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How not to fuck up a Jansson’s Temptation

December 5, 2012 6 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized


Jansson’s Temptation is one of my favourite dishes. How can it not be? Floury potatoes, fried onions, thick cream and the umami boost of anchovies baked in the oven. I’m not sure however that the classic matchstick shape of the potatoes has the satisfactory mouthfeel, I’m also not too keen on how the anchovies turn the dish an unsightly grey. So I decided to thinly slice the potatoes à la gratin dauphinois and layer the anchovies on top in a criss-cross fashion, a bit like a pissasaladiere tart. This way it would look pretty as well as taste good.
So far so good. Things were going swimmingly until I decided to forgo the salted anchovies I usually use and go all authentic by using Swedish anchovies as recommended in Jeremy Lee’s recipe. I was ordering from Ocado’s Scandinavian section and now Swedish anchovies are easily available, plus they came in a really nice tin. Yippee!
I tasted one and they were er, raw and…sort of pickled. Swedish anchovies aren’t actually anchovies at all, they are sprats. Perhaps I should have listened to Annie Bell instead.
Many recipes for Jansson’s Temptation are mongrels, non-Nordic bastardisations. Recipes can’t even agree whether one should use floury or waxy potatoes.
I felt like I needed to get to the bottom of this, my primary question being: Swedish anchovies or not?
Last night I tested three Jansson’s Temptation recipes to see: one by Swedish author, Margareta Schildt-Landgren, therefore I guess, the most authentic. The second by Signe Johansen and the last created by myself.

The authentic Jansson’s Temptation recipe by Margareta Schildt-Landgren. Tasty but messy, bit dry at the top.

The Swedish author’s recipe was tasty but, as I said, not very attractive visually. It looked like a load of oven chips crammed into a baking tin. It was also rather dry at the top due to a lack of cream even though I covered it with foil and I used slightly less potatoes than she specified in her recipe. It did use Swedish anchovies, and this time, the sweetness of the pickled anchovy was, while unfamiliar, very effective.

Signe Johansen’s take on the Jansson’s Temptation.

Sig’s recipe worked very well, it had enough cream. On the inauthentic side, she went for the sliced rather than chipped potatoes, and her onions were pre-fried rather than raw as in the Swedish recipe. In the authenticity stakes, she also used Swedish anchovies.
My recipe used sliced potatoes and Italian anchovies. It was good, like a gratin dauphinois but felt like a safe option. It lacked the exotic tingle that the juniper and sugar-cured sprats give to the dish. The edges burnt so forgive the non-magazine standard photo, but the crunchy bits in the corners and bottom taste the best. (In fact I think they should just sell a plate of crunchy bits in restaurants, just like Koya, the noodle bar in Soho, sells a side of tempura crunchy bits.)

So here’s my final recipe, which is not entirely authentic, but uses Swedish anchovies, looks pretty and will not frighten the horses. As for the burning floury/waxy question, I still don’t know, the same debate ‘rages’ around the subject of Gratin Dauphinois (which I regard as one of my signature dishes). I would require another testing session for that but if readers have any comments on the type of potato please weigh in. I used floury Maris Piper potatoes.

Jansson’s Temptation

Enough for 4
Use a small baking dish of around 15 x 15 cms.

Unsalted butter to smear the baking tin
1 clove garlic, cut in half and rubbed around your baking tin
1 large brown onion, peeled and sliced thinly
1 kilo, which is the equivalent of 5 medium peeled, potatoes, peeled, thinly sliced.
1 x 600ml of double cream
1 jar of salted anchovies or anchovies in oil (drained)
1 jar of Swedish anchovies to be authentic.

Prepare the baking tin with butter and garlic.
Fry the onions till soft.
Layer the baking tin with neat overlapping rows of potato rounds. Do four thin layers and in between add some of the fried onions. After the second layer, add half of the anchovies.
Salt each layer slightly.
On top place the anchovies in criss-cross style.
Cover with foil and bake at 180 degrees centigrade for 30 minutes until a fork goes through the potatoes easily. Then uncover and bake for another 15 minutes.

Smaklig måltid!

 

 

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Comments

  1. Debstar

    December 6, 2012 at 8:14 am

    Sounds delicious. Do you pour all the cream over at the end or in between each layer?

    Reply
  2. theundergroundrestaurant

    December 6, 2012 at 12:51 pm

    I just pour it over at the end Debstar!

    Reply
  3. Crispy

    December 6, 2012 at 6:23 pm

    Sounds delicious, never knew about this before. Will be trying soon!

    Reply
  4. Anonymous

    November 12, 2013 at 10:01 am

    I don't bother frying the onions. Just slice them thinly. Also I use little dabs of butter in the layers and a little milk instead of cream. I am half Swedish.

    Reply
  5. Susan Lindquist

    September 27, 2014 at 2:12 pm

    My recipe has the pan rubbed with butter and garlic, then a layer of anchovies then layers of potatoes (matchsticks and caramelized onions, then heavy cream drizzled. The whole mess is topped with buttered bread crumbs and baked to bubbling crispiness … any way you go, those anchovies are Scandi …

    Reply
  6. Bobo Smith

    May 9, 2023 at 1:04 am

    Ok. I made this tonight with all the operative (and authentic) ingredients. Everything went as planned. Sliced my potatoes in sticks, fried some onions, added my Swedish anschovis and poured on a good deal of cream dotting the top with butter. 45-50 minutes later served and tasted it. INEDIBLE. And that’s coming from someone who loves all fish (and Yankee anchovies straight from the can) Besides the major gunkiness of the dish, the cream curdled and turned into little grey balls. I thought that this was going to send me to heaven food wise.
    I mean I love stuff like Kalles Kaviar and salt licorice (doppelzaut)

    Wrongo.

    Just for the books, anyone have any idea what I did wrong??

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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msmarmitelover

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Apple rose blossom tarts with rose jam. Rose Appl Apple rose blossom tarts with rose jam.  Rose Apple Blossom Tarts

Serves 8

Equipment: 
Microwave
Cupcake or muffin tin

I use a red-skinned apple to make these, to get a hint of blush at the edges of the ‘petals’.

Ingredients:
4 Pink Lady or Royal Gala apples, cored, cut into quarters, sliced thinly into half moons
1 lemon, squeezed
1 pack all butter readymade puff pastry 320g, on a roll, cut into 8 strips about 6 cms long
100g of melted butter
1/2 jar of rose jam
1 or 2 tbsp cinnamon or cardamom, ground 
Pinch maldon salt
2 or 3 tbsp icing sugar

Instructions

Prepare a bowl of acidulated water (cold water with lemon juice) to prevent browning.
Core the apples, and cut them in quarters. Slice thinly into half-moons (a mandolin is useful for this). 
Put them into a large bowl of cold water with the lemon.
Microwave the bowl of sliced apples for 5 minutes until soft enough to bend slightly but not cook them.
Preheat the oven to 180ºC.
Roll out the puff pastry. Divide into 8 sections by cutting the roll into quarters then halving each quarter. You will end up with 8 approximately 6cm strips.
Brush the strip with melted butter then paint with a layer of rose jam. You can then dust with either ground cinnamon or cardamom.
Lay the apple slices along the top of the pastry strip, overlapping them. Fold up the bottom half of the pastry strip to make an pleat with the skin side of the apple half moon poking over the top.
Roll up the folded pastry strips until they look like a rose made of apple at the top
Place ‘rose’ side up, in a buttered cupcake tin
Repeat until all are done and bake for 20 -30 minutes.
Using a tea strainer or small sieve, sprinkle with icing sugar.
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