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Meet Tia Keenan, the cheese queen of Queens

April 18, 2016 5 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

Tia Keenan, fromager, author, New York

I first met Tia Keenan on
my last trip to New York in 2011. We met in the lobby at the Ace Hotel and
immediately hit it off. Her particular speciality is cheese – she was the
fromager for high end restaurants in New York and created Casellula, a
ground-breaking cheese and wine restaurant. Tia pairs cheese with unusual
flavours, and creates things like cheese sushi.
In the five years since we met, her
life has changed drastically: she now lives in a light and airy house in Queens
with her husband Hristo Zisovski, the chef sommelier and wine buyer for a host of
top Manhattan restaurants, and they have a beautiful son, Sterio.  
Tia wrote to me to
describe her forthcoming first book ‘The Art of the Cheese Plate’ (Rizzoli, September 2016):
I wanted this book to reflect the spirit that I have always brought to cheese: playful, sexy, whimsical, a little irreverent, but backed up by solid knowledge. 

She added that she wanted the book:

To look really different from many other cheese books, which I think of as kind of visually lazy, you know, relying on the aesthetic cliché of county life: the distressed wood, the casually strewn antique knives, the rose-coloured romance of some Provencal farmhouse or something. 

I arranged the entries by season and by “weight”, so we start out with lighter themes and visuals and end with darker, heavier, more aggressive themes and visuals as we progress through the flights in the book.  I don’t state this anywhere in the book but that’s what I did.  Again, I hope the reader gets the “feeling” of that.  I don’t want or need to spell it out. 

I wanted to make something that only
I could’ve made
but that is ultimately totally user-friendly and relatable. I want this to be a joyful object for whoever owns it. 

We sat down on a Sunday afternoon
at her beautiful house in Queens with a couple of good bottles of wine and a
few cheeses and discussed motherhood, pregnancy, taste, politics, Western
medicine, the restaurant industry, sexism, well just about everything. 
Talking the difficulties of
describing flavour, Tia is inspired by a book The Elements of Taste, which makes a concerted effort to define taste, depicting
‘push’ and ‘pull’ elements, along with ‘punctuating’ flavours and a series of
‘platform’ tastes such as oceanic, garden, meaty, starchy. Eventually this is
the route that Tia would like to go down:

But a book like that would take ten
years and it’d kill me.

How do you develop a
palate?

Exercise it! By tasting, by
tasting, by tasting. By consciously tasting. People aren’t mindful. What does
this feel like, what does it smell like?

Like a taste
gym?  

Now I’m not working in the
restaurant, my palate isn’t getting as much practice. Also getting older
affects it.

Our palates aren’t the
same during or after pregnancy.   

I had gestational
diabetes during my pregnancy. I couldn’t eat sugar or carbs. I
could only eat protein, cauliflower and brassicas. 

As a result her son loves
brassicas, pleading for kale and brussel sprouts in the same way that other
kids want spaghetti hoops or sweets. (Bee Wilson goes into this subject in her
latest book ‘First Bite, how we learn to eat’.)
Tia brings three cheeses to
the table, a loaf of dark bread. Any particular cheese we should start with
here?

I like washed rind, pungent
cheeses. These are three of the same style. This is an American cheese, Grayson.  My
friend in upstate New York makes this one, Juvindale. And
lastly we have a Portuguese sheep cheese that I have leftover from a photo
shoot. So we have cow, cow, sheep.

You started as a
waitperson. You saw different aspects of the restaurant industry?

I worked at Tribeca Grill. Because
I’d been working in publishing, I showed up to this interview in a suit, a nice
suit, Dolce & Gabbana. So they hired me, because they were like, “who shows
up to a waiter interview in a D&G suit?”. At
that time in restaurants nobody wanted to do the cheese cart. The chef ordered the
cheeses but didn’t have time to do much else, the pastry chef didn’t want to do
it. The waiters would serve it but that’s all. Nobody wanted to take ownership
of it. It was a mess. So I said, ‘I’ll do it’.
So every restaurant I worked at,
they’d say, “does anyone know anything about cheese?” and I’d say yeah I know
something about cheese.
Then I heard Danny Meyer was opening
a restaurant at the Museum of Modern Art. I was a manager at that point in my
career, so I went to an interview for MOMA and the guy interviewing me said, ‘We don’t have any female captains in the formal dining room. We know you are
over-qualified but we’d really like to have a woman on the team. We are trying
to be inclusive…’ (Tia rolls her eyes, we laugh.) ‘This is our type of feminism… we
are demoting you! I turned that cart into one of the
most respected fine dining cheese programs in the city. That opportunity – to work for Danny,
at MOMA, to build and shape an amazing cheese program, it was really great
timing and such a gift. It coincided with this amazing time in American cheese. This is the conversation I used to
have when I talked about the cheese cart:

‘You have American cheese?
‘Yes, there are some really fine American cheeses.’
‘I would never eat American cheese, it’s garbage, the best cheeses are from France.’

That was where we were at. Americans
didn’t even know we made cheese in this country.
So I did that for a couple of
years. Then I had the opportunity to open a small cheese and wine bar.  So I quit my fancy job and went for it.  Looking back I had some pretty
grandiose plans.  I wanted to
reinvent the cheese course – what it looked like, where it was served, who was
serving it, who was eating it. 
Everything, really.

What kind of things did you
introduce into your cheese programme?

I was completely obsessive and particular. I was really
hardcore about it. I was training the staff. None of this was happening at that
time. I was caring for the cart, like I was taking it really seriously and
there was no one doing that. It was intense. But I was rolling that cart around
every day and talking to hundreds of people. I knew what I could do. I knew
what people would be interested in. I knew how far I could push the eating public.
I felt the culture around me changing. At the Modern, the cheese course
was on the 150 dollar tasting menu, the chef just trusted me, let me do my
thing. He never asked to approve anything. It was really clear to me what I
wanted to do. I had a vision. I was so focused about what I wanted to execute.
Everyone around me was like “No! That’s not gonna work.” (Smiles) But once I put my work in
a casual setting, it was immediately successful. It was packed from the very
first day.

What sort of things did you
innovate?

We did the cheese super casual. We
created the cheese boards in front of people, like an open kitchen. Each cheese
got its own condiment. The condiments were from Asia, the deep south, from
Spain, from every cuisine, from the ethnic markets where I lived in Jackson
Heights, Queens. The way I talked about it, the language I used. People challenged
me: “But what are people going to eat for dinner?” And I was like, they’re going
to have cheese plates!”  This was
pretty unheard of.

There are still no
restaurants like that in London, except La Fromagerie.
What do you think is
happening with American cheese right now?

You can have no discussion about
American cheese without understanding the absolute mess that the American food
system is. Federal policy subsidises and favours industrial
agriculture. There is little support for medium and small scale production
farming. Almost none. The entire infrastructure of American food does not help
small and even medium scale farming. So you’ve got a federal government
that pays for corn, soy, all that. You’ve got an infrastructure to move that type
of product through the chain and you’ve got small and medium scale farmers just
trying to survive. The family farmer is gone, the
Norman Rockwell farmer. The loss of the small & mid-scale farmer
is where the American artisanal cheese movement started. It used to be that you could have
150 dairy cows, you could milk those cows, you could sell that milk on the
commodity markets and make a living. Then the commodity market bottomed out.
The costs of production units sky-rocketed. The amount it costs to feed, water,
house your cows is more than you can earn for the milk. You have thousands of
farms going under. You have farmers ageing out of that system. Their children
don’t take over, because they don’t want to live in poverty. You have farmers
that haven’t aged out, but who are forced to sell and who have to enter the
workplace. So you get the 50 year old guy, working at Walmart, who was brought
up in a farm and farmed for most of his children’s lives. He sold the land and
ekes out a living at Walmart. 
That’s the reality of rural America.  It’s been left to languish in poverty.  

And then you get the people who say
lets make a value added product such as cheese. But that’s not an easy road. A small segment of the farming
population hooked up with people who were inspired on a culinary level. The
story of American artisanal cheese was the culinary seduction of young American
women
. The story of young American women who went to France and ate amazing
cheese and came back to America in the 70’s and 80’s and said why can’t I get
nice cheese here? I’m gonna get five goats and make cheese in my kitchen. It started with goats because they
are easy to care for. They are small. Goats have always been women’s
animals.*
One cow, you got enough milk for
your family. The wife, the mother, took care of the family cow. Herds of cows-
that wasn’t women’s work. Women kept goats. They were small and ate everything.
So they were easier to feed. Goats don’t need the massive amount of land
that a cow needs. All over the world, in traditional agricultural societies,
goats are still women’s animals. You don’t have to graze them the way you do
sheep and cows. So you had these middle-class
women, who didn’t grow up on farms, who were exposed to the culinary wonder of
cheese, and who came into cheese that way.  

And you had the small percentage of
farmers who were so stubborn and didn’t want to give up their farms, saying:
What can I make? Milk isn’t enough anymore – I have to make something else. And then that’s also connected to
the movement and growth of farmers’ markets. Realising that the farmer now is
really a speciality farmer. Much of the commodity stuff are made in
giant agri-business ‘farms’. They don’t look like farms. They don’t
resemble the farms of our grandparents. 

This is the 80’s and 90’s. While
Willie Nelson is doing FarmAid, they are singing sad songs, nobly
so, about the loss of the American farmer. You have these small pockets of
people making cheese. That’s when we started to lay the foundations for
American cheese renaissance. 

Where was this
happening? 

Vermont, California, little random
places here and there.

Have any of those small
cheese companies become successful now?

Yes. Cypress Grove, Vermont Butter & Cheese, these were
started by women cheese makers, and now they’re established American artisan
cheese companies. But it’s hard. The regulatory bodies of the government have
little understanding or respect for real food or traditional foodways. But they
decide what happens with food in this country. They’re equipped to assess large
factories and industrially produced goods. They don’t know what to think when
they walk onto a farmstead cheese production. It’s been very hard for American
cheese, especially raw milk cheese.

Is it still illegal here?
Raw milk?

You can have raw milk cheese if
it’s aged over 60 days but it’s constantly under threat. The FDA is so much
more strict about what is imported to this country. European cheeses that
I used to have access to were much better than they are now. But that gives an
opportunity to American cheeses. I wish that was something
deliberate on the part of our government, in the form of tariffs or trade
protection, so that American cheeses can compete with European cheeses.  But really the FDA is just bumbling
their handling of importation. It’s kind of a backdoor way for American cheeses
to have a fighting chance, but that’s how it happened. There is no food policy
in this country that isn’t about favouring big business.

We can’t get American
cheeses in Europe. We can’t get Monterey Jack in the UK.

That’s mostly Europe’s fault.
Europe is protecting their own dairy farmers, which I think is wise.  Why should they have to compete with
Kraft?  They can’t.  Governments need to protect their
traditional foodways.

I say this bread is
wonderful. It’s like caramelised. (The bread was made by a baker friend of
Tia’s, Zachary Golper of Bien Cuit Bakery in Brooklyn, who made all the bread
for The Art of the Cheese Plate.)
Last time we met we talked
about women in food. It was you that told me that women get a lot less backing
than men to start new businesses.

That’s the context of when I wrote
(chef) Amanda Cohen a fan letter. I felt like she was the only female
chef that ever spoke honestly about the climate for women in the food world. I
sent her an email saying I really admire and respect you because the discourse
on this is pathetic. I know there’s been a backlash. I do think she has
suffered for being… (the implication was an outspoken woman)

I don’t know why she’s not
much much more famous.

That’s why! Everyone wants to say: there aren’t
women chefs because you can’t have kids and be in the kitchen. That’s a fair
assessment. It’s very difficult if you have a kid to also run a kitchen. They say women don’t like the
culture, that it’s sexist. That’s true, but I don’t think that’s the problem. I think we have a means of
production problem. Men are 99% of the investors in restaurants and men
do not invest money in women.
 Not just restaurants. Any business. All
those other things, despite how hard it is, despite how shitty it is, how hot
and hostile it is, there are women who want to do it. It’s shitty, it’s hard,
it’s hot, I don’t see my kid, but they would still kill for a restaurant. Men don’t invest in women. They
don’t. They invest in other men. And that’s how they keep everything to
themselves. It’s about owning the means of production. The problem is capital. We would rather talk about how hard
it is on women than talk about men doing the right thing.

Tom Kerridge, do you know
who he is?

Yeah, he’s the guy that said all that stupid shit. It’s a British tradition for male
chefs to be inflammatory, sort of school-boy. Men here don’t talk like that. They hide their privilege. 

Most chefs aren’t very well
educated. I mean Tom Kerridge, I’m sure he’s very clever but… He’s now
presenting loads of BBC cooking shows.

Why are they giving him work?

He’s one of the most
popular. He does pub food. He’s a lad. He also was hugely fat. I’m not talking
a bit round, he was obese. You just felt looking at him that he was literally
going to die of a heart attack on screen. It was that bad, he was panting. Me
and my girlfriends in food were saying no woman who looked like that would ever
get a show.

You have to be FABULOUS looking to
get a show, if you are a woman.

I never knew food was like
this.

Every industry is like this.

It feels like it’s gotten
worse.

Because there’s a lot of money to
be made. It’s a major form of entertainment now. Can we talk about the British
Baking show?

We talk about Mary Berry
and Bake Off. I repeat the joke by Tina Fey and Amy Poehler ‘that there
are still great parts in Hollywood for Meryl Streeps over 60’. There’s
only broadcasting jobs in food for Mary Berrys over 60. The only people who are
allowed to be on TV if they are older and female are thin. Mary Berry is very,
very thin.

She’s very Julie Andrews.

Plans for the future?

I’d love to make a writing life.
I’d like to write more books. Now I have my son, he’s my number one. He’s my
first consideration. I’ve been pleasantly surprised by being able to do that. I
do have a journalism degree but it took me 20 years in the restaurant business
to become a writer.

I feel like food is the new
rock n roll but actually I feel like the energy has moved past that.
I think food has jumped the
shark.

Totally.  It’s very mainstream now, and less interesting in some ways.

Tia Keenan, fromager, author, New York

We poured wine ‘cheers’,
and Tia talked about getting ill while working in restaurants. Five years ago
when we met you were trying to set up another restaurant. You’d been sick,
you’d walked away from your restaurant, but you still thought you could do it
again?

Yeah. I was doing consulting work
for a big corporate client, and really enjoying it. I thought to myself, “Why am
I trying to do the same fucked up thing again?”. I started looking at patterns
in my life and realized I didn’t want to open another restaurant for myself. I was exhausted all the time, I was
freezing cold all the time. I had searing headaches. My body stopped. My hands
wouldn’t work. I remember getting off the subway once and sitting on the curb,
being two blocks from work and I couldn’t move. I thought, ‘there’s something
really wrong with me’. But when you’re in the restaurant business you are
always tired anyway. Hristo was the first one to say there’s something wrong
(beyond the usual tiredness). 

And you were how old?

30. I went to the doctor and said I
need an HIV test. Test me for cancer or AIDS. I got super lucky because my
doctor happened to give me the Epstein Barr test. He got the test results back:
‘You’re right, you really are sick. Based on the anti-bodies in your blood
stream, you’ve had Epstein Barr for a year and I can’t believe it’s taken you
this long to get to me.’ It’s a virus – 90% of adults will get Epstein Barr at
some point in their lives, but your body fights it and you never get sick. But
if your immune system is suppressed, you get it and it can become chronic. It’s
like an extreme version of mononucleosis.

What’s the cure?

The doctor said, ‘It’s a virus and
there’s no cure.  Try to get more
sleep.’ And I was like, ‘what do
you mean try to get more sleep? I can’t function. I feel like I’m dying.’ But typical of Western medicine, he
said, ‘There’s nothing we can do for you’ – he had no idea how to approach a
whole body disease. So I went to see an
herbalist/acupuncturist, who I still see to this day, who said, ‘You give me a
year, you do everything I say and you will get better.’ At the same time my mum was sick
with MS and there is a connection between Epstein Barr and MS. Everyone who has
had MS has had Epstein Barr. I went on an extreme
holistic cure
. I did herbs, acupuncture. I ate no wheat, no dairy, no
sugar, no alcohol for a year and a half. I drank half a cup of raw apple cider
vinegar every day. At that time I was a compulsive exerciser, one to two hours
a day. He said no more exercise. He put me
on a sleep diet, you have to sleep the equivalent of 70 hours a week. I said, ‘I don’t have the time to do
that’. That’s OK, you do what you can
during the week and then on Sunday you stay in bed all day. He
put me on sleep exercise. He cured me.

We laugh at the absurdity
of a sleep diet. Modern society rewards bipolar ‘up’ behaviour, I remark. It
rewards obsessional drive and extreme hard work.

If you are a sociopath, or a
psychopath you get to become president. All of the candidates are sociopaths or
psychopaths. Even Hillary. Probably Bernie is the only and even him, I have to
question the mental health of anybody who is a lifetime politician. And the restaurant industry rewards
that behaviour.Then my mum died.

What of?

MS.

How long did she have MS
for?

20 years.

Tia pauses and clarifies:

She didn’t really have MS. It’s a
syndrome. There’s no blood test.

Isn’t there? I’m shocked.

No. She didn’t really have MS, she
had some sort of auto-immune disease. My mother had cancer three times. She had
scarlet fever. She was not a healthy person her whole life. She also had mental
illness. On her death certificate, she died of a heart attack. My mother died
with no intestine, no breasts, no joints in any of her feet, several joints
gone, no gall bladder. My mother was a medical… by the time she died… there
was nothing left. She was pickled, stewed, screwed and stitched. Because
Western medicine doesn’t know how to deal with a whole body disease. They were
treating one thing at a time. So what did she die from? I dunno. Drugs,
disease, MS. We could name 10 things that killed her. So that was a huge time
in my life.

When did you meet Hristo?

My father died in 2004, my first
husband died in 2006, I met Hristo in 2007, my mother died in 2009. I opened the restaurant as a way to
not fall apart from all of that. My husband died ’06, my restaurant
opened Spring ’07. The restaurant was the way I kept myself alive. I just wanted
to disappear. I was so heart broken. Then I met Hristo. I didn’t find Hristo
attractive at first. I thought he was just another guy, asking for my number. But
he had patience, an inner fortitude like, ‘Ok I’ll wait for you’. He never
pushed me. He was courting me and I didn’t even realize it until I’d fallen in
love.

That’s so sweet. 
After this we had a companionable
snooze on respective sofas. It was the perfect Sunday afternoon, even though
Tia felt a little guilty – ‘normally I’m cleaning the house on Sunday’.
Tia Keenan, fromager, author, New York

*Background reading: Kirstin Jackson talks about small cheese producers, how goats are women’s animals, in ‘It’s not you, it’s Brie: Unwrapping America’s Unique Culture of Cheese’ (Perigee Books 2012).

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Comments

  1. Margaret Bose Johnson

    April 21, 2016 at 4:11 am

    I just LOVE reading your blog, Kerstin. And I loved learning about the cheese lady. You have such a wonderful variety of things you write about. I'm always excited to see what you've got posted.

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      April 21, 2016 at 9:30 am

      Thank you so much Margaret, thanks for commenting too x

      Reply
  2. asharpknife

    April 21, 2016 at 4:39 pm

    Such a good interview! She seems cool, and she's brutally honest, which is always nice 🙂

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      April 21, 2016 at 6:55 pm

      Such an interesting woman too. I love honesty. Not enough of it about.

      Reply
  3. yocastapott

    May 2, 2016 at 5:08 pm

    Thank you Kerstin to let us know her, very good interview!

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover

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I went to sheffield to visit the @reclaimedbrickco I went to sheffield to visit the @reclaimedbrickcompany to look at their hand cut, wire cut and tumbled bricks for a herringbone patio. I love the historical aspect of bricks, the different quarries from different parts of the country. #patio #englishhistory story
Made brussel sprouts with pistachio pesto. The pis Made brussel sprouts with pistachio pesto. The pistachios came from Brontë in Sicily- they are the best pistachios in the world. You can make pesto with any nut: it’s usually with pine nuts but I’ve used hazelnuts, almonds (trapani), walnuts. #vegetarian #pesto #bronte
Bathroom palette: @firedearthuk scallop tiles @top Bathroom palette: @firedearthuk scallop tiles @toppstiles honed white marble skirting and dado @paintandpaperlibrary paint @sanderson1860 wallpaper this is my first rodeo when it comes to bathroom design. Follow my progress
Yesterday I cooked ( needed help with heavy pans a Yesterday I cooked ( needed help with heavy pans and pouring) pesto alle genovese. Made pesto in the vitamix: fresh basil leaves, 4 cloves garlic, 100g pecorino, 100g pine nuts, 150ml olive oil, salt, and juice of half a lemon. Whizz up.  Then cook the pasta - traditional shape is trofie but I only had fusilli. Top with small boiled potatoes and steamed green beans. Douse again with olive oil and more pine nuts. I served this with green salad with cucumber, avocado, pumpkin seeds and a mustard lemon olive oil dressing. #familylunch #sundaylunch #pestopasta #pestgenovese
Unstyled food photos no.4: butternut squash soup. Unstyled food photos no.4: butternut squash soup. Peel and cut up the butternut squash. Discard the seeds. Roast with olive oil, salt, smoked paprika in the oven for 30 minutes. Soften 2 brown onions in a deep pan with olive oil, add 3 cloves garlic minced, 3 bay leaves. Then add the veg stock powder and 1.5 litres hot water to the pan. Stir. Pour in the roast butternut squash. Cook for 10 minutes. Then remove the bay leaves and blend. Add 3 large scoops of natural yoghurt or skyr. Season to taste. Transfer back to the deep pan and serve with grated cheese, pumpkin seeds, chilli. 🌶️ #vitamix #soup #winterfood #agacooking
Unstyled food photos #3: roast cauliflower & garli Unstyled food photos #3: roast cauliflower & garlic cheese soup. Roast the cauliflower florets, unpeeled garlic cloves, one chopped brown onion in olive oil. Once golden, tip into a saucepan with a potato chopped small, 3 tbsps veg stock and 1.5 litres hot water. Boil till soft the. Add 100g cheddar. Stir then blend in a blender. Serve with grated cheese on top. #soup #vitamix #winterfood #cookingwithonehand #simplerecipes
Unstyled food photos: whole roast cauliflower with Unstyled food photos: whole roast cauliflower with ground almond crust, yoghurt, cumin, lemon juice and tahini sauce using @pomoragoodfood olive oil. First I parboiled the cauliflower then roasted it for 30 to 30 minutes with salt and olive oil in the oven. Add the ground almonds and bake for another 10 minutes. Then serve hot with the sauce. #highprotein #lowcarb #vegan #vegetarian #glutenfree
Unstyled food photos: carrot and preserved lemon s Unstyled food photos: carrot and preserved lemon soup. I’m eating a lot of soup as it’s easy to make with one hand and a vitamix. I roasted the carrots ( 1 kilo) in olive oil. Then boiled them with 2 tbsp veg stock, 1 tsp ground coriander, 1 tsp ground cumin and 2 litres hot water. For a thicker soup, add 1 tbsp of cornflour mixed with the stock juice and add. Once tender, I blended this with 2 whole preserved lemons, adding a little of the juice from the jar. Blend on medium then high. Serve with yoghurt. It’s a way of effortlessly eating a lot of vegetables in one meal. #winterfood #soup #vegetables
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