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Food and drink in Alentejo, Portugal

November 26, 2013 10 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Starshine over Alentejo

A ‘dark skies’ area, the comet Ison can be seen from the clear skies of the Alentejo, high-tailing it past Venus. Alentejo is not where most tourists head when they go to Portugal; the bright coast of the Algarve or the windy hills of Lisbon, humming with Fado, tends to be the ticket. But for the food lover, Alentejo, south of Lisbon, inland, is the destination.

alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

I’m on a press trip with the usual flotsam and jetsam crew of bloggers catching some winter rays. We arrived last night and our guide explained how to recognise Manueline architecture, pointed out a carob tree, and took us to a pasteleria in Beja that makes Portuguese custard tarts with cream (most use milk) as well as other historic recipes developed by frustrated nuns forced into convents.* 

The desserts and pastries tend to be similar: egg yolk is a strong theme ingredient-wise. I’m shocked to discover the baker throws away the whites, around 1, 500 each day. I’m half-minded to set up a meringue shop next to her. Can’t bear waste. The Portuguese aren’t fans of meringues, she explains. The nuns used the egg whites to starch their habits, and in wine making. 

The waiter at the monastery hotel restaurant where we stay, asks me if I want brinjal to eat. 

Brinjal? Is that aubergine? 

The hindi word for Brinjal sounds the same in the Alentejo dialect ‘beringela’. You can see the Portuguese influence around the globe, still throbbing faintly after all these centuries. 

Portugal’s peak, in monetary terms and as a world power, was in the 15th and 16th centuries and things have sorta gone downhill from there. The Portuguese kings sponsored exploratory trips around the world, they discovered India, Macao, Brazil, Angola, and were the earliest trading partners with Japan. The Portuguese had the best ships, the smartest navigators, the choiciest trade routes. Portugal, the most westerly country in Europe, down the coast from Finisterre (the end of the world) looked out over the vast Atlantic Ocean every single day, wondering, dreaming, planning, calculating. The ships brought back wealth: spices, gold, silver, new plants, new animals. This nautical culture is celebrated in the details in the Manueline buildings; ropes carved from stone, bas reliefs of knots and astrolabs, compasses, constellations and stars.

Portugal is an older nation than Spain which was divided into mini-countries (Castilla, Galicia, Leon, Catalunia, Valencia) and was not unified with one language. Some say it still isn’t. Near the long Spanish/Portugese border, the Spanish speak a blended dialect. The Portugese language remains frustratingly difficult to decipher, even for a Spanish speaker, a running cord of szzzsh sounds, more Slavic than Latin.

Today Portugal is one of the poorest countries in Europe, while her younger richer fatter sister, Brazil, part of the BRIC set (Brazil, Russia, India, China) is booming. And within Portugal, Alentejo is a poor, dry region, with high unemployment. Which is possibly a good thing because nobody has had the money to fuck it up. 

The tourist will find shiny white cobbled villages with dashes of duck blue and butter yellow paint, castles teetering on hilltops, monasteries and nunneries, connected by tunnels, with babies bones turning to dust underneath, converted to cathedral-sized hotels. The houses are tiled on the outside, like ornate bathrooms, turned inside out. 

Today we visited Joana Roque and her daughters, who run a home bakery, a faggoty-flamed fire in her wood burning convex oven. She makes 40 sourdough loaves a day. She used to make thousands per week, but the local Portuguese prefer to buy bread from a supermarket. Fools. The bread is baked in front of us, a slow bake of one hour, I ask the temperature of the oven. She shrugs. Who knows? It works.

When it is shovelled out of the oven on a worn wooden peel, she cuts it into hunks, pours olive oil and brown sugar over it. The heat of the bread melts the sugar, while the olive oil knocks back the sweetness. It is divine. To be repeated at home.

Her daughter plucks pomegranates from the tree in the back yard, chickens squawk, bitter oranges tumble from branches, the sun streams through the beaded curtain. Joana rests her feet, her rosy swollen ankles in need of a rest. At 76, baking is very physical. Visit her house in Vidigueira.

home bakery, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Joana and her daughter kneading and preparing the bread
home bakery, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Baking the bread in the oven in her living room.
home bakery, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Joana Roque’s home bakery. This man is frustrated because she hasn’t got the special book to write a receipt for the bread he has bought. In Portugal if you are caught driving between cities without a bit of paper to prove that you paid tax on your purchase, you can be fined. Even for a micro-business like this.
home bakery, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Bread, sugar and olive oil

Olive oil is good for you. Astronauts drink it before going on a flight because it is helpful against radioactivity.We do an olive oil tasting in Moura. How you do it is this: a small amount is poured into a dark glass and a glass saucer is placed on top. You must not judge olive oil by the colour. Unlike wine, olive oil does not age. The newer the better. You warm the dark blue glass in your palms, so that the oil will soften and release odour. Remove the glass saucer. Take a big sniff. What do you get? Is there fruit? Is there spice? Is there mould? Then you taste, sucking it through your teeth. We taste three. Olive oil tastings have a maximum of 6 or 7 in a session. Wine tasters can do 40 different wines right off the bat. We feel the differing levels of greenness, of pepper hitting the throat, we are alert for any signs of rancid. Most farmers don’t know how to taste, explains our guide. It’s only recently that olive oil has become good, before it suffered from fermentation, but people are used to a ‘fusty’ taste. The difference between olive oil, virgin olive oil and extra virgin is that extra virgin must be without fault. Not a hint of fermentation. Extra virgin means very young. 

olive oil tasting. , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmiteloverolive oil tasting. , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
The olive oil tasting at Moura, where they have an olive oil museum.
olive oil tasting. , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Olive oil tasting at Herdade do Esporao

Alentejo has become fashionable with people from Lisbon as a weekend retreat. In the last decade it has turned over the land to growing wine; small bespoke vinyards using Port grapes blended with more traditional varieties. The whites I have tasted are bright and minerally, the reds are weighty, with blackberry notes and liquorice and mint.

An artificial lake was built in 2002, making Alentejo fertile and wine production has increased. I spoke to the winemaker & owner of Herdade do Sobrosa, Felipe Teixera Pinto (a Julio Iglesias lookalike but even more handsome) about his wines. Portuguese wines sell well in Brazil and more recently to Angola, he told me. We are selling also to China, but they want French wines, the Chinese think in terms of brand not taste.

You can’t buy any other nationality wines in France, I mentioned.

It’s the same here, we don’t buy French wines in Portugal, shrugged Felipe. We don’t sell that many in the UK, the taxes are so high.

I heard this from several wine makers in the Alentejo region. So much for European solidarity, successive UK governments use wine, because it’s nice, and because they want to punish and deprive us of anything nice in our lives, as a excuse to skin us. A good bottle of Portuguese wine, costing perhaps 5 euros, would cost more than £20 in the UK.

vineyard,, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
The autumn vines at Encostas de Estremoz after picking
, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
The romantic Herdade do Sobroso
, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Watching mass on the TV while tasting wines at Encostas de Estremoz.
Three things I’ve noticed about the Alentejo region:


1) They don’t put locks on toilet doors

2) They don’t put salt and pepper on the table.

3) They really love ornate lampshades and lamps.

Sunvil holidays sponsored this trip, they specialise in selecting unique places to stay. The herdade do Sobroso, just outside Vidigueira (herdade means ‘homestead’) was one of my favourites, roomy fireplaces, candlelit bathtubs, family style meals, Penny Royal (a popular herb in the region) liqueurs by the chimney. Cosy intimate luxury.

 alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Piri piri peppers on pegs. The Piri piri chilli pepper has had an interesting journey, from American to Portugal and then to Africa. This is the chilli they use in Nandos sauces.

convento do espinheiro,, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

 Another grand hotel, Convento Do Espinheiro, an ex monastery near Evora, they even have their own private church

Monsaraz cafe, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

 A cafe at the hill-top village of Monsaraz

castle,  alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

 Another hill top castle which we visited at sunset. We could see Spain from there.

cheese,, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

 Sheep and goat’s cheese are more common than cows cheese, due to lack of pasture

 , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

A curtained doorway in Monsaraz

kitchen,, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Portuguese kitchen, women chefs. They made this sweet pepper dish with garlic which was so delicious
Evora,, alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

 In Evora, the roman temple was filled in during the 14th century. It’s now been restored. Evora stems from the latin for ‘Yew’ tree, as is York in the UK.

sheepskin slippers , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

 Sheepskin slippers are cheap, I got a pair for 14 euros. These will be my ‘computer’ shoes this winter.

monsaraz, , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover

 The cobbled village of Monsaraz

 , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Wild asparagus for sale
dead birds. , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Birds on a wire
Giant pumpkins , alentejo, pic: Kerstin Rodgers/msmarmitelover
Squash wintering on a wall
If you want to visit the Alentejo region, check out these sites:
Sunvil Discovery (www.sunvil.co.uk), Alentejo Promotion Office (www.visitalentejo.pt/en) and TAP Portugal (www.flytap.com).

*We always think that it was the ultimate punishment ‘Get thee to a nunnery’. But some women joined nunneries because it was the only way they could be independent, run their own lives and not get married. It’s true however that many families who couldn’t afford to spend a fortune on their daughter’s dowries, found it was cheaper to place them in a nunnery, although they still had to contribute money to the church for their keep.

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Comments

  1. Zia

    November 26, 2013 at 5:35 pm

    Incredibly beautiful pictures –

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers

      November 26, 2013 at 8:25 pm

      Thank you Zia x

      Reply
  2. stickyfingers

    November 27, 2013 at 1:52 pm

    Kerstin, I absolutely loved this blog – brought wonderful memories of the absolute joy of the lovely Alentejo region back to me a good twelve years after I last visited. Beautiful, beautiful – I MUST get back there soon – people are so wonderful, food is amazing, the wild flowers, the cork trees, the bulls, the arid beauty. Heaven.

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers

      November 27, 2013 at 3:25 pm

      I would like to spend more time there, in a more leisurely fashion. It's always hard being on a group trip, with people who aren't interested in the same things. The cork trees! I'm going to write another post talking about the cork.
      Thanks for your comment Emma

      Reply
  3. Mario

    November 27, 2013 at 3:46 pm

    Nice article, but for the sake of accuracy, I must point out that Brazil is nowhere near richer than Portugal. Although it's booming and Portugal is in crisis mode, Portugal is by far richer (GDP) and way more developed than its former colony (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_countries_by_GDP_(PPP)_per_capita).

    Reply
  4. Kerstin Rodgers

    November 27, 2013 at 6:17 pm

    Thanks Mario for your interesting comment. I spent 3 months in Brazil in the late 80s and even then I was stunned at how rich it was in terms of infrastructure. Obviously there is a huge divide between rich and poor there. I also spent time in Salvador da bahia and the Sertao. But I thought that Brazil was even richer now? In terms of Europe, Portugal is one of the poorest countries I believe.

    Reply
  5. Mario

    November 28, 2013 at 10:47 am

    Yes, Kerstin, Portugal is a poor country when compared to the rest of Western Europe. It's the poorest in the region (perhaps not any more with the situation in Greece…). But it's a mistake to say it's one of the poorest in the continent. All of Eastern Europe is much poorer and less developed (Georgia, Armenia, Latvia, Estonia, Moldova, Ukraine, Belarus, Croatia, Czech Republic, Poland, Slovakia, Slovenia, Hungary, Albania, Bulgaria, Bosnia, Macedonia, Romania, Serbia, Montenegro…)

    Brazil has pockets of immense wealth, São Paulo is a major world business city, etc., but the country as a whole is "developing". It's also a rich country in terms of resources, but it's still a poor country. A large part of it, including in major cities like Rio and São Paulo's favelas is third world-like. The minimum wage is around 210 euros per month. The rich are very rich but they are a small minority. The middle class is growing, but facts are facts: saying that Brazil is richer than Portugal is absolutely incorrect. Not only is Portugal a richer, more developed country, it's much more so.

    I only point this out for the sake of accuracy because poor or rich, every country has its own kind of wealth, and as you pointed out in your post, even the poorer part of Portugal, the Alentejo, has its charms and little treasures.

    Reply
  6. Anonymous

    November 28, 2013 at 4:31 pm

    Oh for a bread oven in my living room. Really lovely post, Kerstin – I'm going to try that bread/olive oil/sugar combination as soon as my next loaf of sourdough is baked.

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers

      November 28, 2013 at 5:19 pm

      Thanks Michelle. I know how fab is that oven. My parents had an old cottage in France in my childhood and we had an oven like that attached to the fireplace. We never used it though, we didn't know how to.

      Reply
  7. John McCulloch

    December 22, 2013 at 1:38 am

    What a lovely post, brings me good memories of Portugal when I was there. As an Anglo-Brazilian living in Brazil, I am very fond of Portugal. I felt incredibly at home in Portugal due to the shared heritage between Portugal and Brazil, everything seemed so familiar. Mario is right in saying that Brazil is poorer than Portugal. I live here and have so for most of my life. Not only are we poorer, but Brazil is now NOT booming, contrary to what the media is putting out. Our government is criplingly corrupt, violence is rife, education is pathetic and access to health is severely limited. Don`t let the propaganda fool you. Brazilians are fed up with the injustice and principally, by all the opportunities missed by the govenment to ameliorate life for Brazilians. Yet somehow, in spite of our predicaments and appaling circumstances, we carry on as we can with as much patience and good humour as we may afford. The truth is that Brazil has always been neglected. By the Portuguese when they ruled, and then by the Brazilian elite after independence from Portugal (we then became an empire ruled by the decendents of the Portuguese Royal Family for 67 years almost until the 20th century). Proclamation of the republic made things worse, as only in Brazil could the monarchy have been overthrown for being too liberal! We have unfortunately inherited a 16th century colonialist mindset in which the riches of this vast land are seen as plunder by the few civil servants who happen to be in power. Sorry about the rant! Love your blog, and I hold on to a small pot of Marmite (we can`t get it in Brazil) which I sparingly and cerimoniously use as a treat on special days on toast until some saint brings me one more dose from a trip to England. Thanks for bringing me English and European culture every week!

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Midsummer supperclub 17th June book tickets here h Midsummer supperclub 17th June book tickets here https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsummer-supper-club-tickets-june-17th at London’s pioneering supper club. Tickets £50 BYO. Scandinavian inspired summery food. #supperclub #msmarmitelover #midsummer #northwestlondon #londonevents #popups
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Attended an incredible talk with @frenchpete_1 on Attended an incredible talk with @frenchpete_1 on war photography in the Ukraine . Go to the exhibition @thebppa @thebargehouse in SE1 last few days 
Had to stop filming cos I was told off. The photographers would be less forthcoming if they were filmed I was told. 
Anyway @frenchpete_1 should be followed by a camera crew cos he’s a star.
For yesterdays lunch I made a blue cheese puff pas For yesterdays lunch I made a blue cheese puff pastry quiche and a little one with less blue cheese & no salt for my 7 month old granddaughter. She absolutely loved it. I’m enjoying seeing her experience and explore new foods with baby led weaning. Avocado, strawberries, kiwi & buttered crumpets are a hit. Pasta less so. Who is this child? Are we even related? #babyledweaning #quiche #homemadepuffpastry
Nice to be featured as The Great Read in The natio Nice to be featured as The Great Read in The national newspaper again. These are the stories I love to do: I go off on an adventure, take my time, interview people (especially women), photograph them in their environment and create recipes on site. This story cost me a lot more than I made as I had an accident and lost my excess. My own damn fault though! Loved loved loved having a campervan. Thanks for lending me it @camperdays.international and sorry about the hole in the side.  https://www.thenational.scot/news/23505593.foraging-seaweed-western-isles/
My terrace on a sunny May morning. The builders @l My terrace on a sunny May morning. The builders @lk.general.building left yesterday. They’ve been working since January. I had the awning installed, the encaustic Minton tiles removed and put back with green grout. The terrace was causing damp so this had to be done. My calamondin plant is looking lovely. The benches which I repaired with hard wood & I repainted using a mix of 2 colours. The marble table I bought in Suffolk at a car boot. Everything is still dusty & I’m waiting for the window cleaner to arrive.
Last but very heartfelt thankyou to @cideriswine f Last but very heartfelt thankyou to @cideriswine for their contribution of these beautiful dry ciders for the coronation street lunch. Gorgeously illustrated labels. #stcuthbertsrd #kilburn #london #cider #artisanaldrinks
When it comes to vodka I much prefer potato vodka. When it comes to vodka I much prefer potato vodka. It’s smoother. Artisanal distillery @devoncovevodka contributed some bottles to my coronation lunch which gave everyone a feeling of being at a classy party. Thanks so much. And also @rawfoodanddrink for arranging. If you want to read my blog post about how and why I organised this event, copy and paste this link: https://t.co/GWNNW2XKba #coronationstreetparty #biglunch #community #kilburn #london #forthepeoplebythepeople
I’ve been a fan of @luscombedrinks for years now I’ve been a fan of @luscombedrinks for years now. They sent a selection: elderflower bubbly, st. Clements orange 🍊 Sicilian lemonade, @belvoirfarm_uk lemonade, which were all delicious and just the tickets for the fortuitous mini-heatwave that occurred on the Sunday coronation lunch. #thankyou #community #coronation #streetparty #biglunch
Our street party. Double page spread in The Sun! T Our street party. Double page spread in The Sun! Tiny bit in the guardian. Decent pic in the Mail and The Star credit @asproider #coronationlunch #kilburn #stcuthbertsrd #kingscroftrd #fordwychrd #templarhouse
My coronation quiche with Broad beans, tarragon, s My coronation quiche with Broad beans, tarragon, spinach, cheddar. I used crème fraiche and blind baked puff pastry shells. I was up at 11 last night making these for todays street party, which featured in the mail, telegraph, mirror, metro courtesy of photographer Gavin Rodgers @asproider
Seaweed foraging at Spring tides in the Outer Hebr Seaweed foraging at Spring tides in the Outer Hebrides with @outerhebrideanforager Fi bird. She’s cutting sea spaghetti. I drove my campervan @camperdays.international from london to the Hebrides- using my gas stove to cook foraged and local ingredients. A real food safari. With the sea spaghetti I made a sea spag vongole with giant parlourdes picked up from the sand at the same time. Great fun, beautiful weather and, the day of the full moon, a wonderfully low tide. This was on south Uist.
More flavours, the flavour thesaurus is a plant-ba More flavours, the flavour thesaurus is a plant-based version of the original. Beautifully constructed, designed and written by @nikisegnit it’s vegetarian rather than vegan but recommended for both. She widens the sensory vocabulary around plant flavours in this book- encouraging new delicious sounding combinations. Now she includes new categories such as flower & meadow, caramel roasted, zesty roost- just the words make me salivate. #foodbooks #bookstagram #newbooks
Yesterday I attended @marmaladeawards @dalemainman Yesterday I attended @marmaladeawards @dalemainmansion I found out so much about marmalade. I’m going to make it this winter. I found out the worlds best maker is Japanese, in fact I was most impressed by the Japanese marmalades in general. Everyone wore orange. I must have tasted 50 marmalades. I met Paddington’s sister, karen jankel who is michael bond’s daughter, born in the same year as Paddington. She gave a charming talk on Paddington, mentioning how the queen insisted on having real marmalade sandwiches in her @launerlondonofficial handbag during the shoot. The house itself is Tudor and Georgian. I stayed in my campervan from @camperdays.international in the car park, cosy in the rain. Another freewheeling adventure. #yorkshire #marmalade #travel #food #ontheroad #campervan
I had a piece in @thetimes on Sunday about being a I had a piece in @thetimes on Sunday about being a vegetarian rather than a vegan. How I still need butter. And how restaurants & plane meals are now vegan rather than vegetarian. But, there are still more the double amount of vegetarians as vegans in the UK. I’ve written a vegan cookbook V is for vegan (link in bio) and am a big fan of vegan foods. I’ve not eaten meat for over 40 years. This is a sustainable diet, in terms of longevity. Vegans that I knew from the early noughties have reverted to meat eating. #newpuritanism? #vegetarian #vegan #foodwriter
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