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Poverty, Fortnum and Masons and Christmas

December 4, 2014 12 Comments Filed Under: Christmas, Food, Recipes, Uncategorized

I do feel very lucky. Seven years ago I was a single mum on benefits, struggling to find a job. I couldn’t find one so I started… not only my own business, but a whole new type of business. It was risky and sometimes frightening starting a restaurant in my living room and blogging about it. I haven’t really let people know about the pressure I’ve been under at times, legally and in every other way, to keep going. Hell, the crap I’ve been through. And all I was ever trying to do is earn a living.
So blogging, which was an essential part of my story, changes lives. Another person for whom blogging has changed her life for the better is Jack Monroe who had in some ways a similar story to my own, being a single mum on benefits. I’ve never really blogged about being on welfare. Why? Because I was ashamed of it. I didn’t know how to get out of that situation, I felt trapped, humiliated and helpless. My only difference of opinion with Jack is that, once the terrible bureaucratic nightmare interim period of not getting your benefits has passed (and yes, I was so broke my mum had to come over with a pint of milk so I could give my three year old a drink), the ONLY THING you can do on welfare IS eat. It’s the most economical form of pleasure, a holiday in your mouth. That’s why poor people in Western countries are fat. Carb me up, boost my serotonin, stop the feelings, anaesthetise the pain and the loneliness. Caitlin Moran wisely said in ‘How to be a woman’:

“Overeating is the addiction of choice of carers, and that’s why it’s come to be regarded as the lowest-ranking of all the addictions. It’s a way of fucking yourself up while still remaining fully functional, because you have to. Fat people aren’t indulging in the “luxury” of their addiction making them useless, chaotic, or a burden. Instead, they are slowly self-destructing in a way that doesn’t inconvenience anyone. And that’s why it’s so often a woman’s addiction of choice. All the quietly eating mums. All the KitKats in office drawers. All the unhappy moments, late at night, caught only in the fridge light.”

The borough next to where I live, Brent, has the highest diabetes in the UK – 23,000 people at the last count. This is partly because it has a large Indian sub-continent community where overweight starts at a BMI of 23. It is also because of inner city poverty, of which a large proportion are single parents and their children. It seems counter-intuitive but Diabetes 2 is inextricably linked with poverty.
So in the last six years my life has changed for the better. It’s still tough to be freelance, especially in an economic climate where you have to stand your ground to be paid for your work. You never really relax when you have your own business: no paid holidays, no sickness pay, the lack of security, the feeling that you are only as good as your last blog post, recipe, dinner or book. 
But this is not a whinge fest. I am celebrating. 
Earlier this year I won the award for Best Online Food writer at the Fortnum and Mason awards which, seeing as it’s one of my all time fave London landmarks and food shops, I was pretty damn pleased. They’ve just sent me their little Christmas booklet featuring contributions from la creme de la creme of British food and drink writing: Rose Prince, Diana Henry, Pete Brown on beer, Nina Caplan on wine, Victoria Moore on spirits, Yottam Ottolenghi, the Hairy Bikers, Dan Saladino for Radio 4’s The Food Programme, Claudia Roden, Matthew Fort, Helen McGinn of the Knackered Mothers Wine Club and others. So you can see my work is in unbelievably exalted company. It’s a very pretty turquoise and gold (F and M colours) booklet with fine illustrations (plus they sent me a box of salted caramels to munch on while I read it.)
The book features my classic gingerbread house recipe from my new book MsMarmitelover’s Secret Tea Party. Even if I say it myself, this is a perfect Christmas present, have you ordered yours yet?
Oh go on. 

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Comments

  1. Sarah Moore

    December 4, 2014 at 4:54 pm

    I'm really in awe of you. I've had some tough times myself over the past few years but I didn't have a child to support on top of that. I was on benefits for a bit but had to go off them in order to do internships. The only way I could do them otherwise was to disclose I was on benefits to do an official "job trial"; I feared the stigma would scupper my chances of a job offer. There's no flexibility in the system to arrange your own work experience.

    In January I start my first full-time, permanent job since arriving here over 7 years ago. Previously it was all temporary contracts, 1 week notice (or no notice but what can you do when you have no money or power?).

    The financial crisis was a blessing in disguise though. I've taken risks I might not have otherwise and found a career I really love.

    Thank you for taking about this stuff. It's still hard to but it needs to happen.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 4, 2014 at 5:15 pm

      I'm in awe of all single parents, which is why I dedicated my first book to them. They are the heroes but so often treated as the problem.
      I totally agree on the lack of flexibility in the system. When the newspapers go on about Next employing Polish workers, and why don't British people take those jobs I feel like screaming. BECAUSE they don't want a temporary job which means they will have to go through that terrible delayed period of waiting to get benefits again which is so stressful. The people on question time and any questions have obviously never been on benefits. They don't know what they are talking about. Most people aren't lazy, they are just beaten.
      I'm so glad it's all worked out for you now Sarah and thanks for your comment, it's heartening. xx

      Reply
  2. Bethan Vincent

    December 4, 2014 at 5:32 pm

    I completely agree with your observation that when you are poor, the only thing you can do is eat.

    I have spent the last year trying to build two businesses and my income has been practically non existent (at one point 75% of my take home went on rent.) Cooking and blogging about it, even if everything I used was from the reduced isle, was my singular form of pleasure. I felt it was OK to spend money on food, because you have to eat right?

    I'm glad to hear things have got better, I'm still waiting for it to happen to me, but I live in hope.

    http://www.audacityoffood.co.uk/

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 4, 2014 at 7:24 pm

      Hi Bethan,
      I do believe that courage and hard work are rewarded so I'm sure it will get better for you. The trouble with eating as an addiction is that you are confronted by it at least three times a day, you can't go cold turkey from eating. Thanks for commenting xx

      Reply
    • Margaret@KitchenFrau

      December 4, 2014 at 11:48 pm

      Congratulations! I am so happy for you. Please know that your blog is touching a life here in Canada, too. Your honesty is a balm for others, and even though we are all in different situations, we can relate as women and nurturers, for in that way our lives are very much the same! We get it – the pleasure and the pain of using food as our 'medicine'. Kudos to you for sharing, and a high-five to you for your successes! I love to read your blog!

      Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 5, 2014 at 3:52 am

      Thanks so much Margaret. I'm so glad my post touched you for it is hard to open up in that way in public. Thanks xx

      Reply
  3. Anonymous

    December 5, 2014 at 12:29 am

    So proud of you, Kerstin!! You've come a long, long way from those early days in Paris – I remember our very first meeting with our small girls who are now young women already…Fortnum and Masons no less!!! You are indeed an inspiration. Hugs.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 5, 2014 at 3:53 am

      Hey Juanita, thank you and I'm still hoping you will visit London one day. xx

      Reply
    • Bridget Blair

      December 5, 2014 at 12:17 pm

      I didn't realise that you had it so tough….and I know that feeling of being a freelancer. I was for quite a few years too.
      I didn't realise that life had been so tough for you but congratulations !For being such a good writer …your blog is one of my " must read immediately it's posted "blogs, for getting yourself where you are today through hard work and brilliant ideas……and for being such a good role model for your daughter.

      Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 5, 2014 at 1:25 pm

      Thanks Bridget. The toughest part of being a single parent is the low self-esteem and the rock bottom esteem in which you are held by the rest of society plus the relentless isolation.Not having any money wasn't the worst bit. Bizarrely I've always felt rich even when I had no money at all. I'm not saying that in a spiritual way but more 'am I a bit delusional?'

      Reply
  4. Aj

    December 6, 2014 at 8:55 pm

    Great stuff K. MsM is in my Fav Toolbar.
    Always in interested in T2 since I was diagnosed. Fortunately not on meds so gone low carb and exercise… and it's odd…. I eat like a horse, never feel close to full after a meal, gone from 95 to 75kg and really look at the food industry and wonder how they get away with all that sugar… reduced fat my arse…
    Your writing and photos are a real tonic, good on you and thank you.

    Reply
    • theundergroundrestaurant

      December 7, 2014 at 12:27 am

      Thank you. Poor you but well done for getting it under control.

      Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

msmarmitelover

Just had this window built by @odgjoinery and stai Just had this window built by @odgjoinery and stained glass window to match the front door by @wstoneglass beautiful work. Thank you so much. #edwardianhouse #victorianhome #stainedglass #joinery #restoration #london #kilburn
Stuffed peppers: filled with soaked fine bulgur wh Stuffed peppers: filled with soaked fine bulgur wheat, hazelnuts, sherry soaked sultanas, preserved lemon, smoky paprika, garlic, dill, coriander leaves , mint, and ground seeds, cumin,pumpkin seeds baked in the oven for 45 minutes. Serve with yoghurt. Delish! #latesummer #recipe #vegetarian #vegan #middleeasternish
My book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is now My book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is now available on @ckbk which is like Spotify for cookbooks - check it out or buy a signed copy from my website #afternoonteaparty
Next door there are 2 damson trees in the grounds Next door there are 2 damson trees in the grounds of the council flats. The ground smelled like jam. I picked a few kilos, 3 kilos after sorting through. I put them, crushed, stones included, in a clean glass container, with 1.5 kilos of sugar and 2 litres of gin ( I may add another), I’ll leave them for 3/4 weeks then filter. Damson gin for Christmas.
Fig, chocolate and chestnut tart- recipe in my boo Fig, chocolate and chestnut tart- recipe in my book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party. This is rather adult, using bitter dark chocolate ganache, chestnut flour and figs from my garden. #figrecipes #chocolate #baking
Went for an evening of Turkish music and entertain Went for an evening of Turkish music and entertainment @kibele.london Fantastic margarita cocktails, great food, generous portions and wonderful entertainment. In the end we all got up and had a go at belly dancing, #turkishfood #london #londonnights
I’ve got Covid (day3) so not much food in the ho I’ve got Covid (day3) so not much food in the house. I found some floppy- going black- carrots in the salad drawer, so I peeled and resuscitated those. Chopped them into a saucepan with a couple of cubes of vegetable stock and a litre of hot water. Then I added a couple of tablespoons of smooth peanut butter, a clove of garlic, 1 tsp of ground cumin, half a preserved lemon. Just stuff I had around. Simmered till the carrots were soft then blended in the @vitamixuk I can honestly say the vitamix is my most regularly used bit of kitchen kit. Anyway- hey presto- a high protein soup with fibre. I hope I test negative before I totally run out of food. #solo #covid #highprotein #soup
I wrote this long read for @scotnational about the I wrote this long read for @scotnational about the anti G8 camp in Stirling to protest against the G8 in Gleneagles. I partipated in the camp & protest along with my daughter @siennamarla playing in the samba band, part of the Pink Bloc. The camp was an incredible experience- the possibility of a different type of politics, of horizontal democracy. It was also a lot of fun. But our protest was tragically overshadowed by the 7/7 bombings in London. We wanted to create a new world but by the actions of a few disaffected British Muslim terrorists our positive movement for change was drowned out by hideous violence against normal ordinary people. Here is my account. 20 years anniversary #7/7 #londonbombings #scotland #antig8 #protest #gleneagles
Cheap stuff. Since the pandemic money has been tig Cheap stuff. Since the pandemic money has been tight. I shop at Lidl and aldi for food, Vinted, Portobello and Primark for clothes. The first pic is gazpacho with a banderilla from Lidl. They often have Spanish weeks and other nationality foods at a bargain price. I love those huge cartons of gazpacho- I glug it down like juice, especially in the heat. The banderillas are sold by the jar. Second pic is me in a primark vest, cardi, with an Anthropologie sale belt and old denim shorts from 10 years ago. Sorry about the mess behind, I sold a piece of furniture, a desk I found on the street, painted enamel green with ‘bamboo’brass handles which I sold on eBay for £225 #needsmust #thrift
My tea book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is My tea book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is now out on the cookbook app @ckbk it’s now out of print but you can still buy some print copies via me or Amazon. However you can see all the recipes ( like my sour cherry icecream which I served last week) on this site which is like a Spotify for cooks. Arguably afternoon tea is a meal which the English do better than any other country. #cookbooks #afternoontea #supperclubs
Saturdays midsummer supperclub was mostly a bbq on Saturdays midsummer supperclub was mostly a bbq on the @biggreenegguk I divided the meal into fragrance families: vegetal, fougere (fern), green notes, fresh: asparagus, garden artichokes on the bbq, dolmades made from my garden vine leaves. Then citrus fragrances with yuzu, 🍊 🍋 bergamot glaze, salmon, smoked tofu steaks, vegan smoked salmon carrot. Next spice which in perfume is oriental spices: bbq mini aubergines with paprika seed oil, home ground garam masala, a tahini caper dressing. Then wood and resinous fragrances using rosemary oil brushed bbq mini peppers, pine syrup on labneh, mushrooms a la grecque with juniper, finally the floral family of fragrance with sour cherry and rose icecream, lavender shortbread  hearts and orange flower water meringue kisses. It was a lively warm evening- children were welcome. There was a bonfire, lots of wine and laughter. I buy welding gloves £12 from Amazon  to use with the bbq. I also use @pomoragoodfood oils #london
With my home grown artichokes, grown from seed for With my home grown artichokes, grown from seed for tonight’s supperclub.
Sour cherries from the garden for my midsummer sup Sour cherries from the garden for my midsummer supperclub in the garden this Saturday 21st June. Tickets available, link in bio. Also at this link: https://substack.com/redirect/5a700a44-49c1-4e6d-834f-8d4851f98f45?j=eyJ1IjoiMWUzYm4ifQ.njFJL9K8WpzSqVZ5HFSvq84gnJeUD7reFZV9LrDwYtI #midsummernightsdream #supperclub #og #sourcherry
Can’t wait to delve into this by one of my favou Can’t wait to delve into this by one of my favourite food writers @kitchenbee it’s got everything: kitchenalia, divorce and food. Did you know that what we call heartache is actually stomach ache? It’s now recognised that rejection actually causes physical as well as psychological pain. A study shows that pain relief medications such as paracetamol can alleviate heartache. Some of our emotional pain is autonomic: it’s referred to as polyvagal theory. #heartbreak #foodwriting #lovehurts #takotsubo #dopaminewithdrawal
Midsummer supper club 21st June. The theme is frag Midsummer supper club 21st June. The theme is fragrance and scent. Tickets are £45  and you can bring your own drink. Starts 7.30pm and the nearest tube is Kilburn on the jubilee. Parking is free outside. Exact address given on booking. https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsummer-supper-club-2025-scent-and-fragrance #london #supperclub
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@camille.osullivan @camilleosullivanpics and @grah @camille.osullivan @camilleosullivanpics and @grahnort @wiltonsmusichall god this woman is talented. She did a solo show of The Rape of Lucrece. Her voice! #theatre #shakespeare #london
My latest article on Hungarian cuisine, a unique m My latest article on Hungarian cuisine, a unique meeting of east and west, for @ckbk It's a blend of Ottoman, Eastern and middle European, Austro-Hungarian empire and cowboy food. #food&travel #foodanthropology #hungary
Made Fermented Cucumber dill pickles from @nickvad Made Fermented Cucumber dill pickles from @nickvadasz book The Pickle Jar. At @katzsdeli in New York they sell half sours and full sours. I reckon these are 3/4 sour. The white mould is fine btw. These are delicious #pickleperson #fermentation #guthealthy
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