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Food and cookery books for Christmas 2022

December 4, 2022 Leave a Comment Filed Under: Books, Christmas, Christmas Gifts, Food, Politics

Notes from a Small Kitchen Island by Debora Robertson (Michael Joseph)

Debora was a successful ghost writer, writing recipes and books for some of the best known TV chefs. In the last few years she has emerged under her own name, writing a popular column for the Telegraph. This is her first cookbook written in her Stoke Newington kitchen, but towards the end of the book, precipitating her move during lockdown to France, there are some Séte influenced dishes. It’s very readable with practical recipes developed over years of experience with chapters entitled ‘How to throw a party without losing your mind’ and ‘How to survive having people to stay’. She’s no glamour-puss influencer, but a warm and sure presence who knows her stuff.

West Winds: recipes, history and tales from Jamaica by Riaz Phillips (DK)

It’s refreshing to have a Jamaican cook from Britain write about Caribbean food culture. Phillips, as well as providing typical recipes, puts Jamaican food in context: slave food, created from ‘ground provisions’, that is, what slaves could grow on their tiny hard-scrabble allotments to approximate their African pre-slavery diet, (for instance replacing the African Yam with American sweet potatoes), has its own history. Vegan food has long been espoused by Rastafarians. Classic West Indian fave foods such as Hardo bread, rice and peas, jerk chicken and sailfish and ackee are here as well as ingredients such as plantain, Scotch bonnet, figs (the Caribbean name for bananas of which there are dozens of varieties), callaloo and Irish moss.

Ghetto Gastro presents Black Power Kitchen by Jon Tray, Pierre Serrao, Lester Walker (Artisan)

The design of this book is shoutier, more in-your-face than West Winds with a collage of artwork, food photographs, graffiti and essays by academics. It’s also physically large, more coffee-table statement than something you can actually use in the kitchen. Ghetto Gastro is a collective of three male African-American chefs and one female writer Osayi Endolyn (who isn’t credited on the cover)who I have a sneaking feeling did most of the work.

You can tell the white food media is thrilled to death to have this cookery book, nay, manifesto, to review. The authors freely admit it’s not really a cookbook or even something you read. It’s designed to be visually inspiring to millennials. There is a section on ‘nutcrackers’, Bronx ‘entrepreneurs’ who sell home-made mixed cocktails on the street from a cooler, a resourceful response to the fact that Black people struggle to get liquor licenses to run legit businesses. Jerk is explained from a historical and political point of view: the Jamaican Maroons who escaped the British and fled to the Blue Mountains. They slow-cooked food wrapped in leaves on the ground on smokeless fires so that the masters wouldn’t find them. Circumstances create dishes.

The recipe introductions are written like little raps; ‘this is how we do’ or ‘They fill the roti, then hit it with tamarind and Peppa sauce if you nasty’. While the writing pleads for authenticity and realness reflecting how people eat, the plating, photography and recipes, for instance a scoop of coconut ice balanced on a huge rock on top of a coconut shell, seem cheffy, impractical, artistic and conceptual with fancy ingredients such as Bronte pistachios. I appreciated that most of the recipes were vegetarian or vegan, however.

You can tell it’s their first book. They want to say everything straight away. It’s angry, provocative and interesting.

Red sauce, Brown sauce by Felicity Cloake (Harper Collins)

Guardian stalwart Felicity is probably one of our finest young food writers. I use her recipes, knowing that they are generally infallible. This book is a follow-up to her cycling odyssey through France ‘One more croissant for the road’. This time she cycles around all four nations of the UK sustained by one of our most eminent meals – breakfast. The title refers to a geographical divider between north and south. In the south we eat ketchup (arguably we are more Americanised) and in the north, brown sauce. Felicity provides recipes for both sauces. She visits Exeter to find out about butter, Wales to eat cockles and laverbread, the Baked Bean Museum in someone’s living room in Port Talbot, Marmite in the Midlands, eats soda farls in Belfast, porridge at the world championships in Carrbridge, marmalade in Dundee, Weetabix in Peterborough and jam in Tiptree, Essex. Beautifully written and researched.

Nachos for Dinner by Dan Whalen (Workman)

A fun cookbook with ideas for ‘sheet pan meals’, this would be a great gift for a student or non-cook. I’ve served nachos (at its most basic: tortilla crisps, melted cheese, salsa, slung in the oven) to a rapturous reception by sophisticated foodie friends. Whalen analyses the classic Mexican nacho dish, then spins out the concept to other foods such as Banh-mi nachos, Polish pierogi nachos, lasagn’chos, chicken tikka masala nachos, falafel nachos and even, apple pie nachos for dessert.

The Magic of Tinned Fish by Chris McDade (Artisan)

I love a well-stocked larder of which fish in tins forms an essential part. Here chef McDade promises to elevate your cooking with canned anchovies, sardines, tuna and more. Spanish or Portuguese tinned fish is of a superior quality, worth the extra price and comes in attractively designed tins. I recently found large Ortiz jars of tuna fish in olive oil at Lidl for a fiver. I’ve also been known to give a selection of tinned fish to my daughter as a Christmas present. This cookbook offers ideas for snacks stacked on cocktail sticks such as The Gilda, consisting of a guindilla pepper, a manzanilla olive and a coil of anchovy as well smoked trout salad, sea urchin pasta, mussel sandwiches, clam bruschetta. In fact any tinned fish on toast is an excellent meal.

Mezcla by Ixta Belfrage (Ebury Press)

I’m always thrilled when I come across a cookbook with genuinely new ideas. Ixta trained under Ottolenghi and shares his relaxed approach to food, a series of small plates but this time with ingredients from Italy, Brazil and Mexico (her mother is Brazilian, and she’s spent part of her childhood in Italy and Mexico). She’ll throw salads together with crumpet croutons, tahini ginger sauce, chillis and tomatoes, make cornbread but with brown butter and curry, cook thin omelettes which she will roll and chop into ‘noodles’. Her food is messy, expressive, creative, and colourful.

The Modern Cheeseboard by Morgan McGlynn (White Lion Publishing)

This is not so much a cookbook but a ‘pairing’ manual: how to present a fantastic and original cheeseboard. Morgan is a local Norf London girl with a cheese shop in Muswell Hill and frequent guest on Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch. She explains how to store, cut and serve cheese from a classic cheeseboard to more unusual combinations such as pairing with edible flowers, chocolate (go blue) or whisky.

13 foods that shape our world by Alex Renton (BBC)

Alex Renton wrote about his slave-owning ancestors in the Caribbean in the searingly honest ‘Blood Legacy’, and now authors the first official book for BBC Radio 4’s The Food Programme. Each chapter delves into 13 staple foods, such as oil, cocoa, bread, soy, sugar, rice, salt and tomatoes, all part of the global diet. Bread is possibly the oldest food, with remains found in Jordan almost 15,000 years ago and the cause of political turmoil, even revolutions, throughout history. Fat is the most misunderstood ingredient in terms of health, eating fat doesn’t make you fat, but is key for a pleasurable ‘mouth feel’. Renton is less convincing on salt, having interviewed notorious anti-salt campaigner Professor Graham MacGregor, but does agree that it is better to adequately salt during cooking than at the table. This book is informative about the history, botanics and politics of our diet and entertainingly written, not dry at all.

Ottolenghi Test Kitchen: Extra Good Things (Ebury)

This is the second book in the series OTK. The first book, ‘Shelf’, was a lock-down paen to the pantry, whereas Extra Good Things is less focussed, exploring the flavour bombs that lift a recipe. It’s about how to ‘ottolenghify’ a dish, that is, to celebrate vegetables, to add a twist, to add acidity or crunch or something pickled, to add a counterpoint via herbs, spice or condiments. There are recipes for tonnato sauce but this time on vegetables rather than veal; how to make home-made rose harissa, or feta cream or caramel and clementine dressing. There are a zillion ideas, which will inspire the keen cook.

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
Yesterday I visited Noto in Sicily. It’s famous Yesterday I visited Noto in Sicily. It’s famous for baroque architecture. The churches, shops and streets are ready for Christmas, with nativity scenes, lights and wrapped presents. The light is beautiful, softly golden, as it is in all of these villages under the eaves of Mount Etna, puffing innocently in the background. Sicily has so much to discover. Of course I had an orange, olive and fennel salad. #citrus #travel #sicily #noto
Went to see the orange groves of @la_.deliziosa_ i Went to see the orange groves of @la_.deliziosa_ in Sicily, under the eaves of mount Etna which is glowing orange with streams of lava making their way down the snowy verges. The air smells of charcoal, smoke and occasionally sulphur. This grove is seven years old. The oranges 🍊 have stretch marks like the swollen belly of a pregnant woman. They will be ready to pick in two weeks. #citrusseason #sicily
The most brilliant focaccia from the Puglia region The most brilliant focaccia from the Puglia region, hot, oily, crispy, with sweet cherry 🍒 tomatoes, green olives and plenty of salt- which we ate in the fields with the farmers. Food always tastes better when eaten outside. @commissioneuvadatavola
More bits done to my dining room. Painting the bar More bits done to my dining room. Painting the bare woodwork in @littlegreenepaintcompany, moving furniture around, building a spice cupboard. Tablecloth from @dunelmuk I’m off to Naples and Sicily today so it’s all a bit rushed. More tidying, painting organising on my return. Hey interiors people, paint companies, homeware and tableware companies- I’m up for collabs! #tablescape #crockery #kitchens #diningrooms #pantry #reclaimedwindows #spicecupboards #scallops #stripes #rawplaster #london
I went to an amazing @yenirakiglobal lunch today @ I went to an amazing @yenirakiglobal lunch today @ruyalondon a gorgeous Turkish restaurant just off Park lLne. It was hosted by the lovely drink expert @douglasblyde (Evening Standard drinks columnist). It was nice to see some old faces from the blogging world. I loved the ‘Istanbul- bull’ cocktail made from elderflower ginger beer and Rami with a sliver of cucumber. We had a demonstration on how to make khachapuri Turkish style. In turkey they say ‘let’s go for a raki’ meaning shots of raki with mezze. The sea bass with a pistachio crust was a great match as was the smoked salmon with pink peppercorns. Raki goes great with fish. I also loved the ‘lonely’ dip ‘rafik’ which is something you order when you are lonely- then everybody joins you.  Raki is sometimes referred to as ‘lions milk’ because it goes white when you add water and it puts hairs on your chest. Raki is made from wild fennel and grape way de vie. Fennel, like liquorice, is 13  times sweeter than sugar. First week of December is #worldrakiday #raki #turkey #turkishfood
Christmas present suggestions for foodies: a month Christmas present suggestions for foodies: a monthly subscription to @thetinnedfishmarket I love the packaging, it’s so useful to have in the pantry for last minute meals. The top three tins are from the November selection: tuna, sardines and mackerel. The bottom 3 tins are anchovies, stuffed calamari and smoked oysters. I recently used their tinned smoked tuna in a recipe- it’s a revelation. I often buy my daughter tinned fish for birthday or Christmas #christmasgiftsideas #subscriptions #christmasforfoodies #tinnedfish #foodpackaging
Berenjenas de la abuela con miel. This is my Sagit Berenjenas de la abuela con miel. This is my Sagittarian recipe for @holidaygoddessguide sag loves fiery hot fried food, purple is Jupiter’s colour, and Spain a sag country. This tapas recipe is a dead cert for the archer. Topped with Venusian honey… #astrology #planetarydiet #recipes #tapas
I made Mas Huni, a Maldivian breakfast dish, using I made Mas Huni, a Maldivian breakfast dish, using smoked tuna from @thetinnedfishmarket I like a savoury breakfast and this hits the spot. I have a post up on the blog tomorrow by Mary Wedgewood who has just spent a year teaching in the Maldives- a very different experience from the sun, sand and luxury you get in the resorts. #tinnedfish #maldives #mashuni
Last night I went to see @lacliquetheshow in a spi Last night I went to see @lacliquetheshow in a spiegeltent (a kind of wooden tent) in Leicester Square, London. A series of neo-circus acts, some rather saucy with a wonderful torch singer with top bants entertained us. A real Christmas treat- it’s only on for 8 weeks. Probably not for children although I recall my parents taking me and my younger brother and sister to see the original cast of the Rocky Horror Show in kings road. Us kids were gob smacked yet inspired.  @multitudemedia thank you  #cabaret #circus #christmastheatre #london
A quick butternut squash soup in the @vitamixuk wi A quick butternut squash soup in the @vitamixuk with Austrian pumpkin oil and pistachios as I’d run out of pumpkin seeds. Served in enamel mugs (I love enamel, it’s lightweight and unbreakable . The chips just give it more character. #soup #autumn #enamelware
I went to the most fabulous dinner tonight in this I went to the most fabulous dinner tonight in this old theatre near London Bridge, with actors playing the roles of famous French cheeses. The food was great, the company charming, the atmosphere, like being at the Kit Kat club in cabaret, and le fromage divine. #enjoyitsfromeurope #cheeseatheart #cheesesfromfrance #frenchloveaffair
Lebu or Bengali lemon in Whitechapel. These are so Lebu or Bengali lemon in Whitechapel. These are so floral. You just use the zest, there isn’t much juice or flesh. A pound each which is cheap. Just turn left out of Whitechapel station and most of the greengrocers have them. Do not confuse with lime. These are big and knobbly. #london #citrus #elizabethline #bengalifood
Incredibly cute single grilled sandwich maker made Incredibly cute single grilled sandwich maker made in Singapore @brunohotplateuk it comes in pink, lilac and red. It has multiple attachments for donuts, tarts, waffles, taiyaki fish waffles. Going to try it out tomorrow. Love the design and colours, it’s sturdiness- it’s metal. It’s sort of barbie industrial. #kaiwai #kitchengadgets #design #toasties #taiyaki #
Home grown poblano chillies. They didn’t reach t Home grown poblano chillies. They didn’t reach the size of one’s from Mexico, which are more like bell papers. But it’s virtually impossible to get fresh poblanos in the UK. It’s a shame as they are very mild, a more interesting flavour than bell peppers. They are wonderful stuffed, in soup or to make the Mexican national dish - poblanos with walnut sauce. #londongarden #londonmexicanfood
I’ve been doing the tube game, no cheating, no c I’ve been doing the tube game, no cheating, no conferring. This score means I’m officially a nerd according to @helenlewisposts I’ve always thought if I were kidnapped and held in solitary Terry Waite style, that this is how I’d pass my time, remembering every stop on the London Underground. They should do one for the paris metro. I lived in paris for 5 years so I wonder how I’d do with that. This is the link if you want to have a go: https://london.metro-memory.com
Russell Norman’s latest book Brutto @bru.tto all Russell Norman’s latest book Brutto @bru.tto all about florentine food and Tuscan recipes. Beautifully designed, great photos. Recipes include florence favourites such as panini con lampredotto ( tripe- not for me thanks), schiacciata, negronis. Can’t say I’m a fan of salt less Tuscan bread though ( introduced due to the salt tax) but Russell explains it’s never supposed to be eaten on its own but as a mop for highly flavoured sauce. There are a lot of neat recipes but also plenty of vegetarian ones. Want to try the sugar caramelised pecorino. The book has the Russell Norman trademark of an exposed and stitched spine. Lovely design as ever. One for the Christmas lists. Also thankyou to @eburybooks for their quick efficiency in sending me the book. I do review books: for my blog, for social media and also for newspapers. Yet I struggle to get hard copies of books- looking @murdochbooks_uk for instance. I’ve asked for @tessakiros and @missfoodwise latest books but impossible. Sometimes publishers say we can send an e version. NO! Books are physical objects: the paper, the typeface the feel are all important otherwise I’ll just read a website. Also writers get paid SO little the least publishers can do is send you an actual book. Do they expect us to buy the copies? I find they’ll often send some shitty little TV cook or minor celebrity book or my particular personal horror- wellness books- but not actually something you want to review. Rant over. Not the authors fault but the publishers. #cookbook #review #publishers
Ophelias first birthday party. I made a smash cake Ophelias first birthday party. I made a smash cake: something babies have now, which means they can ‘smash’ it or plunge their face in. It was sugar free, gluten free etc. but Ophelia was rather refined while picking at it. She’s a little lady. Lots of presents, food, cakes, babies, tears and tantrums ( the latter from mum and grandma) #granfluencer
Happy first birthday to my granddaughter Ophelia. Happy first birthday to my granddaughter Ophelia. It’s brilliant being a grandma, nostalgia for the time my daughter was a baby. Having children is so interesting. It’s hard but worth it. I’m making her a smash cake for her party tomorrow. Find out more then… #granfluencer #ophelia #firstbirthday  1) & 2) Ophelia aprés Dégas  3) munchkin pumpkin.  4) winsome  5) bit rheumy with her mum.  6) trying on grandma’s sliders.  7) she has a teeny light up electric toothbrush with which she can clean her 4 teeth.  8) dress from portobello £2 and she has the most brilliant laugh.  9) her eyes have now turned golden brown but here she still had the new born’s blue eyes.
As it’s #worldpastaday I’ve made a little reel As it’s #worldpastaday I’ve made a little reel of my few days in Firenze or Florence. It’s horrendously crowded but glowing with golden romance. At the central market you can eat the local focaccia sandwiches ‘schiacciata’ often with tripe ‘lampredotto’ (boak), or pasta with truffles. Elsewhere you can drink affogato , a small coffee with gelato, you can walk over the pontevecchio bridge, lined with glinting jewellery shops, you can visit the uffizi gallery, the painted ceilings, the cherubs, the somber and carnal portraits, you can crane your neck up to the green and cream marble stripes of the churches, you can visit the paper makers of hand marbled stationery, and at the end of the day you drink a perfect sunset negroni with aperitivo snacks then take the tram to your hotel and plan to visit again when it’s quieter. When is it quiet? January? October was rammed. #travelandfood #solotravel #florence #firenze #italy
Today 21st October is #worldrepairday. I’ve been Today 21st October is #worldrepairday. I’ve been attending a workshop @camden_fixing_factory to learn how to repair toasters, kettles, fans, irons etc. we get them from a local dump, fix them then give them to charity. Very few actually need repair: they are thrown away because they have limescale ( a real problem with London water) or are dirty or something minor.  First we do a visual inspection - what appears to be wrong with it? Then we do a connectivity test with two probes to see if there is a circuit. Then a Pat test to see if it passes. Then we plug it in: does it work? With a toaster does the press down, pop up mechanism work? Does it toast? Then we clean it thoroughly- vacuuming all crumbs and polishing so that it looks almost as good as new. This is part of a European movement called Right to Repair @r2reurope whereby fixing things not just dumping in landfill is encouraged- not just on a personal level but businesses and manufacturers too. It’s very satisfying being things back to life. Next week kettles! #righttorepairmovement #camden
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