• Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Snapchat
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

MsMarmiteLover

  • Food
    • Recipes
    • Vegetarian
    • Vegan
  • Travel
    • France
    • Italy
    • Spain
    • UK
  • Wine
  • Gardens
  • Supperclubs/Events
  • About
    • Published Articles
    • Books
  • Shop
    • Cart

Suffolk food and drink: Hillfarm rapeseed oil, Aspall cider and Aldeburgh food festival

October 1, 2014 15 Comments Filed Under: Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

This blog was called The English Can Cook. The reason for this title was because, during the seven years I lived in France, many patronising and denigrating comments were made about British food. I don’t write much about British food, partly because I don’t cook or eat meat and many dishes contain meat. (But I think that we are world beaters when it comes to dessert or puddings.) But the reason the French are famous for their sauces is because they needed to hide the poor quality of their produce. British food may be plain in comparison but this is due in part to the high standards of our produce, we never needed to disguise it!
This last weekend I visited the county of Suffolk, a couple of hours away by train from London. I went to the Aldeburgh food festival, to Hillfarm and to Aspall, the ‘cyder’, apple juice and vinegar producers.

Aldeburgh Food Festival:

 Clockwise from top left: Valentine Warner with Diana Henry; Mr Bees Suffolk honey; hedgerow cordial bar; Edible hedging; VW icecream van; lady enjoying the countryside; microbrewery; Hundred River farm Suffolk hand-made butter; a view of the scene (centre).

Clockwise from top left: raw milk from Fen Farm Dairy; pickled egg competition; Pump Street Bakery van; the guys that ran Naturorange selling candied orange (centre); Hodmedods roasted peas which were delicious; one of the Hodmedods creators; Hodmedods range, I like their packaging; Saffron flour made from Norfolk saffron, I bought this.

Hillfarm oils



“We need to challenge the olive”, said farmer Sam Fair of Hillfarm Oils. He grows, cold-presses, bottles and sells rapeseed oil. Rapeseed oil has a fairly neutral taste and contains eleven times more Omega 3 than olive oil. The high amount of vitamin E enables the absorption of the Omega 3, but vitamin E degrades in sunlight, which is why Hillfarm rapeseed oil is in a dark glass bottle. Although the latest word on saturated fats is that they are not all bad – for instance, coconut oil is very high in saturated fats but the good kind – rapeseed oil is lower in saturated fats than olive oil. Rapeseed oil also has a higher burn point than olive oil, it doesn’t smoke when you use it for roasting for instance. As it is thinner than olive oil, less viscous, when frying, it makes vegetables crispier quicker.
Rapeseed oil is a good neutral oil (although it is a brassica, so some people may detect a mustardy taste) to use in cooking, and importantly it is a British product. Sam Fairs gets frustrated with the amount of money that the European Union spends on promoting olive oil, about 15 million pounds a year. Some olive oil is quite poor quality, so it’s worth expanding one’s repertoire of oils.

Rapeseed oil is a British cooking oil.
Olive oil comes from mainland Europe and can be overused today. Rapeseed oil is our local oil. Every part of the rapeseed plant can be used: the leaves for greens and the seeds for the oil. In culinary terms, it is particularly good for stir frying and baking. I use it to make vegannaise.

Below: we did a comparative oil tasting: vegetable oils, palm oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil both cold-pressed and cheapo versions that are adulterated and called rapeseed oil. The big surprise was the Jamie Oliver ‘light’ olive oil, which was tasteless.

I’ve heard rapeseed crops are a bad thing?

The growing of rapeseed, known as canola in the United States, has been demonised for causing allergies and is a crop that needs the use of pesticides such as neonicotinoids, which has led to a drop in the bee population. (From December this year the EU will ban this pesticide.) More pesticides of this nature are required after a hot summer such as this year. Here it is grown in heavy Suffolk clay, which retains moisture.

It’s a tough life being a farmer

Being a farmer is a risky business: it’s expensive, a combine harvester costs 300,000 pounds. This machine enables the farmers to plough and thresh 130 acres of rapeseed a day. (An acre is the amount the average horseman can plough in a day.)
Sam is concerned about the lack of young farmers coming into the business, only 3% of farmers are under 45. “You need a lot of money to start up”. There were County Council Farms for young farmers leaving agricultural college but these are being closed down or sold off.
When the weather is good, the combine harvester works late into the night and they work 7 days a week in the season. “I don’t want it to stop”, says Sam. “If the driver needs a break, I’ll climb in and take over”.
I tried the seat in the enormous machine, it is very comfortable and springy. “You need that, they spend hours in that seat”, explained Sam. Normally the cab is littered with cans of red bull “to stay awake”, says Sam’s wife, Clare. The combine harvester is like a lawn mower, if it’s damp it won’t cut the rapeseed so any chance they get, when the rapeseed is ready, they are in the fields to gather the crop. Nature waits for no one. This year Sam will make a loss, he took a chance and hoped that the price of his crop would go up, it didn’t, losing a third of its value. In terms of commodity prices, it is worth £100 a ton, but it costs £130 a ton to grow it.
The great thing about starting a business like this is that Clare Fairs gets to join in the business, developing recipes and doing demonstrations. “I get to see more of Sam”, she says.

The brothers, Barry and Henry Chevallier Guild, who run Aspall, standing outside the manor.
English apple juice, tart but sweet.

Aspall History

Cider or Cyder, as an ancestor, Clement Chevallier, in 1729, called it, used to be so celebrated in Europe that it was regarded as better than wine. We seem to have lost the habit of drinking cider. I visited the Aspall manor in Sussex, the glorious seat of this family, the Chevalliers, who can trace their ancestors back to the 15th century. They count Lord Kitchener amongst their forebears. Brothers Barry and Henry Chevallier Guild invited me into their beautifully appointed living room where we looked at slides and videos of Aspall history. It was a bit like being shown the family photo album and old home movies, but this time of a particularly interesting and illustrious family. I watched sweet black and white footage of Henry and Barry as blond headed children in shorts, picking apples; their feminist grandmother Perronelle, determined to make a success of the business, one of the first women to attend agricultural college and a founder member of the Soil Association; the creator of their cyders, Harry Sparrow, after whom of their cyders is named, recounting the tragic years of world war one, where he served as a malnourished soldier.

British Cyder

Aspall are reviving the art of cider, making a range of ciders in different styles, from effervescent to flat, from sweet to dry, and a return to an original type of still cider, sold in English taverns of old, ‘cyderkyn’. At the moment the market is being flooded with cheap Polish apples, as they can no longer sell them to Putin’s Russia. Aspall only use British apples, using those that are not deemed good enough to sell in supermarkets because they are “too green, too red, too big, too small, not the right shape”.

British vinegar

They also make vinegars ranging from apple cyder to an apple balsamic as well as the classic red, white, malt and balsamic vinegars. I use their cyder vinegars to make pickled apple relish, for instance. I talked to Henry about creating a British verjuice, something I regularly use in cooking.

I went with a large party of bloggers on this trip: virtually everyone fancied the whiskered and handsome Henry Chevallier Guild while making noises about ‘always having wanted a man with a moat’. It was nice to hang out with these ladies; the breadth of knowledge about food amongst food bloggers is equal to that of any food writer.

Recent posts

Soup recipes for a broken arm

February 26, 2025

The future of farming

January 20, 2025

Poppy seed kifli pic: KERSTIN RODGERS

Hungarian poppy seed pastry ‘Kifli’ recipe

November 5, 2024

Previous Post: « Our food at the British Street Food awards in Leeds
Next Post: How to make a wedding cake »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Zia Mays

    October 1, 2014 at 1:45 pm

    I really like rapeseed oil (I've just checked and it is indeed Hillfarm's oil in the cupboard), especially for salad dressings, but shallow frying as well.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      October 1, 2014 at 7:54 pm

      Yes much as I love olive oil, sometimes you don't want that flavour.

      Reply
  2. Cate Lawrence

    October 1, 2014 at 5:25 pm

    i bought rapeseed oil here in Germany the other day ( I didn't realise it is the same as what we call Canola in Australia). It's half the price of olive oil 🙂

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      October 1, 2014 at 7:53 pm

      Canola is the Australian name as well? It is much cheaper that's true.

      Reply
    • Wilhelm Link

      October 20, 2014 at 5:39 am

      Be careful what you buy though: Hillfarm's (and others like them) rapeseed oil is cold-pressed, which is a low-yield very simply extraction method it retains all of its inherent flavour, colour and "goodness". As a result of this small-scale and low-yield extraction method, cold-pressed rapeseed oil usually retails at a similar price point to that of cold-pressed olive oils (around £5 for 500ml in the UK). A lot of the rapeseed and canola oil that is commonly found on supermarket shelves is, however, a completely different kettle of fish: It undergoes a so-called RBD (refined, bleached and deodorised) process which maximises the oil yield from each seed and results in a much blander, paler and nutritionally inferior type of oil, which, as it has been produced on an industrial scale, benefits from enormous economies of scale which result in it being one of the cheapest vegetable oils around for consumers. The two oils, "cold-pressed" and "RBD" are therefore very different!

      Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      October 20, 2014 at 9:25 am

      Thanks Wilhelm, very true. Don't buy the cheap shit people!

      Reply
  3. Aj

    October 1, 2014 at 6:25 pm

    Another Great Blog K. Very interested in the rapeseed oil, got a bottle in just recently and it's going well.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      October 1, 2014 at 7:54 pm

      thank you Aj. I do like to vary my oils. For instance in carrot salad, I used to buy an oil high in carotene, it was orange, like palm oil. They don't seem to sell it anymore.

      Reply
  4. Jill Day

    October 3, 2014 at 9:41 pm

    Thanks for the timely reminder about alternatives to olive oil and balsamic. Off to seek out cold pressed rapeseed oil and apple balsamic. I wonder if they sell it in Bermuda? (Natal plums are ripening. Hope to follow your SA suggestions soon.)

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      October 5, 2014 at 7:57 pm

      They probably sell apple cider vinegar but apple balsamic is v unusual Jill

      Reply
  5. Urvashi

    October 11, 2014 at 5:11 pm

    It was indeed a lovely weekend of tastings and learnings. I felt privileged to be part of the group and get an insider peek into both companies. Love British family businesses. I too bought the Norfolk Saffron Flour and used it last weekend in a saffron and pistachio cake. Was awesome. Well worth the £5 pricetag

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      October 11, 2014 at 8:50 pm

      I'm still trying to decide what to make with mine. But saffron and pistachio sounds gorgeous!

      Reply
  6. May EatCookExplore

    November 22, 2014 at 2:00 pm

    That was a very educational trip and am so impressed with the range of passionate food producers in Suffolk. Lots of inspiring products to test now.

    Reply
  7. theundergroundrestaurant

    November 22, 2014 at 2:08 pm

    Thanks for commenting May. I found the trip a bit rushed. To do the cider/vinegar and the oil on the same day meant that my concentration started to drift in the afternoon…

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. Black Bean and Butternut Squash Tacos with Hillfarm Oil Salad Dressing - The Botanical Kitchen says:
    August 12, 2020 at 7:58 pm

    […] Suffolk food and drink: Hillfarm rapeseed oil, Aspall cider and Aldeburgh food festival (msmarmitelover.com) […]

    Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Primary Sidebar

MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover

msmarmitelover

Went with influencers to @standrewslakes in Kent w Went with influencers to @standrewslakes in Kent with @ourfinland @lakelandfinland @pcagency to experience Finnish food such as Karelian pies with egg butter, cinnamon buns, blueberry pies, and pea soup which they have with mustard and sour cream. We did zip lining, kayaking, saunas, whipped ourselves with birch sticks, ate in a gorgeous wooden bbq shed @arctic_cabins at the end of all this activity we were all tired but happy. @miramakeup @holidaywiththeheathers @amie_jane__ @onehungryasian @iamtimchung @travellingtuesdays @helimendetravels @charlotteemilyprice #presstrip
@camille.osullivan @camilleosullivanpics and @grah @camille.osullivan @camilleosullivanpics and @grahnort @wiltonsmusichall god this woman is talented. She did a solo show of The Rape of Lucrece. Her voice! #theatre #shakespeare #london
My latest article on Hungarian cuisine, a unique m My latest article on Hungarian cuisine, a unique meeting of east and west, for @ckbk It's a blend of Ottoman, Eastern and middle European, Austro-Hungarian empire and cowboy food. #food&travel #foodanthropology #hungary
Made Fermented Cucumber dill pickles from @nickvad Made Fermented Cucumber dill pickles from @nickvadasz book The Pickle Jar. At @katzsdeli in New York they sell half sours and full sours. I reckon these are 3/4 sour. The white mould is fine btw. These are delicious #pickleperson #fermentation #guthealthy
London in bloom: wisteria, cherry blossom, lilac, London in bloom: wisteria, cherry blossom, lilac, plum blossom, 🌸 you don’t need to go to Japan for the Sakura season- it’s all here- london at its most beautiful. #london
Bluebell walk on Wanstead flats. The scent is incr Bluebell walk on Wanstead flats. The scent is incredible: similar to lily of the valley. These are actual English bluebells - a deeper colour & more delicate than Spanish bluebells which are rather invasive. #london #walks #april #bluebells
Snapshots from portobello rd market. Portuguese fo Snapshots from portobello rd market. Portuguese folar de pascua bread from Lisboa patisserie,  a gorgeous mosaic table from Fez, my favourite antique shop @muirshindurkin, Alice’s shop, an Easter hat, the best wisteria I wrote a substack on portobello road: https://open.substack.com/pub/kerstinrodgers/p/where-to-go-in-portobello-road-the?r=3873k&utm_campaign=post&utm_medium=web&showWelcomeOnShare=true #london
I visited @tokyobagellondon with my granddaughter I visited @tokyobagellondon with my granddaughter yesterday to try one of their viral wobbly bunnies. We also tried the multi layer Oreo pancake cakes, the onigiri shaped croissant. My sister had the black sesame latte and I had yuzu tea. I spent £35 in a short space of time as each dessert was £5 but it was a fun experience. Ophelia said ‘lovely flowers’ which shows a degree of sophistication for a 2 year old. I preferred the strawberry to the coconut flavour . #londondaysout #grandmacore #easter
A quick high protein lunch of ratatouille with smo A quick high protein lunch of ratatouille with smoked tofu.  @pomoragoodfood olive oil then an aubergine cut into thick slices then quartered. Fry till translucent then add the chunks of red pepper. 2 fat garlic cloves sliced thinly, a block of smoked tofu in chunks, 2 bay leaves, a small handful of maldon salt. A courgette cut into thick half lengthways- then sliced into half moons. I might chuck in a handful of pantelleria capers in vinegar to give some acidity. Serve hot or cold. #sololunch #protein #vegetables
Inspired by @nickvadasz book The pickle Jar I used Inspired by @nickvadasz book The pickle Jar I used his dill pickles to make one of my favourite recipes for lunch - a potato, sour cream & pickle soup. Recipe on the blog. #soup #pickles
One of my favourite ways to eat mushrooms. Cook wh One of my favourite ways to eat mushrooms. Cook whole button mushrooms in olive oil, lemon juice, a little white wine vinegar, salt, bay leaves, whole coriander seeds, thyme, and white wine if you have it to hand. I used @pomoragoodfood olive oil. You can eat it straight away or leave it to marinate longer and eat the next day. #vegetarian #vegan #mushroomrecipe
Table side Caesar salad @maisonfrancois for @sienn Table side Caesar salad @maisonfrancois for @siennamarla birthday 🎂 #london #restaurants #caesarsalad
I went to sheffield to visit the @reclaimedbrickco I went to sheffield to visit the @reclaimedbrickcompany to look at their hand cut, wire cut and tumbled bricks for a herringbone patio. I love the historical aspect of bricks, the different quarries from different parts of the country. #patio #englishhistory story
Made brussel sprouts with pistachio pesto. The pis Made brussel sprouts with pistachio pesto. The pistachios came from Brontë in Sicily- they are the best pistachios in the world. You can make pesto with any nut: it’s usually with pine nuts but I’ve used hazelnuts, almonds (trapani), walnuts. #vegetarian #pesto #bronte
Bathroom palette: @firedearthuk scallop tiles @top Bathroom palette: @firedearthuk scallop tiles @toppstiles honed white marble skirting and dado @paintandpaperlibrary paint @sanderson1860 wallpaper this is my first rodeo when it comes to bathroom design. Follow my progress
Yesterday I cooked ( needed help with heavy pans a Yesterday I cooked ( needed help with heavy pans and pouring) pesto alle genovese. Made pesto in the vitamix: fresh basil leaves, 4 cloves garlic, 100g pecorino, 100g pine nuts, 150ml olive oil, salt, and juice of half a lemon. Whizz up.  Then cook the pasta - traditional shape is trofie but I only had fusilli. Top with small boiled potatoes and steamed green beans. Douse again with olive oil and more pine nuts. I served this with green salad with cucumber, avocado, pumpkin seeds and a mustard lemon olive oil dressing. #familylunch #sundaylunch #pestopasta #pestgenovese
Unstyled food photos no.4: butternut squash soup. Unstyled food photos no.4: butternut squash soup. Peel and cut up the butternut squash. Discard the seeds. Roast with olive oil, salt, smoked paprika in the oven for 30 minutes. Soften 2 brown onions in a deep pan with olive oil, add 3 cloves garlic minced, 3 bay leaves. Then add the veg stock powder and 1.5 litres hot water to the pan. Stir. Pour in the roast butternut squash. Cook for 10 minutes. Then remove the bay leaves and blend. Add 3 large scoops of natural yoghurt or skyr. Season to taste. Transfer back to the deep pan and serve with grated cheese, pumpkin seeds, chilli. 🌶️ #vitamix #soup #winterfood #agacooking
Unstyled food photos #3: roast cauliflower & garli Unstyled food photos #3: roast cauliflower & garlic cheese soup. Roast the cauliflower florets, unpeeled garlic cloves, one chopped brown onion in olive oil. Once golden, tip into a saucepan with a potato chopped small, 3 tbsps veg stock and 1.5 litres hot water. Boil till soft the. Add 100g cheddar. Stir then blend in a blender. Serve with grated cheese on top. #soup #vitamix #winterfood #cookingwithonehand #simplerecipes
Unstyled food photos: whole roast cauliflower with Unstyled food photos: whole roast cauliflower with ground almond crust, yoghurt, cumin, lemon juice and tahini sauce using @pomoragoodfood olive oil. First I parboiled the cauliflower then roasted it for 30 to 30 minutes with salt and olive oil in the oven. Add the ground almonds and bake for another 10 minutes. Then serve hot with the sauce. #highprotein #lowcarb #vegan #vegetarian #glutenfree
Unstyled food photos: carrot and preserved lemon s Unstyled food photos: carrot and preserved lemon soup. I’m eating a lot of soup as it’s easy to make with one hand and a vitamix. I roasted the carrots ( 1 kilo) in olive oil. Then boiled them with 2 tbsp veg stock, 1 tsp ground coriander, 1 tsp ground cumin and 2 litres hot water. For a thicker soup, add 1 tbsp of cornflour mixed with the stock juice and add. Once tender, I blended this with 2 whole preserved lemons, adding a little of the juice from the jar. Blend on medium then high. Serve with yoghurt. It’s a way of effortlessly eating a lot of vegetables in one meal. #winterfood #soup #vegetables
Load More... Follow on Instagram

Archives

Copyright © 2025 msmarmitelover