New cooking: Dominic South at Visitor boat

‘Visitor boat’ is the sparsely named location, although it’s glorious, wedged into a community of houseboats, Tower Bridge, the iconic London landmark looming overhead. Young Dominic South is cooking in his friend’s boat, a converted coal barge. The gangway is so narrow his friends, set builders and ‘makers’ had to build the tables inside.
The pine and plywood tables and walls are plain and seaworthy but the service is sumptuous, begloved waiters and waitresses grating fresh truffles and serving exquisite sauces from tiny copper pans at your tableside. The floor tilts as the tide lowers; the food is light, pretty, almost feminine and resolutely modern.

Dominic has earnt his chops at Michelin star restaurants, Hibiscus, Nobu and Tom Aikens. Supper clubs have enabled talented young chefs to take a bow, present their own food, rather than inch their way up their hierarchy, crossing their fingers for angelic investors.

Visitor boat has other chefs taking a turn, one from Nobu soon while Dominic will return from Antigua where he is presently cooking, in December.