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The conversational

August 4, 2009 6 Comments Filed Under: Uncategorized

Neil Boorman on the right.
The conversational ‘menu’
Michelle on the left
Thought provoking cards on the subject of luxury

I love talking but would I like an evening of ‘guided’ conversation? This is the aim of Michelle Newell, a young Australian woman who has started The Conversational, a monthly event in Soho.

The theme of the night that I attended was ‘Luxury’, particularly pertinent in today’s recession. We were asked to write on a little card something we desire that we would consider a luxury. Answers were varied from ‘an endless supply of cashmere’, ‘a private library with a view of the Welsh coastline’ to ‘a husband‘ (er, that was me).
The author Neil Boorman who wrote ‘Bonfire of the Brands’ attended, giving a little talk on why he burned all of his luxury branded goods in Trafalgar Square.
He described his addiction to brands, how a purchase made him feel good “little confidence pills”, but this was a ‘high’ that didn’t last.

We asked him “How do you shop now?”

“No Prada, that’s for sure, just simple generic goods. Vintage, although of course that has it’s own chic, it’s own ‘brand'”

“But what about quality? Don’t good brands give you goods that last?”

“That’s a myth, luxury brands are often made in the same Asian factory as Primark for instance. ‘British’ brands like Burberry aren’t made in Britain. I once spent a fortune on some fashionable flip flops. After two weeks they broke. I took them back, they were replaced. After two more weeks, the new pair broke, again they were replaced. This happened again. In the end the shop staff said to me ‘well they aren’t really for wearing’. Brands form identity. If I wanted to feel confident for a business meeting I’d wear Christian Dior. I had different brands for different situations.”

I think of Cath Kidston. Her designs are a nod towards the nostalgia of the 1950s housewife. In an era of ‘juggling’ and ‘having it all’ working women love the fantasy of a simple life in which all you had to do is keep yourself nice with a cocktail ready for hubby when he gets in from work. Cath Kidston plays on all of that ‘surrendered wife’ stuff, which is why it is so successful. Again sites like Etsy, which sells home-made goods by individuals, is an example of this backlash against branding. (In Neil’s book, he points out that ‘branding’ has an older meaning, something that you did to slaves and animals).

Neil again: “My mother made her own clothes. You didn’t need to rely on brands, people had the confidence to throw a look together. We need to return to craftmanship”

I ask Neil: “To what extent is it a class thing? The working class tend to ape upper class behaviour, as if by buying the same brand you will become acceptable in that class. That’s why chavs buy Burberry”

Neil: “Absolutely. In London smokers tend to buy American brands of cigarettes like Marlborough. If someone in London buys Benson & Hedges you think, do you live on a council estate? Are you from up North? I come from working class background in the Thatcherite era. All the pikey kids had the best stuff: the Star Wars lunchbox, the Pringle sweaters…”

“It’s a vicious circle: you spend more time at work to earn more to buy brands. Time is not a luxury, it’s a neccessity because it’s finite. Brands are the consolation prize for working.”

Somebody says “there is no replacement for glamour though..”

Neil interrupts “Glamour is a cold, lonely place to be…look at Victoria Beckham, she never smiles, her skin is too tight.”

I ask: “So warmth is the opposite of glamour?”

This is a subject worth thinking about. And that’s the aim of The Conversational, to inspire, forge new pathways of thinking…

Next to me a man sums up class in a nutshell:

“My mum’s butcher said if a woman bought streaky bacon, he called her ‘love’. If she bought ‘back’ bacon, he called her Madam”

I wonder about class, branding and food.
Neil adds:

“The whole Fairtrade Organic trend is a middle class guilt trip. Being green is a status symbol. We don’t have the luxury to grown our own food.”

Epicurus, a philosopher who lived in 341 BC, who has become synonymous with excess, luxury, indulgence, actually recommended escaping the idea of status with a frugal ‘self-sufficiency’ life style.
The roots of the word luxury are discussed here. From the 13th to the 17th century luxury was a perjorative term. It changed when monarchical courts became public and everybody aspired to flat plates and salt.

“We all live in a civilisation of kings now. We don’t eat in season, we are all fat” said Neil.

Another question:“Who would break the law to achieve their luxury?” A few hands up.
Andy Warhol once said “Nobody can buy a better coca cola” Modern brands can mean either democracy or homogenisation depending on your point of view. I once met a Coca cola executive who explained that the company aims to provide coke at affordable prices in every country of the world.
Then ensues a discussion on how Mexican coke is better for it uses real sugar cane.
Afterwards I ask Michelle why she set this up:
“I missed the sort of conversations you have when you are a student where you exchange ideas not just talk about mundane everyday things.
It’s a salon des idées, but also an opportunity to come together and talk about meaningful things”
I say that it’s very un-British. One of the things I liked about living in France is their lack of embarrassment in talking about philosophy and politics. British people are funnier, but any sort of intellectualism is frowned upon here.

“It’s very un-Australian too” says Michelle “But I believe the time is right for this kind of thing, anything that promotes community spirit, like your underground restaurant”

Free: the talks will take place monthly at 23 Romilly Street in Soho. To attend contact Michelle for these stimulating evenings at www.theconversational.co.uk

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Comments

  1. Ben Emlyn-Jones

    August 4, 2009 at 5:17 pm

    I'd like to go to this. It sounds like a kind of mini-Oxford Union. I could have contributed to this particular discussion too. Using organic and Fairtrade is actually more than just an excersise in conscience salving; it really is worthwhile doing it for serious practical reasons. It can have a genuine effect that can counter the factory-farmed food industry. Although it's best to buy local organic, rather than the cabbage shipped in from Kenya to the Tescos organic shelf. I'm not a carbon-retentive, but I still think, for your own benefit, it's best to eat something as soon as possible after its death simply because organic doesn't keep. 12 hours for a cucumber in a cargo ship's hold as it crosses the Gulf of Guinea can knock 50% off its nutrient levels.

    Reply
  2. Ben Emlyn-Jones

    August 4, 2009 at 5:21 pm

    BTW: Sorry I've been a bit quiet lately. I've had the dreaded Swine Flu!… Yes, I am still alive. This comment is not channelled by a medium.

    Reply
  3. green drawers

    August 4, 2009 at 5:47 pm

    Like Ben, I would also argue against the organic / fair-trade thing being a guilt trip. I just prefer to know where my food comes from, and in the case of meat, that it has been fed without taking too much out of the human foodchain (ie: grass fed as opposed to grain fed or worse, fed bits of its relatives – thanks Maggie T). If we all decided to spend on food what it is really worth, we'd be a healthier nation, eating less, especially meat. Surely a good thing. Fair-trade has received a bad rap recently, and I can understand why – fairness is something we should ALL be entitled to – a bit like charity beginning at home I suppose. Personally, I'd like to see the fair-trade tag extended to growers / animal rearers in this country too. Please don't be fooled into thinking that workers in the food / clothing industry in this country are all treated fairly. We still have sweat shops everywhere.

    Ooh, I got all a bit worked up there! I have to say, I think The Conversational sounds like a great night out, but possibly a little bit of preaching to the converted?? It certainly seems more fun than the other pop-up you reviewed today.

    your little green friend in the west, green drawers x

    Reply
  4. Ben Emlyn-Jones

    August 6, 2009 at 9:39 am

    It's true. Our own country is far from a paradise. It may seem that way to many foreigners who face much harsher conditions, but in fact it could be so much better. And our own destiny is linked to the fortunes of all humanity. Britain might be an island in geographical terms, but it's not in political and social terms. Some people speak of pulling up the drawbridge and letting the rest of the world rot, but even if they claim that this is an ethical position, it's just not practical.

    Reply
  5. Mister Trippy

    August 13, 2009 at 1:52 am

    In my experience Primark is great for underwear, much better and cheaper than the designer shit underwear you can find in places like T K Maxx. No wonder the middle class hates Primark so much. And Matalan can be good for unbranded jeans, the last pair I bought from them in one of their sales cost £1.50 – no doubt someone was exploited but then the entire capitalist system is based on exploitation.

    And if you wanna be green it makes more sense being vegetarian than eating 'organic meat'… All meat that isn't roadkill (and personally I don't go for that either) is a cruel luxury.

    Reply
  6. Kavey

    October 19, 2009 at 5:21 pm

    Oh these sounds fantastic!
    I'm very lucky in that I have many wonderfully interesting and intelligent friends with whom I can and do chat about all kinds of things, including some wonderful and thought-provoking subjects such as this example.
    I think I will look up the website, thank you!

    Reply

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MsMarmiteLover aka Kerstin Rodgers.

Chef, photographer, author, journalist, blogger. Pioneer of the supperclub movement.

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Kerstin Rodgers/MsMarmiteLover
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The taste of the tonka bean is linked strongly to its scent. "Scents," I should say, as the tonka bean has many at once. I register the aromas of vanilla, cherry, almond, and something spicy—a bit like cinnamon. When served cold—say, in tonka bean ice cream—the taste is like a vanilla caramel with dark honey. When warm, perhaps shaved over scallops, it moves toward spiced vanilla. Additionally, the aroma of the tonka bean shavings (it's almost always shaved) is so affecting that it seems like an actual taste in the way that opium, which has no taste in the traditional sense, "tastes" like its rich, flowery smoke.  Here is the recipe: 

Tonka bean galette des rois

Serves 8
Ingredients
* 140 g caster sugar
* 125 g salted butter, softened
* 100 g ground almonds
* 2 eggs, medium
* 1 tonka bean, grated
* 2 packs ready made butter puff pastry on a roll
* 1 yolk for brushing the pastry
Instructions
* Preheat your oven to 200c.

* Blend the butter with the sugar then add the almonds. Make sure it’s well mixed. Add in the 2 eggs one at a time, then add the tonka bean.

* If using a block: divide the puff pastry into two and roll out to 5mm thick. 
* Make two circles about 15 cm’s each in diameter. Lay one circle on a silicone mat/parchment paper on a baking tray and fill with the almond cream leaving a 3 cm border around the edge. 
* Paint the border with the egg yolk. Then lay the other circle on top, sealing the edges with a fork. 
* You could then carve designs into the top. Make a little slit in the middle to let steam escape then brush the top with the egg yolk
Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. T Mapo tofu is probably my favourite Sichuan dish. This is a vegan version. ***

Ingredients:
- 400 g box of soft tofu not silken
- 5 soaked dried shiitake mushrooms, diced, keep water
- 1 red bell pepper, finely sliced
- 400 g fresh shiitake mushroom, sliced thinly
- 400 ml vegetable stock
- 1 thumb fresh ginger, minced
- 3 cloves garlic, crushed
- 4 tbsps groundnut or vegetable oil
- 3 tbsp fermented bean paste
- 1 or 2 small red chillies, minced or a spoonful of Chinese chilli paste
- 1 tsp heaped sichuan peppercorns, finely ground
- 2 tbsps soy or tamari sauce
- 2 tbsp cornflour in 3 tbsps water, mixed into a slurry
- 4 spring onions, finely sliced
- large pinch fresh coriander leaves

Prepare the tofu by cutting it into one inch cubes and soaking it in hot but not boiling salted water. Drain after 15 minutes.
Soak the dried shiitake mushrooms, covering them in boiling water. Leave until soft, then dice the mushrooms. Retain the mushroom soaking water and add to the vegetable stock water.
Prepare the other ingredients so they are ready to stir-fry: red bell pepper, fresh mushrooms, ginger, garlic.

Using a wok or deep frying pan, add the oil and heat to frying temperature. Add the bell peppers,fry for a couple of minutes, then add fermented bean paste, chilli paste or chillies, ginger, garlic, soy sauce, sichuan pepper.
Add the mushroom/vegetable broth and simmer on high for a couple of minutes.
Carefully add the cubes of tofu, taking care not to break them too much.
Add the cornflour slurry, stirring for a couple of minutes.
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