a sailor on land.
Ruthie Bennet is a prop/costume maker. I wanted the inside to look not only like a ship but also a very domestic space. Often at The Underground Restaurant I leave my washing up to dry so she did a giant version of a washing line complete with comedy seaside bloomers and bras.
Eventually we managed to get the floor down, set up the tables. As the days went on, we had to prop up the benches and table as the entire restaurant seemed to be sliding down the hill.
We got fantastic vintage dresses and petticoats from Lafrock.com
Don’t the girls look gorgeous?
Cute nautical shoes
Les girls.
Heritage tomatoes from The Tomato Stall, a fantastic supplier in the Isle of Wight. This was dressed with a coulis using one of my favourite ingredients, oak smoked tomatoes from The Tomato Stall. 
Mushroom and cheese pies being made for the vegetarians. We decorated it with leaves and had mushrooms sticking out the top.
The Stargazy pies with Isle of Wight mackerel.
For dessert, the shipwreck pavlova decorated with sails, creme de marron and salted caramel
 The first guests, having waited patiently outside as we were late opening, queue up to see their reservations.
There was a great atmosphere at the first sitting, perhaps a feeling of relief that the festival had opened. 
Much of this first sitting was in darkness as there was intermittent power cuts. Fortunately most of the kitchen ran on gas.
As dishes came back, our young waitresses Els Baker and Sophie Line, picked at leftovers.
Me and my sister working out reservations.
 Hey we got it! Time for a drink.
I sold salted caramel and my book.
Here is our lovely bar girl Ebera who was working for Peppermint bars but became a member of the team by dressing up and helping out.
So did this young man, a till operator who was forced to wear a dress.
Tom Baker entertained people with his singing and accordion.
Guests coming to the desk. This lot were completely mashed. The problem with having sittings at festivals is that people forget to turn up. Or get their bookings drastically wrong…several people came either two days early or two days late.
I love that everyone dresses up.
More revellers.
All these boys wore Fair Isle sweaters. I’m not sure what diva, rock star, pop star (the theme of this year’s Bestival) they were trying to be. 
Even the guests were dotty.
Midnight Feast, the waitresses in their dressing gowns.
Guests came in night caps…lots of the men came in cartoon pyjamas.
It ran like clockwork…
Ruthie, wearing a dress she made herself, on a fag break.
One lunch we had several stars come in…Lady Gaga
Madonna in the 80s.
Another couple of Gaga’s.
Who are you? I asked this young man. I’m Freddie Mercury, ooh, I’ve lost my moustache. He found it under the tomato plate.
Brian Harvey of East 17, his jacket has pictures of baked potatoes on the back. Cruel but funny.
Doing sittings close together meant you always had to be ahead on prep, at least one sitting of 50 ahead.
The days were long. We lived on crisps and chocolate buttons and the staff alcohol rider. (Yes, we were like rock stars). I warned staff in a pre opening talk that Sundays are tough days at festivals. Sunday was always going to be the day that hurt the most. A Saturday midnight sitting, a finish at 3.30 am followed by early morning prep for lunch. Sunday, I tumbled out of my caravan and was confronted with the first tears of the day: an exhausted KP who apologised for sobbing a request to go home early the next day.
My sister donned a bra-less top as a persuasive ploy to get our blocked caravan bog sucked clean by the Welsh Portaloo man. It worked. She’s an H cup.
La More dropped by and played mock French songs. They were perfect for our restaurant.
The chefs and staff would bring out the shipwreck pavlovas as a flotilla, to applause from the customers.

The customers loved Luke’s costume and asked to have pictures taken with him.
My impish sister being a living statue. I love to incorporate theatre and food.
The last sitting, things really kicked off and everyone danced on the tables.
What the hell am I doing in this one?
Tanya force fed a customer with pavlova
Packing up my gladrags on the Monday. 
We went for a fantastic dinner at The Garlic Farm restaurant, they did this cute notice for us as the Boswells had come to dinner at The Underground Restaurant. 
Many of my crew were thrilled that famous drug dealer Howard Marks was there. They shared a limo with him back to the campsite.
The Wishing Tree field where we were located. Just before getting the ferry home.
Thanks to Imogen Rodgers, Gemma Thorogood, Col Rich, Chantal Hintze, James Benson, Francesca Klottrup, Andy Wix, Luke Robinson, Beggs, Jim Pennington, Bethan Hughes, Tanya Moulson, Michelle Newell, Claire Brem Wilson, Els Baker, Sophie Line, Ruth Bennet, Sienna Rodgers, Tom Baker and Ebera who were all brilliant and worked their butts off.
Thanks also to Rob and Josie Da Bank, John and Ziggy Hughes, Katie Maddison and all the Bestival team and ground crew for putting on the festival through adversity!
Thanks to LaFrock for the wonderful dresses, Ben Brown, Paul of The Tomato Stall, Phillips Fine Foods (I heard they were cursing me for making them prep 450 mackerel for stargazy, thanks guys) and all the other suppliers who helped me pull this off.

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Jules

    September 21, 2011 at 11:07 am

    Looks like a fabulous event!

    Reply
  2. Rachel at Catalan Cooking

    September 21, 2011 at 11:07 am

    That is utterly amazing. I am left in shock and awe and admiration (and you know me that NEVER happens)at everything that you achieved there.
    Well done doesn't even begin to remotely cover it.

    Reply
  3. Katherine @mustardseedcook

    September 21, 2011 at 11:49 am

    Gobsmacked!! An amazing feat of project management. I hope they paid you loads!

    Well Done!

    Reply
  4. Love Poppy

    September 21, 2011 at 7:47 pm

    Your energy, your stamina, your bravery… my goodness !

    Love Poppy..

    Reply
  5. Grazing Kate

    September 21, 2011 at 8:45 pm

    WOW! Crazy, amazing, exhausting. Well done and wish I'd been there

    Reply
  6. kasia

    September 21, 2011 at 9:02 pm

    wow…such a great post!looks like u had great time!!!!xx

    Reply
  7. Susan's blog

    September 21, 2011 at 9:18 pm

    It looks really fabulous! But sooo very hard and exhausting…and a logistical nightmare. I don't know how you do it and hats off to you, but I suspect loads of people are glad you do, they had so much fun!

    Reply
  8. Wendy Varley

    September 22, 2011 at 4:37 pm

    Having had the pleasure of eating at the Underground Restaurant at Bestival, I thought the food and entertainment were spot on. What a treat. I guest-blogged about the meal for Isle of Wight eating out guide mattandcat.co.uk
    http://mattandcat.co.uk/reviews/index.php/2011/09/10/bestival-food-2011

    Fascinating to read Kerstin's vivid account of what it was like behind the scenes. Beautiful pics, too. Already looking forward to next year!

    Reply
  9. Celle

    September 22, 2011 at 9:09 pm

    Wow! All looks AMAZING! And the sheer amount of work that went into it: overwhelming. You rocks, and I so wish I could have been there.

    Reply
  10. Helena Halme

    September 24, 2011 at 5:40 pm

    Looked like it was fantastically frantic, hard work and good fun. Helena xx

    Reply
  11. emmy__c

    September 25, 2011 at 10:06 am

    Brilliant account of your underground festival escapades! Would love to have been there 🙂 Could you come to Electric Picnic next year?

    Reply
  12. theundergroundrestaurant

    September 25, 2011 at 11:06 am

    Emmy, it would have to be bought as a project by them… it's not cheap to put on something like this.

    Reply
  13. The Curious Cat

    September 25, 2011 at 1:24 pm

    It looks absolutely amazing! What a time you must have had! xxx

    Reply
  14. Anonymous

    September 27, 2011 at 9:17 am

    Dined with you on the Thursday night, after trekking round the fields trying to find you!
    It was a wonderful experience which I thoroughly enjoyed. Food and presentation were fantastic, waitresses were all gorgeous and the people on my bench were great fun. I would definitely recommend it to anyone, and I'll be coming again!
    Thank you – you did an amazing job!

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
My next supper club 17th June london tickets £50 My next supper club 17th June london tickets £50 BYO book here: https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsummer-supper-club-tickets-june-17th #london #supperclub #msmarmitelover #midsummer
For tonight’s event I had to push the boundaries For tonight’s event I had to push the boundaries. Here is how to prepare goose neck barnacles or percebes which are a very expensive and rare delicacy, hunted down from cliffs. It’s quite dangerous to forage them. #canapes #eventcatering #satanicfood #percebes #grossfood #seafood #devilsfood
Midsummer supperclub 17th June book tickets here h Midsummer supperclub 17th June book tickets here https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsummer-supper-club-tickets-june-17th at London’s pioneering supper club. Tickets £50 BYO. Scandinavian inspired summery food. #supperclub #msmarmitelover #midsummer #northwestlondon #londonevents #popups
Tina sweating through a gig at Brixton academy cir Tina sweating through a gig at Brixton academy circa 1987 pic: kerstin Rodgers #rip #tinaturner #rockphotographer #kerstinrodgers #teenagephotographer
Attended an incredible talk with @frenchpete_1 on Attended an incredible talk with @frenchpete_1 on war photography in the Ukraine . Go to the exhibition @thebppa @thebargehouse in SE1 last few days 
Had to stop filming cos I was told off. The photographers would be less forthcoming if they were filmed I was told. 
Anyway @frenchpete_1 should be followed by a camera crew cos he’s a star.
For yesterdays lunch I made a blue cheese puff pas For yesterdays lunch I made a blue cheese puff pastry quiche and a little one with less blue cheese & no salt for my 7 month old granddaughter. She absolutely loved it. I’m enjoying seeing her experience and explore new foods with baby led weaning. Avocado, strawberries, kiwi & buttered crumpets are a hit. Pasta less so. Who is this child? Are we even related? #babyledweaning #quiche #homemadepuffpastry
Nice to be featured as The Great Read in The natio Nice to be featured as The Great Read in The national newspaper again. These are the stories I love to do: I go off on an adventure, take my time, interview people (especially women), photograph them in their environment and create recipes on site. This story cost me a lot more than I made as I had an accident and lost my excess. My own damn fault though! Loved loved loved having a campervan. Thanks for lending me it @camperdays.international and sorry about the hole in the side.  https://www.thenational.scot/news/23505593.foraging-seaweed-western-isles/
My terrace on a sunny May morning. The builders @l My terrace on a sunny May morning. The builders @lk.general.building left yesterday. They’ve been working since January. I had the awning installed, the encaustic Minton tiles removed and put back with green grout. The terrace was causing damp so this had to be done. My calamondin plant is looking lovely. The benches which I repaired with hard wood & I repainted using a mix of 2 colours. The marble table I bought in Suffolk at a car boot. Everything is still dusty & I’m waiting for the window cleaner to arrive.
Last but very heartfelt thankyou to @cideriswine f Last but very heartfelt thankyou to @cideriswine for their contribution of these beautiful dry ciders for the coronation street lunch. Gorgeously illustrated labels. #stcuthbertsrd #kilburn #london #cider #artisanaldrinks
When it comes to vodka I much prefer potato vodka. When it comes to vodka I much prefer potato vodka. It’s smoother. Artisanal distillery @devoncovevodka contributed some bottles to my coronation lunch which gave everyone a feeling of being at a classy party. Thanks so much. And also @rawfoodanddrink for arranging. If you want to read my blog post about how and why I organised this event, copy and paste this link: https://t.co/GWNNW2XKba #coronationstreetparty #biglunch #community #kilburn #london #forthepeoplebythepeople
I’ve been a fan of @luscombedrinks for years now I’ve been a fan of @luscombedrinks for years now. They sent a selection: elderflower bubbly, st. Clements orange 🍊 Sicilian lemonade, @belvoirfarm_uk lemonade, which were all delicious and just the tickets for the fortuitous mini-heatwave that occurred on the Sunday coronation lunch. #thankyou #community #coronation #streetparty #biglunch
Our street party. Double page spread in The Sun! T Our street party. Double page spread in The Sun! Tiny bit in the guardian. Decent pic in the Mail and The Star credit @asproider #coronationlunch #kilburn #stcuthbertsrd #kingscroftrd #fordwychrd #templarhouse
My coronation quiche with Broad beans, tarragon, s My coronation quiche with Broad beans, tarragon, spinach, cheddar. I used crème fraiche and blind baked puff pastry shells. I was up at 11 last night making these for todays street party, which featured in the mail, telegraph, mirror, metro courtesy of photographer Gavin Rodgers @asproider
Seaweed foraging at Spring tides in the Outer Hebr Seaweed foraging at Spring tides in the Outer Hebrides with @outerhebrideanforager Fi bird. She’s cutting sea spaghetti. I drove my campervan @camperdays.international from london to the Hebrides- using my gas stove to cook foraged and local ingredients. A real food safari. With the sea spaghetti I made a sea spag vongole with giant parlourdes picked up from the sand at the same time. Great fun, beautiful weather and, the day of the full moon, a wonderfully low tide. This was on south Uist.
More flavours, the flavour thesaurus is a plant-ba More flavours, the flavour thesaurus is a plant-based version of the original. Beautifully constructed, designed and written by @nikisegnit it’s vegetarian rather than vegan but recommended for both. She widens the sensory vocabulary around plant flavours in this book- encouraging new delicious sounding combinations. Now she includes new categories such as flower & meadow, caramel roasted, zesty roost- just the words make me salivate. #foodbooks #bookstagram #newbooks
Yesterday I attended @marmaladeawards @dalemainman Yesterday I attended @marmaladeawards @dalemainmansion I found out so much about marmalade. I’m going to make it this winter. I found out the worlds best maker is Japanese, in fact I was most impressed by the Japanese marmalades in general. Everyone wore orange. I must have tasted 50 marmalades. I met Paddington’s sister, karen jankel who is michael bond’s daughter, born in the same year as Paddington. She gave a charming talk on Paddington, mentioning how the queen insisted on having real marmalade sandwiches in her @launerlondonofficial handbag during the shoot. The house itself is Tudor and Georgian. I stayed in my campervan from @camperdays.international in the car park, cosy in the rain. Another freewheeling adventure. #yorkshire #marmalade #travel #food #ontheroad #campervan
I had a piece in @thetimes on Sunday about being a I had a piece in @thetimes on Sunday about being a vegetarian rather than a vegan. How I still need butter. And how restaurants & plane meals are now vegan rather than vegetarian. But, there are still more the double amount of vegetarians as vegans in the UK. I’ve written a vegan cookbook V is for vegan (link in bio) and am a big fan of vegan foods. I’ve not eaten meat for over 40 years. This is a sustainable diet, in terms of longevity. Vegans that I knew from the early noughties have reverted to meat eating. #newpuritanism? #vegetarian #vegan #foodwriter
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I went to Wembley in north west london to talk to I went to Wembley in north west london to talk to Sophie of @tobia.teff she uses the iron-rich, gluten free teff grain from her homeland Ethiopia. She showed me how to make injera, the Ethiopian flatbread which is fermented. She also talked about the coffee ceremony, 3 cups, which they pair with toasted barley or, currently, popcorn! I’d love to visit Ethiopia and find out more about their ancient food culture, history, 3.5k year old monarchy and religions.
Doing a spring budget recipe cooking demo for @bre Doing a spring budget recipe cooking demo for @brentcouncil Willesden library. I’ve been doing this a few times a year for the last few years. Wouldn’t it be great if they had a kitchen set up permanently. Libraries are community centres and could be used to teach how to cook from scratch.
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