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Food and drink in Kent, England

May 11, 2016 6 Comments Filed Under: Food, Travel, Uncategorized

the Corner House restaurant, Kent

Margate beach, Kent
English asparagus, Kent

I get an email:

‘Would you like to come down to see the asparagus farm in Kent on April Fools’ Day?’
‘Yes please.’

Grabbing my tickets at Kings Cross St Pancras I ran, puffing for the train. You could only get on the first six carriages up the other end of the platform.
Once I’d settled in my seat, I realised I had no idea where to get off. I DM’d the PR. ‘You get off at Minster.’ Cool. I relaxed.
A few minutes later: ‘But you have to change at Ashford International’. I got this message one minute before we arrived at Ashford International.
I disembark and ask a train guard how I can get a train to Minster.

 ‘On platform 5 here. It’s the next train’.

I wait. Sitting down. Minutes pass. I start to wonder why the train hasn’t arrived.

I find the guard. ‘Oh it’s been and gone.’
‘What? How can I not have seen it?’

I’m seriously doubting my own sanity. A train arrived in front of me and somehow I didn’t notice.
The next one is an hour away. Or you can get on a train to Canterbury. By now I’m sending hysterical tweets to the PR:

From @msmarmitelover: ‘Lost. Mess.’

I get on the train to Canterbury.

I get a tweet saying, ‘Don’t get on the train to Canterbury’.
I reply: ‘I’m on the train to Canterbury’.
‘Get off at Canterbury then wait for another hour to get to Minster.’

By now I’m stressed, tired. I’m losing it, I think.
Eventually I get to The Corner House restaurant in Minster, where I’ve missed lunch.
We drive to farmer Matthew Spanton’s farm, and he shows us the sorting house where the asparagus is washed, sorted, snipped, measured, sorted for size, grade and crookedness. If it’s too bent supermarkets won’t take it. The machine is impressive but there are no asparagus on the conveyor belt.
asparagus in Kent, Mathew Spanton Farm.

We then walk to the middle of a field where the farmer uncovers a mound and points to three barely discernible shoots.

‘I’m afraid it’s been cold the last couple of days and the asparagus isn’t ready.’

We gaze at the shoots. I take pictures. The farmer holds a knife next to the asparagus:

‘When the asparagus reaches to the top of the knife, we can pick it.’

Chef Matt Sworder of The Corner House takes a small bunch of asparagus from the farmer who apologises, ‘that’s all I had’, and sets up a mini-kitchen on the back of a truck, including a camping gas hob, some rapeseed oil, some green hop beer, butter and a little salt. He cooks asparagus like I do, griddling with a little oil or butter and then adding some liquid to steam it.
asparagus, beer, rapeseed oil
Although the market for asparagus is growing, still people are afraid to cook it. They think you need special pans. Often they over-boil it and are disappointed. As asparagus is not that cheap, this failure puts them off.
Green asparagus is exactly the same as white asparagus, which the Austrians and Germans are obsessed with. White asparagus has been forced underground, deprived of the sunlight and chlorophyll that will make it green. It has perhaps a slightly milder taste.
Matt gives us a precious spear each, which we dip into mayonnaise. It is delicious. Nothing like eating produce next to the field that it was grown in.
Next we drive to a rapeseed oil farm, Kentish Oils. I’ve visited a rapeseed farm previously. It’s Britain’s olive oil. We are shown the processing machine, the seeds and the ‘cake’ which is what is left after the oil is pressed out. The cake is sold as animal feed. I taste some, it’s pretty good. I start to think about the seed. How come one never sees rapeseeds for sale? You know, like poppy seeds or sunflower seeds or hemp or linseed? I grab a handful and eat them. Not bad. Not great but there’s probably tons of vitamins in them.
rape seed, Kentish Oils, kent
We have a go at bottling our own oil then do a tasting of different rapeseed oils. The lemon flavoured one is particularly good. Then I feel my stomach cramp. The toilet is right next to the tasting room. I sit on the loo and I can hear the people doing their tasting. Me I’ve got the shits all of a sudden. Plop plop plop. The noise resounds. I’m sure they can hear me. I turn the tap on to try and disguise it. They probably think I pee like an elephant. After an unfeasibly long period in the toilet, I emerge back into the tasting room. I’m not completely ready but it’s all getting embarrassing. But nobody says anything. This is Britain after all.
We get back into the van and my stomach starts to seize up. We are driving along Kentish lanes.

‘How long will it take to get to the next place?’ I squirm.

‘About fifteen minutes,’ the driver replies.

I throw dignity to the wind and squeak: ‘I hope I can keep it in until then.’

‘I can stop next to a field,’ offers the driver.

‘I’ve got a tissue,’ says a blogger.

‘I’ve left my phone back at the rapeseed oil place,’ gasps another. We have to turn back.

I google rapeseed on my phone. It’s highly toxic.
I’ve taken to praying to the god of poo. It works, my stomach calms itself.
Our next stop is the Ramsgate Brewery run by a droll fellow called Eddie Gadd who used to be an engineer and helped dig the Channel tunnel.

He says: ‘I’m going to tell you how to brew beer.’ 

And he does.
Left to Right: malted barley, crystal malt barley, roasted barley, hops. Ramsgate brewery, Kent
Kent is famous for hops ‘East Kent Goldings’ which is a Protected Designation of Origin (PDO). But hops are fairly recent in the history of beer, an innovation brought over from Holland 500 years ago. They add bitterness and  shelflife: preserving the beer beyond a few days. Now beer lasted a matter of weeks rather than days. This is when production grew larger and men took over brewing as a profession. Prior to that, making beer was a woman’s job (wasn’t everything?). Women would place a broomstick sticking out from their door to signify ‘fresh beer for sale’. Hence the expression ‘small beer’. We still see this tradition in pub signs hanging perpendicularly from the outside.
the Cornerhouse restaurant, Minster, Kent
That evening I eat a fine local meal at the Corner House, which uses, where possible, Kent produce. We have Kentish beer, Kentish wine, asparagus, flavoured rapeseed oil, cheeses from Kent. I spend a comfortable night in the B & B upstairs.
Oast house Kent
Even Kent’s architecture is influenced by beer, with occasional Oast houses, where hops were dried, still to be seen. I spoke to one woman who lives in an Oast house dating from the 1840s, converted to a house in the 1970s.

‘When it’s windy the cowl at the top of the chimney spins around’, she told me, ‘and it sounds like a ghost lives here.’

Thanet in Kent, the garden of England, is an island. There is a river that surrounds it, which has been silted up. Before you had to ask the boatman to take you across. I walk around the village of Minster, the ‘capital’ of the island of Thanet, with the owner of The Corner House restaurant. It’s the kind of picture-perfect English village where everyone knows everyone. He says hello to virtually everybody we come across.
Minster Abbey, Kent
Minster abbey, Kent
We visit Minster Abbey, which is a rare Pre-Conquest building with Norman additions. The herring-bone style of brickwork is Saxon, and the original window slits, without glass, gave air and light. A Benedictine order of nuns live there. There are still about 20 orders of nuns in the UK. In English we tend to say ‘nunnery’ but actually monastery is technically accurate. It means an enclosed community, where the community comes in rather than the sister going out. So hospitality is important and you can still stay with the sisters, using the abbey as a retreat. The abbess Domneva was the original founder of this religious order, and was given Thanet as blood money by the Saxon King Ethelbert of Kent. Her daughter, St Mildred, was the second abbess.
Margate beach bubbles
Dreamland Roller disco, Margate
We drove to Margate and visited Dreamland, a retro seaside funfair with old fashioned rides. Margate is now a thriving and fashionable resort, with vintage shops selling fashion and furniture. The Sands hotel has been updated, you can eat on the balcony overlooking the sea front.
cafe, Margate, kent
The most thrilling part of my trip was visiting the Turner Contemporary gallery, named of course, after the artist, who frequently painted in Margate. The exterior was poorly designed, looking like a modern warehouse blocking a view of the sea but inside it was light and lovely. There was a stunning exhibion by Yinka Shonibari of Dutch batik wrapped books with the names of public figures printed in gold on the spine. A must-see.
turner contemporary, Yinka Shonebari

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Comments

  1. Magnolia Verandah

    May 14, 2016 at 9:01 am

    I love asparagus! But I also love your stories around the food especially in England – Ramsgate was a favourite of my parents for a day out. I have many black and white photos sitting on that beach building sand castles as a child.

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      May 15, 2016 at 11:48 am

      me too, it was just a shame with the vagueries of British weather that it wasn't quite ready.
      Kent has tons of history and great food.
      Thanks x

      Reply
    • Mr Hari Covert

      May 18, 2016 at 1:02 pm

      You were on my patch and never called me… I am gutted… Good post though so I forgive you!

      Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      May 19, 2016 at 1:51 pm

      OH no I didn't put two and two together. I would have LOVED to have come and seen you. Next time! x

      Reply
  2. Pasta Bites

    May 19, 2016 at 10:42 am

    Sounds like an odyssey to get to Kent! yet is a beautiful place. I managed to get to Whitstable for the first time on bank holiday monday and had a great day out, even if I didn't get to taste any asparagus (shame)

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers aka MsMarmiteLover

      May 19, 2016 at 1:53 pm

      It was dead easy to get back though…direct train Margate to St Pancras! I think I just messed up on the way there.x

      Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
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Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Mi Galette des Rois, made yesterday in 12th night. Minus Crown and king as I cannot find either. This one is made with Tonka bean. Plus homemade puff pastry (well worth the effort). According to ike delorenzo at The Atlantic:  The tonka bean, a flat, wrinkled legume from South America with an outsize flavor that the US government has declared illegal. Nonetheless, it proliferates on elite American menus. The tiniest shavings erupt in a Broceliande of transporting, mystical aromas.
The taste of the tonka bean is linked strongly to its scent. "Scents," I should say, as the tonka bean has many at once. I register the aromas of vanilla, cherry, almond, and something spicy—a bit like cinnamon. When served cold—say, in tonka bean ice cream—the taste is like a vanilla caramel with dark honey. When warm, perhaps shaved over scallops, it moves toward spiced vanilla. Additionally, the aroma of the tonka bean shavings (it's almost always shaved) is so affecting that it seems like an actual taste in the way that opium, which has no taste in the traditional sense, "tastes" like its rich, flowery smoke.  Here is the recipe: 

Tonka bean galette des rois

Serves 8
Ingredients
* 140 g caster sugar
* 125 g salted butter, softened
* 100 g ground almonds
* 2 eggs, medium
* 1 tonka bean, grated
* 2 packs ready made butter puff pastry on a roll
* 1 yolk for brushing the pastry
Instructions
* Preheat your oven to 200c.

* Blend the butter with the sugar then add the almonds. Make sure it’s well mixed. Add in the 2 eggs one at a time, then add the tonka bean.

* If using a block: divide the puff pastry into two and roll out to 5mm thick. 
* Make two circles about 15 cm’s each in diameter. Lay one circle on a silicone mat/parchment paper on a baking tray and fill with the almond cream leaving a 3 cm border around the edge. 
* Paint the border with the egg yolk. Then lay the other circle on top, sealing the edges with a fork. 
* You could then carve designs into the top. Make a little slit in the middle to let steam escape then brush the top with the egg yolk
Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. T Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. This is a vegan version. ***

Ingredients:
- 400 g box of soft tofu not silken
- 5 soaked dried shiitake mushrooms, diced, keep water
- 1 red bell pepper, finely sliced
- 400 g fresh shiitake mushroom, sliced thinly
- 400 ml vegetable stock
- 1 thumb fresh ginger, minced
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 4 tbsps groundnut or vegetable oil
- 3 tbsp fermented bean paste
- 1 or 2 small red chillies, minced or a spoonful of Chinese chilli paste
- 1 tsp heaped sichuan peppercorns, finely ground
- 2 tbsps soy or tamari sauce
- 2 tbsp cornflour in 3 tbsps water, mixed into a slurry
- 4 spring onions, finely sliced
- large pinch fresh coriander leaves

Prepare the tofu by cutting it into one inch cubes and soaking it in hot but not boiling salted water. Drain after 15 minutes.
Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms, covering them in boiling water. Leave until soft, then dice the mushrooms. Retain the mushroom soaking water and add to the vegetable stock water.
Prepare the other ingredients so they are ready to stir-fry: red bell pepper, fresh mushrooms, ginger, garlic.

Using a wok or deep frying pan, add the oil and heat to frying temperature. Add the bell peppers,fry for a couple of minutes, then add fermented bean paste, chilli paste or chillies, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sichuan pepper.
Add the mushroom/vegetable broth and simmer on high for a couple of minutes.
Carefully add the cubes of tofu, taking care not to break them too much.
Add the cornflour slurry, stirring for a couple of minutes.
Serve with rice or noodles, garnishing with spring onions or chives and or coriander leaves.  #veganuary #mapotofu #sichuanfood #tofu  #shitakemushrooms #supperclub #londonchef #msmarmitelover #ham&highcolumn #eatplants #lockdown3 #selfisolation #coronaloner #cooking #recipe #cookingfromscratch
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Another thing the Japanese are brilliant at is san Another thing the Japanese are brilliant at is sandwiches. They use the softest, whitest, fluffiest bread. Their mayonnaise kewpie is gorgeous I don’t know why. Perhaps someone here can explain? Here I’ve used sourdough as it’s what I have; kosho which is a Yuzu citrus and green chilli condiment and the aforesaid kewpie Mayo to make an egg 🥚 sandwich.  I’m not a big egg fan but I suddenly had the urge. Also I’ve noticed when I eat eggs it satiates my hunger for hours. All that protein.  #sandwich #sandwiches #japanesesandwich #kewpiemayo #kosho #eggsandwich #sourdough #supperclub #cookingforone #solo #londonlife #lockdownlondon #recipe #snack #sundaysnack #sando
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Writing about tofu which I think has an unfair rep Writing about tofu which I think has an unfair reputation in this country. It’s so flexible and is a brilliant flavour sponge. Here I’m preparing my soft tofu for a Japanese dish: agedashi tofu. I first pressed it in a clean tea towel with a weight on top to firm it up a bit but not too much. Then I dusted it with cornflour and I will deep fry it in oil. Then I will serve it in a broth of dashi/mirin and tamari sauce, sprinkled with finely chopped spring onions and togarashi pepper from Japan. I would usually add some finely mandolined daikon radish but couldn’t find any. It’s a subtle dish of texture: soft yet crispy. After Christmas I’m desperate for light zingy fresh flavoured food. #supperclub #tofu #vegan #vegetarian #agedashitofu #newyearsday #cookingagain #lunch #asian #japanesefood
Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holdi Happy new year from my bubble to yours! Keep holding on...
#happynewyear #happynewyear2021 #supperclub #hootenanny
Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg includi Some of my Christmas food 🥘 lots of veg including mashed swede with cheese and butter. I put pomegranate seeds with my sprouts, and cooked my carrots in marmalade ( worked v well), the mushroom wreath fell apart as I was transferring it to a tray 😤, roast potatoes and parsnips, then a cheese spread with fruit nuts, quince cheese (homemade), Chocs @lindtuk 😍 @guylian_uk @disaronno_official @baileysofficial @taylorsportwine and Brazil nuts. Plus a pavlova wreath ready to be topped with whipped cream and persimmons. 
#christmasdinner #vegetarianchristmas #vegetarianchristmasdinner #supperclub #londonchristmas #liqueurs #christmasspread #grazing #cheeseboard #port #pavlova
Christmas has started! Home-cured smoked beetroot Christmas has started!  Home-cured smoked beetroot and aquavit salmon with homemade blinis, creme fraiche, dill, Prosecco.  The fire is lit 🔥, the tree is up, 🎄the presents 🎁 are wrapped, we have a #brexit deal- a Christmas miracle. Peace and harmony. #christmas #christmasinengland #homemade #christmaseve #blinis #smokedsalmon #prosecco🍾 #londonchristmas
Done some doorscaping, the latest trend in Christm Done some doorscaping, the latest trend in Christmas decorating. It might also cheer up passersby. #christmas #christmasdecor #doorscaping #doorsofinstagram #londonchristmas #doorwreath #doordecor #doorsoftheworld #doordecoration #exteriors #london #supperclub #covidchristmas
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Still working on my glass cupboard. I’ve hung up Still working on my glass cupboard. I’ve hung up all my wine bottle openers and cork screws. My favourite is the zigzag bottom left. If you find them at a flea market in France, if you are lucky you may get it for around 35 euros.  #supperclub #londonflat #londoninteriors #corkscrews #frenchkitchenalia #zigzag #tirebouchon #oakcupboard #diy #diyprojects
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