• Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Snapchat
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

MsMarmiteLover

  • Food
    • Recipes
    • Vegetarian
    • Vegan
  • Travel
    • France
    • Italy
    • Spain
    • UK
  • Wine
  • Gardens
  • Supperclubs/Events
  • About
    • Published Articles
    • Books
  • Shop
    • Cart

Christmas shopping and eating in Dublin

December 10, 2014 9 Comments Filed Under: Christmas, Uncategorized

Dublin at Christmas
Dublin museum
Dublin

On my visit to Dublin, I was struck by the optimism and creativity but also a rueful realism. One taxi driver cheerfully said to me:

 “We had no money, then we got money, we pissed it up the wall and we lost all the money. Now we are on the up again. Hopefully.” 

There was almost a mood of post-trauma jubilance. Things were so bad in Ireland post-crash, much worse than in the UK, that there is now widespread relief that the bubble has been replaced by a groundswell of solid young artisanal businesses.

Dublin is a good place to visit coming up to Christmas – the people are warm, the shops are interesting, the town isn’t too big to walk around and Irish food has had a tremendous revival over the last few years. There is still enough remaining Georgian architecture left in the centre of town to make it an attractive place to walk around.
I was led to some of these locations by Eveleen Coyle of Fabulous Food Trails. She gave a fascinating quick run-down of Irish food and dietary history. The potato grows so well in rainy Ireland and by the 1800s, 80% of the population was entirely dependent on one ingredient, the potato. (This is one of the reasons that coeliac disease is so common, one in ten, in Irish people.) From 1845 to 1847, there were three years of no potatoes due to blight. This meant starvation with a slow recovery. In the 20th and 21st centuries, Ballymaloe’s Myrtle Allen and her daughter in law Darina Allen have led the way in rediscovering the Irish larder. 

1) Fallon and Byrne

Fallon and Byrne, DublinFallon and Byrne, Dublin
Fallon and Byrne, Dublin, Dublin
The Dublin equivalent of Wholefoods is a treasure trove of a food store, every aisle packed with interesting foodstuffs from around the world. They also have a restaurant and lunch bar.

2) Blazing salads

Blazing salads, Dublin

If you want to pick up something both tasty and healthy for lunch, try Blazing Salads deli in the centre of town. They sell Nobo (gaelic for no cow) dairy free icecream, a food business that recently won the best start up award (worth 25k euros) at the Lovin’ Dublin food awards. This business, only started two years ago by Rachel and Brian Nolan (above) is headed for great things, their ice-cream is absolutely delicious.

3) Pubs

dublin
As my blogging colleague Food Stories said on her visit, Dublin has proper pubs. Even if you are not usually a pub person, and I’m not, you will love them. The bar people will talk to you, the customers propping up the bar will take the piss out of you (gently, with a twinkle), someone is bound to get out a guitar and start strumming. It appears, according to my brief foray, that everyone in Dublin can sing. Office workers, middle-aged mums, the people sitting next to me, the drunk guy at the bar – everyone can chip in with perfect harmonies.

Pub recommendations:

Mary's bar and hardware store

Mary’s bar and hardware store where you can buy a pack of nails, a roll of sellotape and a pint of Guinness at the same time. I love hardware stores anyway.
The International Bar does the best cheese toastie (grilled cheese) according to the cheese toastie map of Dublin (which is as good as any other way of mapping a city. I feel this needs doing in London. In fact, why stop there? Let’s have a cheese toastie map of the UK!) Created by graphic designer Eoin Whelehan, here are his top 6 toastie recommendations and his 10 toastie commandments. Do note, vegetarian readers, that a cheese toastie in Dublin automatically contains ham, in fact it’s considered so intrinsic to the ‘dish’ that they don’t even mention the ham in the title. Delicate negotiation is required to get pub staff to remove the ham element.

The Swan pub, Dublin
The Swan pub offers an atmospheric welcome, along with generous pours of vintage Jameson’s whiskey (from Dublin) and well-settled pints of Guinness. The present landlord’s dad, Sean Lynch, was the only champion rugby player for the Ireland side who was also a full-time publican. He’d play a match on the Saturday afternoon and be behind the bar pulling pints in the evening. “That was when men were men”, grinned his son. The walls are decorated with his rugby shirts, dark wooden panels and bullet holes from the war of independence against the British.

4) Sheridans cheesemongers. 

Dublin’s cheese shop is run by, bien sûr, a Frenchman, John Leverrier, but he champions Irish cheeses as well as French. Cheese in Ireland tended to be either industrially made or homemade in farmhouses until recently. Now there is a burgeoning craft scene but it’s a tough life. They are currently selling off the very last Glebe Brethan cheeses made by the recently and tragically departed David Tiernan who, on a trip to France, fell in love with Conté style cheeses and imported Montbelliard cows. He made cheese 40 days a year using summer milk. His sons aren’t interested in taking over, one works for Google. Says it all, doesn’t it? Who wants to do the hard, cold physical craft of cheese making when you can earn a good deal more working for the brave new world tech companies, many of whom are located in Dublin.

5) 3FE coffee

This place is credited with revitalising the coffee bar culture of Dublin. They do a tasting menu of coffee plus classes, brewing and barista workshops.

6) The Pepper Pot at Powerscourt Town House shopping centre

The Pepper Pot at Powercourt Town House in located in an impressive Georgian courtyard with many trendy boutiques. The Pepper Pot makes and bakes its own sourdough bagels which are stunning, you can have lunch there, on the balcony.

7) Georges Street Arcade

 Georges Street Arcade Dublin
I was actually tempted to buy this christmas pudding costume at George Street Arcade.
Lolly and Cooks, Georges Street Arcade, Dublin

Georges Street Arcade is a little Victorian market with clothes, souvenirs, cafés and a baked goods stall such as Lolly and Cooks. 

8) Little Museum of Dublin

Not an eating place but well worth a visit: the Little Museum of Dublin. This museum was crowd-sourced, not just for funding but also for the exhibits. You will see souvenirs of Dublin life, a walk around a historic Dublin sitting room, great photos on the walls, spread over two floors of a Georgian townhouse. On the top floor they currently have a U2 exhibition from stuff donated by the band. Curator Simon O’Connor does a fascinating talking tour every hour.

9) Marco Pierre White’s steakhouse and grill. 

Marco Pierre White talking to creator of Lovin’ Dublin, entrepeneur Niall Harbison, who gave away his book ‘Get Sh*t done: from bedroom to boardroom in 1000 days’.  Marco said:

 “I’ve spent time in many cities in the world, but Dublin is the one that has shown me the most kindness”.

Marco Pierre White's steakhouse and grill. Dublin
Marco Pierre White's steakhouse and grill. Dublin
I love taking pictures of women in toilets, it’s where all the best stuff goes on.
Marco Pierre White's steakhouse and grill. Dublin
Marco Pierre White’s steakhouse and grill. Now I realise this is not trendy, Marco doesn’t cook there and the menu is simple and protein-driven. But you could say that White saw the move towards dude food way before it became hip: here it is done with classic French flair and good Irish ingredients. If you want a steak, you won’t find it better cooked. 
I had a halibut steak, which was perfectly seasoned and twinned with a bowl of thick twice fried chips. The atmosphere is luxurious with white leather banquets, dim lighting and moody black and white photos on the walls of a young hollow-cheeked brooding Marco tossing his greasy but sexy mane. The manageress Geraldine gives an Irish welcome and is a great craic, I found her not only backcombing and spraying her own hair in the loos but also doing an impromptu beauty makeover on some of the customers. Restaurant and beauty salon combined, what is not to like?

10) Coppinger Row

Buttery crab claws
Coppinger Row restaurant specialises in Irish ingredients including the freshest Atlantic seafood, cheeses, meats and vegetables. 

I asked if I could take a picture of these guys drinking Guinness? Why? Because it’s typically Irish! They laughed and said ‘But we are English’. 

Irish designer Orla Kiely’s shoes at Clarks. Now why didn’t I buy them?

Winter sunlight: it doesn’t always rain in Dublin.

Recent posts

Discovering fairytale Saxony in Germany

January 25, 2023

Fake meat taste test for Veganuary

January 8, 2023

A round-up of my favourite travel destinations of 2022

January 1, 2023

Previous Post: « Poverty, Fortnum and Masons and Christmas
Next Post: Christmas cheese board tips and what wine to match it with »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Regula

    December 10, 2014 at 1:44 pm

    Dublin, and Ireland in general has been on my list for years! I can't wait to finally visit some day. I would have been tempted to buy that christmas pud costume too, in fact, I probably would have since I already dress up my teapot, eggs and christmas tree in xmas pud jumbers and balls 🙂

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      December 10, 2014 at 1:52 pm

      Aw how cute! I hope we will get to see pix of that on your blog.
      Yes do go to Ireland, the food is fantastic.

      Reply
    • Chloe

      December 10, 2014 at 4:51 pm

      Can you explain how a dependency on potatoes causes a high prevalence of Coeliac disease? As a Coeliac myself I am interested, as we can eat potatoes! Is there research out there that explains this?

      Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 10, 2014 at 10:43 pm

      Hi chloe,
      Two things: the Irish got used to not eating wheat. Everything was potato based including the bread. Also natural selection would have favoured gluten intolerant people. Eating a potato based diet would have meant that coeliacs would have thrived and procreated rather than being incredibly ill, without knowing why, for years. According to this site http://www.bsg.org.uk/patients/general/coeliac-disease.html " the world's highest incidence is in the west of Ireland."
      I think there is some research out there, it was an Irish friend of mine who was ill for years without knowing why, who ended up having a biopsy in the 90s, who told me about this. Nowadays of course a swab or blood test is sufficient to diagnose it.

      Reply
  2. Messa

    December 10, 2014 at 4:32 pm

    I love Dublin! It's a wonderful city and I want to go there at least every two years at least ( I live in Stockholm).

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 10, 2014 at 10:43 pm

      I'd love to spend more time there Messa.

      Reply
  3. Nic M

    December 1, 2015 at 7:42 am

    The last time we went to Dublin we stayed at the Clarence hotel in a corner suite overlooking the Liffey. It was long enough ago that Lou Reed was still alive and we spent an amusing morning watching Bono fussing around the place getting it ready for Lou's stay. He was plumping cushions and making sure that every ashtray had a book of matches. Hilarious.

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      December 2, 2015 at 12:12 pm

      haha. I can totally see Bono as a cushion fluffed!
      I loved Lou Reed and was a member of his fan club at one point (think I've still got the cardboard membership somewhere) but I hear he was a very unpleasant man.

      Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      December 2, 2015 at 12:12 pm

      fluffer i mean

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Primary Sidebar

MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

Subscribe to my mailing list

msmarmitelover

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
My piece is The Great Read: My piece is The Great Read:
Naples at Christmas- discovering piennolo di vesuv Naples at Christmas- discovering piennolo di vesuvio,the Christmas 🍅, which lasts up to a year fresh. It’s given boxed as gifts around Christmas being the only local fresh tomato available. It dresses all the Christmas pizzas and pastas. It’s grown on volcanic Vesuvius soil and sparsely watered. As a result it has thick skins, and a sweet intense flavour. #tomatoes #italy #naples
Not cooking much at the moment due to a thick laye Not cooking much at the moment due to a thick layer of dust over my kitchen. This will be my dining room/photography studio. Done on a whim.#unplanneddemolition
Another picture of my granddaughter Ophelia in a n Another picture of my granddaughter Ophelia in a nest of apricot tulle (found at portobello market). Isn’t she lovely? #granfluencer
Broccoli Stilton soup. This freezing week is defin Broccoli Stilton soup. This freezing week is definitely a week for soups. My friend @jimfrommanc is staying & needs his hot lunch.
Cheese on toast with crushed chilli 🌶️ in Ven Cheese on toast with crushed chilli 🌶️ in Venice the fresh food market sells bouquets of colourful chillies. I’ve still got mine, drying in an enamel jug. #travelandfood
The Christmas tomato or piennolo di vesuvio. Read The Christmas tomato or piennolo di vesuvio. Read all about it: https://msmarmitelover.com/2022/12/christmas-in-naples.html  Got a couple of bunches hanging in my kitchen. #naples #campania #tomatoes🍅 #travelphotography
Opheliagram. This morning I photographed her in an Opheliagram. This morning I photographed her in an Italian outfit I bought in Naples on a William Morris playmat which looks great and is practical for tummy time. So many things are different about parenting now. Parents use apps to track feeding, pooing, weeing etc. You don’t bathe them anymore for the first few weeks because you want to leave the vernix ( the white waxy stuff they are covered in at birth) on their skin as long as possible. Nappies now have a line on them that turns blue if they’ve done a pee. White noise apps to help them sleep. New technology guides new parents. As well as ancient probably prehistoric customs being rediscovered. #granfluencer #grandaughter I’ve tagged in @siennamarla and @jamescalmus as the authors of this baby.
I made two dishes from one pack of white beans las I made two dishes from one pack of white beans last night. Soak, then cook with 2 stock cubes, water & a fan of bay leaves. When soft & cooked, scoop some into a soup bowl with plenty of stock, add white wine, fresh basil and or a scoop of pesto and a squeeze of lemon for soupe au pistou. Garnish with Parmesan. Today I cooked the pot until the liquid had almost disappeared and added a block of feta. I baked this in the oven for 20 to 30 minutes, added @pomoragoodfood new olive oil, salt and pepper for a gigantes plaki (but with smaller beans). Eat more beans!
What to make when you have lots of leftover egg yo What to make when you have lots of leftover egg yolks after making a pavlova? Zabaglione, that classic Italian trattoria dessert made from egg yolks, sugar & tons of masala sweet wine. Whisk it up over a bain-marie or be a bit cheaty & add a teaspoon of cornflour. Strong wrists needed. #italianfood #christmasdesserts #leftovers #cooksmart
The unpackaged vegan meats. My panel of 4 ( from c The unpackaged vegan meats. My panel of 4 ( from carnivore, to recent vegetarian, to long-time vegetarian to never eaten meat (my daughter)) tasted 18. It was quite a bushtucker trial. Carnivores & vegetarians liked very different things. Full report in next weeks @hamandhigh #veganuary #vegan #vegetarian #tastetest #fakemeat #plantbasedmeat
Fake meatathon tasting taking place as my veganuar Fake meatathon tasting taking place as my veganuary column for @hamandhigh So many companies doing this now. As a longtime vegetarian I don’t want anything that tastes too much like meat. But new vegetarians and vegans may want something that tastes close as damnit to meat in order to stave off cravings? Which category are you in? Have you any favourites or dislikes? Is this just another example of ultra-processed food? Let me know in the comments #vegan #vegetarian #meatfree #veganuary
Pasta buselli al cedro. Cedro or citron is a fragr Pasta buselli al cedro. Cedro or citron is a fragrant citrus & one of the founding citrus (along with pomelo and mandarin) that created all the other citrus fruits you know about. Usually candied, it is also used in this unusual neopolitan recipe in which you soak the zest in the pasta water overnight before cooking. Post up on the blog later today. Board a Xmas present from @siennamarla #pasta #naples #cedro #citrus
My london garden ce matin My london garden ce matin
My Sacher Torte (1 word or 2?) with a difference- My Sacher Torte (1 word or 2?) with a difference- bergamot marmalade in the middle. In the @hamandhigh this week. It’s bloody delicious. #chocolatecake #feelaustria #untoldstories #vienna #sachertorte
These are Mela Annurca apples, ‘mel’anurca’ These are Mela Annurca apples, ‘mel’anurca’ in Neapolitan dialect. They are a Christmas apple, in season now. I bought this little model basket of apples in San Gregorio di Armenia street in Naples where every year neopolitans buy something to add to their ‘presepe’ or nativity scene. Often scenes from markets to add to the expensive, anything from 500 euros to 5000 euros nativity crèches. Around Christmas this street is packed (watch out for pickpockets) with locals and tourist picking out their addition to the scene. Melanurca apples are picked in September then laid on the ground to ripen, turning them every day by hand, to ensure all sides transform from a yellow green into a Wicked Witch red. They are very healthy, particularly for your hair, according to scientists at the university of Naples. #naples #neopolitanchristmas #melanurca  #food #travel #sangregorioarmeno #presepenapoletano #nativityscenes
The Christmas tomato 🍅 or piennolo di vesuvio, The Christmas tomato 🍅 or piennolo di vesuvio, a local tomato that is sold around Christmas in Naples. It is grown with very little irrigation and lasts fresh up to a year. Hence it is used for tomato based Christmas dishes. This tomato has a thick skin and is really intense in flavour. It hangs outside grocers, on balconies, in kitchens, having been braided by ladies into bunches of 1.5 kilos. Each costs 15 euros. I went to visit the farmers and the ladies skilfully tying the tomatoes into clusters, using the vines to fasten them, like cherries. Boxed, these are given as gifts. Reel on the way! #naples #christmas #tomatoes #travel #food
Travel: how I pack. I choose one colour as well as Travel: how I pack. I choose one colour as well as black and white and stick to that palette. For Sicily & Naples I’m doing red, white & black. I’ve bought @coti_vision red glasses chain, a red beret & a black one, a pair of red @snagtights & a black pair, a red hair clasp, a red & white pair of shoes (25 euros, leather from Naples), a red & white dress, a black & white striped dress, and so on. Do you roll? Do you flatten & spread? Do you fold? How do you pack? A few days before I leave I leave my suitcase open in my bedroom and every time I think of something I need to take I sling it in there. ( like adaptors) Last thing is wash bag ( I have a hanging one which is useful) and coat (red for this trip). Basically I colour code my life. When I did the Camino everything was blue & yellow, the colours of the Camino. When I went to Ireland I took all my green clothes ( I don’t have many). If I go on a boat trip I pack blue and white. #packing #colourcoding #travel #mysuitcase
Ruota di pesce spada. A glorious oven baked Sicili Ruota di pesce spada. A glorious oven baked Sicilian fish dish, baked on onions, studded with garlic cloves wrapped in mint leaves, then more onions, capers, olives, oregano & rosemary. Use a thick central slice of swordfish (where can I get that in london?). I’m tasting grillo & Nero d’avola wines @tenutorapitala about an hour inland from Palermo. The owner is the last count Bernard de La gatinais. He has 3 daughters. He’s French (Brittany) and Sicilian. He spoke about how difficult it has been for wine growers since lockdown- so many restaurants closed. Now they are grappling with high energy & fuel costs. ##winesofsicilia #siciliaDOC #wine #travel #sicily
I love Venice. I love Maneskin. I love Italy. I lo I love Venice. I love Maneskin. I love Italy. I love boats and water. #biennalearte2022
Load More... Follow on Instagram

Archives

Copyright © 2023 msmarmitelover