• Facebook
  • Instagram
  • Pinterest
  • Snapchat
  • Twitter
  • YouTube
  • Skip to primary navigation
  • Skip to main content
  • Skip to primary sidebar

MsMarmiteLover

  • Food
    • Recipes
    • Vegetarian
    • Vegan
  • Travel
    • France
    • Italy
    • Spain
    • UK
  • Wine
  • Gardens
  • Supperclubs/Events
  • About
    • Published Articles
    • Books
  • Shop
    • Cart

Katz’s, Kasha and Knishes

February 6, 2011 14 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

Potato knish with cheddar and mustard

For a while I lived in Los Angeles. I think I had some fanciful idea I’d end up as a movie director. I managed to stick it out for two years, before a series of frightening events; a dead body upstairs went undiscovered for a week, a freebasing building manager, a homicidal stalker entering my apartment in the middle of the night, having no car and going everywhere by bus, the throngs of cockroaches and scampering rats, got to me.  I slunk back to blighty with a trunk full of vintage thrift shop clothes and an aerobicised body. But there were some good times: my friend punk poet, Iris Berry and I used to visit Canters Deli after a night out. It was open every single day and all night. It never closed. I even, finding myself alone, went there on Christmas day. The middle aged waitresses were comfortingly maternal while at the same time, hard boiled. The list of celebrity visitors ranges from Judy Garland to Johnny Depp.
I always ordered the same thing:  “kasha and bows” and “knish with Muenster cheese”. Kasha is buckwheat while bows is farfalle, a butterfly or bow-tie shaped pasta. A basic knish is mashed potato enveloped by a thin shell of pastry. This food is Jewish, from Eastern Europe. It’s heavy stuff, designed to tether you down while a Siberian wind is blowing.
Two establishments in New York took me right back to those days: a visit to Katz’s Deli (catch phrase: “Send a salami to your boy in the army”) and Yonah Shimmel’s Knishes, a few blocks away. Katz’s was where Sally had her fake orgasm over a sandwich in ‘When Sally met Harry’. Yonah’s has been going for one hundred years and, like Katz’s, is a New York institution. Their knishes are freshly made downstairs and brought up on a dumb waiter.

 Fluffy potato

Yonah Shimmel’s
but it helps…
Katz’s Delicatessen, New York’s oldest deli, has a homely and sprawling dining room, the walls jumbled with photographs of celebrated visitors including presidents.  As you enter, two unnerving black bouncers, bottoms spreading cartoon style over their stools, crackle at you: “take a ticket, order your food, sit down, pay on the way out” so quickly I had to ask them to repeat it. Which they did with a surprising smile. 
This is a place where tables talk to each other. It’s been in the same family for three generations, the current Mr Katz was gladhanding the clientele, talking to everybody, going up and down the tables.
I ordered a bagel with lox and cream cheese with a side of sour and semi sour pickled cucumbers and pickled tomatoes. Mr Katz explains to me that the cured meats they have on the wall, they are not allowed to sell. “People have been curing meat for hundreds of years, but the New York health department say this is risky. I have to keep them refridgerated. Those on the wall are just for decoration. The health laws in New York are stricter than anywhere else.”
We talk of how New York has changed: “Around here, 2nd avenue, the lower East side, before, there were drug dealers, it was dangerous. Guiliani cleared it up. There is very little crime now.” 
 The friendly Mr Katz

 Sour and half sours. I like them sour.

3 Meat Platter 28.95 (Feeds 3 tourists or one regular customer)

Recent posts

Blueberry galette recipe

July 14, 2025

High protein recipes: roast tofu block

July 2, 2025

Sour cherry and rose ice cream recipe

June 28, 2025

Previous Post: « Front room flicks: Eat, Pray, Love,
Next Post: Cooking with Himalayan Pink Salt Blocks/Mixed Grill event »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. green drawers

    February 7, 2011 at 10:35 am

    mmmmm……. knishes. One of my favourite foods….. I more or less lived off them in the late 80's when I spent a year in NYC. The best ones I had were from the stand on the corner of 85th & 2nd. He was outraged and then faintly amused that as a English gentile I would only have them with ketchup; I'm afraid American mustard has never been my bag.

    My other fave Jewish food is chopped liver – Katz's was great, as was Zabar's. Here the best that I've had is from Selfridges food hall (bit poncy I know but I don't get to London often!). Can anyone out there let me know where to get it in West Dorset?!?!?!

    Reply
  2. The Curious Cat

    February 7, 2011 at 11:53 am

    Fun entry – I have never heard of this kind of food – you learn something every day! Love the look of the place too! xxx

    Reply
  3. Dom at Belleau Kitchen

    February 7, 2011 at 2:55 pm

    oh brings back so many memories… love the yiddisha food the best x

    Reply
  4. Gerry Snape

    February 7, 2011 at 3:16 pm

    love this post! Thankyou.

    Reply
  5. Lou

    February 7, 2011 at 9:29 pm

    Really liked this post- very nicely written and some lovely photos 🙂

    Reply
  6. maratanga

    February 8, 2011 at 11:14 am

    knishes sound amazing! next time im in NY… x

    Reply
  7. maratanga

    February 8, 2011 at 11:14 am

    knishes sound amazing! next time i'm in NYC…

    Reply
  8. Anonymous

    February 10, 2011 at 3:03 pm

    This post is not good for my weight loss challenge, or my travel budget…but ooooh so delicious looking.

    Reply
  9. Anonymous

    April 8, 2011 at 8:36 am

    i had a knish, with Muenster Cheese and gravy, about two weeks ago at Canters and thought of you, Kerstin… xoxo iris

    Reply
  10. theundergroundrestaurant

    April 8, 2011 at 8:49 am

    um yum. Those were the days weren't they Iris? When we were young and had midnight snacks in Canters and listened to Chuck E of Chuck E's in love fame talk about his terrible descent into heroin hell

    Reply
  11. Helen T

    April 27, 2014 at 3:12 pm

    Such happy NYC memories, although my allegiance belongs more to the Carnegie Deli than Katz's, guess it depends on where I find myself when in need of comfort food, knish shaped or otherwise.

    Reply
    • Kerstin Rodgers

      April 27, 2014 at 5:28 pm

      Must go back to New York soon….I really fancy a knish!

      Reply
  12. Sasha Bertold

    September 16, 2018 at 3:45 pm

    I want it Knish(es) in London! But where?
    I'm based near Hyde Park/Bayswater Road.
    Any Knish places nearby?

    Reply
    • msmarmitelover

      December 7, 2018 at 8:36 pm

      No idea in London!

      Reply

Leave a Reply Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Recipe Rating




Primary Sidebar

MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

This is my food and travel blog, with recipes, reviews and travel stories. I also stray into politics, feminism, gardening.

msmarmitelover

Just had this window built by @odgjoinery and stai Just had this window built by @odgjoinery and stained glass window to match the front door by @wstoneglass beautiful work. Thank you so much. #edwardianhouse #victorianhome #stainedglass #joinery #restoration #london #kilburn
Stuffed peppers: filled with soaked fine bulgur wh Stuffed peppers: filled with soaked fine bulgur wheat, hazelnuts, sherry soaked sultanas, preserved lemon, smoky paprika, garlic, dill, coriander leaves , mint, and ground seeds, cumin,pumpkin seeds baked in the oven for 45 minutes. Serve with yoghurt. Delish! #latesummer #recipe #vegetarian #vegan #middleeasternish
My book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is now My book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is now available on @ckbk which is like Spotify for cookbooks - check it out or buy a signed copy from my website #afternoonteaparty
Next door there are 2 damson trees in the grounds Next door there are 2 damson trees in the grounds of the council flats. The ground smelled like jam. I picked a few kilos, 3 kilos after sorting through. I put them, crushed, stones included, in a clean glass container, with 1.5 kilos of sugar and 2 litres of gin ( I may add another), I’ll leave them for 3/4 weeks then filter. Damson gin for Christmas.
Fig, chocolate and chestnut tart- recipe in my boo Fig, chocolate and chestnut tart- recipe in my book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party. This is rather adult, using bitter dark chocolate ganache, chestnut flour and figs from my garden. #figrecipes #chocolate #baking
Went for an evening of Turkish music and entertain Went for an evening of Turkish music and entertainment @kibele.london Fantastic margarita cocktails, great food, generous portions and wonderful entertainment. In the end we all got up and had a go at belly dancing, #turkishfood #london #londonnights
I’ve got Covid (day3) so not much food in the ho I’ve got Covid (day3) so not much food in the house. I found some floppy- going black- carrots in the salad drawer, so I peeled and resuscitated those. Chopped them into a saucepan with a couple of cubes of vegetable stock and a litre of hot water. Then I added a couple of tablespoons of smooth peanut butter, a clove of garlic, 1 tsp of ground cumin, half a preserved lemon. Just stuff I had around. Simmered till the carrots were soft then blended in the @vitamixuk I can honestly say the vitamix is my most regularly used bit of kitchen kit. Anyway- hey presto- a high protein soup with fibre. I hope I test negative before I totally run out of food. #solo #covid #highprotein #soup
I wrote this long read for @scotnational about the I wrote this long read for @scotnational about the anti G8 camp in Stirling to protest against the G8 in Gleneagles. I partipated in the camp & protest along with my daughter @siennamarla playing in the samba band, part of the Pink Bloc. The camp was an incredible experience- the possibility of a different type of politics, of horizontal democracy. It was also a lot of fun. But our protest was tragically overshadowed by the 7/7 bombings in London. We wanted to create a new world but by the actions of a few disaffected British Muslim terrorists our positive movement for change was drowned out by hideous violence against normal ordinary people. Here is my account. 20 years anniversary #7/7 #londonbombings #scotland #antig8 #protest #gleneagles
Cheap stuff. Since the pandemic money has been tig Cheap stuff. Since the pandemic money has been tight. I shop at Lidl and aldi for food, Vinted, Portobello and Primark for clothes. The first pic is gazpacho with a banderilla from Lidl. They often have Spanish weeks and other nationality foods at a bargain price. I love those huge cartons of gazpacho- I glug it down like juice, especially in the heat. The banderillas are sold by the jar. Second pic is me in a primark vest, cardi, with an Anthropologie sale belt and old denim shorts from 10 years ago. Sorry about the mess behind, I sold a piece of furniture, a desk I found on the street, painted enamel green with ‘bamboo’brass handles which I sold on eBay for £225 #needsmust #thrift
My tea book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is My tea book Msmarmitelover’s secret tea party is now out on the cookbook app @ckbk it’s now out of print but you can still buy some print copies via me or Amazon. However you can see all the recipes ( like my sour cherry icecream which I served last week) on this site which is like a Spotify for cooks. Arguably afternoon tea is a meal which the English do better than any other country. #cookbooks #afternoontea #supperclubs
Saturdays midsummer supperclub was mostly a bbq on Saturdays midsummer supperclub was mostly a bbq on the @biggreenegguk I divided the meal into fragrance families: vegetal, fougere (fern), green notes, fresh: asparagus, garden artichokes on the bbq, dolmades made from my garden vine leaves. Then citrus fragrances with yuzu, 🍊 🍋 bergamot glaze, salmon, smoked tofu steaks, vegan smoked salmon carrot. Next spice which in perfume is oriental spices: bbq mini aubergines with paprika seed oil, home ground garam masala, a tahini caper dressing. Then wood and resinous fragrances using rosemary oil brushed bbq mini peppers, pine syrup on labneh, mushrooms a la grecque with juniper, finally the floral family of fragrance with sour cherry and rose icecream, lavender shortbread  hearts and orange flower water meringue kisses. It was a lively warm evening- children were welcome. There was a bonfire, lots of wine and laughter. I buy welding gloves £12 from Amazon  to use with the bbq. I also use @pomoragoodfood oils #london
With my home grown artichokes, grown from seed for With my home grown artichokes, grown from seed for tonight’s supperclub.
Sour cherries from the garden for my midsummer sup Sour cherries from the garden for my midsummer supperclub in the garden this Saturday 21st June. Tickets available, link in bio. Also at this link: https://substack.com/redirect/5a700a44-49c1-4e6d-834f-8d4851f98f45?j=eyJ1IjoiMWUzYm4ifQ.njFJL9K8WpzSqVZ5HFSvq84gnJeUD7reFZV9LrDwYtI #midsummernightsdream #supperclub #og #sourcherry
Can’t wait to delve into this by one of my favou Can’t wait to delve into this by one of my favourite food writers @kitchenbee it’s got everything: kitchenalia, divorce and food. Did you know that what we call heartache is actually stomach ache? It’s now recognised that rejection actually causes physical as well as psychological pain. A study shows that pain relief medications such as paracetamol can alleviate heartache. Some of our emotional pain is autonomic: it’s referred to as polyvagal theory. #heartbreak #foodwriting #lovehurts #takotsubo #dopaminewithdrawal
Midsummer supper club 21st June. The theme is frag Midsummer supper club 21st June. The theme is fragrance and scent. Tickets are £45  and you can bring your own drink. Starts 7.30pm and the nearest tube is Kilburn on the jubilee. Parking is free outside. Exact address given on booking. https://msmarmitelover.com/product/midsummer-supper-club-2025-scent-and-fragrance #london #supperclub
Oil portraits of me painted at Burning Van festiva Oil portraits of me painted at Burning Van festival by artists @cristina_vercesi (left) and YouTube sensation and Royal Portrait gallery exhibiter @alex_tzavaras. It was an utter privilege to sit for these wonderful artists- a real highlight. I’m taking them home and framing them. It was easy to sit still for 90 minutes with the amazing DJ set @leonidas_lovetoparty More deets later. #portraiture #festivals #oilpainting
Went with influencers to @standrewslakes in Kent w Went with influencers to @standrewslakes in Kent with @ourfinland @lakelandfinland @pcagency to experience Finnish food such as Karelian pies with egg butter, cinnamon buns, blueberry pies, and pea soup which they have with mustard and sour cream. We did zip lining, kayaking, saunas, whipped ourselves with birch sticks, ate in a gorgeous wooden bbq shed @arctic_cabins at the end of all this activity we were all tired but happy. @miramakeup @holidaywiththeheathers @amie_jane__ @onehungryasian @iamtimchung @travellingtuesdays @helimendetravels @charlotteemilyprice #presstrip
@camille.osullivan @camilleosullivanpics and @grah @camille.osullivan @camilleosullivanpics and @grahnort @wiltonsmusichall god this woman is talented. She did a solo show of The Rape of Lucrece. Her voice! #theatre #shakespeare #london
My latest article on Hungarian cuisine, a unique m My latest article on Hungarian cuisine, a unique meeting of east and west, for @ckbk It's a blend of Ottoman, Eastern and middle European, Austro-Hungarian empire and cowboy food. #food&travel #foodanthropology #hungary
Made Fermented Cucumber dill pickles from @nickvad Made Fermented Cucumber dill pickles from @nickvadasz book The Pickle Jar. At @katzsdeli in New York they sell half sours and full sours. I reckon these are 3/4 sour. The white mould is fine btw. These are delicious #pickleperson #fermentation #guthealthy
Follow on Instagram

Archives

Copyright © 2025 msmarmitelover