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Top ten places for food shopping in London

December 23, 2013 26 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

The entire country is out there, frantically packed into supermarkets, jamming up the car parks, tossing food and drink into their shopping trolleys, for the winter feast that is Christmas. In this post, I want to suggest a few alternatives. As a Londoner, I can only speak for London shops, but I’d love readers to suggest other fantastic shops, in London and elsewhere in the UK in the comments. These are my picks, not just for Christmas but any time of the year.
My advice when visiting these shops is to make a day of it. Have lunch there or nearby. Take big shopping bags and fill them with new exciting bottles and jars, exotic cookware, strange fruits. Generally they are so cheap that if you don’t like it, it’s no big deal. Talk to the shop keepers, ask questions, hell, I chat to the other customers, especially housewives who look like they have experience of cooking dinner for a large family for several decades. 

Italian:

Lina stores in Soho. Beautiful shop with pale green tiles, friendly knowledgeable service.
Clerkenwell used to be the Little Italy in London. Between 1880 and the First World War, hundreds of thousands of Italians moved here, including my great grandparents. My great grandfather worked for Carlo Gatti’s icecream makers. (My parents still live in Clerkenwell.) The clown Grimaldi also lived in Clerkenwell and has a blue plaque. There is an annual Italian festival in the area, centred around the Italian church, with swaying processions and statues of the Virgin Mary. More Little Italy history here.
In Clerkenwell, I recommend the Italian shop Gazzano’s,  known for Puglia bread.The shelves are a treasure trove of Italian foods. My parents shop there every week.
Also the vintage Continental Stores down the road in Kings Cross. Run by an elderly couple, they don’t have a great deal of stock by modern day standards, but it’s worth visiting just for the shop front. Unfortunately this is now closed. 🙁
Online Italian shopping:
Try this new company. Delicatezza, they sell fresh UK made burrata, bottarga and unusual stripey tortellini.

Food Halls:

Fortnum and Mason. Piccadilly.
It’s 300 years old, started by a royal footman from a spare room in his house, it eventually expanded into the most beautiful food shop, possibly in the world. It is not as expensive as you’d think. I once bought some heritage potatoes at Borough market, then discovered they were cheaper at Fortnums. It’s a pleasure to enter this old-fashioned food hall, with exquisitely packaged products, many of which are ‘own brand’, and frock-coated shop assistants. There is nowhere else like it. Interestingly, they employ an archivist on site and have bee hives on the roof in their company colours.
Selfridges, Oxford st:
It has become more adventurous, food-wise, over the last decade, bringing in people like Bompas and Parr to do food and drink installations on the roof, commissioning stunning foodie window displays and housing boutique restaurants. And of course, a fantastic spread of some of the most interesting food products from all over the world plus an essential selection of American foods.

Markets:

Broadway market, Saturdays, London Fields
I feel very envious of those living in Hackney having access to this now trendy but authentic street market. It’s actually quite recent, in the last five years, that it’s become a place to go. When I was squatting in London Fields pool in 2002-5, there wasn’t much happening yet. Cheaper than Borough and less corporate, it is the testing ground of many a famed street food producer including banhmi sandwiches, artisanally smoked salmon, Violet cakes to name but a few.
Borough Market, London Bridge
This was the first revival of the artisanal food markets,  but a victim of its success, and far too touristy on Fridays and Saturdays. Best go on a Thursday. Still got Neal’s Yard Dairy though, the best place for British cheeses, selling also Irish tea and Maggie Beer’s verjuice. Go early to Neal’s Yard, the queues at this time of year are horrendous.
Portobello Road Market, Ladbroke grove tube.
Mixed among the tourists and the Notting Hill set, this market remains a true working class street market, with hard as nails women (fake tans, plucked eyebrows, backcombed hair, glamour under their quilted jackets, these ladies are impervious to all weathers) shouting out bargains in authentic cockney. A wonderful mushroom man at the end, good fresh produce, some cheap deals to be had on cheese and chocolates.
Ridley Road Market: Dalston junction.
Turkish, Jewish and Caribbean foods, very cheap, a good bagel shop and a large branch of PartyParty.
Brixton Market:
Not just the market but also the arcades of hip Brixton village, a jumble of inexpensive exotic foreign produce, ‘jungle’ meat, fresh produce and tiny (in size and menu) restaurants on their first stepping stone from supper club or street food stall to high street domination. It’s the other end of London for me, so I rarely go but well worth a visit.

Asian food:

Wing Yip, Cricklewood.
This family run emporium started in Manchester and has a large branch in Cricklewood, near Staples Corner. Hence it’s only, realistically, reachable by car but they do also have online shopping. On Sundays this place is buzzing, with food tastings and a crowded restaurant. The prices are fantastically cheap and the staff are helpful. They even pack your bags for you. There is a wholesale section at the back, useful for buying in bulk. They also sell some Chinese cookware and tableware. The whole place smells faintly of Durian fruit, but sweetly not in a stinky-feet way. I love coming here, it’s an interesting trip in itself as you’ll discover new foods.
Chinatown:
There is a whole street of Chinese supermarkets. You find some weird stuff there. I wish they had food demonstrations and more English language explanations of some of the stranger products like the little black nuts (?) that look like vampires.
Mare Street:
After visiting Broadway market, you could graze around the Vietnamese supermarkets such as the Le Mi Supermarket and Video Store on Mare St.
Japan Centre, Shaftesbury Avenue:
Bloody expensive but intriguing with great quality sushi which you can eat in or takeaway. Try the soft texture tofu which is like cream, flown over from Japan. Excellent vegetable peelers for sale and loose leaf Japanese tea.
Natural Natural, Finchley Rd and Ealing Common
I go to this Japanese shop as it’s near me. The staff are very sweet and helpful, they have a cartoony notice saying ‘How do you eat these things? We are always happy to help you, from the natural natural staff’. On the fruit and veg stall outside, you can buy fresh burdock and lotus root plus everything is very carefully wrapped as if it were precious, even single carrots. In the chiller there is a large selection of fresh tofu in different textures from super silky to extra firm.

Middle Eastern food:

Persepolis, Peckham 
You will most likely be served by a flame haired woman, a cookbook author named Sally Butcher. I spent a day there helping out, which was great fun. Sally will happily talk about the food they sell and  can speak fluent Persian. People travel from all over the UK and Europe to buy their authentic imported Iranian foods, especially the flown-in pastries. A little counter, selling some of Sally’s food, is in the back.
Edgware road:
Plenty of fascinating food shops, all very good value, in this area which has become London’s Little Arabia. Green Valley supermarket is one good name that is bandied about. Afterwards you can dip into one of the cafés, have a mint tea or strong silty coffee and smoke a fruit tobacco hookah.

Indian:

V and B supermarket (Wembley and Southall)
I can spend hours here, photographing and taking notes: the sugar loaves, the open vats of pickle, the fresh spices. This whole area is worth a half day of your time: enamel bowls, bargain large saucepans for bulk cooking, chaat stalls, fresh ‘tinda’ (Indian pumpkins), dirt cheap buckets of creamy yoghurt, green curry leaves, thin wooden chapati rolling pins. You feel like you have travelled to India. Heaven.
Bangladeshi food shopping: find clay pots of date syrup, terracotta dishes of sweet yellow yoghurt, Bengladeshi lemons, big knobbly fragrant green things, large half crescents of green black beans, saffron hued betel nuts are to be found in the stalls and supermarkets just outside of Whitechapel tube.

Eastern European/Kurdish:

Where2save 352-354 Kilburn High Rd and Harlesden.
We used to have Food World in Kilburn, a treasure trove of unusual foods from around the world, crammed into one shabby supermarket. The landlord wanted to triple the rent so this local resource disappeared. Never mind! We now have Where2save a few doors up. Run by Kurds, this small shop is expanding every year. The range of their products, compared to a conventional supermarket, is impressive. How do you compete with the supermarkets? I asked the owner. By making sure that we stock different products to the big four, he replied. Their fruit and veg stall outside has fresh, good quality produce that puts supermarkets to shame. Every time I visit, I try a new Eastern European dairy product, or Brazilian tempera or one of the huge selection of inexpensive nuts. If I want a chowchow, some Georgian-style green plums, Turkish ‘sultana’ grapes, chervil, some tiny Indian limes for pickling, sour cherry fruit leather, this is where I go.
Speaking of Kilburn, a reader on Twitter has mentioned that Bestco supermarket is good. This is true, I’ve often found unusual foodstuffs there, including uncured olives. It has a wide selection of Middle Eastern, Eastern European, Brazilian and African foods. It’s open 24/7.

Grocers:

Newington Green, Newington Green, Islington.
Not only do they have super fresh, unusual fruit and veg, they use any spoiled or leftover fruit to make their own jams, chutneys and pickles (see comment below however). Extremely helpful staff who will carry to your car. An emotional paean to this shop is written by my fellow blogger Rocket & Squash.
Clifton Greens, owned by the same people but in Maida Vale. I bought some great food there, such as preserved mandarins in jars and fresh jalapeño peppers.
Andreas Veg in Chelsea,  probably the best quality fruit and vegetables in London. This is where the stars shop.

Caribbean food:

Blue Mountain Peak, Harlesden:
My Caribbean friends make the journey to this shop in murder mile in Harlesden to get authentic products. They’ve just gone online too, so everyone can order from them.
Hackney, Dalston and Brixton are also good areas for Caribbean food.

Mexican:

Casa Mexico is a beautiful shop in the East End run by a friendly older couple who live half the time in Mexico. I spent a small fortune there for my New Year’s Eve supper club. Here you can buy packs of corn husks for tamales, pinatas, imported tequila, large packets of dried pasilla chillies, mole, blue masa and giant black stone molcajetes for grinding your corn like a Mexican grandmother. 

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Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Mamacook

    December 23, 2013 at 3:25 pm

    Fantastic! Thank you. I have a friend who works near Southall, I've sent this on!!!

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 23, 2013 at 3:53 pm

      Southall is briliant too, but VB & Sons is in Wembley. Very similar to Southall. Lots of women in saris and winter coats.

      Reply
  2. Emma Julia

    December 23, 2013 at 6:40 pm

    For sheer surprise, for me it had to be Old Spitalfields Market, and Broadway Markets in Hackney on a Saturday. Delicious!

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 24, 2013 at 11:26 am

      Yes Old Spitalfields is good, but not so much for food? Broadway market is mentioned above, it's great.

      Reply
  3. Vanessa Kimbell

    December 24, 2013 at 3:59 am

    Shiva Shakti Foods is an amazing Asian Supermarket stocking lots of Gujarati food. Have the budget lunch at Bobbies then pop over the Road the the Jeram Music centre who stock a brilliant array of cookware.

    4-6 Macdonald Road
    Leicester
    Leicestershire
    LE4 5HD
    Fax: 0116 268 1622
    0116 268 1622 Add Review

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 24, 2013 at 11:25 am

      Thanks Vanessa, really useful!

      Reply
  4. Avni Kensington Hotel

    December 24, 2013 at 4:46 am

    Thanks for sharing a useful places for food shopping blog. London is one of the best city for shopping, visiting and foods.
    Click Here

    Reply
  5. Miri

    December 30, 2013 at 12:30 pm

    Thanks for this – I have just moved to Kilburn & already in love with Wing Yip and Bestco – will need to investigate where2save now! My all-time favourite grocers is All Seasons opposite Preston Road, excellent selection and very friendly (and attractive) staff.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      January 13, 2014 at 12:15 am

      Best co is pretty good too, they were rubbish but have improved. You can now get fresh uncured olives there and good fresh veg.

      Reply
  6. Anonymous

    January 5, 2014 at 6:57 pm

    Inspired me to look again at Where2Save – and to tell them they feature. Jamal was thrilled about it and didn't know. Michael

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      January 6, 2014 at 10:11 am

      Hi Michael,
      I did let the owner, is it Jamal? know. I told him to get a proper website!

      Reply
  7. Kavey

    January 12, 2014 at 1:50 pm

    Yes, completely agree, living in London we have so many more options than just the same old supermarkets… good to see such a comprehensive list.

    Re Broadway and Borough, I think if you'd asked me even 6 months ago, I'd have said same about Broadway feeling more authentic and Borough being victim of its own success but now I'd have to say it seems to have gone the other way. When I went to Broadway yesterday, there were so very many stalls selling food to eat there and then that there was much less room for stalls selling actual produce, the kind one might want to buy at a food market. Still enjoyable, but just felt packed packed packed, harder to approach stalls there than at Borough!
    Whereas the extensions / refurbs at Borough mean there's more space there now and seem to be so many stalls that really are all about the produce. Sure, the prices are higher than a basic market, but the quality and choice is just phenomenal. I genuinely think Borough is on the rise again, as a genuine foodie destination, not just a tourist trap.

    For Japanese, can I also add Atari-ya? The North Finchley branch, where I love, isn't huge but has a great range of Japanese fresh, dry and frozen produce, plus my favourite, the fresh fish counter, including sashimi grade fish, and I often buy trays of sashimi, choosing exactly how many pieces of each fish I want in the selection.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      January 13, 2014 at 12:14 am

      Hi Kavey, thanks for your comments. I haven't been to Borough for a few months so will check it out again. But I do think its prices are very high.
      Atari-ya….great recommendation.

      Reply
  8. youngandfoodish

    January 12, 2014 at 7:55 pm

    A fabulous list and beautifully illustrated. I will keep it bookmarked. Thanks so much, K.

    Just two points:

    1) Mr Bagel, the Ridley Road bagel shop, is no longer very good and hasn't been for some time.

    2) The incomparable Newington Green Fruit & Veg doesn't make its own jams and never did. I can see how this account took root, however: A local customer used to sell jams to the grocer with produce she purchased there but she moved away several years ago to South London.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      January 13, 2014 at 12:12 am

      Thanks, yes it's true, it's no longer as good as it was but then there are no very good bagel places in London. There are a couple near me in Cricklewood and they are 'ok'. The brick lane ones are merely 'ok' too. So I'm starting from a low baseline.
      The Newington Green place had loads of jams say 3 years ago? Their sister branch in Maida Vale definitely has preserves.
      Anyway, thanks for your comment Daniel
      x

      Reply
  9. Afro Caribbean Grocery Store

    June 26, 2014 at 3:22 pm

    Blue Mountain Peak is a family owned business establised in 1976 named after the world famous Blue Mountain in Jamaica, specialising in Afro-Caribbean Food Products from around the world. Over the years the company has gradually grown, with two retail outlets and one wholesale outlet for fresh fruit & veg. Blue Mountain Peak has now taken the step to provide it's specialist products online for everyone to enjoy.

    Reply
  10. Karen B

    August 4, 2015 at 8:40 am

    Fab list…thank you!

    Just wanted to add two locations:

    1) A lovely little Korean food store called Centre Point Food Store (71-75 New Oxford St London WC1A 1DG) where I indulge in their mayonnaise and Korean Red Pepper Powder, which I rub onto a chicken before roasting

    2) Bethnal Green Road has a series of supermarkets between St Matthew's Row and Wilmot Street that has lots of Indian supermarkets. Everything you need from fruit, veggies, pulses and spices to host a curry night.

    Hope these help.

    K

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      August 4, 2015 at 9:58 am

      thanks Karen. Yes I've been to some of those shops on Bethnal Green Rd…very good!

      Reply
    • Gavin

      December 4, 2015 at 1:21 pm

      Think Centre Point Food Store's moved to 20-21 St Giles High St, London WC2H 8LN. That whole little bit of London around St Giles has been utterly fucked up by the Crossrail Development at Tottenham Court Rd station.

      Reply
  11. madamchocolat

    December 8, 2015 at 3:27 pm

    This is a great blog piece and I love the illustrations – who are they by?

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      December 8, 2015 at 5:19 pm

      I used an app on photos to create this .

      Reply
  12. Lisa Cookwitch

    December 20, 2015 at 6:19 am

    Thanks for this!

    (Continental Stores in Kings Cross has closed now. He FINALLY retired, as the rent forced him out. This is my saddest face ever, as I loved that shop.)

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      January 5, 2016 at 11:35 pm

      I did hear that, thanks, I will edit the post.

      Reply
  13. Ann

    May 5, 2016 at 4:24 pm

    Eat in Italy online shop sell Italian products too…mostly organic
    http://eat-in-italy.co.uk/shop/

    Reply
  14. Victor Tavares

    February 9, 2017 at 7:05 pm

    Fantastic a real ethnic tour of London. I'm also into ethnic seafood products, namely salted and dried fish. London is a great place for food. Thanks for sharing.

    Reply

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  1. The Long Lunch Interview: Bee Wilson, The Way We Eat Now says:
    March 8, 2020 at 10:17 pm

    […] I talked to the shopkeeper of Where 2 Save, I’ve written about him as well. I asked: ‘What’s your technique?’ because they have so much different stuff and […]

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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My next supper club 17th June london tickets £50 My next supper club 17th June london tickets £50 BYO book here: https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsummer-supper-club-tickets-june-17th #london #supperclub #msmarmitelover #midsummer
For tonight’s event I had to push the boundaries For tonight’s event I had to push the boundaries. Here is how to prepare goose neck barnacles or percebes which are a very expensive and rare delicacy, hunted down from cliffs. It’s quite dangerous to forage them. #canapes #eventcatering #satanicfood #percebes #grossfood #seafood #devilsfood
Midsummer supperclub 17th June book tickets here h Midsummer supperclub 17th June book tickets here https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsummer-supper-club-tickets-june-17th at London’s pioneering supper club. Tickets £50 BYO. Scandinavian inspired summery food. #supperclub #msmarmitelover #midsummer #northwestlondon #londonevents #popups
Tina sweating through a gig at Brixton academy cir Tina sweating through a gig at Brixton academy circa 1987 pic: kerstin Rodgers #rip #tinaturner #rockphotographer #kerstinrodgers #teenagephotographer
Attended an incredible talk with @frenchpete_1 on Attended an incredible talk with @frenchpete_1 on war photography in the Ukraine . Go to the exhibition @thebppa @thebargehouse in SE1 last few days 
Had to stop filming cos I was told off. The photographers would be less forthcoming if they were filmed I was told. 
Anyway @frenchpete_1 should be followed by a camera crew cos he’s a star.
For yesterdays lunch I made a blue cheese puff pas For yesterdays lunch I made a blue cheese puff pastry quiche and a little one with less blue cheese & no salt for my 7 month old granddaughter. She absolutely loved it. I’m enjoying seeing her experience and explore new foods with baby led weaning. Avocado, strawberries, kiwi & buttered crumpets are a hit. Pasta less so. Who is this child? Are we even related? #babyledweaning #quiche #homemadepuffpastry
Nice to be featured as The Great Read in The natio Nice to be featured as The Great Read in The national newspaper again. These are the stories I love to do: I go off on an adventure, take my time, interview people (especially women), photograph them in their environment and create recipes on site. This story cost me a lot more than I made as I had an accident and lost my excess. My own damn fault though! Loved loved loved having a campervan. Thanks for lending me it @camperdays.international and sorry about the hole in the side.  https://www.thenational.scot/news/23505593.foraging-seaweed-western-isles/
My terrace on a sunny May morning. The builders @l My terrace on a sunny May morning. The builders @lk.general.building left yesterday. They’ve been working since January. I had the awning installed, the encaustic Minton tiles removed and put back with green grout. The terrace was causing damp so this had to be done. My calamondin plant is looking lovely. The benches which I repaired with hard wood & I repainted using a mix of 2 colours. The marble table I bought in Suffolk at a car boot. Everything is still dusty & I’m waiting for the window cleaner to arrive.
Last but very heartfelt thankyou to @cideriswine f Last but very heartfelt thankyou to @cideriswine for their contribution of these beautiful dry ciders for the coronation street lunch. Gorgeously illustrated labels. #stcuthbertsrd #kilburn #london #cider #artisanaldrinks
When it comes to vodka I much prefer potato vodka. When it comes to vodka I much prefer potato vodka. It’s smoother. Artisanal distillery @devoncovevodka contributed some bottles to my coronation lunch which gave everyone a feeling of being at a classy party. Thanks so much. And also @rawfoodanddrink for arranging. If you want to read my blog post about how and why I organised this event, copy and paste this link: https://t.co/GWNNW2XKba #coronationstreetparty #biglunch #community #kilburn #london #forthepeoplebythepeople
I’ve been a fan of @luscombedrinks for years now I’ve been a fan of @luscombedrinks for years now. They sent a selection: elderflower bubbly, st. Clements orange 🍊 Sicilian lemonade, @belvoirfarm_uk lemonade, which were all delicious and just the tickets for the fortuitous mini-heatwave that occurred on the Sunday coronation lunch. #thankyou #community #coronation #streetparty #biglunch
Our street party. Double page spread in The Sun! T Our street party. Double page spread in The Sun! Tiny bit in the guardian. Decent pic in the Mail and The Star credit @asproider #coronationlunch #kilburn #stcuthbertsrd #kingscroftrd #fordwychrd #templarhouse
My coronation quiche with Broad beans, tarragon, s My coronation quiche with Broad beans, tarragon, spinach, cheddar. I used crème fraiche and blind baked puff pastry shells. I was up at 11 last night making these for todays street party, which featured in the mail, telegraph, mirror, metro courtesy of photographer Gavin Rodgers @asproider
Seaweed foraging at Spring tides in the Outer Hebr Seaweed foraging at Spring tides in the Outer Hebrides with @outerhebrideanforager Fi bird. She’s cutting sea spaghetti. I drove my campervan @camperdays.international from london to the Hebrides- using my gas stove to cook foraged and local ingredients. A real food safari. With the sea spaghetti I made a sea spag vongole with giant parlourdes picked up from the sand at the same time. Great fun, beautiful weather and, the day of the full moon, a wonderfully low tide. This was on south Uist.
More flavours, the flavour thesaurus is a plant-ba More flavours, the flavour thesaurus is a plant-based version of the original. Beautifully constructed, designed and written by @nikisegnit it’s vegetarian rather than vegan but recommended for both. She widens the sensory vocabulary around plant flavours in this book- encouraging new delicious sounding combinations. Now she includes new categories such as flower & meadow, caramel roasted, zesty roost- just the words make me salivate. #foodbooks #bookstagram #newbooks
Yesterday I attended @marmaladeawards @dalemainman Yesterday I attended @marmaladeawards @dalemainmansion I found out so much about marmalade. I’m going to make it this winter. I found out the worlds best maker is Japanese, in fact I was most impressed by the Japanese marmalades in general. Everyone wore orange. I must have tasted 50 marmalades. I met Paddington’s sister, karen jankel who is michael bond’s daughter, born in the same year as Paddington. She gave a charming talk on Paddington, mentioning how the queen insisted on having real marmalade sandwiches in her @launerlondonofficial handbag during the shoot. The house itself is Tudor and Georgian. I stayed in my campervan from @camperdays.international in the car park, cosy in the rain. Another freewheeling adventure. #yorkshire #marmalade #travel #food #ontheroad #campervan
I had a piece in @thetimes on Sunday about being a I had a piece in @thetimes on Sunday about being a vegetarian rather than a vegan. How I still need butter. And how restaurants & plane meals are now vegan rather than vegetarian. But, there are still more the double amount of vegetarians as vegans in the UK. I’ve written a vegan cookbook V is for vegan (link in bio) and am a big fan of vegan foods. I’ve not eaten meat for over 40 years. This is a sustainable diet, in terms of longevity. Vegans that I knew from the early noughties have reverted to meat eating. #newpuritanism? #vegetarian #vegan #foodwriter
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I went to Wembley in north west london to talk to I went to Wembley in north west london to talk to Sophie of @tobia.teff she uses the iron-rich, gluten free teff grain from her homeland Ethiopia. She showed me how to make injera, the Ethiopian flatbread which is fermented. She also talked about the coffee ceremony, 3 cups, which they pair with toasted barley or, currently, popcorn! I’d love to visit Ethiopia and find out more about their ancient food culture, history, 3.5k year old monarchy and religions.
Doing a spring budget recipe cooking demo for @bre Doing a spring budget recipe cooking demo for @brentcouncil Willesden library. I’ve been doing this a few times a year for the last few years. Wouldn’t it be great if they had a kitchen set up permanently. Libraries are community centres and could be used to teach how to cook from scratch.
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